Pics of your models, please!
Discussion
thebigmacmoomin said:
This was the base I used, an Altaya ex-magazine car from France. Had to fill in the tow eyes in the front & rear bumpers.
As you say, the Minichamps ones are way to expensive and the Solido ones are a good alternative. I already had this as a spare in my stock to use. The Solido ones have low quality wheels and I think have sunroofs, which I though the race cars didnt.
I drew the decals myself but don't sell them. I drew the other 3 myself aswell.
Good stuff. Have you ever tried using paint washes to bring out some of the detail/add depth to wheels and body seams etc?As you say, the Minichamps ones are way to expensive and the Solido ones are a good alternative. I already had this as a spare in my stock to use. The Solido ones have low quality wheels and I think have sunroofs, which I though the race cars didnt.
I drew the decals myself but don't sell them. I drew the other 3 myself aswell.
MC Bodge said:
Good stuff. Have you ever tried using paint washes to bring out some of the detail/add depth to wheels and body seams etc?
I've often thought of doing this - it's a common technique for aircraft but cars are usually left pristine. A missed opportunity for some extra realism in my view.Has anyone tried this? If so please post pics!
Stealthracer said:
MC Bodge said:
Good stuff. Have you ever tried using paint washes to bring out some of the detail/add depth to wheels and body seams etc?
I've often thought of doing this - it's a common technique for aircraft but cars are usually left pristine. A missed opportunity for some extra realism in my view.Has anyone tried this? If so please post pics!
Junkers F13. Made by Junkers own shop contemporaneously (made up word?) with the real all-metal aircraft. 100 years old. Photos can't ever convey the jaw-dropping the standard of manufacture; all metal, shaped and soldered corrugated sheet. Both delicately detailed AND a very strong, stiff but light structure. Just like the real ones! Can't imagine how heavy the blow must have been to crease the top of the cabin. Utterly fabulous.
Came in for new windows and hand-painted registration letters. Very difficult handing it back to it's owner to reunite with it's loose rudder!
gruffgriff said:
Junkers F13. Made by Junkers own shop contemporaneously (made up word?) with the real all-metal aircraft. 100 years old. Photos can't ever convey the jaw-dropping the standard of manufacture; all metal, shaped and soldered corrugated sheet. Both delicately detailed AND a very strong, stiff but light structure. Just like the real ones! Can't imagine how heavy the blow must have been to crease the top of the cabin. Utterly fabulous.
Came in for new windows and hand-painted registration letters. Very difficult handing it back to it's owner to reunite with it's loose rudder!
gruffgriff said:
Junkers F13. Made by Junkers own shop contemporaneously (made up word?) with the real all-metal aircraft. 100 years old. Photos can't ever convey the jaw-dropping the standard of manufacture; all metal, shaped and soldered corrugated sheet. Both delicately detailed AND a very strong, stiff but light structure. Just like the real ones! Can't imagine how heavy the blow must have been to crease the top of the cabin. Utterly fabulous.
Came in for new windows and hand-painted registration letters. Very difficult handing it back to it's owner to reunite with it's loose rudder!
Wonderful. Are you a professional model maker? Does tinkering with it (I see a tin of gold paint) affect the value?Came in for new windows and hand-painted registration letters. Very difficult handing it back to it's owner to reunite with it's loose rudder!
Yertis said:
Fast and Spurious said:
So that's z-gauge in model railway terms. Do you mind me asking why you model so small? (I think it's remarkable and brilliant by the way.)Simpo Two said:
gruffgriff said:
Junkers F13.
Wonderful. Are you a professional model maker? Does tinkering with it (I see a tin of gold paint) affect the value?No qualms painting the reg on, there was ghosting of the original that I could size and replicate the font to. Being polished rather than plated metal (eg nickel over brass) removing would just make clean patches so sort of reversible, but would be forcing a deep, deep clean all over! The window 'glass' was a mix of very old, but probably not original acetate and not so old replacements that were equally clouded and distorted, so again an easy decision to replace entirely. I'm confident in this instance the work has neither added or devalued.
Been lucky to have had quite a few interesting planes pass through; the challenges and rewards are in repairing proper damage that has rendered a model worthless or unfit for display and sympathetically restoring it's finishes, where completely refinishing would wipe out it's history and heritage. Labours of love. A commercial hourly rate would see resto costs the same as real airframes!
Yertis said:
So that's z-gauge in model railway terms. Do you mind me asking why you model so small? (I think it's remarkable and brilliant by the way.)
Thank you. Just have always had an interest in small scales, model railways, and military models, so this meets my (peculiar!) needs.gruffgriff said:
Yertis said:
Good question! I didn't realise I was wondering the same internally. It's really quite amazing, please add my "How?" to any explanation!
In this case I bought a 1:72 model to scale down from:
Fast and Spurious said:
Thank you. I normally buy a larger scale model to scale down from (or get plans), and then do lots of CAD drawings to used to create etched brass parts. These are then built up like a kit, along with other materials such as plastic card to form the complete model.
In this case I bought a 1:72 model to scale down from:
That is fabulous. In this case I bought a 1:72 model to scale down from:
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