Unusual job on the bench today
Discussion
Evening!
Here's one I made earlier
A customer came in with the task that I should remake an existing 18ct yellow gold ring in platinum. Same spec, just using the existing stones.
Here is the original ring:
I took some platinum and rolled it down to the required dimensions to make the shoulders:
The ends are cut to match:
And 2 x shoulders are born. I'd normally make the shank and shoulders in one piece but because of the angles and thicknesses it's best to make it in parts and keep fingers crossed that it all goes ok in construction. :
Next I make a setting with some wire, tube, solder and lots of heat!
The shoulders are then notched to fit the setting and married up:
They are then tacked in place with a soft platinum solder so I can tweek them to get the angles right:
The next stage is to make the shank. Here I've taken some platinum and rolled to the correct dimensions. The ends are then notched to accept the shoulders and the angle they meet at:
This is then soldered in place with hard solder before filling the joints around the setting with hard solder also.
With the soldering done it's time to concentrate on the finishing. Lots of filing and fiddling to be done:
The ring is now at the point where I can start setting stones. The centre goes in first which then allows me to set the shoulder stones at the correct distances from the middle.
And done!
I'll throw 2 jobs in tonight, mainly because this next one is very much an unusual job / unusual item.
A 3ct pear shaped "diamond" (more carbon and holes than actual diamond, but it was quirky) set in a hammered platinum mount:
All customer spec btw!
This thing is the "sparrowhawk". A shaped anvil for making odd shaped with flat metals. Looks nothing like a hawk!!
Have a good weekend
Eddie
Here's one I made earlier
A customer came in with the task that I should remake an existing 18ct yellow gold ring in platinum. Same spec, just using the existing stones.
Here is the original ring:
I took some platinum and rolled it down to the required dimensions to make the shoulders:
The ends are cut to match:
And 2 x shoulders are born. I'd normally make the shank and shoulders in one piece but because of the angles and thicknesses it's best to make it in parts and keep fingers crossed that it all goes ok in construction. :
Next I make a setting with some wire, tube, solder and lots of heat!
The shoulders are then notched to fit the setting and married up:
They are then tacked in place with a soft platinum solder so I can tweek them to get the angles right:
The next stage is to make the shank. Here I've taken some platinum and rolled to the correct dimensions. The ends are then notched to accept the shoulders and the angle they meet at:
This is then soldered in place with hard solder before filling the joints around the setting with hard solder also.
With the soldering done it's time to concentrate on the finishing. Lots of filing and fiddling to be done:
The ring is now at the point where I can start setting stones. The centre goes in first which then allows me to set the shoulder stones at the correct distances from the middle.
And done!
I'll throw 2 jobs in tonight, mainly because this next one is very much an unusual job / unusual item.
A 3ct pear shaped "diamond" (more carbon and holes than actual diamond, but it was quirky) set in a hammered platinum mount:
All customer spec btw!
This thing is the "sparrowhawk". A shaped anvil for making odd shaped with flat metals. Looks nothing like a hawk!!
Have a good weekend
Eddie
Butter Face said:
That diamond looks a decent size, but the clarity isn’t that good, I assume it’s not as expensive as you’d expect s diamond that size to be?
£100pct. "Clarity isn't that good" assumes it had clarity. It was an interesting stone if you like character. Very risky to set with all the flaws though 
ecain63 said:
Nearly 4 weeks since my last post, what's been going down?
I had a holiday to recover from the busy summer rush and then it was straight back into it last week. Plenty of jobs waiting for me including a couple for you good people. Here is one that is due to be collected this week.....
It's nice when a customer leaves the job of finding the right stone in my hands. The certs and computer images can only so show much which is why it's important to get some stones in and compare them in the real world. I've been using my diamond supplier for over a decade and he knows what works for me and my clients. He's very good at supplying stones he'd buy with his own money and although he's never the cheapest he always overproduces on quality and visuals. With this job the customer had a rough budget guide as well as a good idea on stone size: Circa 1.00ct pear shape with a lively appearance.
Half a dozen shortlisted stones came through and in the end I decided the money was best spent on a 1.02ct F SI1 on a GIA. On another certificate you could see it at as high as a D VS1 such is the strictness of GIA grading. It is a stunning stone. The customer knew pretty much what he wanted in the mount design and after a short spell deciding on claw specs we settled on platinum and 3 claws.
It was a nice build session too as it goes. I had the customer on WhatsApp on Saturday morning and was able to send realtime images and videos as I went. The wonders of modern technology! Here's how it went.....
This one was mine. I can give you public thanks and recommendation now as I finally plucked up the courage and asked the question and she said yes, phew!I had a holiday to recover from the busy summer rush and then it was straight back into it last week. Plenty of jobs waiting for me including a couple for you good people. Here is one that is due to be collected this week.....
It's nice when a customer leaves the job of finding the right stone in my hands. The certs and computer images can only so show much which is why it's important to get some stones in and compare them in the real world. I've been using my diamond supplier for over a decade and he knows what works for me and my clients. He's very good at supplying stones he'd buy with his own money and although he's never the cheapest he always overproduces on quality and visuals. With this job the customer had a rough budget guide as well as a good idea on stone size: Circa 1.00ct pear shape with a lively appearance.
Half a dozen shortlisted stones came through and in the end I decided the money was best spent on a 1.02ct F SI1 on a GIA. On another certificate you could see it at as high as a D VS1 such is the strictness of GIA grading. It is a stunning stone. The customer knew pretty much what he wanted in the mount design and after a short spell deciding on claw specs we settled on platinum and 3 claws.
It was a nice build session too as it goes. I had the customer on WhatsApp on Saturday morning and was able to send realtime images and videos as I went. The wonders of modern technology! Here's how it went.....
Edited by ecain63 on Wednesday 11th October 20:10
Anyway - I can’t thank Eddie enough for his help, I was a total newbie to diamond shopping and Eddie helped me right out, trustworthy, honest and excellent communication throughout the process, nothing seemed like too much trouble, even when I’m sure a lot of my questions and requests were tiring!
I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend him to anyone. Thanks again Eddie and she loves the ring!
Congratulations Colin, I trust it was a memorable unveiling?
This particular ring / diamond has probably been the most popular of the year so far as the stone is absolutely stunning. So much life and presence, with a very classic appearance when mounted. We received quite a few enquiries off the back of that build so we knew it would go down well with you.
Congratulations again, we wish you all the best
This particular ring / diamond has probably been the most popular of the year so far as the stone is absolutely stunning. So much life and presence, with a very classic appearance when mounted. We received quite a few enquiries off the back of that build so we knew it would go down well with you.
Congratulations again, we wish you all the best
Butter Face said:
NDA said:
ColdoRS said:
Thanks again Eddie and she loves the ring!
Congratulations - not surprised she loves the ring, it's stunning.Very much looking forward to my Eddie update this week!
Another little Christmas goodie for someone on here
18ct white gold and diamond half eternity. Happily I was allowed a bit of free play in making this.
11 x 0.06ct brilliant cut diamonds. They were a tiny fraction over the 0.6 which gave the 0.72ct figure. Win for the recipient:
Melt some 18ct white gold:
Roll it and shape it (2.8mm square):
The ends are cut and the ring joined. Once joined the shape is hammered out to achieve the correct taper and dimensions (2.5mm wide):
And after a bit of a clean:
I marked out roughly where the taper ends and then scored the centre line with a fine saw. Then the centre point of the head is found so I can place the centre diamond:
And drilling commences:
With the holes drilled I then rescore the centre line and prepare to set the diamonds. I also score the sides of the setting to mark the splits between the claws:
After a bore drill is used to finish off the inside of each setting the stones are pressed in to the holes:
Using a grainer the claws are made and the stones secured:
The ring is then boiled in acid along with its mates (insert sinister laugh) before being polished, degreased and rhodium plated. And that is job done
Eddie
18ct white gold and diamond half eternity. Happily I was allowed a bit of free play in making this.
11 x 0.06ct brilliant cut diamonds. They were a tiny fraction over the 0.6 which gave the 0.72ct figure. Win for the recipient:
Melt some 18ct white gold:
Roll it and shape it (2.8mm square):
The ends are cut and the ring joined. Once joined the shape is hammered out to achieve the correct taper and dimensions (2.5mm wide):
And after a bit of a clean:
I marked out roughly where the taper ends and then scored the centre line with a fine saw. Then the centre point of the head is found so I can place the centre diamond:
And drilling commences:
With the holes drilled I then rescore the centre line and prepare to set the diamonds. I also score the sides of the setting to mark the splits between the claws:
After a bore drill is used to finish off the inside of each setting the stones are pressed in to the holes:
Using a grainer the claws are made and the stones secured:
The ring is then boiled in acid along with its mates (insert sinister laugh) before being polished, degreased and rhodium plated. And that is job done
Eddie
Gassing Station | Watches | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff