The "Show off your bike" thread! (Vol 2)
Discussion
The Bobcat Trail 3 in its near final form for the foreseeable I think!
Could someone recommend me a freehub replacement too please? I run the SRAM NX which has an 11-50t cassette which is compatible with any 8/9/10 speed Shimano HG type freehub body. I have no clue on what freehubs are actually worth upgrading to and my current Marin freehub bearings are on their way and they make a racket when in motion.
For ref my rear hub is specced as "Forged alloy, 32H" and the axle is a 9mm QR.
I have found something like this: https://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m7b40s424p79480...
But as you can see that is a full hub with freehub body whereas I just need the freehub.I think although thinking about it furthe rit could be the hub bearings that are on the way as opposed to the freehub?
Thanks!
Could someone recommend me a freehub replacement too please? I run the SRAM NX which has an 11-50t cassette which is compatible with any 8/9/10 speed Shimano HG type freehub body. I have no clue on what freehubs are actually worth upgrading to and my current Marin freehub bearings are on their way and they make a racket when in motion.
For ref my rear hub is specced as "Forged alloy, 32H" and the axle is a 9mm QR.
I have found something like this: https://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m7b40s424p79480...
But as you can see that is a full hub with freehub body whereas I just need the freehub.I think although thinking about it furthe rit could be the hub bearings that are on the way as opposed to the freehub?
Thanks!
Edited by robbiekhan on Tuesday 1st June 01:07
robbiekhan said:
The Bobcat Trail 3 in its near final form for the foreseeable I think!
Could someone recommend me a freehub replacement too please? I run the SRAM NX which has an 11-50t cassette which is compatible with any 8/9/10 speed Shimano HG type freehub body. I have no clue on what freehubs are actually worth upgrading to and my current Marin freehub bearings are on their way and they make a racket when in motion.
For ref my rear hub is specced as "Forged alloy, 32H" and the axle is a 9mm QR.
I have found something like this: https://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m7b40s424p79480...
But as you can see that is a full hub with freehub body whereas I just need the freehub.I think although thinking about it furthe rit could be the hub bearings that are on the way as opposed to the freehub?
Thanks!
Freehubs on the whole aren’t interchangeable or upgradeable. A hope freehub probably wont fit onto your hub. Could someone recommend me a freehub replacement too please? I run the SRAM NX which has an 11-50t cassette which is compatible with any 8/9/10 speed Shimano HG type freehub body. I have no clue on what freehubs are actually worth upgrading to and my current Marin freehub bearings are on their way and they make a racket when in motion.
For ref my rear hub is specced as "Forged alloy, 32H" and the axle is a 9mm QR.
I have found something like this: https://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m7b40s424p79480...
But as you can see that is a full hub with freehub body whereas I just need the freehub.I think although thinking about it furthe rit could be the hub bearings that are on the way as opposed to the freehub?
Thanks!
Edited by robbiekhan on Tuesday 1st June 01:07
If the bearings are shot then either replace them or buy a new hub and re lace the wheels. Sometimes its easier just to buy a whole new wheel.
sam.rog said:
Freehubs on the whole aren’t interchangeable or upgradeable. A hope freehub probably wont fit onto your hub.
If the bearings are shot then either replace them or buy a new hub and re lace the wheels. Sometimes its easier just to buy a whole new wheel.
I feared this might be the case, I really didn't want to change the whole wheel as I quite like the Marin rim. The Hope hub linked should do the trick in that case and I can just relace my current rim and spokes but this does mean more faff with rim tape and tubeless again lol. Maybe I should just slowly upgrade the wheelset and start with the rear wheel... At least them the rim will be factory tubeless with the better bead grip etc.If the bearings are shot then either replace them or buy a new hub and re lace the wheels. Sometimes its easier just to buy a whole new wheel.
robbiekhan said:
I feared this might be the case, I really didn't want to change the whole wheel as I quite like the Marin rim. The Hope hub linked should do the trick in that case and I can just relace my current rim and spokes but this does mean more faff with rim tape and tubeless again lol. Maybe I should just slowly upgrade the wheelset and start with the rear wheel... At least them the rim will be factory tubeless with the better bead grip etc.
Welcome to the world of mtb standards. You might not be able to reuse the spokes as the flange diameter on the hope hubs could be different. You might get lucky or probably not.
Its madness but sometimes a new wheel is cheaper than hub, spoke and nipples.
It has boggled my mind more than anything lol.
I have discovered a bike specialist in Southsea called Bike U LIke - https://bikeulike.com/
A friend mentioned them yesterday and I just rememebred the name, turns out they do custom wheel builds so I have fired them an email with my bike's details and asking for a quote on a custom rear wheel build so depending on price, may just go for that otherwise it's an off the shelf rear wheel with hub setup - If it's the latter any pointers on what's decent? The choice seems vast here too!
I imagine anything will be better than the stock Marin rear wheel setup the bike came with but I'd like to re-use my existing tyre so that kind of limits what I'm after I guess to:
- 2.25" tyre width (frame limited)
- 135mm QR axle
- Shimano HG freehub body
- 32h to keep the look consistent with the front.
I would prefer a rim that has no decals as I will be removing the Marin decals off the front anyway due to them being all scratched up now anyway from gravel and stones.
Alternatively if there is a really good and decently priced rear wheel that isn't the same look as the stock front rim then I'll go for that too with the view to upgrade the front wheel at some point to match.
I have discovered a bike specialist in Southsea called Bike U LIke - https://bikeulike.com/
A friend mentioned them yesterday and I just rememebred the name, turns out they do custom wheel builds so I have fired them an email with my bike's details and asking for a quote on a custom rear wheel build so depending on price, may just go for that otherwise it's an off the shelf rear wheel with hub setup - If it's the latter any pointers on what's decent? The choice seems vast here too!
I imagine anything will be better than the stock Marin rear wheel setup the bike came with but I'd like to re-use my existing tyre so that kind of limits what I'm after I guess to:
- 2.25" tyre width (frame limited)
- 135mm QR axle
- Shimano HG freehub body
- 32h to keep the look consistent with the front.
I would prefer a rim that has no decals as I will be removing the Marin decals off the front anyway due to them being all scratched up now anyway from gravel and stones.
Alternatively if there is a really good and decently priced rear wheel that isn't the same look as the stock front rim then I'll go for that too with the view to upgrade the front wheel at some point to match.
Just finished building this for my 8yr son.
It started out as a brand new Voodoo Nzumbi 26er in 13" size. I then stripped it completely, sold all of the parts and sent the bare frame for refinishing in gloss Audi Nardo Grey. The bike was then built up with new parts including RS Rebas (650b size), superstar wheels with wide tubeless rims, Shimano Zee 10-speed groupset, 152mm cranks, 6100 Deore brakes, Thomsen stem, Renthal bars, carbon inline seatpost and so on. It's pretty light and damn fast and the little one flies on it!
Certainly not the cheapest way to get a good kids bike, but I really liked the Joe Murray designed Voodoo frame as it had good geometry and is very light (that was the only part of it that I did like), and it was fun building up some fully custom for the little man (as all of my bikes are usually custom built)
It started out as a brand new Voodoo Nzumbi 26er in 13" size. I then stripped it completely, sold all of the parts and sent the bare frame for refinishing in gloss Audi Nardo Grey. The bike was then built up with new parts including RS Rebas (650b size), superstar wheels with wide tubeless rims, Shimano Zee 10-speed groupset, 152mm cranks, 6100 Deore brakes, Thomsen stem, Renthal bars, carbon inline seatpost and so on. It's pretty light and damn fast and the little one flies on it!
Certainly not the cheapest way to get a good kids bike, but I really liked the Joe Murray designed Voodoo frame as it had good geometry and is very light (that was the only part of it that I did like), and it was fun building up some fully custom for the little man (as all of my bikes are usually custom built)
Yacht Broker said:
Just finished building this for my 8yr son.
It started out as a brand new Voodoo Nzumbi 26er in 13" size. I then stripped it completely, sold all of the parts and sent the bare frame for refinishing in gloss Audi Nardo Grey. The bike was then built up with new parts including RS Rebas (650b size), superstar wheels with wide tubeless rims, Shimano Zee 10-speed groupset, 152mm cranks, 6100 Deore brakes, Thomsen stem, Renthal bars, carbon inline seatpost and so on. It's pretty light and damn fast and the little one flies on it!
Certainly not the cheapest way to get a good kids bike, but I really liked the Joe Murray designed Voodoo frame as it had good geometry and is very light (that was the only part of it that I did like), and it was fun building up some fully custom for the little man (as all of my bikes are usually custom built)
"Lucky lad" is all I can say. That looks ace, and the spec sounds great... It started out as a brand new Voodoo Nzumbi 26er in 13" size. I then stripped it completely, sold all of the parts and sent the bare frame for refinishing in gloss Audi Nardo Grey. The bike was then built up with new parts including RS Rebas (650b size), superstar wheels with wide tubeless rims, Shimano Zee 10-speed groupset, 152mm cranks, 6100 Deore brakes, Thomsen stem, Renthal bars, carbon inline seatpost and so on. It's pretty light and damn fast and the little one flies on it!
Certainly not the cheapest way to get a good kids bike, but I really liked the Joe Murray designed Voodoo frame as it had good geometry and is very light (that was the only part of it that I did like), and it was fun building up some fully custom for the little man (as all of my bikes are usually custom built)
My 2020 model year Hightower on Reserves. S build, C frame with XX1 shifter and mech, and Santa Cruz carbon bars. Probably gonna switch across my Hope Evo cranks and chainring, and Burgtec stem cap and spacers to go with the stem.
Still getting the fork and shock dialled, need to cut the steerer tube and might try the stem a few mm higher before cutting steerer and shortening the bars to 760mm.
Feels rapid and playful coming of a 170mm coil sprung enduro bike.
Still getting the fork and shock dialled, need to cut the steerer tube and might try the stem a few mm higher before cutting steerer and shortening the bars to 760mm.
Feels rapid and playful coming of a 170mm coil sprung enduro bike.
Yacht Broker said:
Just finished building this for my 8yr son.
It started out as a brand new Voodoo Nzumbi 26er in 13" size. I then stripped it completely, sold all of the parts and sent the bare frame for refinishing in gloss Audi Nardo Grey. The bike was then built up with new parts including RS Rebas (650b size), superstar wheels with wide tubeless rims, Shimano Zee 10-speed groupset, 152mm cranks, 6100 Deore brakes, Thomsen stem, Renthal bars, carbon inline seatpost and so on. It's pretty light and damn fast and the little one flies on it!
Certainly not the cheapest way to get a good kids bike, but I really liked the Joe Murray designed Voodoo frame as it had good geometry and is very light (that was the only part of it that I did like), and it was fun building up some fully custom for the little man (as all of my bikes are usually custom built)
Love it, as said lucky lad It started out as a brand new Voodoo Nzumbi 26er in 13" size. I then stripped it completely, sold all of the parts and sent the bare frame for refinishing in gloss Audi Nardo Grey. The bike was then built up with new parts including RS Rebas (650b size), superstar wheels with wide tubeless rims, Shimano Zee 10-speed groupset, 152mm cranks, 6100 Deore brakes, Thomsen stem, Renthal bars, carbon inline seatpost and so on. It's pretty light and damn fast and the little one flies on it!
Certainly not the cheapest way to get a good kids bike, but I really liked the Joe Murray designed Voodoo frame as it had good geometry and is very light (that was the only part of it that I did like), and it was fun building up some fully custom for the little man (as all of my bikes are usually custom built)
robbiekhan said:
The Bobcat Trail 3 in its near final form for the foreseeable I think!
Could someone recommend me a freehub replacement too please? I run the SRAM NX which has an 11-50t cassette which is compatible with any 8/9/10 speed Shimano HG type freehub body. I have no clue on what freehubs are actually worth upgrading to and my current Marin freehub bearings are on their way and they make a racket when in motion.
For ref my rear hub is specced as "Forged alloy, 32H" and the axle is a 9mm QR.
I have found something like this: https://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m7b40s424p79480...
But as you can see that is a full hub with freehub body whereas I just need the freehub.I think although thinking about it furthe rit could be the hub bearings that are on the way as opposed to the freehub?
Thanks!
Just get the bearings in the free hub and main hub (while you're there) replaced, it's literally a ten-minute job and about £15 in bearings. Could someone recommend me a freehub replacement too please? I run the SRAM NX which has an 11-50t cassette which is compatible with any 8/9/10 speed Shimano HG type freehub body. I have no clue on what freehubs are actually worth upgrading to and my current Marin freehub bearings are on their way and they make a racket when in motion.
For ref my rear hub is specced as "Forged alloy, 32H" and the axle is a 9mm QR.
I have found something like this: https://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m7b40s424p79480...
But as you can see that is a full hub with freehub body whereas I just need the freehub.I think although thinking about it furthe rit could be the hub bearings that are on the way as opposed to the freehub?
Thanks!
Edited by robbiekhan on Tuesday 1st June 01:07
It’s a bit of a standard choice but such an enjoyable bike to ride, does everything well , it’s the old model SL6 - thinking to add some Aerofly II bars and if any way to tidy up the cables at the front
Changed out the turbo cotton tires for all black Contis which roll just fine and have a bit more grip
Just had this delivered today and gave it a spin round the block. My first gravel bike. Had an older road bike for years which gradually got less use as I’m mainly a mountain biker plus hated riding rough back roads on 25mm road bike tyres
Liking it so far. Surprisingly fast on the 650b wheels, although I might buy a 700c set for more tarmac orientated rides.
Edit to say: apologies for drivetrain being on wrong side (it’s only Sora so nothing special) and ignore the standard flat pedals, now on SPDs.
vwsurfbum said:
Just get the bearings in the free hub and main hub (while you're there) replaced, it's literally a ten-minute job and about £15 in bearings.
Thing is this stock hub is made by JoyTech and uses the old style cone and cap securing of the bearings and locking of the axle. A shade too tight and the bearings rub and wear, slightly too loose and dust and water gets in ruining the bearings too. Whilst doing up the cone nuts there's always a strong chance the slack on the cone will change as you tighten the nut resulting in some grinding. It's a faff to adjust and I just don't want that maintenance to deal with every few months.In light of this and other discussions had here even I have decided to not order the Koozer XM490 hub but instead the Hope Pro v4 at £161. It has a 4 week lead time though as Hope are only making these to order but long story short, now have a superior hub with a sweet noise
Also means I can later buy the XD driver freehub body so I can get another Eagle cassette and benefit from the 10-52 tooth (or whatever they have at the time) for the 520% gearing range as currently I have the 11-50 tooth on the NX cassette which is the maximum range I can have on a HG freehub body.dvshannow said:
It’s a bit of a standard choice but such an enjoyable bike to ride, does everything well , it’s the old model SL6 - thinking to add some Aerofly II bars and if any way to tidy up the cables at the front
Changed out the turbo cotton tires for all black Contis which roll just fine and have a bit more grip
Master Bean said:
dvshannow said:
It’s a bit of a standard choice but such an enjoyable bike to ride, does everything well , it’s the old model SL6 - thinking to add some Aerofly II bars and if any way to tidy up the cables at the front
Changed out the turbo cotton tires for all black Contis which roll just fine and have a bit more grip
robbiekhan said:
vwsurfbum said:
Just get the bearings in the free hub and main hub (while you're there) replaced, it's literally a ten-minute job and about £15 in bearings.
Thing is this stock hub is made by JoyTech and uses the old style cone and cap securing of the bearings and locking of the axle. A shade too tight and the bearings rub and wear, slightly too loose and dust and water gets in ruining the bearings too. Whilst doing up the cone nuts there's always a strong chance the slack on the cone will change as you tighten the nut resulting in some grinding. It's a faff to adjust and I just don't want that maintenance to deal with every few months.In light of this and other discussions had here even I have decided to not order the Koozer XM490 hub but instead the Hope Pro v4 at £161. It has a 4 week lead time though as Hope are only making these to order but long story short, now have a superior hub with a sweet noise
Also means I can later buy the XD driver freehub body so I can get another Eagle cassette and benefit from the 10-52 tooth (or whatever they have at the time) for the 520% gearing range as currently I have the 11-50 tooth on the NX cassette which is the maximum range I can have on a HG freehub body.I bought (by accident) a 52t for my Ebike (doesn't need an eagle, let alone a 52t) from Ali express with chain for less than half of what an NX cassette on its own is and it took 2 weeks to arrive.
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