Blu-tac camo method
Discussion
I've got Humbrol Matt Cote (the new one in the clear bottle).
I've heard it's actually quite good but needs a lot of shaking/stirring just to make sure.
I will be testing it on a spare Jaguar that I have applying the same camo method on step by step.
Do you have a link or pic of the one you are talking about?
Say if this is taking liberties but.....I assume you are someone with a vast collection of liquids and potions for modelling. Would it be possible for you to do a review/comparison of flat/satin cote options on similar items or even on a single large model surface? ie. paint an old scrap fuselage or wing a standard matt RAF colour then mask and paint strips of different clear cotes.
Klear and matt coats are all new to me this time round. As a kid everything was painted in shiny enamels slapped on with a very hairy brush lol
I've heard it's actually quite good but needs a lot of shaking/stirring just to make sure.
I will be testing it on a spare Jaguar that I have applying the same camo method on step by step.
Do you have a link or pic of the one you are talking about?
Say if this is taking liberties but.....I assume you are someone with a vast collection of liquids and potions for modelling. Would it be possible for you to do a review/comparison of flat/satin cote options on similar items or even on a single large model surface? ie. paint an old scrap fuselage or wing a standard matt RAF colour then mask and paint strips of different clear cotes.
Klear and matt coats are all new to me this time round. As a kid everything was painted in shiny enamels slapped on with a very hairy brush lol
The_Jackal said:
I've got Humbrol Matt Cote (the new one in the clear bottle).
I've heard it's actually quite good but needs a lot of shaking/stirring just to make sure.
I will be testing it on a spare Jaguar that I have applying the same camo method on step by step.
Do you have a link or pic of the one you are talking about?
Say if this is taking liberties but.....I assume you are someone with a vast collection of liquids and potions for modelling. Would it be possible for you to do a review/comparison of flat/satin cote options on similar items or even on a single large model surface? ie. paint an old scrap fuselage or wing a standard matt RAF colour then mask and paint strips of different clear cotes.
Klear and matt coats are all new to me this time round. As a kid everything was painted in shiny enamels slapped on with a very hairy brush lol
That's a chuffing good idea actually. I'll do exactly that. I've got:I've heard it's actually quite good but needs a lot of shaking/stirring just to make sure.
I will be testing it on a spare Jaguar that I have applying the same camo method on step by step.
Do you have a link or pic of the one you are talking about?
Say if this is taking liberties but.....I assume you are someone with a vast collection of liquids and potions for modelling. Would it be possible for you to do a review/comparison of flat/satin cote options on similar items or even on a single large model surface? ie. paint an old scrap fuselage or wing a standard matt RAF colour then mask and paint strips of different clear cotes.
Klear and matt coats are all new to me this time round. As a kid everything was painted in shiny enamels slapped on with a very hairy brush lol
Johnsons Klear
Vallejo Gloss
Vallejo Satin
Revell Aqua Matt
Humbrol Acrylic Matt Aerosol
Xtracolour XDFF Matt
Revell matt (tin)
Humbrol Matt (tin)
Over RAF Green/Grey and some RLM Dark Greens.
Thanks for the idea
This is what the AFV man told me to get (I assume there is only one):
http://www.humbrol.com/paints/modellers-spray-pain...
Just been reading about Matt Varnish on a few forums, and apparently the problem is (or can be) caused by spraying in high humidity or cold conditions. This makes sense to a degree becasue I've had success with all the Matt varnishes I've tried, but not consistent results. They vary from great to hopeless. Maybe it is indeed the conditions. I might try varnishing in the kitchen rather than the garage in future.
I think the correct term is "bloom", I used to get this when painting 43rds in winter when sprayed out in the shed and then brought straight back indoors to a warm house - they'd get covered in condensation that would dry flat. Being gloss paint it could be polished out but that's not really viable on a flat coat - to keep the peace indoors is it possible to warm your outdoor spraying area enough to stop the bloom?
72twink said:
I think the correct term is "bloom", I used to get this when painting 43rds in winter when sprayed out in the shed and then brought straight back indoors to a warm house - they'd get covered in condensation that would dry flat. Being gloss paint it could be polished out but that's not really viable on a flat coat - to keep the peace indoors is it possible to warm your outdoor spraying area enough to stop the bloom?
Yes I think it is called bloom. I wonder why solid matt colours don't seem prone to it a all?I thought about spraying it under the hob extractor hood in the kitchen. I've got central heating in the garage, but it's only a small radiator, really just to stop things freezing in winter rather than to space heat it.
I spray in my garage but, luckilly for me, our central heating boiler is located in there so the temperature and humidity never drops that low.
I also find that with the acrylics and thinners I now use there is very little in the way of fumes or odours. The only substance I use that emits any odour is the actual airbrush cleaner.
I also find that with the acrylics and thinners I now use there is very little in the way of fumes or odours. The only substance I use that emits any odour is the actual airbrush cleaner.
FYI I finished the Tempest yesterday, I took a chance and used the Humbrol Matt spray (recommended by the AFV guy at the show)- in the kitchen - after heat soaking the tin in the airing cupboard for 24 hours - and shaking it for about 5 minutes. It worked fine. So I'll be using this from now on becasue I *know* it works under these conditions! The only thing you have to watch for is that, as with most spray cans, the spray is very thick so you need to do very light coats with the tin held about 12" from the surface, and don't pause in one place.
I'll do some varnish tests hopefully this week before I pack the airbrush away.
I'll do some varnish tests hopefully this week before I pack the airbrush away.
Yertis said:
I think about doing things like that too, but since my wife found me using the dishwasher to 'degrease' suspension components these thoughts remain just that.
I chuckled out loud to this! I thought I was the only one to have 'crazy' ideas like this? My wife and I fight a constant battle over my 'bright' ideas - if only she knew what genius' we all really are! Ben Magoo said:
Yertis said:
I think about doing things like that too, but since my wife found me using the dishwasher to 'degrease' suspension components these thoughts remain just that.
I chuckled out loud to this! I thought I was the only one to have 'crazy' ideas like this? My wife and I fight a constant battle over my 'bright' ideas - if only she knew what genius' we all really are! perdu said:
to get the Humbrol Matt Spray, no luck locally and the Tamiya version specifically warns against spraying decals
Sod's a life innit
Must cast further in search of the GrailSpray
To be fair Perdu, the other matt varnishes *might* be absolutely fine, if sprayed in the right (dry) conditions.Sod's a life innit
Must cast further in search of the GrailSpray
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