Modelling tips

[AnimalMkIV]

Hi all, I'd like some tips on using decal softener. I have some MicroSol & MicroSet but am still having trouble getting decals to sit on curved surfaces. My last model, a Honda had long decals over the curves tailpiece and they were a nightmare. One side went sort of okay but the other side just cracked rather than moulding to the shape. What's the best method for using this stuff?

[robemcdonald]

AnimalMkIV said:

Hi all, I'd like some tips on using decal softener. I have some MicroSol & MicroSet but am still having trouble getting decals to sit on curved surfaces. My last model, a Honda had long decals over the curves tailpiece and they were a nightmare. One side went sort of okay but the other side just cracked rather than moulding to the shape. What's the best method for using this stuff?

-Make sure the surface is as smooth as possible. Gloss coat is what most people do.

-take the Microset and put it back in the drawer.

-Use Luke warm water. That helps soften the decal.

-Once the decal is applied and in place use two damp cotton buds. One to hold it in place, the other to tease any water from under the decals. I gently roll the bud as I think it’s a bit easier on the decal.

- the decal should now be in place, but not 100% conforming to the model.

-use the Microsol and wet the decal.

-leave for 5 minutes

-use a damp cotton bud again to very gently help the decal conform to the model.

-repeat the last couple of stages as required. Don’t try and do it in one go.

-don’t use too much softener as the decal might deform.

[AnimalMkIV]

robemcdonald said:

-Make sure the surface is as smooth as possible. Gloss coat is what most people do.

-take the Microset and put it back in the drawer.

-Use Luke warm water. That helps soften the decal.

-Once the decal is applied and in place use two damp cotton buds. One to hold it in place, the other to tease any water from under the decals. I gently roll the bud as I think it’s a bit easier on the decal.

- the decal should now be in place, but not 100% conforming to the model.

-use the Microsol and wet the decal.

-leave for 5 minutes

-use a damp cotton bud again to very gently help the decal conform to the model.

-repeat the last couple of stages as required. Don’t try and do it in one go.

-don’t use too much softener as the decal might deform.

Cheers. I'll see how the next one goes.

[HighwayToHull]

I too use Microsol only, both to wet the surface before application and to treat the decal afterwards.

If it's a bit reluctant to conform to the surface, gently warming with a hair dryer often helps. Keep the dryer perpendicular to the surface, as blowing the decal away won't help nearly as much.

[Squirrelofwoe]

What filler do people use for small seamlines etc?

I've got some of the Revell Plasto filler which is pretty good for larger gaps but I've found on newer kits I could do with something a bit 'finer'.

The Plasto seems a bit overkill for this- I reckon it would have done a decent job on the wheel arches and sills of my old Mk4 Ford Escort

[Prolex-UK]

Squirrelofwoe said:

What filler do people use for small seamlines etc?

I've got some of the Revell Plasto filler which is pretty good for larger gaps but I've found on newer kits I could do with something a bit 'finer'.

The Plasto seems a bit overkill for this- I reckon it would have done a decent job on the wheel arches and sills of my old Mk4 Ford Escort

PLASTIC PUTTY

[robemcdonald]

I use Vallejo acrylic putty. It comes in a small dropper bottle and is quite runny. Great for smaller gaps. After its dried you can clear away the excess with a damp cloth.

[Squirrelofwoe]

robemcdonald said:

I use Vallejo acrylic putty. It comes in a small dropper bottle and is quite runny. Great for smaller gaps. After its dried you can clear away the excess with a damp cloth.

That sounds like exactly what I'm after.

I've just ordered a small bottle so will give it a go.

[dr_gn]

Worth being aware that the Vallejo putty can't be sanded after its set - it remains a bit rubbery. Great for small gaps (as requested), but avoid it if you think you might need to profile it in any way.

[Squirrelofwoe]

dr_gn said:

Worth being aware that the Vallejo putty can't be sanded after its set - it remains a bit rubbery. Great for small gaps (as requested), but avoid it if you think you might need to profile it in any way.

Cheers will keep that in mind.

What would you guys recommend for something with a harder (sand-able) finish for external contoured areas? Persevere with the Revell Plasto?

[dr_gn]

Squirrelofwoe said:

dr_gn said:

Worth being aware that the Vallejo putty can't be sanded after its set - it remains a bit rubbery. Great for small gaps (as requested), but avoid it if you think you might need to profile it in any way.

Cheers will keep that in mind.

What would you guys recommend for something with a harder (sand-able) finish for external contoured areas? Persevere with the Revell Plasto?

I use white Milliput. It takes 24 hours to set, but can be mixed with water to make it as thin or thick as you need. I find that a pretty thick paste can be applied into gaps with a cocktail stick, and then wiped smooth with a damp glasses cleaning cloth. Rarely needs further work. The issue with it is having to wait for it to set, but sometimes a bit of thinking time is a good thing.

For simple externally rounded parts like the top and bottom of fuselage halves, Tamiya plastic putty is OK and sets a lot faster. Can't be profiled with water though, and I'm always reluctant to use stronger solvents on plastic.

For very small gaps as above, Mr. Surfacer is good, again applied locally with a cocktail stick. It needs several coats and again takes overnight to set.

Bear in mind that may fillers shrink, so you can come back a week later and still see a witness line. They also really need a primer, because some absorb paints like crazy.

[HighwayToHull]

Cellulose thinners can be mixed with Plasto to make it less thick.

(I have often suspected that Plasto is nothing more than cellulose primer with less thinners in it. Indeed I once tested this theory; after running out of primer, I diluted some Plasto and used that instead. Worked fine!)

[dr_gn]

HighwayToHull said:

Cellulose thinners can be mixed with Plasto to make it less thick.

(I have often suspected that Plasto is nothing more than cellulose primer with less thinners in it. Indeed I once tested this theory; after running out of primer, I diluted some Plasto and used that instead. Worked fine!)

Basically what Mr.Surfacer is. Shrinks like crazy.

[new_bloke]

Hi,
I'd really appreciate some advice on airbrushing clear coat - in particular Alclad Aquagloss (ALC-600). I'm really struggling to get an even coat, and am getting really bad tip drying problems. I'm using a 0.5mm needle and about 10psi. I'm working about 5cm away from the surface of the model. What might I be doing wrong? Is it time to splash out on a better airbrush perhaps, or am I being the proverbial bad workman?
Any and all advice welcome!

NB

[dr_gn]

new_bloke said:

Hi,
I'd really appreciate some advice on airbrushing clear coat - in particular Alclad Aquagloss (ALC-600). I'm really struggling to get an even coat, and am getting really bad tip drying problems. I'm using a 0.5mm needle and about 10psi. I'm working about 5cm away from the surface of the model. What might I be doing wrong? Is it time to splash out on a better airbrush perhaps, or am I being the proverbial bad workman?
Any and all advice welcome!

NB

Probably not the airbrush. Any fast drying paint has the potential to give you problems - either drying on the tip as you say, which casues spatter and blockages, or the paint drying too quickly on the surface of the model, such that it doesn't have time to level.

I've never used Alclad Aquagloss. the last gloss I used was Tamiya X-20, on this Ferrari:

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing//topic.asp?h=0...

As you can see it needed polishing back to give a smooth (OK fairly smooth) gloss finish.The Tamiya stuff has a reputation as a "hot" varnish and can damage decals, so if you decide to use it, do a test piece first.

I've also used Mr Hobby H30 water based gloss, but that was mixed with flat to give a satin finish. Supposed to be good though.

Other option would be to buy some Halfords spray can gloss, wither from the can or deanted into the airbrush (depends on the size of what youre painting). Might be slower drying. Again, very important to test on a worthless piece first - it may go horribly wrong. It'll probably need polishing up when rock hard (after a week or so) with T-Cut or similar, and you'll need some airbrush cleaner aerosol or whatever to clean up afterwards.

Clear coats just aren't easy sometimes.

[audikentman]

If you have an airbrush buy an Ultrasonic cleaner, got mine for about £25 off Ebay, makes cleaning the airbrush a joy.
No longer worry about blockages from dried on paint

[CobolMan]

I've started to use Liquid Gravity to add nose weight to my aircraft kits. It's pretty good stuff and it gets into the tiniest of spaces, even the locating holes on fuselage sides are fair game. If you're tempted to try it then I've got two tips:
1) the kit box lid is great to keep mess to a minimum
2) if you've got cats, keep the lid on the bottle after each pour...

Seriously, it has made adding weight a doddle - I don't think my Revell Shackleton will be a tail sitter, even with the scratch built interior adding weight behind the main wheels.

[Rod200SX]

Thought best asking on here rather than making a new thread.

Anyone got any recommendations for a cheap 'does the job' airbrush & compressor?

Doing my first model in probably 20 years and trying to refrain from spending a fortune on 1 single model and finding out I can't be bothered.

I know buy cheap, buy twice etc but going to be doing a Nissan skyline in millennium jade and can only seem to find it in airbrush form

[robemcdonald]

Rod200SX said:

Thought best asking on here rather than making a new thread.

Anyone got any recommendations for a cheap 'does the job' airbrush & compressor?

Doing my first model in probably 20 years and trying to refrain from spending a fortune on 1 single model and finding out I can't be bothered.

I know buy cheap, buy twice etc but going to be doing a Nissan skyline in millennium jade and can only seem to find it in airbrush form

I’d love to help, but last time I stuck my oar in on this subject I ended up giving away an airbrush and compressor….

There have been numerous threads on this.

There are pros and cons to going cheap or moderate expense.

If I had to advise I’d say go for a cheap compressor from Amazon with a tank otherwise the thing will make a racket all the time you are spraying.
For the airbrush don’t get a £20 one as it may be good or it may be st. I’ve had two “identical” ones bought at the same time and one was great and the other not so much.

Plenty of choice on Amazon and eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AS186-airbrush-kit-with...

[Rod200SX]

robemcdonald said:

Rod200SX said:

Thought best asking on here rather than making a new thread.

Anyone got any recommendations for a cheap 'does the job' airbrush & compressor?

Doing my first model in probably 20 years and trying to refrain from spending a fortune on 1 single model and finding out I can't be bothered.

I know buy cheap, buy twice etc but going to be doing a Nissan skyline in millennium jade and can only seem to find it in airbrush form

I’d love to help, but last time I stuck my oar in on this subject I ended up giving away an airbrush and compressor….

There have been numerous threads on this.

There are pros and cons to going cheap or moderate expense.

If I had to advise I’d say go for a cheap compressor from Amazon with a tank otherwise the thing will make a racket all the time you are spraying.
For the airbrush don’t get a £20 one as it may be good or it may be st. I’ve had two “identical” ones bought at the same time and one was great and the other not so much.

Plenty of choice on Amazon and eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AS186-airbrush-kit-with...

Need not worry, I won't take one from you, unless you reaaally insist

Magic, I shall have a nosey. will have a trawl on facebook marketplace and the likes, too. good call for one with a tank. Think I'd drive myself mad with that.

Any experience of the ones using compressed air/gas cans? Not really what I'm after but keeping options open, would rather have a compressor.

Eta: seen some that use compressed air, surely this would be a bit of a pain due to cool down from the can & condensation spits? And gas wouldn't be cost effective after a couple tins.

Edited by Rod200SX on Tuesday 15th February 14:38