Standard R53, £1500 to spend, what first?
Discussion
Hi all,
Having read millions of R53 threads on Mini forums thought I'd ask here where perhaps the views are different or experiences more grounded..
I have a late (2005) R53, 80kish miles which wants for nothing mechanically and I want to up the tempo a bit... Ignoring consumables such as tyres, discs/pads etc what would you do with approx £1500?
My thoughts are Miltek cat back, 17% pulley/plugs and a remap... that leaves change, do I need to do the intercooler at this stage?
Car is low use, a weekend toy, road use only no track days.
Having read millions of R53 threads on Mini forums thought I'd ask here where perhaps the views are different or experiences more grounded..
I have a late (2005) R53, 80kish miles which wants for nothing mechanically and I want to up the tempo a bit... Ignoring consumables such as tyres, discs/pads etc what would you do with approx £1500?
My thoughts are Miltek cat back, 17% pulley/plugs and a remap... that leaves change, do I need to do the intercooler at this stage?
Car is low use, a weekend toy, road use only no track days.
Possibly include a 200 cell sports cat in the exhaust setup? Next suggestion would be a decent bucket seat for the drivers side if its just a weekend toy. If the seats are anything like the leather ones my dads R53 had its quite easy to slide from side to side when you're pushing on.
Hammy98 said:
Possibly include a 200 cell sports cat in the exhaust setup? Next suggestion would be a decent bucket seat for the drivers side if its just a weekend toy. If the seats are anything like the leather ones my dads R53 had its quite easy to slide from side to side when you're pushing on.
Is there a sports cat available to suit the standard manifold do you know? I know what you mean with the seats, they are full leather, but I want to keep it looking standard so will have to look for some JCW Recaro's or similar later! £££££!Dr Interceptor said:
17% pulley, plugs, intercooler, exhaust and a front brake upgrade (R56 Cooper S disc/pads are a good budget first step)
Remap isn't really needed at that stage, the car will be fine without.
If you go to the next step with a cam and injectors, then you'll need a map.
Thats good to know thanks, do the R56 brakes fit ok under the standard wheels?Remap isn't really needed at that stage, the car will be fine without.
If you go to the next step with a cam and injectors, then you'll need a map.
I wouldn't bother with the cat. Orranje or JCW airbox, smaller pulley and exhaust are a good start for power - should get you 200bhp ish, maybe a bit more. Brakes as said, then I'd do suspension.
If you want more power then do manifold, cam, injectors & intercooler and then map. These are old-fashioned cars in that getting power out of them costs more than just a remap on a turbo car for example
If you want more power then do manifold, cam, injectors & intercooler and then map. These are old-fashioned cars in that getting power out of them costs more than just a remap on a turbo car for example
Shiftd said:
Is there a sports cat available to suit the standard manifold do you know? I know what you mean with the seats, they are full leather, but I want to keep it looking standard so will have to look for some JCW Recaro's or similar later! £££££!
I seem to remember a lad on Newminiscotland saying the Milltek does - but don't quote me on that. A decent enough exhaust shop should be able to build a system for you including the sports cat. I understand where you're coming from with the seats, big race-style buckets can look a bit out of place. Good shout on the Recaros.
The standard manifold is more restrictive than the cat. I've got a Janspeed manifold with the stock cat welded to it.
Folk have had issues with sports cats disintegrating in the past, and never gained power with them in place. Stock cat is fine IMO - folk have made silly power with it in place
Folk have had issues with sports cats disintegrating in the past, and never gained power with them in place. Stock cat is fine IMO - folk have made silly power with it in place
Internet advice eh?
You said up the tempo right? Not the noise correct?
The car you said wants for nothing now you say, sounds like a nice car, great!
£1500?
Fit an interference fit 15% pulley (GTT just for this), and drop the plug temps perhaps by one grade, NGK BKR7EIX is fine, or standard rate FGR7DQUP Bosch (strong plug)
Fit front brakes from an R56S which go straight on with just a hose change although the R56S brake shields don't, that bit's up to you.
Map it! (1320 just for this) Ignore much of the 'it'll be fine', 'I've never had an issue', 'they run rich anyway', these people haven't mapped their cars for the mods made and simply have no idea how the car is really running. Having this done properly will smooth power delivery, reduce knock/detonation, reduce rich areas in the wrong places, and weak areas in the very wrong places, correct the ignition timing, provide power where it should be, manage engine life due to correct fuelling, prolong the catalytic converter life, maybe become more efficient, reduce risk of bore wash from over fuelling, and correct the AFR's all through the rev range to suit your changes, optimising the cars performance, identify areas of concern too sometimes, well in advance.
Try and find a second hand GP intercooler.
K&N element for your air cleaner will do, or if you can find a JCW airbox with all the bits including the control module this is also good, but unlikely. Some people insist on gutting them for more noise, nothing else. Whatever you do don't fit any open type air filter as it just draws heat in from the engine bay.
Leave the exhaust alone, it won't make you faster, it might make you sound faster. The standard system will cope with more than you're about to do.
Ok now you have a car that nobody can obviously see looks or sounds any different but is closer to 200hp
If you spend just a bit more, buy a different camshaft, invisible to anyone, but add 10-20hp potentially and it will free the engine above 4.5k which is where they have to be pushed a bit as standard.
Then after that you might wish to find a ported head and bigger exhaust valves, more money haha. Here you'll be 230-240 hp.
If fitting a cam, you 'could' fit a different exhaust manifold with sports cat but you still don't need a cat back and it won't make any more power, it'll help get exhaust/heat away from the cylinder head, but bear in mind, remap after every change, small changes can alter things more than you might imagine.
That's my2p haha
You said up the tempo right? Not the noise correct?
The car you said wants for nothing now you say, sounds like a nice car, great!
£1500?
Fit an interference fit 15% pulley (GTT just for this), and drop the plug temps perhaps by one grade, NGK BKR7EIX is fine, or standard rate FGR7DQUP Bosch (strong plug)
Fit front brakes from an R56S which go straight on with just a hose change although the R56S brake shields don't, that bit's up to you.
Map it! (1320 just for this) Ignore much of the 'it'll be fine', 'I've never had an issue', 'they run rich anyway', these people haven't mapped their cars for the mods made and simply have no idea how the car is really running. Having this done properly will smooth power delivery, reduce knock/detonation, reduce rich areas in the wrong places, and weak areas in the very wrong places, correct the ignition timing, provide power where it should be, manage engine life due to correct fuelling, prolong the catalytic converter life, maybe become more efficient, reduce risk of bore wash from over fuelling, and correct the AFR's all through the rev range to suit your changes, optimising the cars performance, identify areas of concern too sometimes, well in advance.
Try and find a second hand GP intercooler.
K&N element for your air cleaner will do, or if you can find a JCW airbox with all the bits including the control module this is also good, but unlikely. Some people insist on gutting them for more noise, nothing else. Whatever you do don't fit any open type air filter as it just draws heat in from the engine bay.
Leave the exhaust alone, it won't make you faster, it might make you sound faster. The standard system will cope with more than you're about to do.
Ok now you have a car that nobody can obviously see looks or sounds any different but is closer to 200hp
If you spend just a bit more, buy a different camshaft, invisible to anyone, but add 10-20hp potentially and it will free the engine above 4.5k which is where they have to be pushed a bit as standard.
Then after that you might wish to find a ported head and bigger exhaust valves, more money haha. Here you'll be 230-240 hp.
If fitting a cam, you 'could' fit a different exhaust manifold with sports cat but you still don't need a cat back and it won't make any more power, it'll help get exhaust/heat away from the cylinder head, but bear in mind, remap after every change, small changes can alter things more than you might imagine.
That's my2p haha
I spent about that on mine if I ignore the track specific mods, strut brace, coilovers, seats & harnesses.
Front & rear poly bush kit, 200 cell cat & cat back from toyosports, 60mm cored intercooler from the bay, Gates 17% pulley kit, home made CAI incorporating pipercross filter, home made alloy i/cooler surround, supercharger service kit & mods to make it easier next time, cooler plugs, 10mm leads & Magnecor coil pack, track rods, ball joints etc all renewed, basically it is a new car underneath but has 85k miles on the speedo, it drives fantastic and I am hoping a remap will see above 220.
Front & rear poly bush kit, 200 cell cat & cat back from toyosports, 60mm cored intercooler from the bay, Gates 17% pulley kit, home made CAI incorporating pipercross filter, home made alloy i/cooler surround, supercharger service kit & mods to make it easier next time, cooler plugs, 10mm leads & Magnecor coil pack, track rods, ball joints etc all renewed, basically it is a new car underneath but has 85k miles on the speedo, it drives fantastic and I am hoping a remap will see above 220.
E-bmw said:
I spent about that on mine if I ignore the track specific mods, strut brace, coilovers, seats & harnesses.
Front & rear poly bush kit, 200 cell cat & cat back from toyosports, 60mm cored intercooler from the bay, Gates 17% pulley kit, home made CAI incorporating pipercross filter, home made alloy i/cooler surround, supercharger service kit & mods to make it easier next time, cooler plugs, 10mm leads & Magnecor coil pack, track rods, ball joints etc all renewed, basically it is a new car underneath but has 85k miles on the speedo, it drives fantastic and I am hoping a remap will see above 220.
Should be well above that - my JCW that head 210bhp (allegedly) now has 230bhp with a Janspeed manifold, Newman cam and 1320 remap. Still on JCW 11% pulley, so you should be pushing 240-250bhp with a cam and tuneFront & rear poly bush kit, 200 cell cat & cat back from toyosports, 60mm cored intercooler from the bay, Gates 17% pulley kit, home made CAI incorporating pipercross filter, home made alloy i/cooler surround, supercharger service kit & mods to make it easier next time, cooler plugs, 10mm leads & Magnecor coil pack, track rods, ball joints etc all renewed, basically it is a new car underneath but has 85k miles on the speedo, it drives fantastic and I am hoping a remap will see above 220.
mon the fish said:
E-bmw said:
I spent about that on mine if I ignore the track specific mods, strut brace, coilovers, seats & harnesses.
Front & rear poly bush kit, 200 cell cat & cat back from toyosports, 60mm cored intercooler from the bay, Gates 17% pulley kit, home made CAI incorporating pipercross filter, home made alloy i/cooler surround, supercharger service kit & mods to make it easier next time, cooler plugs, 10mm leads & Magnecor coil pack, track rods, ball joints etc all renewed, basically it is a new car underneath but has 85k miles on the speedo, it drives fantastic and I am hoping a remap will see above 220.
Should be well above that - my JCW that head 210bhp (allegedly) now has 230bhp with a Janspeed manifold, Newman cam and 1320 remap. Still on JCW 11% pulley, so you should be pushing 240-250bhp with a cam and tuneFront & rear poly bush kit, 200 cell cat & cat back from toyosports, 60mm cored intercooler from the bay, Gates 17% pulley kit, home made CAI incorporating pipercross filter, home made alloy i/cooler surround, supercharger service kit & mods to make it easier next time, cooler plugs, 10mm leads & Magnecor coil pack, track rods, ball joints etc all renewed, basically it is a new car underneath but has 85k miles on the speedo, it drives fantastic and I am hoping a remap will see above 220.
Great info there guys, good to read differing personal experiences not just the one size fits all + coilovers I seem to read everywhere else! 
The R56 brake mod makes good sense, they're not as good as I'd like currently so that seems a good ££ option.
I've briefly spoken with Lohen about a few bits so maybe worth me talking to 1320 also along the same lines.
The R56 brake mod makes good sense, they're not as good as I'd like currently so that seems a good ££ option.
I've briefly spoken with Lohen about a few bits so maybe worth me talking to 1320 also along the same lines.
E-bmw said:
Did you have a direct comparison with the before & after?
I've got the 1320 dyno printout somewhere at home, I'll see if I can find it later.When I picked the car up at 1320 I had a 9 hour drive home to Aberdeen, and I remember laughing at the increased mid-range and torque at motorway speeds. Really brought the car together
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