The PH Gun Cabinet - Shooting Matters

[red_slr]

As for the keys I have had the "trick question" only once and my reply was... thought I am not meant to tell you.... to which the FEO said err well yes should I just put on person? I replied... its a secret.... she said yeah I will just put on person.

[FurtiveFreddy]

red_slr said:

Yep cabinets have to physically be inspected at:

Grant
Renewal
Change of address

Renewal is often just a "has anything changed?" phone call. They don't have time to visit everyone these days.

[aeropilot]

andyb28 said:

I live in Essex.

Aah.......that explains a lot.

Essex plod FET don't have the best reputation.

[red_slr]

FurtiveFreddy said:

red_slr said:

Yep cabinets have to physically be inspected at:

Grant
Renewal
Change of address

Renewal is often just a "has anything changed?" phone call. They don't have time to visit everyone these days.

I guess each area is different, every renewal has been a visit for me. Check SN of each firearm against new FAC, check cabinet security and ammo safes. FEO then reads out the special terms and reminded that breaching the terms is an offence and FAC then handed over and singed by me in front of FEO.

Variation it comes in the post no problems.

[Pesty]

andyb28 said:

red_slr said:

NO NO NO!

NEVER *EVER* GIVE ANYONE ACCESS TO YOUR KEYS.

Never disclose the location. Ever.

Oh, they were saying that they were keeping a key combination register in case something were to happen to me. My wife obviously doesn't have the key safe code.

It sounds like they are trying to trick you.

[jimmyjimjim]

Woohoo!

[alabbasi]

Are you in Texas? I'm looking for an FFL in Texas

[slow_poke]

Anyone tell me a good zero for a .270 Win shooting 130 grain bullets? i.e. how high at 100 yards to still drop a Red Deer out to 250/300 without having to hold over/under?

Cheers.

[red_slr]

slow_poke said:

Anyone tell me a good zero for a .270 Win shooting 130 grain bullets? i.e. how high at 100 yards to still drop a Red Deer out to 250/300 without having to hold over/under?

Cheers.

I don't shoot .270 but my BC says for 300yrd zero using 130s with BC of .46 you need a 2.88 MOA come up at 100 yards for a 300 yard zero. So maybe start at 3 MOA and then verify at 300.

I don't hunt but I think its unusual to zero for 300. I have helped a few people zero and they normally zero at 100 or 200.

[Halb]

For any of you who might need to carry your nappies along with your glock. Don't like the idea of that one strap though, creates such an imbalance

Maxpedition Sitka Gearslinger Review, Off Body CCW, Dad Tips
hard2hurt
https://youtu.be/3_up34NPJvw

[FurtiveFreddy]

Halb said:

For any of you who might need to carry your nappies along with your glock. Don't like the idea of that one strap though, creates such an imbalance

Maxpedition Sitka Gearslinger Review, Off Body CCW, Dad Tips
hard2hurt
https://youtu.be/3_up34NPJvw

I was at a competition a few years ago where there was a side match which involved putting a bag like that on your back with a Glock in it and you had to bring it round to the front, unzip it and fire a (thankfully, blank) round all against the clock.

It was actually quite slick to use once you'd had a couple of practise goes. I managed it in about 2.5 seconds but I seem to remember the winning time was about 1.5

[slow_poke]

red_slr said:

slow_poke said:

Anyone tell me a good zero for a .270 Win shooting 130 grain bullets? i.e. how high at 100 yards to still drop a Red Deer out to 250/300 without having to hold over/under?

Cheers.

I don't shoot .270 but my BC says for 300yrd zero using 130s with BC of .46 you need a 2.88 MOA come up at 100 yards for a 300 yard zero. So maybe start at 3 MOA and then verify at 300.

I don't hunt but I think its unusual to zero for 300. I have helped a few people zero and they normally zero at 100 or 200.

Thanks, interesting. But it's not s 300 yard zero as such. If it's 2.5" high at 100 say, I want it to drop into the killbox at 250/300 without holding over or under.

[red_slr]

slow_poke said:

red_slr said:

slow_poke said:

Anyone tell me a good zero for a .270 Win shooting 130 grain bullets? i.e. how high at 100 yards to still drop a Red Deer out to 250/300 without having to hold over/under?

Cheers.

I don't shoot .270 but my BC says for 300yrd zero using 130s with BC of .46 you need a 2.88 MOA come up at 100 yards for a 300 yard zero. So maybe start at 3 MOA and then verify at 300.

I don't hunt but I think its unusual to zero for 300. I have helped a few people zero and they normally zero at 100 or 200.

Thanks, interesting. But it's not s 300 yard zero as such. If it's 2.5" high at 100 say, I want it to drop into the killbox at 250/300 without holding over or under.

Not sure I follow TBH but I would verify on paper before going in the field. HTH.

[jimmyjimjim]

alabbasi said:

Are you in Texas? I'm looking for an FFL in Texas

Unfortunately, it's a type 3, not a class 3.

What that means is that it's a Curio and Relic licence - if there's something that's more than 50 years old, that isn't a national firearms act item, (i.e. isn't full auto, short barreled or a cannon, etc), I can buy direct from a dealer and get it shipped to my door without paying a transfer fee.

So, Enfield No.4 Mk1, Mauser K, SKS, garand, etc, can all be ordered online and shipped straight to me.

[slow_poke]

red_slr said:

slow_poke said:

red_slr said:

slow_poke said:

Anyone tell me a good zero for a .270 Win shooting 130 grain bullets? i.e. how high at 100 yards to still drop a Red Deer out to 250/300 without having to hold over/under?

Cheers.

I don't shoot .270 but my BC says for 300yrd zero using 130s with BC of .46 you need a 2.88 MOA come up at 100 yards for a 300 yard zero. So maybe start at 3 MOA and then verify at 300.

I don't hunt but I think its unusual to zero for 300. I have helped a few people zero and they normally zero at 100 or 200.

Thanks, interesting. But it's not s 300 yard zero as such. If it's 2.5" high at 100 say, I want it to drop into the killbox at 250/300 without holding over or under.

Not sure I follow TBH but I would verify on paper before going in the field. HTH.

This kinda explains what i'm thinking about. i'm hoping for some first-hand experience from PH riflemen.

https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2014/2/4/t...

[aeropilot]

jimmyjimjim said:

alabbasi said:

Are you in Texas? I'm looking for an FFL in Texas

Unfortunately, it's a type 3, not a class 3.

What that means is that it's a Curio and Relic licence - if there's something that's more than 50 years old, that isn't a national firearms act item, (i.e. isn't full auto, short barreled or a cannon, etc), I can buy direct from a dealer and get it shipped to my door without paying a transfer fee.

So, Enfield No.4 Mk1, Mauser K, SKS, garand, etc, can all be ordered online and shipped straight to me.

So proper stuff then -

My list would start with.....

Lee-Enfield No.4T (or good repro)
Lee-Enfield No.5
M1 Carbine
M1 Garand
M1903A1
K98 (mid war date setup as a sniper repro)
G43

[jimmyjimjim]

No repro's. It has to be manufactured more than 50 years ago. Also not modified, so you can't have a Sporterized (or Bubbarized) K98.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Federal_Firearms_Lic...

The main point for me is the door to door shipping and the low cost - about the same as a single transfer fee. In fact, as you don't need an additional background check, buying even one rifle through a C&R licence is cheaper than going to the shop and doing so, though the initial hoop is a bit of a pain.

[jimmyjimjim]

aeropilot said:

Lee-Enfield No.4T (or good repro)
Lee-Enfield No.5
M1 Carbine
M1 Garand
M1903A1
K98 (mid war date setup as a sniper repro)
G43

Oddly enough, that's pretty much my list, too...add an SKS, maybe an early AK import.

[red_slr]

slow_poke said:

red_slr said:

slow_poke said:

red_slr said:

slow_poke said:

Anyone tell me a good zero for a .270 Win shooting 130 grain bullets? i.e. how high at 100 yards to still drop a Red Deer out to 250/300 without having to hold over/under?

Cheers.

I don't shoot .270 but my BC says for 300yrd zero using 130s with BC of .46 you need a 2.88 MOA come up at 100 yards for a 300 yard zero. So maybe start at 3 MOA and then verify at 300.

I don't hunt but I think its unusual to zero for 300. I have helped a few people zero and they normally zero at 100 or 200.

Thanks, interesting. But it's not s 300 yard zero as such. If it's 2.5" high at 100 say, I want it to drop into the killbox at 250/300 without holding over or under.

Not sure I follow TBH but I would verify on paper before going in the field. HTH.

This kinda explains what i'm thinking about. i'm hoping for some first-hand experience from PH riflemen.

https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2014/2/4/t...

Yes what you describe is very common, even in target shooting. A lot of target shooters will zero .223 at 50 yards for example to give them 50 AND 200 zero. (plus 300 is only a few MOA low). I personally have a 100 zero. I know my come ups at any given distance without having to think about it and they always go one direction past 100!

In 270 your 26 yard zero crosses over at 300 but at say 150 (which is a very common shot on deer I would have thought) you are 5-6MOA high. I dunno, in my world that's a lot - maybe that's good for you.

Zeros are a personal thing I guess and will very much depend on your intended use profile.

[aeropilot]

jimmyjimjim said:

No repro's. It has to be manufactured more than 50 years ago. Also not modified, so you can't have a Sporterized (or Bubbarized) K98.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Federal_Firearms_Lic...

I think you are misunderstanding my use of the word 'repro'.

The C&R wording allows for original configuration, so making a 'repro' 4T from a normal No.4 is allowed, as its still in the same configuration as a wartime 4T, its just not a 'real' T. But a real T if matching numbers etc., is 20 times the cost of a No.4, but the bits to make a good shooting repro sniper 4T can be had for a fraction of that....especially in the USA.
Same thing with the K98 sniper.
Same thing with the M1903A1.