Unusual job on the bench today

[NDA]

Ah!

Didn't know that - clever.

The things I've learned on this thread.

Thanks.

[ecain63]

To finish off yesterdays build.....

The ring is given a bit more of a tidy and some additional solder to boost the areas I tacked yesterday.



The sapphires need to go in first so I notch the claws at the required height.





The first sapphire is laid in and the claws pressed over the edge.



And then the second......



The claws are cut with a fine saw (also awesome at chopping thumbs) to reduce the length:



With a fine file the tips are rounded off and pressed with a domed graining tool:





With the sapphires in place the diamond is next to go in. The girdle is not totally level on this stone so I have to be very accurate with my cut to ensure the diamond sits as level as possible:





Using the same process as before the diamond is secured in the mount:







The ring is then fully polished and double checked for security and fit. Not a bad job I don't think

[tobinen]

Very impressive.

[Mgd_uk]

Stunning work.

[NDA]

Really very interesting - thanks.

That notching looks such delicate work - you could balls that up very easily I imagine.

It's a big ring.... I bought my wife a large sapphire and diamond ring some years ago, but she never wears it as it's a bit too sparkly.

[ecain63]

A few high res shots to finish.....

[Planet Claire]

That is lovely, Eddie.

[HIS LM]

Wow your work is stunning, I need a ring for the Mrs I have no gems to bring in but if I let you know the gems required would you commission to order - pm if it's easier

Out of interest the sapphire and diamond ring what is that worth ?

[ecain63]

HIS LM said:

Wow your work is stunning, I need a ring for the Mrs I have no gems to bring in but if I let you know the gems required would you commission to order - pm if it's easier

Out of interest the sapphire and diamond ring what is that worth ?

Yup, that's pretty much what I do. You decide what you want and I give you options in and around the request. PM is the way forward.....

Ref the value, it's being assessed this week. Easily in 5 figures, probably 2 or 3 multiples of 5 figures.

[ecain63]

Planet Claire said:

That is lovely, Eddie.

Many thanks

[ecain63]

Another sentimental job on the bench today. A customer got in touch and asked if I could make a ring similar to the one in the picture using her inherited 22ct wedding band an a loose 5.8mm diamond that she had. Here's how it went.....

The guide image:



And the band:



The band is melted down and then rolled to 2.7mm x 1.8mm D shape.



And stamped:



The wire is then turned to a band:



The ring is to be a size M once finished but because it needs a hammer finish I make it a few sizes smaller to account for the beating it'll get:





After some gentle tickling:





The off-cuts are then melted again and rolled into a plate:







Next I make the setting for the diamond. The plate is turned to make a roughly 5mm tube and soldered together:



And then pressed into a cone shaped mould to form a taper:



The cone is then treated to the same hammering that the shank took, until it;s the right size for the diamond:



The shank is cut to fit the setting:



And it's soldered in:



The little split can be repaired during setting:



Size check:



The inside of the setting is grooved to accept the diamond and the stone secured (and split repaired):



And the edge hammered gently





After a clean it gets a light polish to enhance the detail of the hammered effect:











And it's done:

Edited by ecain63 on Tuesday 20th February 21:12

[GT03ROB]

ecain63 said:

A few high res shots to finish.....

Saw this beauty in the flesh this morning. Very nice piece of work Eddie.

[ecain63]

GT03ROB said:

ecain63 said:

A few high res shots to finish.....

Saw this beauty in the flesh this morning. Very nice piece of work Eddie.

[HIS LM]

Inspired by this fantastic work I contacted Eddie and he came up with this amazing creation which SWMBO adores another very satisfied customer

Top marks the man is a ledge

Edited by HIS LM on Sunday 25th February 22:53

Edited by HIS LM on Sunday 25th February 22:55

[ecain63]

Always happy to help

[RichTT]

ecain63 said:

As it's a watch forum........

2 watch refurbs we had in this week. The first is an 18ct and steel Omega Constellation. Just needed a spruce up. The Constellation case is an easy one to take apart so this part is a very quick job. The bracelet can be fully disassembled but with the right tools I can achieve a good two-tone finish with the links still pinned together. :
Eddie

Eddie, first of all, thank you for the insight into your work. You've created some stunning pieces and I love 'build' threads of all sorts. Appreciate the time you take to upload and document for us.

However, secondly, please tell me that you have a clean area for dismantling watches and storing the movements whilst working on the cases. I see a picture of the movement from that Omega dial down on a general working area. If this is the case, and for the sake of the customers watch, please invest in an anti-static watchmakers pad and some movement covers / dishes. The thought of those tiny metallic particles ending up in a watch movement is a recipe for disappointment from the point of view of the customer.

[ecain63]

Rich,

Thank you for your concern and help in pointing out any flaws in my practices. You'll be pleased to hear that the case refurbs tend to happen prior to a service so I rarely have to consider the possibility of a dirty movement going to a customer.

[ecain63]

To add, many watches do not require the removal of the movement so risk is further reduced.

[TravelsVeryRapid]

Just discovered this thread Eddy, I used to do the same job as you. Retired about 2.5 years ago, looks like you are doing some good work there.
Steve.

[ecain63]

TravelsVeryRapid said:

Just discovered this thread Eddy, I used to do the same job as you. Retired about 2.5 years ago, looks like you are doing some good work there.
Steve.

Hi Steve,

Where did you work?

It's not often you come across proper jobbing jewellers outside B'ham and London these days. Very much a dying art, thanks to the internet and the invent of cheap, throw away jewellery.