Tips/critique for a new rider
Discussion
tertius said:
I think the real purpose of clipless pedals is to keep your foot on the pedal its not to actually pull up on it. But they are way better, so definitely consider a set as you keep riding.
Yes, basically you can almost completely forget about the intricacies of pedalling other than laying down power however you want and whenever you need. eg. if you reach a short steep bit you can just stand up and pump through it without worrying about a foot slipping off.
defblade said:
It's a thing. Wait until you're having to pedal just to keep moving downhill
And also yes - the relative positions of all your bike parts do play off each other, so raising your saddle means you have slightly more forward lean to get the bars, so more weight on your hands. It is best to get your saddle position relative to the pedals right first, then sort out where you want your bars to be after that.
In the meantime, there are 3 or 4 or 5 positions available for your hands:
On the drops (which splits into right down on the last bit parallel-ish to the ground, or a bit more up on the curve, behind the brake levers) - mainly for down hill... or reducing your profile to the headwind
On the hoods - standard riding position, holding around the "horns" of the brake levers, often a finger or two curled around the brake lever.
On the tops/flats - mainly for going uphill - poor access to brakes, slightly twitchier steering, opens your chest out for breathing and gets hips/legs at a better angle for hard work.
And, slightly controversially, on the shoulders of the bars - the curve as they come from the hoods to the tops. Not really the done thing, but I do find it's good for a change, especially for my dodgy wrist.
Change between them preferably before you start to feel tingles in each position, but bear in mind the ability to safely control and brake - so the extreme positions on the tops or very bottoms may not be suitable all the time.
As a note on the downhill/headwind, a lot of people prefer to get their body low by carrying on holding the hoods, but then lower their forearms until they are level with the road so creating a tuck.
Handlebar width and shape also play a part in comfort (I've got narrow shoulders for my height, and like a much narrower bar than XL frames come with, for example), as does the exact position and angle of the brake levers because you spend so much time on the hoods... but that then gets into messing with the bar tape to change and is getting on for intermediate level set-up
Cheers for this.And also yes - the relative positions of all your bike parts do play off each other, so raising your saddle means you have slightly more forward lean to get the bars, so more weight on your hands. It is best to get your saddle position relative to the pedals right first, then sort out where you want your bars to be after that.
In the meantime, there are 3 or 4 or 5 positions available for your hands:
On the drops (which splits into right down on the last bit parallel-ish to the ground, or a bit more up on the curve, behind the brake levers) - mainly for down hill... or reducing your profile to the headwind
On the hoods - standard riding position, holding around the "horns" of the brake levers, often a finger or two curled around the brake lever.
On the tops/flats - mainly for going uphill - poor access to brakes, slightly twitchier steering, opens your chest out for breathing and gets hips/legs at a better angle for hard work.
And, slightly controversially, on the shoulders of the bars - the curve as they come from the hoods to the tops. Not really the done thing, but I do find it's good for a change, especially for my dodgy wrist.
Change between them preferably before you start to feel tingles in each position, but bear in mind the ability to safely control and brake - so the extreme positions on the tops or very bottoms may not be suitable all the time.
As a note on the downhill/headwind, a lot of people prefer to get their body low by carrying on holding the hoods, but then lower their forearms until they are level with the road so creating a tuck.
Handlebar width and shape also play a part in comfort (I've got narrow shoulders for my height, and like a much narrower bar than XL frames come with, for example), as does the exact position and angle of the brake levers because you spend so much time on the hoods... but that then gets into messing with the bar tape to change and is getting on for intermediate level set-up
I use all of them hand positions at various times. I find the drops probably most comfortable but only really associate using them when going at higher speed - is this right?
Julietbravo said:
Just to add to the bit about spinning up hills. In the 1970's, bikes all had big rings - the front ones - and cyclists tended to cycle with a slower cadence pushing harder for the same forward speed. Then a couple of things happened at the same time; Lance Armstrong recovered from cancer and didn't have the strength to push a big gear and so instead upped his cadence to 100-110 rpm and use his aerobic capacity when everyone else was cycling at 70 rpm. Manufacturers also developed smaller cranksets. In the 1980s you couldn't get smaller than 42 with Campag, and 52-42 was the traditional size for the chain rings. Now 53-39 or 34 is normal allowing cyclists to rely on aerobic function and spin at a higher cadence.
Each pedal stroke should be push down, pull back, pull up and push forward using all the muscles in the leg. You can practice this using only one leg at a time and try and keep it as smooth as possible to try and get way from just stomping down.
If you spin up a hill until you 'blow' - reach your limit aerobically - then change down a couple of gears and stand on the pedals with a reduced cadence until you get your breath back you will find you speed up hills increases.
The main thing is you are getting out and about which is brilliant; set yourself a mini timed section (via Strava?) with an incline and see what works for you. We are all built differently.
Thanks for this - very interesting.Each pedal stroke should be push down, pull back, pull up and push forward using all the muscles in the leg. You can practice this using only one leg at a time and try and keep it as smooth as possible to try and get way from just stomping down.
If you spin up a hill until you 'blow' - reach your limit aerobically - then change down a couple of gears and stand on the pedals with a reduced cadence until you get your breath back you will find you speed up hills increases.
The main thing is you are getting out and about which is brilliant; set yourself a mini timed section (via Strava?) with an incline and see what works for you. We are all built differently.
I have no idea what my rpm is to be honest (don't think I really need to at this stage?). But I do tend to find that I cycle at a fairly steady rate with the gears then influencing my speed. This feels to me like the right way of doing things.
tertius said:
I think the real purpose of clipless pedals is to keep your foot on the pedal its not to actually pull up on it. But they are way better, so definitely consider a set as you keep riding.
Gotcha. Definitely on my mind as something to progress to down the line.Had a load of gear delivered today so I'm already starting to spend money!
WhisperingWasp said:
I find the drops probably most comfortable but only really associate using them when going at higher speed - is this right?
You can use them all day if you like, no-one's checking up on it!BUT.... I would try and have a think about what it is that makes them feel good though - many people find it's more difficult to pedal when they're on the drops (thigh/gut interface, along with less flexible spines). To the point where I've seen many bike fit videos where Time Trial (TT) riders have been told to take less tuck as the aero loses of being a bit less tucked are more than made up for by them being able to both hold the position longer and also pedal more efficiently.
Is it because they're lower, and you prefer that? - Take one or more spacers out from under the stem and re-fit them above it (again, plenty of YT vids about doing that) so you lower your whole bar.
Maybe it's because they come back further, so it feels nicer than stretching to the hoods? As mentioned before, try a shorter stem.
Or something else?
...
Anyway, in my book at least, the aim is to get the hoods into the position that feels right for you - the tops and the drops should mainly be for the proper ups and downs respectively; the bulk of the bell curve of riding will mostly be on the hoods, so they need to be right.
WhisperingWasp said:
Had a load of gear delivered today so I'm already starting to spend money!
It's too late for you, you're in our world now Have you meet the "what bike bits have you just bought" thread yet?
I find holding the drops to be quite a comfortable pedalling position actually, it seems to work for me. I went the length of one of the villages today in a single gear (few off the smallest I think) on the drops and let like I had a really good flow.
Agree though that given I spend most the time on the hoods they are most important to get right. Today I had zero pins n needles and no real hand ache so perhaps my body is just getting used to the positioning/pressures. A**e continues to bug me less but still room for improvement in that, er, department!
Agree though that given I spend most the time on the hoods they are most important to get right. Today I had zero pins n needles and no real hand ache so perhaps my body is just getting used to the positioning/pressures. A**e continues to bug me less but still room for improvement in that, er, department!
defblade said:
It's too late for you, you're in our world now Have you meet the "what bike bits have you just bought" thread yet?
I have indeed ventured into some of the other threads but will try and keep them at arm's length until I know this is "me". However, I'm continuing to enjoy it. Not sure if I'm enjoying the actual riding as much as the satisfaction of doing something I know is good for me instead of being at home on the PS4!
Another ride today, keeping my every-other-day run going. This is I guess my "go-to" route. Bang on 20 miles (which feels a decent amount) and a good mix of hills, long sections, nice scenery, etc.
Beat my best time again which given how much I fannied about at the beginning after starting Strava but before setting off I'm quite pleased. Also encountered much more traffic which slowed me down through Ampthill. Guess this is offset to a degree by getting a bit of a breather in though.
Beat my best time again which given how much I fannied about at the beginning after starting Strava but before setting off I'm quite pleased. Also encountered much more traffic which slowed me down through Ampthill. Guess this is offset to a degree by getting a bit of a breather in though.
Edited by WhisperingWasp on Thursday 12th May 21:52
I have a theory about sore bums when cycling which is: as you tire, you press less on the pedals and therefore need to support more of your weight on your bum. This hurts more and more as your legs put less and less power through the pedals.
Ergo, as you get fitter, your bum will last longer and longer before giving you trouble.
Ergo, as you get fitter, your bum will last longer and longer before giving you trouble.
Happy to ride that loop with you and I can answer as many question as you can think of.
Headwinds are rubbish no matter how good you are. It never gets easier, you just go faster.
If you're going to get into road cycling more, definitely invest in some clipless pedals and cycling shoes.
My club runs introductory Saturday morning rides for people new to road cycling if you fancy out and backs from Hitchin.
Headwinds are rubbish no matter how good you are. It never gets easier, you just go faster.
If you're going to get into road cycling more, definitely invest in some clipless pedals and cycling shoes.
My club runs introductory Saturday morning rides for people new to road cycling if you fancy out and backs from Hitchin.
Mark83 said:
Happy to ride that loop with you and I can answer as many question as you can think of.
Headwinds are rubbish no matter how good you are. It never gets easier, you just go faster.
If you're going to get into road cycling more, definitely invest in some clipless pedals and cycling shoes.
My club runs introductory Saturday morning rides for people new to road cycling if you fancy out and backs from Hitchin.
Cheers Mark. I probably need to invest in a bike carrier for my car so I can mix up my riding a bit rather than doing the same old routes. The priority for now though is keeping it up so I get into the habit/routine.Headwinds are rubbish no matter how good you are. It never gets easier, you just go faster.
If you're going to get into road cycling more, definitely invest in some clipless pedals and cycling shoes.
My club runs introductory Saturday morning rides for people new to road cycling if you fancy out and backs from Hitchin.
WhisperingWasp said:
seiben said:
Nice progress. Have you managed to sort the front mech?
Thanks. No not yet. Haven’t even had a look yet tbh. Will do so tomorrow evening I think.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help?area%5B%...
Likely the cable has stretched, or pulled through the cable clamp and it just needs a bit more pulling through and then adjusting.
Gareth79 said:
Have a look at the Park Tool videos, they are excellent at explaining things very well with minimum fuss. Here's all the derailleur ones:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help?area%5B%...
Likely the cable has stretched, or pulled through the cable clamp and it just needs a bit more pulling through and then adjusting.
Thanks for this. Think that is the same channel linked-to earlier in the thread and it certainly looks like a good source of info https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help?area%5B%...
Likely the cable has stretched, or pulled through the cable clamp and it just needs a bit more pulling through and then adjusting.
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