Biking to work... for beginners
Discussion
Hi,
Due to an office move I'm considering riding to work. It will be 6 miles each way but my only experience of bikes comes from being a kid and just messing around on them. Does anybody have a suggestion as to what sort of bike would be best, and also is it worth looking on eBay/gumtree as I'm not looking to spend thousands on one?
What other bits of paraphernalia would I need and is it feasible in winter months? I'm office based with shower/changing facilities at work.
Thanks
Due to an office move I'm considering riding to work. It will be 6 miles each way but my only experience of bikes comes from being a kid and just messing around on them. Does anybody have a suggestion as to what sort of bike would be best, and also is it worth looking on eBay/gumtree as I'm not looking to spend thousands on one?
What other bits of paraphernalia would I need and is it feasible in winter months? I'm office based with shower/changing facilities at work.
Thanks
In reality almost any bike should be fine. The best choice though might depend on the route to work.
- Flat? Hilly?
- Roads? Towpaths? Cycle lanes?
- Urban? Rural?
loudlashadjuster said:
In reality almost any bike should be fine. The best choice though might depend on the route to work.
All main roads and city centre although there are some nice canals nearby that would be nice to explore on a weekend.- Flat? Hilly?
- Roads? Towpaths? Cycle lanes?
- Urban? Rural?
Winter doesn't sound too daunting then... hopefully!
tbh if its flat and nothing more than tarmac and canal paths, you don't really need more than a Decathlon boggo which is about £100.
Spend the same on lights, helmet, backpack and you're sorted.
No real need to spend more other than for the hell of it.
I use an old cheapy to ride to work, I keep the billion pound road bike for the weekends. Also means that should some scum come robbing, odds are yours won't get nicked first!
Spend the same on lights, helmet, backpack and you're sorted.
No real need to spend more other than for the hell of it.
I use an old cheapy to ride to work, I keep the billion pound road bike for the weekends. Also means that should some scum come robbing, odds are yours won't get nicked first!
Any reliable bike will be fine for that. Bikes like this are popular http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/hybrid-bikes...
I was given a £100 bike a while ago which I used when my other bike was broken. The list of things wrong with it after 100 miles was enough to write off the bike, so beware of really cheap stuff.
I was given a £100 bike a while ago which I used when my other bike was broken. The list of things wrong with it after 100 miles was enough to write off the bike, so beware of really cheap stuff.
Good on you for giving it a go. Once you get into it you'll never to back - it took me a year to get it - you have to deal with a British winter. Things that I've found really work for me:
- I use a hybrid bike, nothing fancy but you can get a bit more speed (than MTB) and wider tyres let you deal with pot holes, curbs etc. I also prefer the flat bar to drops, each to their own on that.
- Change your tyres to slicks and make sure they are puncture resistant. Without you'll pick up flats way more often that you think, a real PITA.
- Get a good windproof but breathable jacket. It'll deal with most rain unless its torrential. Personally I hate full water proofs as you really sweat. I prefer to get wet then dry off at home or work.
- My journey is 8 miles each way along roads, parks and tow paths. I don't have a shower at work, just use huggies wet wipes and plenty of deo. No complaints yet!
- Keep emergency pants, socks and shirts at work. You'll get caught out at some point, although going commando every now and again can be fun.
- Do your preparation the night before. It takes a while to get into a routine so having everything ready in the morning when you're not familiar with things helps.
- Don't get too hung up on Silly Commuter Racing. http://www.itsnotarace.org/
Good luck and enjoy.
- I use a hybrid bike, nothing fancy but you can get a bit more speed (than MTB) and wider tyres let you deal with pot holes, curbs etc. I also prefer the flat bar to drops, each to their own on that.
- Change your tyres to slicks and make sure they are puncture resistant. Without you'll pick up flats way more often that you think, a real PITA.
- Get a good windproof but breathable jacket. It'll deal with most rain unless its torrential. Personally I hate full water proofs as you really sweat. I prefer to get wet then dry off at home or work.
- My journey is 8 miles each way along roads, parks and tow paths. I don't have a shower at work, just use huggies wet wipes and plenty of deo. No complaints yet!
- Keep emergency pants, socks and shirts at work. You'll get caught out at some point, although going commando every now and again can be fun.
- Do your preparation the night before. It takes a while to get into a routine so having everything ready in the morning when you're not familiar with things helps.
- Don't get too hung up on Silly Commuter Racing. http://www.itsnotarace.org/
Good luck and enjoy.
I commute c.11km each way do a similar distance. I've been cycling it four days per week since December 2014 when I picked up a Cannondale CAADX cyclocross bike on the Cycle2Work scheme. So I think you could say I jumped in with both feet! We have bike storage, lockers and shower facilities so I go full Lycra with a 35L backpack. I leave a few bits at work where I can but largely get everything in each day.
Bike wise I added proper mudguards and changed from the original cyclocross oriented tyres to some 28mm Conti 4Seasons as all bar c.2km of my ride is on Tarmac road or cycle path. They've also proven more puncture resistant. The mud guards were the most worthwhile investment though!
Bike wise I added proper mudguards and changed from the original cyclocross oriented tyres to some 28mm Conti 4Seasons as all bar c.2km of my ride is on Tarmac road or cycle path. They've also proven more puncture resistant. The mud guards were the most worthwhile investment though!
My biggest problem doing this is that I hate riding my bike to work. The wind, the rain, the cold, the bumps, the sore arse, the potholes in the gutter. All crap. It's also very boring riding the same route every day.
I should ride more, but when you don't actually enjoy it and only do it because you think you should, or for fitness, it's really hard to keep going. I tend to last a week at a time.
I should ride more, but when you don't actually enjoy it and only do it because you think you should, or for fitness, it's really hard to keep going. I tend to last a week at a time.
RicharDC5 said:
Any reliable bike will be fine for that. Bikes like this are popular http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/hybrid-bikes...
I was given a £100 bike a while ago which I used when my other bike was broken. The list of things wrong with it after 100 miles was enough to write off the bike, so beware of really cheap stuff.
I was always under the impression you should spend around £250 - £300 (unless you get last years stock clearout) to get something with reasonably quality components, and to avoid bikes with any form of suspension. 11 years ago I purchased a similar price point ridgeback, and have found it very reliable, its quite the triggers broom now, but that's from daily use in all weathers, I've been very pleased with it, although it has now been retired. I was given a £100 bike a while ago which I used when my other bike was broken. The list of things wrong with it after 100 miles was enough to write off the bike, so beware of really cheap stuff.
If you end up with a bike thats heavy, always broken, dodgy gear changes, brakes rubbing, its just going to discourage you from riding it.
For 6 miles each way on roads I would say -
£3-400 hybrid (no front fork, don't be too concerned about disc brakes either, so nice and light)
PROPER FULL LENGTH MUDGUARDS. Really can't stress these enough.
The most powerful USB rechargeable lights you can afford. Seriously, unless also ride a motorbike you don't have much idea just how blind/ignorant/dangerous a lot of car drives are.
The best waterproof jacket and trousers you can afford. Decent quality waterproof gear can make all the difference between a still enjoyable ride and jacking it in at the first sign of poor weather.
Other bits -
Build up the mileage. I started out 1 day a week, then 2 etc.
Unless you are doing it health or financial reasons, try and find ways of making it more enjoyable. If you don't want to ride in, don't. In my case (riding mostly for health reasons, long story) I take a longer, hillier and muddier route that keeps me off most of the roads, has bunnies hopping around etc because it is more pleasant. I also play at beating my Strava segment times and slowly creeping up the leaderboards to keep it interesting.
£3-400 hybrid (no front fork, don't be too concerned about disc brakes either, so nice and light)
PROPER FULL LENGTH MUDGUARDS. Really can't stress these enough.
The most powerful USB rechargeable lights you can afford. Seriously, unless also ride a motorbike you don't have much idea just how blind/ignorant/dangerous a lot of car drives are.
The best waterproof jacket and trousers you can afford. Decent quality waterproof gear can make all the difference between a still enjoyable ride and jacking it in at the first sign of poor weather.
Other bits -
Build up the mileage. I started out 1 day a week, then 2 etc.
Unless you are doing it health or financial reasons, try and find ways of making it more enjoyable. If you don't want to ride in, don't. In my case (riding mostly for health reasons, long story) I take a longer, hillier and muddier route that keeps me off most of the roads, has bunnies hopping around etc because it is more pleasant. I also play at beating my Strava segment times and slowly creeping up the leaderboards to keep it interesting.
Echoing what most of the people on here have said
I'd go for:
A hybrid bike on slick tyres with no suspension and full mudguards
A waterproof breathable jacket. A bike-specific one is better as it has a longer back to stop your lower back getting cold and wet
Gloves. Get good winter ones (I like the lobster-claw ones when it gets really cold). Nothing worse than cold hands
A saddlepack with a couple of allen keys, spare inner tube, tyre levers and two or three quid in change for emergencies.
A mini pump and water bottle
A waterproof backpack to carry your work clothes/sandwiches in
Clipless pedals are overkill, but a pair of old-fashioned toe clips might help.
I wouldn't bother with waterproof trousers. They flap around a lot and make you sweat a lot too. I wear shorts or, if its really cold, some leggings. They will dry during the day if they get wet, ready for the ride home.
Unless you are planning on practicing your sprints, you won't need a shower after 6 miles. Just keep some unscented wet wipes and a can of deodorant at work.
I'd go for:
A hybrid bike on slick tyres with no suspension and full mudguards
A waterproof breathable jacket. A bike-specific one is better as it has a longer back to stop your lower back getting cold and wet
Gloves. Get good winter ones (I like the lobster-claw ones when it gets really cold). Nothing worse than cold hands
A saddlepack with a couple of allen keys, spare inner tube, tyre levers and two or three quid in change for emergencies.
A mini pump and water bottle
A waterproof backpack to carry your work clothes/sandwiches in
Clipless pedals are overkill, but a pair of old-fashioned toe clips might help.
I wouldn't bother with waterproof trousers. They flap around a lot and make you sweat a lot too. I wear shorts or, if its really cold, some leggings. They will dry during the day if they get wet, ready for the ride home.
Unless you are planning on practicing your sprints, you won't need a shower after 6 miles. Just keep some unscented wet wipes and a can of deodorant at work.
I agree 100% with what boyse7en said above.
Only thing I'd say is standard mtb pedals are all you need, and a pair of trainers.
I tend to leave my jeans/trousers at work most of the week when I commute, to reduce the luggage load and allow me to fit more lunch in my bag (you get hungrier when commuting on a bicycle I find) and I've only used my waterproof trousers when really, really wet or cold/wet.
Stick to a hybrid with touring tyres, no suspension, and you'll have a dependable and fast commuter.
Only thing I'd say is standard mtb pedals are all you need, and a pair of trainers.
I tend to leave my jeans/trousers at work most of the week when I commute, to reduce the luggage load and allow me to fit more lunch in my bag (you get hungrier when commuting on a bicycle I find) and I've only used my waterproof trousers when really, really wet or cold/wet.
Stick to a hybrid with touring tyres, no suspension, and you'll have a dependable and fast commuter.
Try to make life easy for yourself, so for the bike:
- It doesn't need to be anything special, but if buying new, you want to be spending about £350 minimum, or the bits will wear out too quickly. Avoid anything that complicates from a standard bike, such as suspension.
- Keep the drivetrain in relatively good nick, and the tyres well pumped up. (Treat the max pressure on the tyres as a target.)
- Have the seat positioned correctly. (Deserves another post, or ask a friend.)
For yourself, be comfortable:
- Mudguards are a must.
- Dry feet really help your mental state, consider how you will achieve this.
- Padded shorts, as your ass is important.
- The right gloves for the season.
Be safe, be seen:
- Always wear a helmet and gloves.
- Lights are cheap, batteries are cheap, not being seen hurts.
- No earphones, be aware. (Others may disagree.)
- Aldi, Lidl and Decathlon do cheap, cheerful and bright clothing for very little money. Have plenty, and be bright.
For being a commuter:
- If you can take a week's work of stuff in on a Mon and back on a Fri, and have no backpack the rest of the time, you'll be happier.
- Find the joy in doing it. If this means taking a short detour for a favourite bit of road each day, do it. It's worth getting up earlier.
- Log it. Use whatever method you like, Strava, etc, but do log it, and see how much you do. You'll be surprised how quickly it adds up.
- Weigh yourself before. Weigh yourself in September. Be impressed.
- It doesn't need to be anything special, but if buying new, you want to be spending about £350 minimum, or the bits will wear out too quickly. Avoid anything that complicates from a standard bike, such as suspension.
- Keep the drivetrain in relatively good nick, and the tyres well pumped up. (Treat the max pressure on the tyres as a target.)
- Have the seat positioned correctly. (Deserves another post, or ask a friend.)
For yourself, be comfortable:
- Mudguards are a must.
- Dry feet really help your mental state, consider how you will achieve this.
- Padded shorts, as your ass is important.
- The right gloves for the season.
Be safe, be seen:
- Always wear a helmet and gloves.
- Lights are cheap, batteries are cheap, not being seen hurts.
- No earphones, be aware. (Others may disagree.)
- Aldi, Lidl and Decathlon do cheap, cheerful and bright clothing for very little money. Have plenty, and be bright.
For being a commuter:
- If you can take a week's work of stuff in on a Mon and back on a Fri, and have no backpack the rest of the time, you'll be happier.
- Find the joy in doing it. If this means taking a short detour for a favourite bit of road each day, do it. It's worth getting up earlier.
- Log it. Use whatever method you like, Strava, etc, but do log it, and see how much you do. You'll be surprised how quickly it adds up.
- Weigh yourself before. Weigh yourself in September. Be impressed.
After 7 or 8 years of doing it across London year-round my formula is
- MTB on puncture-proof slicks - you can hammer over broken tarmac, drain covers and the odd kerb
- Discs - a revelation when I switched over
- Good breathable Gore shell with up to three layers underneath.
- Baggies
- Decent gloves and skull warmer for when it gets really cold
- Some bright LEDs' backed up with something battery-powered for when the rechargables run out
I bought my bike lightly-used off eBay for about £500 when it retailed north of £850. The reason I went for that is that I wanted air forks. If you go hybrid I'd strongly suggest you look at carbon forks and fattish (puncture-proof) slicks as they take a lot of the chatter out.
And if you think that slows you down (a) you're not on the TDF (b) it's more comfortable and (c) the extra weight and resistance slows you down and (d) your wheels stay true, you don't get punctures.
Other formulae are available.
- MTB on puncture-proof slicks - you can hammer over broken tarmac, drain covers and the odd kerb
- Discs - a revelation when I switched over
- Good breathable Gore shell with up to three layers underneath.
- Baggies
- Decent gloves and skull warmer for when it gets really cold
- Some bright LEDs' backed up with something battery-powered for when the rechargables run out
I bought my bike lightly-used off eBay for about £500 when it retailed north of £850. The reason I went for that is that I wanted air forks. If you go hybrid I'd strongly suggest you look at carbon forks and fattish (puncture-proof) slicks as they take a lot of the chatter out.
And if you think that slows you down (a) you're not on the TDF (b) it's more comfortable and (c) the extra weight and resistance slows you down and (d) your wheels stay true, you don't get punctures.
Other formulae are available.
Loads of sound advice, to which I would add:
-get a hub dynamo and LED lights, no more charging/pissing about with batteries
-use a rear rack and panniers, let the bike take the weight, not your back
-the extra hand positions that drop handlebars offer are very welcome
-a Brooks B-17 leather saddle, once broken in, is a beautiful thing.
-I use a handbuilt rear wheel (it wasn't expensive) and wouldn't go back to a machine-built one
-start thinking about how you're going to do your own maintenance as 60 miles / week in all weathers will mean the components will take a hammering, bikes are easy to wrench on with the correct tools.
-avoid anything with a press-fit bottom bracket. Square-taper Shimano is your friend for a commuter bike.
-get a hub dynamo and LED lights, no more charging/pissing about with batteries
-use a rear rack and panniers, let the bike take the weight, not your back
-the extra hand positions that drop handlebars offer are very welcome
-a Brooks B-17 leather saddle, once broken in, is a beautiful thing.
-I use a handbuilt rear wheel (it wasn't expensive) and wouldn't go back to a machine-built one
-start thinking about how you're going to do your own maintenance as 60 miles / week in all weathers will mean the components will take a hammering, bikes are easy to wrench on with the correct tools.
-avoid anything with a press-fit bottom bracket. Square-taper Shimano is your friend for a commuter bike.
I took a slightly different approach to most on here...
I had a train in the middle of my similar length commute, so I was restricted to a folding bike. I did this for around a year whilst saving money to get married. The only reason I stopped is that the trains are too unreliable and infrequent for my very changeable working hours.
I bought a 1980s folding bike from a colleague for £40, I changed all the brake/gear cables, tyres and added a dynamo hub and dynamo lights. It already had a hub gear and full mudguards.
I commuted in my work gear and layered up depending on the weather, mountain warehouse do a great jacket that I would put a different thickness of jumper underneath. 3 miles wasn't long enough for me to get sweaty. For me good waterproof shoes, a range of gloves and hats to go underneath my helmet were what I needed to stay warm. It's amazing how rarely it rains heavily enough for you to get wet, plus of course getting wet on the way home really isn't a problem.
Having a comfortable and good quality waterproof rucksack was key.
I occasionally ride my whole commute (40 miles round trip on unlit country lanes) and for this I lycra up but I my opinion it's not necessary for a short commute. Low maintenance is the key if you're riding every day, that's where the dynamo hub/lights and hub gearing come into their own.
For me the other important thing to consider is how you ride... You are squashier than the big metal boxes around you, overtake where you can be seen (again in my opinion NEVER ride down the left hand side of anyone), if someone tries to kill you then get safe, laugh and then concentrate, they probably didn't mean it and it won't help to get angry. Have fun slip streaming stuff at 30mph but do it safely! Get confident at looking over your shoulder and do it regularly, be aware of what's going on around you. Don't be too close to a car in front of you when you look over your shoulder (that was a lesson I nearly learned the painful way but just avoided).
I had a train in the middle of my similar length commute, so I was restricted to a folding bike. I did this for around a year whilst saving money to get married. The only reason I stopped is that the trains are too unreliable and infrequent for my very changeable working hours.
I bought a 1980s folding bike from a colleague for £40, I changed all the brake/gear cables, tyres and added a dynamo hub and dynamo lights. It already had a hub gear and full mudguards.
I commuted in my work gear and layered up depending on the weather, mountain warehouse do a great jacket that I would put a different thickness of jumper underneath. 3 miles wasn't long enough for me to get sweaty. For me good waterproof shoes, a range of gloves and hats to go underneath my helmet were what I needed to stay warm. It's amazing how rarely it rains heavily enough for you to get wet, plus of course getting wet on the way home really isn't a problem.
Having a comfortable and good quality waterproof rucksack was key.
I occasionally ride my whole commute (40 miles round trip on unlit country lanes) and for this I lycra up but I my opinion it's not necessary for a short commute. Low maintenance is the key if you're riding every day, that's where the dynamo hub/lights and hub gearing come into their own.
For me the other important thing to consider is how you ride... You are squashier than the big metal boxes around you, overtake where you can be seen (again in my opinion NEVER ride down the left hand side of anyone), if someone tries to kill you then get safe, laugh and then concentrate, they probably didn't mean it and it won't help to get angry. Have fun slip streaming stuff at 30mph but do it safely! Get confident at looking over your shoulder and do it regularly, be aware of what's going on around you. Don't be too close to a car in front of you when you look over your shoulder (that was a lesson I nearly learned the painful way but just avoided).
Benrad said:
For me the other important thing to consider is how you ride... You are squashier than the big metal boxes around you, overtake where you can be seen (again in my opinion NEVER ride down the left hand side of anyone), if someone tries to kill you then get safe, laugh and then concentrate, they probably didn't mean it and it won't help to get angry. Have fun slip streaming stuff at 30mph but do it safely! Get confident at looking over your shoulder and do it regularly, be aware of what's going on around you. Don't be too close to a car in front of you when you look over your shoulder (that was a lesson I nearly learned the painful way but just avoided).
This is a really good point. Given the vitriol that can exist towards cyclists, I think it's important to be courteous and follow basic road rules such as:- Don't jump red lights.
- Don't bother forcing yourself past a couple of cars at a set of lights when you know they are going to overtake you on green.
- Thank people if they let you in/out.
- Use your bell to let slower cyclists, pedestrians, joggers, dog walkers know you are there when in the park or on the canal.
- Don't ride on pavements, jump between road and pavement.
- Give busses, lorries, caravans etc a very wide berth at lights and junctions - don't pass on the left.
- Don't be afraid to hold your own on the road when necessary, but on faster roads pull over and let traffic past.
- Always look behind you before making a move and don't be afraid to use your arms to tell other motorists what you're going to do!
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