Cooper S 64 Plate with 130,000 Miles... Servicing Questions

Cooper S 64 Plate with 130,000 Miles... Servicing Questions

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CJG98

Original Poster:

468 posts

77 months

Thursday 18th January 2018
quotequote all
Was having a look around at the new F Minis as an upgrade to my Polo. Budget is around £8000 so was looking at 2014ish Cooper D’s ex fleet with 40-60000 Miles.

To my surprise a lovely dark green 2014 64 plate Cooper S pops up for just over £8000. Then I realise it has nearly 130,000 miles on it... :/ .

I’m not too bothered about high Mileage as long as it has been looked after. It passed its MOT in August with 0 advisory’s, however the gear stick looks very worn in the pictures (potentially thrashed around?)

My main concern is on my Polo the service intervals are every 10000 Miles/1 year, I’m not sure what the intervals are for the Mini, but that means if the Mini has the same intervals as the Polo it would’ve been serviced at least 10 times or every 2-3 months... and it’s only 2 years old! OR it’s just been serviced by the year regardless of the miles (65000/year) which seems rather excessive! My Polo is 7 years old and has only 60k Miles. How are these F Series Cooper S’ reliability wise?

What do you think? Anyone got experience with these high mileage “young” cars and how they are serviced? Asking on here before bothering the dealer.

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2018...





steve-5snwi

8,592 posts

92 months

Thursday 18th January 2018
quotequote all
Thats been lived in so the wear on the gearknob is to be expected, i'd want to see another picture of the drivers seat boulster though as it looks worn.

Give BMW/Mini customer services a call and if its been to main dealers then they will have a record of all its services and any warranty work.

It does have a very nice spec though, so might be worth a punt. Early Cooper S's were eating engines but they were all replaced under warranty.

CJG98

Original Poster:

468 posts

77 months

Thursday 18th January 2018
quotequote all
Good point about the seat wear! Didn’t notice it. I absolutely love the spec it’s exactly how I would order one from the factory. I think il keep an eye on it until it drops below the £8k mark....

wlondoner

78 posts

94 months

Friday 19th January 2018
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Hey

I'm an owner of a 2014 Cooper D (mega spec) with 85,000 miles on it.

It has absolutely no visable wear or tear on it.
It's serviced in time all the time by MINI and well looked after. (I also put premium shell Nitro plus diesel in it all the time too) mpg on it is fantastic.

The engine drives like it's done 20k it's so tight.
The F56 in my opinion (I have had 3 generations of MINIs and owned 5 since 2008) is really a small BMW well built and built to do big miles, it's well designed and tough. Where as previous generations I personally don't think they were built for the miles.

People who see the car (mini club fans/family/friends) cannot believe it's done 85k
I plan to keep it that way!

It's always been serviced at MINI even things like first MOT and air con service done there.

So my point is if the car has been looked after do not be afraid of high miles just make sure you do your checks (service history and how many owners it's had) look at the service history and small details like leather tears on the bulster and keebing of alloys.

Looking at that advert I would definitely go to see it! Looks very good condition, well spec'ed the gear stick can be replaced easy - stick a JCW one in from mini and ask the seller to take that cost off the advertised price.
You can also get leather paint on eBay for the seat bulster if it's slightly worn to touch it up.
The service history will be on the screen of that mini so ask the seller to photograph the history and show you it or just call MINI.

Any questions please feel free to message me (I'm rather obsessed with my MINI!)



Edited by wlondoner on Friday 19th January 01:34



Edited by wlondoner on Friday 19th January 01:41

chryslerben

1,168 posts

158 months

Friday 19th January 2018
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wlondoner said:
Hey

it's well designed and tough.
Your not wrong, had a Kia soul hit the left rear corner of an F56 we had on a dual carriageway. The 56 need a new rear bumper and spat (cosmetically damaged) the Kia had bent the front left suspension and practically pulled the wing off thing was undriveable. I was shocked to see how little damage was on the MINI thought it was gonna be a big one when it happened.

Hammy98

793 posts

91 months

Friday 19th January 2018
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That's definitely looking good - making me more confident about hanging onto mine for a good while.

New gear knob, steering wheel retrim and get the bolster seen to and you'd never know it had done anywhere near that mileage.

For comparison I'd maybe go for a test drive on a dealers demo car and compare the two, would be interesting to hear your thoughts.

Hope all goes well, they're great cars.


daemon

35,724 posts

196 months

Friday 19th January 2018
quotequote all
CJG98 said:
I think il keep an eye on it until it drops below the £8k mark....
If its well enough priced - which it seems to be - it could well be bought at the asking price by someone else....

I'd be contacting them with an offer and see how they respond - if you're keen on it, of course.

daemon

35,724 posts

196 months

Friday 19th January 2018
quotequote all
CJG98 said:
Good point about the seat wear! Didn’t notice it.
Neither the seat wear nor the gear knob wear are irrepairable. A new gear knob would be an easy fit and there are plenty of companies who could do a repair to the seat by stripping the seat and replacing the worn panel. £80ish would probably sort it.

Rockster

1,508 posts

159 months

Friday 19th January 2018
quotequote all
CJG98 said:
Was having a look around at the new F Minis as an upgrade to my Polo. Budget is around £8000 so was looking at 2014ish Cooper D’s ex fleet with 40-60000 Miles.

To my surprise a lovely dark green 2014 64 plate Cooper S pops up for just over £8000. Then I realise it has nearly 130,000 miles on it... :/ .

I’m not too bothered about high Mileage as long as it has been looked after. It passed its MOT in August with 0 advisory’s, however the gear stick looks very worn in the pictures (potentially thrashed around?)

My main concern is on my Polo the service intervals are every 10000 Miles/1 year, I’m not sure what the intervals are for the Mini, but that means if the Mini has the same intervals as the Polo it would’ve been serviced at least 10 times or every 2-3 months... and it’s only 2 years old! OR it’s just been serviced by the year regardless of the miles (65000/year) which seems rather excessive! My Polo is 7 years old and has only 60k Miles. How are these F Series Cooper S’ reliability wise?

What do you think? Anyone got experience with these high mileage “young” cars and how they are serviced? Asking on here before bothering the dealer.

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2018...
No big miles experienced with my new JCW, but just got rid of a big miles (317K) 2002 Boxster.

130K miles ain't that many miles provided the engine (and the transmission) fluids have been serviced on schedule.

You can tell a lot about the car with a good test ride then test drive. IOWs, you have to experience the car in its natural state: on the road being driven like you intend to use the car.

At 130K miles if the engine starts up promptly, and during cold idle there are no abnormal sounds, ticks, knocks, and none at any other times either, and "passes" a road test with flying colors the engine's in good shape.

While an engine might run at 130K miles the odds are if it has not been taken care of it will provide you with signs that it is not the engine you want to own.

My advice is to visit the car cold, be sure all warning lights come on then go off at cold engine start. Let the engine idle while you walk around the car checking body panel paint, gaps, tire age, wear, brake wear, and looking into the radiator ducts for any signs fo leaks (the A/C condenser probably sits ahead of the radiator but look anyway).

But keep an ear tuned to how the engine sounds. After some minutes of idling have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride. The route should be chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. Along with city stop/go and boulevar and highway high speed driving a hard acceleration or two -- once the engine is up to temperature -- is called for. The engine should pull strong and smooth from idle to red line and afterwards resume normal operation with no signs of any distress.

After the test ride switch seats and you drive the car over the same route and drive the car the same way.

There should be no smoking from the engine upon taking off from a stop, when upshifting or downshifting or any other times.

The coolant temperature should remain rather stable. Oh, and the A/C should be off as being on runs the radiator fan and this can help mask an engine with a cooling problem.

If after all the above if you still like the car give it a thorough used car check out. Assume nothing works until you confirm it does.

If possible then the car should be lifted up and inspected for any leak sign. This check comes after the test ride/drive which should have the engine running maybe an hour. This should be plenty of time for any leak to manifest leak sign.

The usual rule is to have 10% of a used car's purchase price in reserve just in case. With a "high miles" car you might want to up this to 15% even 20%. While your checkout finds nothing wrong a water pump a fuel pump can go bad at any time. What's a new water pump cost? Or a new fuel pump? You want to have at least this much money set aside, in reserve.

Services might be current but try to find out. If the oil on the disptick is dark assume an oil/filter service is due. Consult the factory service schedule to know what services could be due at 130K miles or maybe at 120K miles. If there is no paper proof these have been done budget for these. Adjust your offer price downward accordingly.

Happy shopping.

CJG98

Original Poster:

468 posts

77 months

Friday 19th January 2018
quotequote all
Rockster said:
No big miles experienced with my new JCW, but just got rid of a big miles (317K) 2002 Boxster.

130K miles ain't that many miles provided the engine (and the transmission) fluids have been serviced on schedule.

You can tell a lot about the car with a good test ride then test drive. IOWs, you have to experience the car in its natural state: on the road being driven like you intend to use the car.

At 130K miles if the engine starts up promptly, and during cold idle there are no abnormal sounds, ticks, knocks, and none at any other times either, and "passes" a road test with flying colors the engine's in good shape.

While an engine might run at 130K miles the odds are if it has not been taken care of it will provide you with signs that it is not the engine you want to own.

My advice is to visit the car cold, be sure all warning lights come on then go off at cold engine start. Let the engine idle while you walk around the car checking body panel paint, gaps, tire age, wear, brake wear, and looking into the radiator ducts for any signs fo leaks (the A/C condenser probably sits ahead of the radiator but look anyway).

But keep an ear tuned to how the engine sounds. After some minutes of idling have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride. The route should be chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. Along with city stop/go and boulevar and highway high speed driving a hard acceleration or two -- once the engine is up to temperature -- is called for. The engine should pull strong and smooth from idle to red line and afterwards resume normal operation with no signs of any distress.

After the test ride switch seats and you drive the car over the same route and drive the car the same way.

There should be no smoking from the engine upon taking off from a stop, when upshifting or downshifting or any other times.

The coolant temperature should remain rather stable. Oh, and the A/C should be off as being on runs the radiator fan and this can help mask an engine with a cooling problem.

If after all the above if you still like the car give it a thorough used car check out. Assume nothing works until you confirm it does.

If possible then the car should be lifted up and inspected for any leak sign. This check comes after the test ride/drive which should have the engine running maybe an hour. This should be plenty of time for any leak to manifest leak sign.

The usual rule is to have 10% of a used car's purchase price in reserve just in case. With a "high miles" car you might want to up this to 15% even 20%. While your checkout finds nothing wrong a water pump a fuel pump can go bad at any time. What's a new water pump cost? Or a new fuel pump? You want to have at least this much money set aside, in reserve.

Services might be current but try to find out. If the oil on the disptick is dark assume an oil/filter service is due. Consult the factory service schedule to know what services could be due at 130K miles or maybe at 120K miles. If there is no paper proof these have been done budget for these. Adjust your offer price downward accordingly.

Happy shopping.
Thank You for that, very helpful! I’m definitely going to keep my eye on it. Truly love the look of it!

Need to start shopping around for insurance if I do decide to go ahead... difficult for a 19 year old with 2 years NCD on a Cooper S..! Fingers crossed all goes well.

Rockster

1,508 posts

159 months

Friday 19th January 2018
quotequote all
Deleted. Duplicate post.

Edited by Rockster on Saturday 20th January 16:20

steve-5snwi

8,592 posts

92 months

Friday 19th January 2018
quotequote all
That will go within a few days, if your serious give them a call, offer £8000 and say you will put a deposit there and then which is refundable upon viewing.

wlondoner

78 posts

94 months

Friday 19th January 2018
quotequote all
I'm surprised it's not gone already maybe people are waiting for next week = pay day

As I said in previous post get them to list all the service history see what it's got.

Bargain car I would buy it myself if i didn't already have a F56

daemon

35,724 posts

196 months

Friday 19th January 2018
quotequote all
wlondoner said:
I'm surprised it's not gone already maybe people are waiting for next week = pay day

As I said in previous post get them to list all the service history see what it's got.

Bargain car I would buy it myself if i didn't already have a F56
steve-5snwi said:
That will go within a few days, if your serious give them a call, offer £8000 and say you will put a deposit there and then which is refundable upon viewing.
+1

If the service history stacks up, thats car will go very quickly....

Dolf Stoppard

1,318 posts

121 months

Saturday 20th January 2018
quotequote all
Do you have the budget for high running costs?

I ask this, because I sense you don't, and it's not going to have the running costs of any other Cooper S. It's going to have the running costs of a car with 130k miles. Even if certain components have already been replaced, they're probably going to need replacing again.

Sorry if this sounds negative, but cheap cars do not always equal cheap running costs.

CJG98

Original Poster:

468 posts

77 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
Dolf Stoppard said:
Do you have the budget for high running costs?

I ask this, because I sense you don't, and it's not going to have the running costs of any other Cooper S. It's going to have the running costs of a car with 130k miles. Even if certain components have already been replaced, they're probably going to need replacing again.

Sorry if this sounds negative, but cheap cars do not always equal cheap running costs.
Sorry I don’t really get what you mean here, I’m fine with replacing things that wear down eg Clutches, Flywheels, Brakes, Tyres etc but I will check the condition of these before buying. It’s not like any of these “replaced” parts are going to wear down any sooner because it’s high mileage, I only do 10k miles a year. The car comes with a 3 month warranty anyway which will cover any major parts such as the Turbo or Gearbox.

If the car has been well looked after and serviced I don’t think it should be a problem. My guess is it’s sat cruising at 70mph on a motorway most of its life?


daemon

35,724 posts

196 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
Dolf Stoppard said:
Do you have the budget for high running costs?

I ask this, because I sense you don't, and it's not going to have the running costs of any other Cooper S. It's going to have the running costs of a car with 130k miles. Even if certain components have already been replaced, they're probably going to need replacing again.

Sorry if this sounds negative, but cheap cars do not always equal cheap running costs.
Wholly agree.

It will require more maintenance and that should be factored in

Rockster

1,508 posts

159 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
quotequote all
CJG98 said:
Sorry I don’t really get what you mean here, I’m fine with replacing things that wear down eg Clutches, Flywheels, Brakes, Tyres etc but I will check the condition of these before buying. It’s not like any of these “replaced” parts are going to wear down any sooner because it’s high mileage, I only do 10k miles a year. The car comes with a 3 month warranty anyway which will cover any major parts such as the Turbo or Gearbox.

If the car has been well looked after and serviced I don’t think it should be a problem. My guess is it’s sat cruising at 70mph on a motorway most of its life?
A point I want to make is that as the miles accumulate you might be surprised at what items become wear items.

Here's some kind of run down with what I expeirenced with my Boxster.

Rear main seal. This done under the 4 year, 50K mile warranty.

Rear wheel bearing.

I never replaced a clutch in 317K miles (but on the last drive it was clear while the clutch wasn't slipping it was time to replace it: Pedal pressure was very high and the engagement point very high too).

Never replaced coils (at least in the Boxster).

Replaced the O2 sensors a couple of times, the last time at 305K miles.

Had a noisy converter (road debris struck it and caused the brick to become loose) that I finally got tired of hearing knocking when cold and buzzing when hot. Sourced two used exhaust manifolds which come with converter for $495/each. New ones run over $1000 each.

Replaced a windshield and the 2nd one was very heavily pitted to the point I thought I needed new glasses until I bought new cars with clear windshields.

The Boxster is a convertible/roadster. Replaced the plastic window in the soft top. Then years later had to replace the top. Think your car is a hard top and if so nevermind...

Had a CV boot tear. Both axles removed and cleaned and inspected and found ok so bearings repacked with fresh grease and new boots fitted and axles put back into service. About 60K miles ago and they were fine.

Front hood and rear trunk gas struts wore out.

Passenger side door lock controller started acting up. Replaced. Something in the driver side door had to be replaced. Then something else in the passenger door. Then both doors needed new membranes to keep the water out of the dry side of door. Then both doors needed new window regulators.

Ignition switch. Even with no heavy key chain hanging down the switch wore out.

Brake light, clutch interlock, cruise control disable switches all had to be replaced. If one wears out acts up all should be replaced or you'll be under the dash all the time.

Water pump. Fuel pump. And both were replaced some time ago that they were coming up on about the same miles the original ones failed at.

Coolant tank cap leaked and was replaced.

Some years later the coolant tank developed a leak and was replaced.

Radiator fan motor ballast resister.

Biggie? At around 240K miles the passenger side VarioCam solenoid/actuator had to be replaced. $3K+ job.

What else? Oh, 3 AOS (air/oil separators). Two oil tube filler caps. They leak eventually. Gas cap tether broke and I bought a new cap with a new tether.

MAF.

At least one key's electrical circuit -- the part that sends the signal to unlock/lock the doors -- died and the key had to be replaced.

Spark plug tube o-rings.

Of course there were 5K mile oil/filter services, other fluid serviced done on schedule. Spark plugs. Engine air filter. Cabin air filter. Brakes. Tires. An alignment if tire wear indicated a need, which was rare.

A car can go big miles but it won't get there without needing some parts replaced.

Might close with this: the Porsche dealer parts department didn't discount parts/supply prices because of the car's age. (I did get a 15% discount because of my Porsche Club membership.) Service department charged the same rate ($160/hour) to work on my Boxster as it did to work on another customer's 918 (a $1M car). 'course, a "tune up" on 918 car required 60 hours labor. Ouch!

AB

16,969 posts

194 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
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My wife's 15 plate is on about 40k miles so nothing like this one you are looking at but it genuinely drives like it's brand new. Not a single rattle.

Hers is a chili media pack car so every extra you could really need in a car and I agree with what someone said above, it's like a mini BMW which I guess in unsurprising... I'd say it feels better put together than my 2015 BMW with 15k less miles!

CarsOrBikes

1,135 posts

183 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
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just accept it's actually worth 6, and that it'll always be worth a lot less than others and take a lot longer to sell. Too many drivers are precious over mileage.

They need to look to other countries examples, who often pay more for their cars. Don't wait for the factory service interval on any car out there at the moment, if you halved the intervals cars could last so much longer. Even the service books or manuals tell you that's a minimum requirement and still people exceed even that. Crazy.

If that was me I'd buy it and take a lot of it apart to check/recondition it but that's unrealistic for most.