Would a MX5 NB daily driver be a good idea?
Discussion
EuropeanBob said:
andburg said:
Can’t see why not if you get a solid one.
No different to daily driving a mk4 if you fit a decent modern head unit
Was looking up some apple car play head units earlier funny enough. Any idea on how good the speakers are in em? I do love my music so it would be nice to have decent sound.No different to daily driving a mk4 if you fit a decent modern head unit
Having recently got a massive subwoofer in my subaru (yeah, i know
), i looked into finding a sub to fit to the mazda - some slimline ones are available to fit either under or behind the seat, or some put it on the back shelf but to me thats an invitation for thieves.If you really want to go to town you could look into dynamat, or similar. The aim is the reduce noise/ vibration in the doors so you can hear your speakers better.
https://www.dynamat.com/applications-industries/au...
Or just turn the volume up!
jimmytheone said:
The standard speakers are pretty rubbish, some NBs came with speakers built into the headrests - i dont know the quality but it may be worth budgeting for upgraded speakers as well the head unit.
Having recently got a massive subwoofer in my subaru (yeah, i know ), i looked into finding a sub to fit to the mazda - some slimline ones are available to fit either under or behind the seat, or some put it on the back shelf but to me thats an invitation for thieves.
If you really want to go to town you could look into dynamat, or similar. The aim is the reduce noise/ vibration in the doors so you can hear your speakers better.
https://www.dynamat.com/applications-industries/au...
Or just turn the volume up!
Having recently got a massive subwoofer in my subaru (yeah, i know
), i looked into finding a sub to fit to the mazda - some slimline ones are available to fit either under or behind the seat, or some put it on the back shelf but to me thats an invitation for thieves.If you really want to go to town you could look into dynamat, or similar. The aim is the reduce noise/ vibration in the doors so you can hear your speakers better.
https://www.dynamat.com/applications-industries/au...
Or just turn the volume up!
Yeah definitely would have to upgrade the speakers and if i did that might as well add some sound deadening when fitting the speakers. From what i’ve seen the speakers in the door are a weird oval kind of shape but i have seen someone fit a kind of adapter made from some mdf for standard circular speakers. Also a sub would be nice but maybe an amp may need to be introduced? Would be tricky finding somewhere to put it I would imagine?
I'll see if i can find the details of the sub i was looking at but other options are:
Headunit with a decent built in amp - you can get a double-din replacement fascia - or
Amp behind one seat, sub behind the other
I think my NA speakers were round, NB's may be different or it could just be a different grille and behind it its a normal round one?
eta - dont add too much weight
Headunit with a decent built in amp - you can get a double-din replacement fascia - or
Amp behind one seat, sub behind the other
I think my NA speakers were round, NB's may be different or it could just be a different grille and behind it its a normal round one?
eta - dont add too much weight
jimmytheone said:
I'll see if i can find the details of the sub i was looking at but other options are:
Headunit with a decent built in amp - you can get a double-din replacement fascia - or
Amp behind one seat, sub behind the other
I think my NA speakers were round, NB's may be different or it could just be a different grille and behind it its a normal round one?
eta - dont add too much weight
I am a bit lighter than the average male so I reckon I could get away with a bit more! Headunit with a decent built in amp - you can get a double-din replacement fascia - or
Amp behind one seat, sub behind the other
I think my NA speakers were round, NB's may be different or it could just be a different grille and behind it its a normal round one?
eta - dont add too much weight
I’ve had my NB for 3 years now. Can it be a daily driver? Yes. Is it a good one? In my opinion no. On the right day with the roof down it’s great. On a miserable rainy day it’s crap. Noisy, fogs up, not that comfortable, no space to carry things etc etc etc.
I like mine but I wouldn’t want to daily it.
I like mine but I wouldn’t want to daily it.
I had an NB 1.8i as a daily driver back in 2010 when I was 24 that I ran for 3 years, but that was nearly 13 years ago and rust wasn't such an issue back then as they were newer.
I wouldn't daily one now and I wouldn't let one live outside either, it'd be in a garage when I'm not using it and it'd be SORN'ed in winter, mainly because of rust and leaky soft tops.
In terms of practicality, when you are younger it doesn't matter so much, you can find a way around or get a mate to help you if you need a car with space or whatever.
Also, I wouldn't get one if I was only 17 - insurance will be an absolute killer as they are RWD and do 0-60 in 8 seconds. Insurance on my MX-5 when I was 24 was about £450 a year.
I wouldn't daily one now and I wouldn't let one live outside either, it'd be in a garage when I'm not using it and it'd be SORN'ed in winter, mainly because of rust and leaky soft tops.
In terms of practicality, when you are younger it doesn't matter so much, you can find a way around or get a mate to help you if you need a car with space or whatever.
Also, I wouldn't get one if I was only 17 - insurance will be an absolute killer as they are RWD and do 0-60 in 8 seconds. Insurance on my MX-5 when I was 24 was about £450 a year.
georgeyboy12345 said:
I had an NB 1.8i as a daily driver back in 2010 when I was 24 that I ran for 3 years, but that was nearly 13 years ago and rust wasn't such an issue back then as they were newer.
I wouldn't daily one now and I wouldn't let one live outside either, it'd be in a garage when I'm not using it and it'd be SORN'ed in winter, mainly because of rust and leaky soft tops.
In terms of practicality, when you are younger it doesn't matter so much, you can find a way around or get a mate to help you if you need a car with space or whatever.
Also, I wouldn't get one if I was only 17 - insurance will be an absolute killer as they are RWD and do 0-60 in 8 seconds. Insurance on my MX-5 when I was 24 was about £450 a year.
Hi again george, yeah insurance is a killer. Every car I have looked at such as the cars you recommend in my other, I got cheap quotes with a black box or starting from 4k onwards for non black box. Been trying loads of cars. Definitely don’t want a black box, I do believe I am sensible enough to drive reasonably although that’s what probably every 17 year old says. I wouldn't daily one now and I wouldn't let one live outside either, it'd be in a garage when I'm not using it and it'd be SORN'ed in winter, mainly because of rust and leaky soft tops.
In terms of practicality, when you are younger it doesn't matter so much, you can find a way around or get a mate to help you if you need a car with space or whatever.
Also, I wouldn't get one if I was only 17 - insurance will be an absolute killer as they are RWD and do 0-60 in 8 seconds. Insurance on my MX-5 when I was 24 was about £450 a year.
EuropeanBob said:
.... My daily commute is 2 and a half miles on a dual carriageway ......
In my opinion, you could use any car for this 5 min. journey. The NBs are reliable, so it will get you to where you want to be and the small cabin, duff sound, etc. will as mentioned, only be a problem for a short time.I might be the best person to speak to on this as I ran have run two different Mk2.5s as a daily driver for the last 12 years.
2001 MX5 S 1.8.
Bought it in 2010 with 32000 miles on the clock, sold it in 2016 with 106000 miles. Kept it regularly serviced and never had anything mechanical go wrong with it apart from brake calipers seizing. Had the sills done in 2015, when I sold the car it needed a new roof as it had a vinyl one and it was beginning to crack.
2004 MX5 1.8 Euphonic.
Bought it in 2016 with 16800 miles on the clock, still waiting for it to be sold with 69000 miles on the clock. Brake caliper issues again and one wheel bearing replaced but apart no other problems until some caravan utilising nomadic tourists decided that they would like my catalyst a few weeks ago.
Had the sills done two years ago and have just replaced the roof in order to help sell it. Again regularly serviced.
No issues with chassis rails on either of them. I clean my cars regularly to make sure if there are any issues I find them early.
Basically driven every day, rain, shine, snow, fog, the lot. Huge fun, they are as good as everyone says they are, which is why I now have a MK4.
It always helps if you remember the motto for any car, look after it and it will look after you.
2001 MX5 S 1.8.
Bought it in 2010 with 32000 miles on the clock, sold it in 2016 with 106000 miles. Kept it regularly serviced and never had anything mechanical go wrong with it apart from brake calipers seizing. Had the sills done in 2015, when I sold the car it needed a new roof as it had a vinyl one and it was beginning to crack.
2004 MX5 1.8 Euphonic.
Bought it in 2016 with 16800 miles on the clock, still waiting for it to be sold with 69000 miles on the clock. Brake caliper issues again and one wheel bearing replaced but apart no other problems until some caravan utilising nomadic tourists decided that they would like my catalyst a few weeks ago.
Had the sills done two years ago and have just replaced the roof in order to help sell it. Again regularly serviced. No issues with chassis rails on either of them. I clean my cars regularly to make sure if there are any issues I find them early.
Basically driven every day, rain, shine, snow, fog, the lot. Huge fun, they are as good as everyone says they are, which is why I now have a MK4.
It always helps if you remember the motto for any car, look after it and it will look after you.
EuropeanBob said:
Hi again george, yeah insurance is a killer. Every car I have looked at such as the cars you recommend in my other, I got cheap quotes with a black box or starting from 4k onwards for non black box. Been trying loads of cars. Definitely don’t want a black box, I do believe I am sensible enough to drive reasonably although that’s what probably every 17 year old says.
Buy a snotter MX5 with 12 months ticket and use the remaining money for the insurance. Once the NCB builds up, you'll see a drop in the premium. Limiting the miles helps too as will bumping up the excess. Had my 2004 NB MX-5 Euthripc for nearly a year. 20 mile commute from Maidenhead to Sunbury, mix of either M4/M25 or back roads. Have a induction kit for some added sound and HSD coilovers fitted. MOMO 320mm steering wheel and fancy gearknob.
Pro's-
Sub 1000kg
RWD
Very mechanical driving experience, gearbox is a peach, heel and toe is great etc.
Don't need to do lifts for 2+ mates as only 2 seats, lots of space behind seats and in the boot, can act fit a lot into the car.
Easy to Park
Roof down is banging, heaters are so good can have the roof down, heated seats on no matter the weather.
Engines are bulletproof
LSD locks up great when you want it too.
Con's-
Rust obvs, mine was sorted by previous owner by the MX5 restorers but still need to keep my drain holes clear etc
1.8 VVT engine in mine, fastest spec but still lacks power compared to previous cars, but can spank it round and feel like a driving god while barely breaking the speed limit.
Few hairdresser comments from friends, all good fun though
Personally, like me, if you have no children and do not need a big car, its amazing, big learning curve being my first RWD car.
What else you going to drive that's as fun for under £3/4k...
Pro's-
Sub 1000kg
RWD
Very mechanical driving experience, gearbox is a peach, heel and toe is great etc.
Don't need to do lifts for 2+ mates as only 2 seats, lots of space behind seats and in the boot, can act fit a lot into the car.
Easy to Park
Roof down is banging, heaters are so good can have the roof down, heated seats on no matter the weather.
Engines are bulletproof
LSD locks up great when you want it too.
Con's-
Rust obvs, mine was sorted by previous owner by the MX5 restorers but still need to keep my drain holes clear etc
1.8 VVT engine in mine, fastest spec but still lacks power compared to previous cars, but can spank it round and feel like a driving god while barely breaking the speed limit.
Few hairdresser comments from friends, all good fun though
Personally, like me, if you have no children and do not need a big car, its amazing, big learning curve being my first RWD car.
What else you going to drive that's as fun for under £3/4k...
Daily driver , why not ? Had my 2001 Sport from new , now on 59k miles , as said before chassis rails and cills.
My cills were replaced at 10 yrs and given full rust treatment , a mistake in the written estimate meant I got 2 for the price of 1 .
Chassis rails have been inspected every year whilst the car is on the lift during MOT , nice tec at Mazda garage lets me walk around with him , still solid , the only one problem with the car now , it struggles to accommodate a 77 year old driver
My cills were replaced at 10 yrs and given full rust treatment , a mistake in the written estimate meant I got 2 for the price of 1 .
Chassis rails have been inspected every year whilst the car is on the lift during MOT , nice tec at Mazda garage lets me walk around with him , still solid , the only one problem with the car now , it struggles to accommodate a 77 year old driver
I had a 10th Anniversary edition for 8 years, it was mainly a fun 2nd car but was pressed into daily use on a number of occasions which is fine in the warmer months but tiresome when it's dark and wet. The lights are crap and you will be blinded by everyone else, especially vans and SUVs as your head is exactly the same height as their lights. As a daily I would personally look elsewhere but if you are only driving 2 miles to work then it will fulfill this role fine. A standard one would be much better as a daily, mine was modified, coilovers, exhaust, track day tyres etc. This made it drive very well on track or a B road blast but it made it a less appealing daily, it would ground out over many speed bumps!
I had a pretty major 'moment' commuting one wet November morning heading up a slip road to join the motorway probably doing about 50-60 when the back end stepped out unexpectedly, must have been diesel on the road as I'd done it dozens of times and never had an issue. Somehow I caught it but I probably looked like a right wannabe hero to the van behind as I drifted up the slip road!
They do rust quite significantly, namely front chassis rails, rear arches, sills, floor to sill, battery tray (in the boot), boot lid seam (around the numberplate lights), front wings can rust too. Pretty much anywhere is susceptible except the bonnet because it's aluminium! Check for dodgy repairs around the sill and arches especially as if they are just patched over then the rust will return within a year or 2. A hardtop is a good idea for winter but mine still steamed up and I used to get condensation on the inside of the hardtop, and boot.
On the right day they are great cars, despite their flaws and loved mine. They are so tactile you can place them exactly where you want them on the road and the gear shift is sublime. There is a huge scene for them, parts availability is huge and cheap also. Mechanically very robust, mine would be parked up outside for sometimes 2-3 months without starting (with the battery disconnected) and it'd always fired up first time without fail, in fact it never let me down.
Mine eventually failed it's MOT and was broken for parts, but here it is during happier times about 4 years ago. IMO the 10th Anniversary is the best colour.
I had a pretty major 'moment' commuting one wet November morning heading up a slip road to join the motorway probably doing about 50-60 when the back end stepped out unexpectedly, must have been diesel on the road as I'd done it dozens of times and never had an issue. Somehow I caught it but I probably looked like a right wannabe hero to the van behind as I drifted up the slip road!
They do rust quite significantly, namely front chassis rails, rear arches, sills, floor to sill, battery tray (in the boot), boot lid seam (around the numberplate lights), front wings can rust too. Pretty much anywhere is susceptible except the bonnet because it's aluminium! Check for dodgy repairs around the sill and arches especially as if they are just patched over then the rust will return within a year or 2. A hardtop is a good idea for winter but mine still steamed up and I used to get condensation on the inside of the hardtop, and boot.
On the right day they are great cars, despite their flaws and loved mine. They are so tactile you can place them exactly where you want them on the road and the gear shift is sublime. There is a huge scene for them, parts availability is huge and cheap also. Mechanically very robust, mine would be parked up outside for sometimes 2-3 months without starting (with the battery disconnected) and it'd always fired up first time without fail, in fact it never let me down.
Mine eventually failed it's MOT and was broken for parts, but here it is during happier times about 4 years ago. IMO the 10th Anniversary is the best colour.
Quick one from me.
On a sunny day with dry clear roads, not much comes close to the enjoyment factor.
However, after a hard days work, on a cold rainy day, blasting down a motorway with lorry wheels spraying you from both sides, it is probably the last place/ car i would want to be in.
And yes, I own an NB and no, I am not overly soft.
On a sunny day with dry clear roads, not much comes close to the enjoyment factor.
However, after a hard days work, on a cold rainy day, blasting down a motorway with lorry wheels spraying you from both sides, it is probably the last place/ car i would want to be in.
And yes, I own an NB and no, I am not overly soft.
I'm rebuilding my currently NB at the moment. I've done my dad's NA (2 of actually) previously. Any perceived material differences in corrosion resistance is greatly overstated in my experience.
You'll read everywhere that you need to make sure drains are clear. Well, yeah, but that lets water out. The root of the problem with all MX-5s is that internal coatings are pretty much non-existent so any water getting in in the first place will start corrosion and thereafter it's simply a question of speed.
Since the British public is generally too thick to see value in winter tyres, we instead try to defeat winter by spreading thousands of salt all over our roads any time it gets cold. Once dissolved in surface water this then gets distributed around the bottom half of your car and into many of the completely unprotected cavities. Blocked drains preventing this s**t drain out isn't a good thing, but these parts of the bodyshell getting a fresh supply of salty water every time you go driving between November and April is a seriously bad thing on an MX-5.
If you want to use one all year round, my own advice would be the same as for any other car actually - buy yourself a full Lanoguard kit and absolutely clart the underside of the car in it, the inner wheel arches, pull out the boot carpets and coat the insides of the rear wings down to the sills, pull out the headlights and front wheel arch liners and coat the insides of the front wings, pull out all bungs, coat the insides of anything where water might get.
One year on, do it again. And so on.
Like pretty much all cars built in the last 40 years, they rust from the inside out. The only difference is that most cars are coated somewhat on the insides so they last longer than Mazdas do. Look at photos, watch videos, and learn everywhere they rust and work out how to smother both inside and outside faces of that particular sheet of steel with lanolin such that a complete barrier between unprotected steel, oxygen and water with or without salt is in place.
Or you could just buy a good one which someone has looked after well until now, not do all that work above, and accept it'll be a crap one within 3-4 years of driving on wet salty roads.
You'll read everywhere that you need to make sure drains are clear. Well, yeah, but that lets water out. The root of the problem with all MX-5s is that internal coatings are pretty much non-existent so any water getting in in the first place will start corrosion and thereafter it's simply a question of speed.
Since the British public is generally too thick to see value in winter tyres, we instead try to defeat winter by spreading thousands of salt all over our roads any time it gets cold. Once dissolved in surface water this then gets distributed around the bottom half of your car and into many of the completely unprotected cavities. Blocked drains preventing this s**t drain out isn't a good thing, but these parts of the bodyshell getting a fresh supply of salty water every time you go driving between November and April is a seriously bad thing on an MX-5.
If you want to use one all year round, my own advice would be the same as for any other car actually - buy yourself a full Lanoguard kit and absolutely clart the underside of the car in it, the inner wheel arches, pull out the boot carpets and coat the insides of the rear wings down to the sills, pull out the headlights and front wheel arch liners and coat the insides of the front wings, pull out all bungs, coat the insides of anything where water might get.
One year on, do it again. And so on.
Like pretty much all cars built in the last 40 years, they rust from the inside out. The only difference is that most cars are coated somewhat on the insides so they last longer than Mazdas do. Look at photos, watch videos, and learn everywhere they rust and work out how to smother both inside and outside faces of that particular sheet of steel with lanolin such that a complete barrier between unprotected steel, oxygen and water with or without salt is in place.
Or you could just buy a good one which someone has looked after well until now, not do all that work above, and accept it'll be a crap one within 3-4 years of driving on wet salty roads.
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