Alpine A110 owners

[Franzino]

Miserablegit said:

I don't disagree but it is not normally as noticeable becuase the surface is almost vertical- the photo was taken at that angle to show it at its most visible.

Ok got it; I thought it was mostly part of the angle. Just wondering; why did you not remove the Alpine letters and get them refitted on top of the PPF to have a nicer finish?

[Miserablegit]

I wasn’t given that option - I had no idea what they would do. In hindsight it might have been a better option but then there would be more cost/hassle if/when the film is removed
As I say it doesn’t bother me too much as I drive the car so often. I just wanted to show any prospective ppf buyers what it looks like without removing the lettering.

Changing the topic - has anyone compared exhaust noise between PE and the later models.
As far as I am aware the PE is the only one without a GPF - I had understood there were a few more horses (6hp) in a PE and the exhaust was a bit louder. I’ve not been able to check.

[Meonstoke]

Franzino said:

1 year driving / 17.000km / 4x trackdays => zero oil consumption.
If you want the tool-free loops that the newer S models have then you have to buy the full engine cover with Alpine (tool-free loops are not sold separately). The rear engine cover (of the S) is rather expensive from Alpine. Then you could almost buy the one from Waldow if you want to spend a little more and like carbon. But the carbon Waldow engine cover will probably generate a little bit more interior noise (less sound deadening then the original one). The carbon Waldow engine cover has the standard screw-top, but maybe you can ask them for the update easy to use S versions?

Thanks Franzino and MG for your very good insights - and for taking the time to include photoshots to illustrate your points. Very fine of you indeed! I'm really glad I raised these specific points via this forum - and hopefully the feedback will also be helpful to others considering PPF/ XPEL - irrespective of their carriage of choice!

Ref: "If you want the tool-free loops that the newer S models have": my excuses - I couldn't fully follow that particular thread. Do newer S models have an easier way of releasing the engine cover (after the 3 screws next to the boot hinges have been removed) ?

M.

[Miserablegit]

Yes - after the three thumbscrews have been removed there are 8 dzus fasteners .


Of the circled items - the top are the standard fittings which require a coin or screwdriver and the bottom are the later ones with a d-ring to use to turn - there is a German company supplying replacements for the earlier version but I haven’t got around to putting an order in

[Meonstoke]

Miserablegit said:

Yes - after the three thumbscrews have been removed there are 8 dzus fasteners .


Of the circled items - the top are the standard fittings which require a coin or screwdriver and the bottom are the later ones with a d-ring to use to turn - there is a German company supplying replacements for the earlier version but I haven’t got around to putting an order in

Ah, that's indeed interesting - a lot easier to undo, I agree. But if I understood correctly, it's not simply about swapping out the original fittings for the d-ring type - you have to have the newer modified engine cover supplied as well? I wonder if this new set-up will be applied to all A110s going forward ?

M.

[Miserablegit]

No it’s a simple fastener swap- or at least is for the ones I’m looking at.
The Waldow performance engine cover is entirely unrelated - it’s a fancy carbon replacement

[springfan62]

A link to the fasteners would be really useful MG.

I have already swapped the 3 screws that hold the rear window with some press button ones. Much easier to use.

[Meonstoke]

springfan62 said:

A link to the fasteners would be really useful MG.

I have already swapped the 3 screws that hold the rear window with some press button ones. Much easier to use.

Hi SF, also interesting to know. Do you have a link and/or photo to show what you now use?

M.

[Miserablegit]

https://www.alpine-tuning.de/alpine-a110-zubehoer/

[bcr5784]

springfan62 said:

I have already swapped the 3 screws that hold the rear window with some press button ones. Much easier to use.

The best solution, but even if you don't make sure you keep the screws lubricated. If you don't they can seize up and cause expensive damage trying to get them out. I use copper ease.

[bcr5784]

biggles330d said:

I'll pick up the hint!

Can't comment on the above really as I haven't got mine yet but these are some practical use questions I'd also like to understand. I've spec'd mine with telemetrics which has things like oil temp, but don't know about level. The most useful thing i've found about telemetrics was a YouTube video I found yesterday - it's in french but does run through some of the telemetrics features as part of the review. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTVsTwskJnA

The telemetrics don't give oil level, though I was by the dealer told that the car will warn you if it gets low. I've never seen it happen so can't be sure. To be honest most of the telemetrics functions are a bit gimmicy - or are available on the mini screen with the rev counter. The only one I find of real value is oil temperature - which (contrary to what another poster said) is NOT available in any other way. If you want a stop watch or G sensor then you might find that fun. I regard them as essential (for the oil temp) if you intend to track the car.

[K800 RUM]

Thanks
Oil takes a lot longer to come up to temp than coolant.

[bcr5784]

K800 RUM said:

Thanks
Oil takes a lot longer to come up to temp than coolant.

Not on my car - they get to 70C about the same time - about 3 miles of toodling when I checked today (6C)

[Miserablegit]

Indeed -same here - I have the oil and coolant telemetrics on when I’m driving for fun - I was surprised how quickly the oil got to temperature

[springfan62]

Oops my mistake yes its the coolant in the dash, I wait till thats up to temp in Sport before I give it some beans.
Never looked at the oil in Telematics.

For the engine cover I bought these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/6034264388?iid=2240384392...

You have to cut the bolts to the right length but otherwise it's a 10 minute job fitting them.

And for the panel have just ordered some of these, having taken one of the existing one's off these are the same size.
https://raceboltuk.com//titanium-c4/quick-release-...
You need some retainers as well which are readily available.

[Meonstoke]

springfan62 said:

Oops my mistake yes its the coolant in the dash, I wait till thats up to temp in Sport before I give it some beans.
Never looked at the oil in Telematics.

For the engine cover I bought these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/6034264388?iid=2240384392...

You have to cut the bolts to the right length but otherwise it's a 10 minute job fitting them.

And for the panel have just ordered some of these, having taken one of the existing one's off these are the same size.
https://raceboltuk.com//titanium-c4/quick-release-...
You need some retainers as well which are readily available.

Thanks SF and MG for sharing the links for the push buttons and D rings - they look like at ideal enhancement - and so obvious you wonder why Alpine didn't think of them at the time!

I saw an earlier discussion ref: creating easier battery / trickle charger access to the battery. Useful, although not much use to me unfortunately. I have a German designed carrousel parking (rotating 'box') system which disallows the possibility of plugging into an external electricity socket. If my battery dies I will need to use a battery booster via jump leads. Such is life.

I was wondering, are there any other handy practical enhancements / tips worth summarising for the A110 ?

M.

[Miserablegit]

I saw one of those systems when I was in Berlin some years ago at Classic Remise
https://remise.de/berlin
Looked incredible.

If daylight can get in it might be possible to use a solar panel on the windscreen connected to the battery. If it is in secure storage I’d be tempted to fit a battery isolator to then connect when it is being used. Should keep the battery going a little longer without the alarm drain etc.

[bcr5784]

springfan62 said:

And for the panel have just ordered some of these, having taken one of the existing one's off these are the same size.
https://raceboltuk.com//titanium-c4/quick-release-...
You need some retainers as well which are readily available.

Kudos for going titanium for the lightweight ethos. Perhaps further than a cheapskate like me would go! There is doubtless a market for a titanium exhaust.

[Meonstoke]

Miserablegit said:

I saw one of those systems when I was in Berlin some years ago at Classic Remise
https://remise.de/berlin
Looked incredible.

If daylight can get in it might be possible to use a solar panel on the windscreen connected to the battery. If it is in secure storage I’d be tempted to fit a battery isolator to then connect when it is being used. Should keep the battery going a little longer without the alarm drain etc.

Hi MG, that's interesting, I've visited the same place a few times myself - we have friends in Berlin. It's one of the best classic car multi-purpose, and multi-marque facilities I've come across - and as it's not focused on buying and selling, it's an authentic place to visit for a petrol or pistonhead.

Good thinking on the battery isolator. I was also considering switching off the electronic handbrake too, to save some battery juice.

M.

[Miserablegit]

Don’t use the electronic handbrake when storing the car- it can seize on. Put the car in park and then push the start/stop button whilst holding the brake and pushing the parking brake button down - you’ll see a warning to apply parking brake and few beeps when you open the door.