Road Bikes - Disc or Not
Discussion
I've recently built up a winter bike with discs that I've ended up using for the last 6 weeks or so. Very impressed with the braking power and control (and I've not even ridden it in the wet) BUT I hate the size of the hoods which is obviously bigger due to the hydraulic reservoir! I ride a lot with my hands 'holding' the protrusion of the hoods in an aero position, and for me, it is no way near as comfortable as normal sti's. I'm hoping to build up a new summer/race bike next year and this may be a factor for whether I go rim or disc......
This reads like an MTB forum in 2002/3.
We (MTBers) don't really care about weight or aero but that aside there is NOTHING a rim brake does better than a hydraulic disc brake.
I guess riders who've never tried a disc braked MTB might have the same worries we had back then,
Being cut in half by the disc, they're not razor blades, but they can get hot in extreme use, you're more likely to be lightly burnt by a disc rather than cut, but you really need looong downhill sections when you're dragging the brake constantly to cause that and it makes them very noisy and unreliable when you do.
Massive amounts of uncontrollable stopping power that will have you over the bars the moment you have a little panic brake, truth is you can lock a wheel with either kind easily enough, but hydraulic brakes offer far, far more feel, couple that will needing to use a lot less pressure on the lever you get so much more control.
Another myths I heard at the time was they cause too much torque on one fork leg and damage or cause it to bend and have you steering into the hedgerow without warning. It doesn't work like that.
Couple all that with the other benefits available to frame designers and I can't think of a reason why you wouldn't want them.
We (MTBers) don't really care about weight or aero but that aside there is NOTHING a rim brake does better than a hydraulic disc brake.
I guess riders who've never tried a disc braked MTB might have the same worries we had back then,
Being cut in half by the disc, they're not razor blades, but they can get hot in extreme use, you're more likely to be lightly burnt by a disc rather than cut, but you really need looong downhill sections when you're dragging the brake constantly to cause that and it makes them very noisy and unreliable when you do.
Massive amounts of uncontrollable stopping power that will have you over the bars the moment you have a little panic brake, truth is you can lock a wheel with either kind easily enough, but hydraulic brakes offer far, far more feel, couple that will needing to use a lot less pressure on the lever you get so much more control.
Another myths I heard at the time was they cause too much torque on one fork leg and damage or cause it to bend and have you steering into the hedgerow without warning. It doesn't work like that.
Couple all that with the other benefits available to frame designers and I can't think of a reason why you wouldn't want them.
Gruffy said:
bakerstreet said:
I shudder to think what carbon wheels are like in the wet with normal caliper brakes.
Mine are comical. Much prefer my rim brakes on my summer bike to the discs on my winter bike in all but torrential downpours.
Just don't think you get the extra performance promised but you do get the extra weight.
When I changed my summer bike last year I looked again at discs but still preferred the rims
Others will undoubtedly disagree.
Just don't think you get the extra performance promised but you do get the extra weight.
When I changed my summer bike last year I looked again at discs but still preferred the rims
Others will undoubtedly disagree.
dantournay said:
Discs every time. Perform better, look better, easier to maintain and won't trash my carbon rims.
I'm looking at getting a TT bike for triathlon. Holding off for the next season or so until they become standard fit on something like a Scott Plasma, Canyon Speedmax or Argon 18 E119.
I'd never go back to rim brakes given the choice
There seem to be more and more disc brake TT/Tri bikes now hydraulic levers are available. But it does seem slow going. I really like the look of BMC’s new bike. Cannondale don’t seem to sell their Super Slice disc for whatever reason. I’m surprised Canyon, Scott and Giant haven’t gone their yet given they all have nice disc brake aerobikes. Hopefully soon! Same for wheels too. Disc brake disc wheels (that won’t get confusing at all...) are creeping onto the market. I think Zipp do one but possibly not tubeless yet. Enve apparently has one coming for 2019.I'm looking at getting a TT bike for triathlon. Holding off for the next season or so until they become standard fit on something like a Scott Plasma, Canyon Speedmax or Argon 18 E119.
I'd never go back to rim brakes given the choice
curlyks2 said:
Barchettaman said:
Ultimately it’s the contact patch of the tyre that is the limiting factor.
This.Any brake that is capable of locking the wheel(s) can do the job. If you prefer the feel of rim brakes then go for it; if you prefer the feel of disc brakes then go for it.
Before I got discs for my commute, on rainy days, I'd have to clean the rims when I got in, and again when I got home. If it hadn't rained for a while, I'd sometimes even have to clean the f
king things on the way in or out as well!Since getting discs, I've not had to clean them once. I also get far, far more wear out of a set of pads than I ever did out of caliper pads.
Kermit power said:
I suggest you don't leave it too long before buying your last ever road bike then! 
People used to say that V-brakes were all you needed on a mountain bike. You'd struggle to find anything more expensive than a Halfords £99 special with anything other than disc brakes in the MTB world now, and I doubt road bikes will be all that far behind.
Thing is I don`t care about them outperforming rim brakes. I don`t want them on my road bikes.People used to say that V-brakes were all you needed on a mountain bike. You'd struggle to find anything more expensive than a Halfords £99 special with anything other than disc brakes in the MTB world now, and I doubt road bikes will be all that far behind.
I`ve just had an 853 Rourke built and it would have looked awful to me with discs.
curlyks2 said:
This.
Any brake that is capable of locking the wheel(s) can do the job. If you prefer the feel of rim brakes then go for it; if you prefer the feel of disc brakes then go for it.
a disk brake will start slowing you before a rim brake bites through the water, if you are ham fisted enough to lock up them that is your problem and you'll be doing it several meters later on rim brakes.Any brake that is capable of locking the wheel(s) can do the job. If you prefer the feel of rim brakes then go for it; if you prefer the feel of disc brakes then go for it.
Brads67 said:
Kermit power said:
I suggest you don't leave it too long before buying your last ever road bike then!
People used to say that V-brakes were all you needed on a mountain bike. You'd struggle to find anything more expensive than a Halfords £99 special with anything other than disc brakes in the MTB world now, and I doubt road bikes will be all that far behind.
Thing is I don`t care about them outperforming rim brakes. I don`t want them on my road bikes.People used to say that V-brakes were all you needed on a mountain bike. You'd struggle to find anything more expensive than a Halfords £99 special with anything other than disc brakes in the MTB world now, and I doubt road bikes will be all that far behind.
I`ve just had an 853 Rourke built and it would have looked awful to me with discs.
Sure, if you've got the money you'll always be able to get a frame built to your specs, but you still need the other components...
Take mountain biking as the example of earlier disc adoption. There are 160 items in the disc brake segment on Chain Reaction. There are eight for V brakes.
More importantly, however, go and have a look to see how many V brake compatible rims or forks you can find. They don't even have that option as a filter setting any more, but a free text search for V brake compatible forks came up with two for 26" wheels and none for the now far more common 27.5" or 29".
If you prefer a motoring analogy, a decade from now, finding a road bike with rim brakes will be as easy as finding a luxury car with manual window winders.
Kermit power said:
Nevertheless, because the technology is so superior, it won't be too long before you simply won't be able to get the components you want.
Sure, if you've got the money you'll always be able to get a frame built to your specs, but you still need the other components...
Take mountain biking as the example of earlier disc adoption. There are 160 items in the disc brake segment on Chain Reaction. There are eight for V brakes.
More importantly, however, go and have a look to see how many V brake compatible rims or forks you can find. They don't even have that option as a filter setting any more, but a free text search for V brake compatible forks came up with two for 26" wheels and none for the now far more common 27.5" or 29".
If you prefer a motoring analogy, a decade from now, finding a road bike with rim brakes will be as easy as finding a luxury car with manual window winders.
Absolutely! Disc versus vee is a done deal, I only have one bike with vee brakes now and that is my old Marin Pine Mountain MTB that must be 25 years old, I keep it for sentimental reasons and take it out for the odd vintage MTB ride in the Forest of Dean, I have recently restored it and found new parts for a 26er with vee brakes very difficult to get, you can get cheap low quality stuff and that's about it.Sure, if you've got the money you'll always be able to get a frame built to your specs, but you still need the other components...
Take mountain biking as the example of earlier disc adoption. There are 160 items in the disc brake segment on Chain Reaction. There are eight for V brakes.
More importantly, however, go and have a look to see how many V brake compatible rims or forks you can find. They don't even have that option as a filter setting any more, but a free text search for V brake compatible forks came up with two for 26" wheels and none for the now far more common 27.5" or 29".
If you prefer a motoring analogy, a decade from now, finding a road bike with rim brakes will be as easy as finding a luxury car with manual window winders.
Built my first disc bike up last winter .... became a convert straight away. Fat superior stopping power in all conditions plus you don't get all that stty brake block crap that covers your frame in wet weather.
Both race bike and 'B' bike are in rim brakes ... I have a few sets of decent wheels so just to expensive to replace all of it. Plus I'm more interested in keeping weight down on these bikes.
The look of disc bikes has grown on me ... but all the manufacturers have developed disc version of the top bikes so if they look sexy, the rest of the lower spec'd bikes will probably too and therefore sell well.
When the 'weight' issue is eradicated, then the only consideration for me will be financial.
tty brake block crap that covers your frame in wet weather. Both race bike and 'B' bike are in rim brakes ... I have a few sets of decent wheels so just to expensive to replace all of it. Plus I'm more interested in keeping weight down on these bikes.
The look of disc bikes has grown on me ... but all the manufacturers have developed disc version of the top bikes so if they look sexy, the rest of the lower spec'd bikes will probably too and therefore sell well.
When the 'weight' issue is eradicated, then the only consideration for me will be financial.
Chrisgr31 said:
I can report that if you cycle in to the back of another cyclist on a bike with disc brakes the disc will go through the tyre and inner tube like a hot knife through butter!
You have this problem if you ride into the back of a bike with disc brakes whether you're on a disc or rim braked bike.Perhaps you need to give yourself more stopping distance?
King said:
said: I don’t like disc brakes on road bikes. For one, they look fugly, secondly, in order to be operating at their maximum potential, the wheels should be fixed with thru axles. These are a PITA, relative to Q.R. skewers if you’re trying to sort a puncture in the dark, wet, cold conditions where disc brakes have the most advantages over rim brakes. If there’s a big group of mixed ability cyclists, some with disc brakes, some with rim brakes, things can get ‘interesting’ if everyone has to start braking at the same time. They’re also relatively heavy, so mess up the handling of a nice framed bike ( generally speaking) The pads tend not to last anything like as long as rim brake calliper pads either, and they tend to cost more. They can become a giant PITA, after a roadside ‘wheel off’ maintenance job as well. They do perform better than typical rim brake set ups ( generally speaking ) from a stopping you point of view, but the negatives far outweigh the positives. What some people seem to forget, is that in the much vaunted ‘conditions in which they work much better than rim brakes’ you are ultimately limited by the traction of the tyre / friction between tyre and surface, on the road. The disc braked wheel will not reach its full braking potential before it breaks traction, to the point that it may not actually be any more effective than a rim braked bike, with suitable poor weather compound pad ( the playing field has been levelled ).
How they look is a personal thing, but for everything related to performance, I'd have to disagree 100% I'm afraid.Try commuting for a week in the rain on rim brakes, then do the same on disc brakes. I don't believe anyone would switch back!
As for needing thru axles, why??? In theory, I suppose, you might get less flex under full braking, but how often do you use full stopping power anyway? I've got hydraulic discs on both thru axles and QRs. 99.9% of the time, there's no discernible difference. I'm also not sure what sort of thru axle you've got if you think there's any particular difference in effort or skill required between taking them off and taking off a traditional skewer. There certainly isn't on any of the bikes in my family. Have you ever actually taken off a thru axle?
As for mechanicals as a result of taking the wheel off, that's only going to happen if you apply the brakes with the wheel off. That can be a pain when you flip a mountain bike onto its bars, but it's actually pretty difficult to do with road levers.
And pads lasting longer on rim brakes??? My commuter disc pads are currently at over 3,000 miles and still going strong. I've been through rim pads in under 200 miles commuting in London in the winter before now!
Kermit power said:
As for needing thru axles, why??? In theory, I suppose, you might get less flex under full braking, but how often do you use full stopping power anyway? I've got hydraulic discs on both thru axles and QRs. 99.9% of the time, there's no discernible difference. I'm also not sure what sort of thru axle you've got if you think there's any particular difference in effort or skill required between taking them off and taking off a traditional skewer. There certainly isn't on any of the bikes in my family. Have you ever actually taken off a thru axle?
As for mechanicals as a result of taking the wheel off, that's only going to happen if you apply the brakes with the wheel off. That can be a pain when you flip a mountain bike onto its bars, but it's actually pretty difficult to do with road levers.
Having both Through Axles on my Good bike and QR on the Winter bike ... I'll take Thru axles anytime. So much easier to remove and drop the wheel off. With Canyon you get a little QR style lever that can be swapped between wheels at the side of the road. No tools or storage required.As for mechanicals as a result of taking the wheel off, that's only going to happen if you apply the brakes with the wheel off. That can be a pain when you flip a mountain bike onto its bars, but it's actually pretty difficult to do with road levers.
Disc brakes can be put on and off without adjustment unless you pull the levers .. and even then all you need is a flat blade of some kind to push the pads back to get you going ... and if you have a business card in your wallet you can setup the brakes if the scuffing (in a get you home repair) annoys you that much! but just pusing the pads back and a few pumps on the lever will get you sorted!
curlyks2 said:
Barchettaman said:
Ultimately it’s the contact patch of the tyre that is the limiting factor.
This.Any brake that is capable of locking the wheel(s) can do the job. If you prefer the feel of rim brakes then go for it; if you prefer the feel of disc brakes then go for it.
Try stopping to a halt in the wet on a rim vs disc brake bike, using equivalent bikes. The disc brake bike WILL stop quicker, even when using the same tyres.
Discs for me, have them on my aeroad and won't ever go back to rim brakes. I don't see why I would. They stop better, that's what they're for. Still baffled about the "they look ugly" arguments. I guess it's subjective, but when it's something that could potentially save my life, I'd rather have the better option. I don't especially like the look of a helmet, but I still wear one.
Brads67 said:
Kermit power said:
I suggest you don't leave it too long before buying your last ever road bike then!
People used to say that V-brakes were all you needed on a mountain bike. You'd struggle to find anything more expensive than a Halfords £99 special with anything other than disc brakes in the MTB world now, and I doubt road bikes will be all that far behind.
Thing is I don`t care about them outperforming rim brakes. I don`t want them on my road bikes.People used to say that V-brakes were all you needed on a mountain bike. You'd struggle to find anything more expensive than a Halfords £99 special with anything other than disc brakes in the MTB world now, and I doubt road bikes will be all that far behind.
I`ve just had an 853 Rourke built and it would have looked awful to me with discs.
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