Alignment Gurus. What's your opinion?
Discussion
As I've driven the car more I've noticed it seemed to have an inclination to go right on throttle and left when you get off it. So took it around to the local laser alignment place:
Before >>> After
Only driven it a short distance home but it "feels" better.
To start with we didn't think he'd be able to do it as the left rear of the car was riding 1/2 an inch lower than the right.... But after raising the car on the alignment rig it'd settled flat. Underlying Shock problem?
Before >>> After
Only driven it a short distance home but it "feels" better.
To start with we didn't think he'd be able to do it as the left rear of the car was riding 1/2 an inch lower than the right.... But after raising the car on the alignment rig it'd settled flat. Underlying Shock problem?
To be honest, on an MX5 there is very little excuse by a technician not to get all the values nice and equal both sides unless alignment bolts are seized etc. I had it done once by a place with a Hunter and got similar readings to your "after" settings, all in the green but not identical left to right. However, after going to wheels in motion for a second look, everything was further adjusted to be pretty much perfectly equal and as close to their fast road spec as was possible with a standard height car. Uneven front camber jumps out from your pic even "after" as does uneven caster.
And my car did the whole move with the throttle thing - had a broken spring knackered rear shock and broken arb drop link.... so try all those for starters!!
And my car did the whole move with the throttle thing - had a broken spring knackered rear shock and broken arb drop link.... so try all those for starters!!
What were they using as their target values? It all looks very neutral, the sort of thing you might see on a family car to reduce tyre wear. The front caster wasn't touched and the rear has almost no toe but plenty of camber which looks a bit odd to me. Also, toe out at the rear should always be avoided.
Overall I'd say I'm not impressed.
Overall I'd say I'm not impressed.
MX-5 Lazza said:
What were they using as their target values? It all looks very neutral, the sort of thing you might see on a family car to reduce tyre wear. The front caster wasn't touched and the rear has almost no toe but plenty of camber which looks a bit odd to me. Also, toe out at the rear should always be avoided.
Overall I'd say I'm not impressed.
It was using whatever the Hunter computer system suggested. I was with him to select the right car from the list. NC with 17" wheels.Overall I'd say I'm not impressed.
MX-5 Lazza said:
What were they using as their target values? It all looks very neutral, the sort of thing you might see on a family car to reduce tyre wear. The front caster wasn't touched and the rear has almost no toe but plenty of camber which looks a bit odd to me. Also, toe out at the rear should always be avoided.
Overall I'd say I'm not impressed.
QFT.Overall I'd say I'm not impressed.
I'd not be particularly happys with that alignment. Ignoring the fact it has toe out, it's not even even left to right!
Munter,
although your car is showing 'within manufacturers spec' on the Hunter aligner the alignment isn't particularly good!
The rear shows 'toe in' on both rear wheels (N.B. positive values on a Hunter is toe in where as negative are toe out - the little illustration at the side means nothing) which is correct but there is a large difference side-side; this gives a large negative thrust angle from your rear axle which isn't particularly good! The rear toe should be even side-side.
The front axle concerns me more! You have positive camber on your right front wheel (drivers side) and negative camber on the nearside. Ideally you want negative camber set on both sides. At the moment the difference in cambers will cause a 'pull' on the vehicle.
I recommend taking the car to an alignment centre that usses a Hunter Hawkeye machine and knows MX5's well.
Here are some reccomendations:
http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...
http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...
Lots of very satisfied MX5 customers!
http://blinkmotorsport.com/wheelalign.html
Also recommended in the 'Wheel Alignment section here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
although your car is showing 'within manufacturers spec' on the Hunter aligner the alignment isn't particularly good!
The rear shows 'toe in' on both rear wheels (N.B. positive values on a Hunter is toe in where as negative are toe out - the little illustration at the side means nothing) which is correct but there is a large difference side-side; this gives a large negative thrust angle from your rear axle which isn't particularly good! The rear toe should be even side-side.
The front axle concerns me more! You have positive camber on your right front wheel (drivers side) and negative camber on the nearside. Ideally you want negative camber set on both sides. At the moment the difference in cambers will cause a 'pull' on the vehicle.
I recommend taking the car to an alignment centre that usses a Hunter Hawkeye machine and knows MX5's well.
Here are some reccomendations:
http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...
http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...
Lots of very satisfied MX5 customers!
http://blinkmotorsport.com/wheelalign.html
Also recommended in the 'Wheel Alignment section here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Edited by nikpro on Monday 30th July 01:18
Miata.net is very useful for this sort of thing:
http://www.miata.net/garage/align.html
Lanny settings:
http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html
FM recommends:
Front wheels:
Caster: 5.0 degrees
Camber: 1.0 degree negative (about 5 mm out at the bottom, per side)
Toe in: 1.6 mm (0.8 mm per side)
Rear wheels:
Camber: 1.5 degrees negative (about 8 mm out at the bottom, per side)
Toe in: 1.6 mm (0.8 mm per side)
http://www.miata.net/garage/align.html
Lanny settings:
http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html
FM recommends:
Front wheels:
Caster: 5.0 degrees
Camber: 1.0 degree negative (about 5 mm out at the bottom, per side)
Toe in: 1.6 mm (0.8 mm per side)
Rear wheels:
Camber: 1.5 degrees negative (about 8 mm out at the bottom, per side)
Toe in: 1.6 mm (0.8 mm per side)
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