Cam and diff ratio change. Who to use?

[91964]

Hi all,

I live in Norfolk and looking to get a cam swap and a change of diff ratios in time. Who comes recommended to do this kind of job? The less travel the better obviously but most importantly guys who know there stuff.
Thanks in advance

[Lincsls1]

I know for a fact AAS in Newcastle are more than competent at this sort of work, but they don't tune the car, they would use Wortec I believe.

TopCats performance, Aylesbury, would also be a good shout. Don't know who would tune.

Carl Herkes LS Performance Parts, Southampton, would tune in house via Luis Sola - excellent by all accounts.

[Janosh]

Closest to you is probably Neil at NWJ, by all accounts he knows his way around a Holden.

I personally use Carl and LS performance.. can’t fault them.

[H5V VE]

based on personal experience, Carl Herkes or WP

I hear good things about NWJ and Topcats but never used them. Out of my geographic area.

[MontyPythonX]

Lincsls1 said:

I know for a fact AAS in Newcastle are more than competent at this sort of work, but they don't tune the car, they would use Wortec I believe.

I just had some work done by AAS and they're incredibly busy at the moment. Stuart was saying they're got about a 6 month backlog going on so dont expect anything quick with them.

[SturdyHSV]

91964 said:

Hi all,

I live in Norfolk and looking to get a cam swap and a change of diff ratios in time. Who comes recommended to do this kind of job? The less travel the better obviously but most importantly guys who know there stuff.
Thanks in advance

Having replaced brakes / suspension, you'd be more than capable of swapping a cam yourself as well, it's all the labour costs that make NA mods expensive so could save yourself some £££

[fred bloggs]

The cam swap is not at all difficult. Im actually doing it again as I've got a lunched lifter.
Cant complain I've had the cam in for 4 years and 20k.

[SturdyHSV]

fred bloggs said:

The cam swap is not at all difficult. Im actually doing it again as I've got a lunched lifter.
Cant complain I've had the cam in for 4 years and 20k.

This on the LS1? What cam specs are coming out / going in?

[mfp4073]

Just out of interest what is the expected lifespan of a set of lifters using a standard cam?

[SturdyHSV]

mfp4073 said:

Just out of interest what is the expected lifespan of a set of lifters using a standard cam?

With regular oil changes and stuff then other than a weird failure, it's basically forever and ever, amen Plenty of LS engines run to 250,000 miles in trucks and things.

It's only really once you up lift rates and spring pressures that you'd start bothering the standard lifters.

Most people will upgrade to LS7 lifters when doing the cam, it means taking the heads off but beyond the cost of coolant and a new set of head bolts, it's a simple job to do. GM only supply the LS7 lifters now as replacements anyway as far as I'm aware.

[91964]

SturdyHSV said:

Having replaced brakes / suspension, you'd be more than capable of swapping a cam yourself as well, it's all the labour costs that make NA mods expensive so could save yourself some £££

Really? Ok, well I will check a few online guides. My issues are always one of having the correct tools but it’s probably worth buying them as needed with the money saved on labour.

Is there a “common” one to go for? And a supplier to use?
My 6.0 LS2 is currently running headers, sports cats, OTR, maffless and a tune. Don’t want it unbearable in traffic but just more top end fizz….. and the bumpy idle obviously

[Global-i]

If you do the diff count on replacing the side adjusters as they are most likely seized in.
Probably a safe bet to get some or at least find some where that can supply them before you start the job.
I would be very surprised if you can get them new anywhere now. When I rebuilt my diff a few years ago, I had to get some steel ones from Gforce in the states.
https://www.gforce1320.com/product/gto-vz-billet-s...

Edited by Global-i on Wednesday 23 June 10:48

[SturdyHSV]

91964 said:

Really? Ok, well I will check a few online guides. My issues are always one of having the correct tools but it’s probably worth buying them as needed with the money saved on labour.

Is there a “common” one to go for? And a supplier to use?
My 6.0 LS2 is currently running headers, sports cats, OTR, maffless and a tune. Don’t want it unbearable in traffic but just more top end fizz….. and the bumpy idle obviously

Consider the can of worms opened

In terms of tools needed, something to pull the harmonic balancer off with (I used a £30 chinese ebay jobby that worked fine, can find a link if you'd like although I seem to remember the price went up a bit at some point). I could post you mine if not!

To re-install the balancer you can just buy some threaded rod and some nuts and large washers.

If you're going to do lifters then really the only other tools needed are a torque wrench and some sockets (from memory possibly just 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm and 24mm for the harmonic balancer bolt)

There are thousands of videos about how to do it, it's a simple and rewarding process. You can reuse the head gaskets and most of the bolts, but you need to get new head bolts (~£100 for a full set) and a new harmonic balancer bolt (~£12 maybe?)

Personally I'd also get a new cam retainer plate as the integrated gasket on that isn't the best for sealing up well after re-installation.

A proper lumpy idle means bad driving manners, that's largely just the nature of it. Personally unless you specifically want something wild, go for a cam around the 220/224 sort of duration, lift under 0.600" will be kind to valvesprings and you won't be giving up loads of power just because of a little lift up top. If it's an LS3 you've got in there then they'll typically have a wider exhaust split (difference between intake and exhaust duration) so cam specs around the 220/228 region are more likely. The Lobe Separation Angle (or LSA) should be around 112 to 114 with those sized cams I've suggested there, you could pull it tighter to a 110 or 111 if you wanted a little more of a 'noticeable' idle, but rest assured you're not going to get a proper 'chop' without a lot of overlap and as such worse manners, worse fuel consumption and a loss of low down torque (say under 3,000 rpm).

There aren't really any hard and fast rules with this stuff but that's a bit of a ballpark to get you started.

Speak to Luis Sola about cams, do not speak to an American about cams as they'll have you running bigfoot's dick as a 'daily driver' and the car will be a turd until 6,000rpm (but admittedly, sound fking epic at idle )

For reference, my cam here was a 228/231 on a 111 LSA. That's in an LS2 with Wortec exhaust and AAS headers. There isn't a hope in hell that would pass an emissions test, and it was a little soggier below about 2,000 - 2,500 rpm.



Needed a good Sola tune to be driveable but for me was very 'streetable', in my (limited) opinion that sort of size is right at the limit of where the diminishing returns really start to ramp up.

[mfp4073]

SturdyHSV said:

With regular oil changes and stuff then other than a weird failure, it's basically forever and ever, amen Plenty of LS engines run to 250,000 miles in trucks and things.

It's only really once you up lift rates and spring pressures that you'd start bothering the standard lifters.

Most people will upgrade to LS7 lifters when doing the cam, it means taking the heads off but beyond the cost of coolant and a new set of head bolts, it's a simple job to do. GM only supply the LS7 lifters now as replacements anyway as far as I'm aware.

Thanks Sturdy,
That's a relief, for some reason I thought around 100,000 miles was about it for standard lifters.
Yes I had heard that LS7 lifters were a good choice and even better than stock.

[fred bloggs]

SturdyHSV said:

This on the LS1? What cam specs are coming out / going in?

Depending on how many lobes are bad, (heads coming off tonight, possibly getting skimmed or new heads, ) either repair the 230/236 112 , or replace with similar. I like it, but cant have any smokers standing behind the car !
I have a cam specialist round the corner, Newman Cams, who can repair/regrind.

I actually have a 218/228 with a 118 lsa on the shelf, which I picked up on the bay, in case I ever need a 'clean' MOT, but not sure on the wide lsa. That would be best on a turbo or blower set up , and is surplus if anyone might need it.

with regards the balancer /pulley, use the old one to pull the balancer on the crank, then fit the new one and torque.

Regards the diff, Best bet is one of the diff shops in australia, get a complete diff shipped over to the spec you want. Deffo the hassle free option.

Edited by fred bloggs on Wednesday 23 June 17:13

Edited by fred bloggs on Wednesday 23 June 17:18

[MyM8V8]

For your LS2 I can recommend a 224/232 with 4 degress of advance ground in on a 114LSA with lift under .6. This will give a slight lope at idle and nice ride in traffic. With good urgency as you go WOT. You may need a longer push rod by 50 thou and replace lifters with LS7s. I used 918 beehive springs. No need for fancy rockers as stock are excellent. This is also a good cam for an LS3 and should pass emissions with cats. Mine did anyway.