Front chassis rust

Author
Discussion

buggalugs

Original Poster:

9,243 posts

237 months

Tuesday 30th April 2013
quotequote all
I'm sure someone will rip my arse out for crappy welding but here goes -



I went about as high up again on the other side, and either chamfered back the outer layer or welded from both sides where possible to tie both old layers into the thicker new single layer. I beat the st out of it with a lump hammer and nothing moved so just hope the MOT man likes it!

Other side looks about the same, just finished replacing the rear outer sill on one side, other side needs same, then a few bits and bobs then MOT time. Honestly I'm expecting it to come back in new places in a couple of years so will have to decide to keep patching or break it, I think I'm a bit mad for doing this much TBH but we'll see.

skinny

5,269 posts

235 months

Tuesday 30th April 2013
quotequote all
looks a fk load better than before mate so fair play, i'd say that's a pretty decent job - wish i had the ability to do the same on mine!

Buff Mchugelarge

3,316 posts

150 months

Tuesday 30th April 2013
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skinny said:
looks a fk load better than before mate so fair play, i'd say that's a pretty decent job - wish i had the ability to do the same on mine!
Agreed biggrin

Great job thumbup

buggalugs

Original Poster:

9,243 posts

237 months

Wednesday 1st May 2013
quotequote all
I'd say my ability now is a lot better than before I started! hehe

On the other side of the car I had to go right up to the top to find good metal. It's scary how many must be driving round with no strength at all in those front sections yikes This car had a month's MOT left on it when we bought it, there's no way all that happened in 11 months...

MoelyCrio

2,457 posts

182 months

Tuesday 20th August 2013
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Apologies for the thread resurrection but I need a quick answer.

I viewed a 98 1.8 on Sunday and it was lovely, not sign of rust anywhere (apart from surface corrosion on suspension parts).

I forgot all about the chassis rails. Bearing in mind the car will be sat on an OAPs driveway, is there any way to check for rot without removing the undertray?

I can probably get away with removing a wheel at most. I don't want to pay for a full inspection as the car is cheap and clean. Just need a way of checking those rails. Its had a 1000 dry miles of use each of the last 6 years and had done 70000 before that. It lives in a dry garage at the moment.

Thanks

NRS

22,162 posts

201 months

Tuesday 20th August 2013
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From what I've seen written it doesn't always seem to help in regards to being in a garage (some have suggested this is worse if car is wet as it will reduce the amount of air circulating to dry it out). You can get access to a bit of one from the engine bay on one side, and parts from the wheel arches. However undertray cover removal is required to access the whole part from what I've seen (but not an expert). It's a bit of a problem as it seems you have to take a bit of a punt on it when buying.

wildoliver

8,780 posts

216 months

Wednesday 21st August 2013
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Just wind the wheels across and you can access the part of the member that rots.

Most out there have some rot. It isn't an issue to weld up at all, the problem my car has is it's previous owner tapped some armco with the front and due to 3 sides of that member being non existant it's pushed all the nose out of line, I've straightened it out and welded it up but it's far from perfect, hence I'm looking for a cheap Mk2 to reshell mine in to.


MoelyCrio

2,457 posts

182 months

Wednesday 21st August 2013
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Thnaks chaps.
I waded through about a hundred pages last night on various forums and realised the majority of rust is visible on the outer rail just forward of the ARB mount, so as said, wheel at full lock assuming no arch liner?
Hopefully the car will be fine. I believe it was imported around 2006, it does look absolutely mint.