Is a Stage 1 Remap safe for Track Days? Golf R to M135i

[CJ1]

Hi Everyone,

Once the crisis is over I am looking to swap my 2015 Mk7 Golf R for a 2014ish M135i. The Golf R just isn’t for me, It’s a manual which aren’t as tuneable as the DSG’s unless you upgrade the clutch, I've also heard the turbos are a bit of weak point. Looking to do a straight swap with a dealer for an Auto M135i.

I tend to track the car 3/4 times a year. The last time I did this in the Golf R it dropped a whole load of oil under the engine which the garage could never find the source of where it came from, so I’ve kind of lost confidence in it.

Would ideally like a M140i but just can’t stretch to £20k at the moment, the Golf is worth about £15k. Found a few nice M135i’s Pre LCI in budget. A stage 1 map is around 390BHP which brings it above the M140i level.

Is Stage 1 Generally safe for track days? I do drive the car hard on track and wondering if there’s any other precautions I should take?

Thanks
cj1

[mmm-five]

'Safe' is purely down to the quality of the remap and what tolerances have been left in the system for over-revving, lean fueling, etc.

I'd go easy for the first couple of track days, see if it handles how you like and then start with the upgrades.

Depending how you drive, you may find your first stop is to replace run-flats (if it's still fitted with them) for normal tyres, and then put fast road/track pads in.

Once you're happy with how it's handling & performing...then go for more power.

BTW, is this your first powerful RWD car?

[CJ1]

I have driven the M140i, M4, M5 and M6 all before but never really pushed them, Only brief slower drives.

The Golf R’s Grip is immense on track, I understand il have to change my driving habits for the M135i but will hopefully get one with Adaptive Suspension.

[anonymous-user]

I'd forget the map at first, spend your money on the brakes. They are not up to track work at all and more power will only show their weakness up all the more.

[CJ1]

charltjr said:

I'd forget the map at first, spend your money on the brakes. They are not up to track work at all and more power will only show their weakness up all the more.

Really? They look big enough to cope? Would probably put some Yellowstuff pads on but leave the discs alone.

[anonymous-user]

Even BMW M brakes (which this doesn't have) don't really have a great reputation for track work. It's a heavy car too.

All I can tell you is I know a guy who ran one and he upgraded them ASAP, but if you keep the sessions short and aren't too heavy on them then maybe you'll get away with fluid and pads.

[PGNSagaris]

Forget a map for now.

Good pads and racing fluid.

But, most importantly...Get a baffled sump and make sure the oil is topped up to max.

Friend of mine took his 135i on track in late Jan and this happened.

[E-bmw]

CJ1 said:

charltjr said:

I'd forget the map at first, spend your money on the brakes. They are not up to track work at all and more power will only show their weakness up all the more.

Really? They look big enough to cope? Would probably put some Yellowstuff pads on but leave the discs alone.

Don't fit yellow stuff, they are the worst pads on this earth that claim to be an upgrade.

They can't handle repeated braking, overheat & crumble away within less than 1/2 a day on track.

Go for PROPER race pads on the front & swap them when you get there & before you leave if you are worried about them working on the road.

Yes, they are expensive, but work out cheaper when you chose the right ones & they then last a dozen track days.

Likely candidates are Pagid RS29, DS Uno, DS1.11 amongst others.

[nickfrog]

I agree with the comments. A remap is the last thing you want. I tracked my LCI and the list looks like this for occasional track use:

Pads, RS29 or XP8
Fluid, RBF600
Tyres (the Supersports will chew their front outside shoulders). AD08 if you're happy to slightly change from OE size.
Front M3 LCAs or top mounts to give you front neg camber or it will understeer a lot.

[CJ1]

nickfrog said:

I agree with the comments. A remap is the last thing you want. I tracked my LCI and the list looks like this for occasional track use:

Pads, RS29 or XP8
Fluid, RBF600
Tyres (the Supersports will chew their front outside shoulders). AD08 if you're happy to slightly change from OE size.
Front M3 LCAs or top mounts to give you front neg camber or it will understeer a lot.

Thanks, Will take a note of those.
The car I am looking at is a Pre LCI 63 Plate.
https://www.inchcape.co.uk/cars/used-cars/used-car...

Appears to have Bridgestone Run-flats so will be chainring those as soon as possible.

Want to keep its drivability on road, as I do about 15000 miles a year. I had a Cooper S before which I went OTT with track modifications and completely ruined it on the road. Performance Engine mount would literally rattle the sun visors on idle, screeching brakes etc...

Would probably look at getting some Eibach Springs as Ive heard the 135/140 are a pit prone to rolling about.

[CJ1]

PGNSagaris said:

Forget a map for now.

Good pads and racing fluid.

But, most importantly...Get a baffled sump and make sure the oil is topped up to max.

Friend of mine took his 135i on track in late Jan and this happened.

Bloody hell... you’re scaring me now! .... what does the baffled sump do? How much do they cost?

[PGNSagaris]

I’d imagine the kit can’t be more than a few hundred plus fitting on top.

It helps guard against oil starvation...which leads to the above disaster. By the time the dash light for oil pressure comes in, it’s too late sadly.

[nickfrog]

If it's the M2 sump with an additional pump, it's supposed to cope with 1.2g of lateral so that should do the trick. Compatibility with engine needs to be checked of course.