Lohen Performance Pack 2

Lohen Performance Pack 2

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Discussion

GaryF

Original Poster:

970 posts

252 months

Friday 24th November 2017
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Sir Dave, yes - mine is an N14, but I didn't realise that they had a reputation for chocolate pistons.

I'm now starting to question my next move. All I've done thus far is fit an AEM industion kit and had hoped to go for more power as the next step with the Manic remap, bigger intercooler, Akrapovic downpipe, new sparks and likely the upgraded clutch.

Was the juddery clutch you refer to the TTV Organic version that they say has OEM feel here? :-

http://www.lohen.co.uk/shop/gen-2-mini/drivetrain/...

Sir_Dave

1,494 posts

209 months

Monday 27th November 2017
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GaryF said:
Sir Dave, yes - mine is an N14, but I didn't realise that they had a reputation for chocolate pistons.

I'm now starting to question my next move. All I've done thus far is fit an AEM industion kit and had hoped to go for more power as the next step with the Manic remap, bigger intercooler, Akrapovic downpipe, new sparks and likely the upgraded clutch.

Was the juddery clutch you refer to the TTV Organic version that they say has OEM feel here? :-

http://www.lohen.co.uk/shop/gen-2-mini/drivetrain/...
Mines the Organic Helix one here: http://www.lohen.co.uk/shop/gen-2-mini/drivetrain/... at the time, it was sold as "OEM in feel", which is wasnt lol. But going from DMF to SMF perhaps i expected too much?

Yeah, the N14's tend to blow up with Stage 2 and heavy usage, you might be ok, you might not - have a search on Minitorque for engine failures. There are quite a few. Id only go stage 2 with forged pistons personally yes hence why mine only went for bolt-ons, even at 235bhp it was pretty darn rapid!

GaryF

Original Poster:

970 posts

252 months

Monday 27th November 2017
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Thanks Sir Dave.

I'll take a gander on Minitorque for more info regarding engine problems with higher states of tune. It may be prudent not to go too mad here and see how I get on with a Manic stage 1 tune instead and keep the standard clutch.

Would it be a big improvement with the Quaife LSD even with a milder stage 1 tune as regards getting the power down / overall driving experience? Comments welcome from anyone with Quaife diff experience on their Mini.

The1Driver

727 posts

151 months

Tuesday 5th December 2017
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Has the OP gone with the upgrade?

I was at Lohen for the day on Friday. Went for the stage one package. The car feels amazing!

I have a thread in the "Reader's Car" section. Talking about my visit to Lohen. On the day, lohen realise that they had previously fitted a quaife diff to the car!



Edited by The1Driver on Tuesday 5th December 08:49

Sir_Dave

1,494 posts

209 months

Tuesday 5th December 2017
quotequote all
GaryF said:
Would it be a big improvement with the Quaife LSD even with a milder stage 1 tune as regards getting the power down / overall driving experience? Comments welcome from anyone with Quaife diff experience on their Mini.
Definitely!! I've fitted Quaifes to both my R53 & R56 and the difference was staggering, not just in drive out of the corner, but it seemed like i could brake far later & deeper into the corners. Perhaps more benefit on the R53, but still a worthwhile addition to the newer car biggrin



CarsOrBikes

1,135 posts

183 months

Tuesday 5th December 2017
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I also have the Quaife, and lowered final drive, the jury's out on whether I think a mechanical one would be better, but over the standard mechanical 25% locking diff I have, yes it's a real difference, it will pull you into a corner, as well as out of it, and gets rid of torque steer almost completely. Worth it imo.

GaryF

Original Poster:

970 posts

252 months

Tuesday 5th December 2017
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I'm definitely going for the upgrade - currently saving for the Lohen Performance Pack 2, after which I'll run it for a while before uprating the clutch and diff (hopefully without losing the clutch in the interim). That will provide some time for the piggy bank to recover.

I found some very useful info on the other forum about clutch / diff upgrades so I'm trying to figure which is the best option between OS Giken clutch and diff v Quaife and Lohen TTV organic clutch. There is some good praise for the OS G option but some comments on low speed mis-behaviour on full lock (hopping) but not sure if that was just until things bedded in. Sacrificing day to day drivability would rule that option out for me in a DD. When I'm over at Lohen I'll see if I can try a car with the Quaife diff and TTV organic clutch.

To add to my expenses, it transpires that both my front shocks are leaking and need replaced. So I'm wondering if KW V1 coilovers are much of an improvement over standard. There is a chance tham Mini may help 'with' replacement OEM items and the car is due a service just as of this week so a few factors to think about as regards what to do when it's in - if Mini are going to be supportive and it will be cheap, I may just stick with OEM for now.

I've also got water ingress in the front fogs and some corrosion in there on the reflectors so want to get DRLs in whilst its in too. Why is it that its all happening at once?! Going to need an even bigger piggy bank eek

Any views on OS Giken v Quaife diffs appreciated in the interim saving period...

mon the fish

1,412 posts

147 months

Wednesday 6th December 2017
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GaryF said:
I'm definitely going for the upgrade - currently saving for the Lohen Performance Pack 2, after which I'll run it for a while before uprating the clutch and diff (hopefully without losing the clutch in the interim). That will provide some time for the piggy bank to recover.

I found some very useful info on the other forum about clutch / diff upgrades so I'm trying to figure which is the best option between OS Giken clutch and diff v Quaife and Lohen TTV organic clutch. There is some good praise for the OS G option but some comments on low speed mis-behaviour on full lock (hopping) but not sure if that was just until things bedded in. Sacrificing day to day drivability would rule that option out for me in a DD. When I'm over at Lohen I'll see if I can try a car with the Quaife diff and TTV organic clutch.

To add to my expenses, it transpires that both my front shocks are leaking and need replaced. So I'm wondering if KW V1 coilovers are much of an improvement over standard. There is a chance tham Mini may help 'with' replacement OEM items and the car is due a service just as of this week so a few factors to think about as regards what to do when it's in - if Mini are going to be supportive and it will be cheap, I may just stick with OEM for now.

I've also got water ingress in the front fogs and some corrosion in there on the reflectors so want to get DRLs in whilst its in too. Why is it that its all happening at once?! Going to need an even bigger piggy bank eek

Any views on OS Giken v Quaife diffs appreciated in the interim saving period...
I still maintain that the stock suspension is terrible, and seems like a good excuse to upgrade - but I would push to get the replacements from Mini, so that you have a set of stock suspension to put on if you sell the car, and sell it as standard

GaryF

Original Poster:

970 posts

252 months

Wednesday 6th December 2017
quotequote all
mon the fish said:
I still maintain that the stock suspension is terrible, and seems like a good excuse to upgrade - but I would push to get the replacements from Mini, so that you have a set of stock suspension to put on if you sell the car, and sell it as standard
hehheh, I may a a few more un-mods to do by then to get it back to standard hehe

Booked in for service now for next week with cap-in-hand to Mini re: the weeping shocks. Price for supply and fit of DRLs is TBC but I think it's around £350-375 based on what I have seen as a special offer before whilst in.

GaryF

Original Poster:

970 posts

252 months

Tuesday 19th December 2017
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Well some minor progress to report...

Had the DRLs fitted (£375 all in) - I know, I know form over function, but the originals were getting tired.

Not got a response back from Mini yet if they will cover the weeping shocks but I'm very taken by the prospect of Ohlins Road & Track coilovers. I've done a lot of reading up on all the options and Ohlins, though expensive, seem to get great reviews with their DFV (dual flow valve) technology for compliance over bumps but also for improved cornering at higher speeds.

Best price for these I can find is £1,670 + fitting. If I can do better, plese let me know...

steve-5snwi

8,593 posts

92 months

Wednesday 20th December 2017
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I thought there was a used set on Minitorque.

GaryF

Original Poster:

970 posts

252 months

Tuesday 16th January 2018
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Just ordered the Ohlins as the next step.

Will report back when fitted...

moonigan

2,127 posts

240 months

Tuesday 16th January 2018
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GaryF said:
Just ordered the Ohlins as the next step.

Will report back when fitted...
Great decision. I found setting them 7-10 clicks from full hard was perfect for UK roads. You might needs spacers if you are running standard Mini wheels. Get the 11mm ones.

GaryF

Original Poster:

970 posts

252 months

Tuesday 16th January 2018
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moonigan said:
Great decision. I found setting them 7-10 clicks from full hard was perfect for UK roads. You might needs spacers if you are running standard Mini wheels. Get the 11mm ones.
Thanks moonigan. In my head I'd already started to think of beginning half-way at 15 clicks and adjusting from there based on my findings, but that's helpful to know that it's fine to go in stiffer than that (oooer matron).

I don't plan to drop much from standard ride height so as not to loose any tractability so whatever it comes out at with the recommended minimum preloading done (10mm drop would probably be ok - no slamming as I'm 47 years of age and have a nice tweed cap). Will also be running stock JCW rims. With that in mind, do you think I'll need the spacers?

moonigan

2,127 posts

240 months

Tuesday 16th January 2018
quotequote all
GaryF said:
Thanks moonigan. In my head I'd already started to think of beginning half-way at 15 clicks and adjusting from there based on my findings, but that's helpful to know that it's fine to go in stiffer than that (oooer matron).

I don't plan to drop much from standard ride height so as not to loose any tractability so whatever it comes out at with the recommended minimum preloading done (10mm drop would probably be ok - no slamming as I'm 47 years of age and have a nice tweed cap). Will also be running stock JCW rims. With that in mind, do you think I'll need the spacers?
I had to put spacers on mine because the offset on mini wheels isn’t big enough to stop rubbing. Take a look at my thread on mini torque http://www.minitorque.com/forum/f272/moons-r56-jcw...


GaryF

Original Poster:

970 posts

252 months

Tuesday 16th January 2018
quotequote all
Thanks moonigan. I had a read through your thread over there and am liking your positivity about the Ohlins. Can't wait to have those fitted.

Then it'll be on to saving for the next bits which won't come cheap either. It's a slippery (but fun) slope...

mon the fish

1,412 posts

147 months

Wednesday 17th January 2018
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Watch the ride when you add spacers - I used to have 18" JCW wheels, and added spacers and it ruined the ride on my car due to the increased weight (OEM wheels are heavy already).

It felt like the suspension couldn't cope with the weight, and I had to back off a bit on some bumpy B-road sections where previously I could carry more speed. You might be fine, just my experience

GaryF

Original Poster:

970 posts

252 months

Wednesday 17th January 2018
quotequote all
Yes, I'd like to avoid the spacers altogether if I can by not lowering the ride height much. It cuts out their extra weight and the extra weight of the longer bolts that are needed in conjunction with them. Not to mention some additional cost of spacers, longer bolts / locking bolts that can instead go towards the performance pack...

Moonigan, tell me about the Akrapovic downpipe (which is part of performane pack 2) as I see you had one of those fitted and quoted that it was just the right side of an ASBO. I don't know you, so I don't know if that is good (i.e. would not contribute to an ASBO), or, bad (would contribute to an ASBO) hehe

I don't want it to draw to much of the wrong type of attention. Loud? Poppy? Farty?

moonigan

2,127 posts

240 months

Wednesday 17th January 2018
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GaryF said:
Yes, I'd like to avoid the spacers altogether if I can by not lowering the ride height much. It cuts out their extra weight and the extra weight of the longer bolts that are needed in conjunction with them. Not to mention some additional cost of spacers, longer bolts / locking bolts that can instead go towards the performance pack...

Moonigan, tell me about the Akrapovic downpipe (which is part of performane pack 2) as I see you had one of those fitted and quoted that it was just the right side of an ASBO. I don't know you, so I don't know if that is good (i.e. would not contribute to an ASBO), or, bad (would contribute to an ASBO) hehe

I don't want it to draw to much of the wrong type of attention. Loud? Poppy? Farty?
I'm the wrong side of 40 so I don't like my cars to be too shouty. The downpipe made a few pops but nothing like you see on a lot of cars nowadays and nothing much more than you get standard.. As for spacers you might find you have little choice. My car wasn't lowered by any more than is recommended by Ohlins. The other option is to change wheels for something with the correct offset.

I considered the performance pack 2 but my car had an N14 engine and I didn't want to risk any damage.

GaryF

Original Poster:

970 posts

252 months

Monday 12th February 2018
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The Ohlins finally arrived!

Left them and the car in today for fitting. Can't wait to see what difference they make. Though I did find myself sitting in a new F56 JCW on Sat wondering whether I should be putting the cash toward something like that rather than into a six and a bit year old R58...

Of course I'm doing the right thing biggrin