Which perpetual?

Author
Discussion

Shabs

Original Poster:

1,866 posts

206 months

Sunday 16th September 2018
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Hi, meaningful anniversary year and we have decided to celebrate by buying nice things.

I have always loved perpetual watches but would like views on the movements and quality / ability to daily wear the following:

Glashutte Original Senator
Breguet classique perpetual
JLC master ultra thin perpetual

I like the look of the Glashutte the most, have heard the movement of the JLC is very good and obviously Breguet are a great brand, but know very little about them

Thank you

hilly10

7,097 posts

228 months

Sunday 16th September 2018
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What. no Rolex on your list

Ligne

327 posts

156 months

Sunday 16th September 2018
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Have you considered annual calendars? That would open up a couple of nice Pateks and I personally don't see the value of perpetuals with a moonphase as it will be out of sync before the calendar needs changing.

I have a JLC triple calendar which I think is beautiful but obviously needs adjusting more often and is less sophisticated.

I bought my JLC preowned and it hadn't been serviced in 15years. It was running at +2 seconds a day which I think says something of the quality of the movements, although I can't be sure how much wrist time it had in those 15years obviously. (Picture of the model I have below).





Edited by Ligne on Sunday 16th September 08:54

Shabs

Original Poster:

1,866 posts

206 months

Sunday 16th September 2018
quotequote all
I hate having to adjust the month for months with 30 days, I thought the only solution to this was a perpetual. Is that a correct assumption? Having a PP and still having to adjust dates would be frustrating

No Rolex, I feel too young

Snubs

1,172 posts

139 months

Sunday 16th September 2018
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Shabs said:
I hate having to adjust the month for months with 30 days, I thought the only solution to this was a perpetual. Is that a correct assumption?
Not quite. An annual calendar need only be adjusted once a year on the 1 March to take into account the 28, or in leap years 29, days in February. A perpetual calendar takes into account the days in February, including leap years, and need not be adjusted until the year 2100. The IWC Portugeiser Grande Complication will remain correct until 2499, but at £185,000 isn't exactly cheap:

https://www.iwc.com/gb/en/watch-collections/portug...

An annual calendar will typically be cheaper than a perpetual as it's a less complicated mechanism. Whichever one you go for, i'd have a a good look at how you go about setting the date and think about how you'll use it. If you're going to keep it constantly wound then you'll only need to set the date once and it won't be an issue, but if you're wearing it in rotation with others and letting it wind down, some perpetuals can be hard to set and risk damage if not done correctly.

A good video to watch is Watchfinder & Co's video on the H. Moser & Cie perpetual, which explains a lot about the background of perpetuals, why they need occasional adjustment over 100+ year timeframes and why the easy setting mechanism on that particular H. Moser is so impressive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPyEs4IDKis

Edited by Snubs on Sunday 16th September 13:10


Edited by Snubs on Sunday 16th September 13:14

bobbybee

872 posts

154 months

Sunday 16th September 2018
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Perpetual?

For me there’s only 3 brands I’d look at, AP, PP or VC (the VC Pt perpetual chronograph Malte being a personal favourite)

anonymous-user

54 months

Monday 17th September 2018
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hilly10 said:
What. no Rolex on your list
If you mean this one of a kind, Jay-Z owns it now and has no plans to sell it. It is, anyway, in a slightly different stratosphere budget-wise:



ZesPak

24,427 posts

196 months

Tuesday 18th September 2018
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bobbybee said:
Perpetual?

For me there’s only 3 brands I’d look at, AP, PP or VC (the VC Pt perpetual chronograph Malte being a personal favourite)
... good input... but why?

SturdyHSV

10,094 posts

167 months

Tuesday 18th September 2018
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I don't suspect price is a huge factor, but I quite like the look of the Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual.

Obviously not the same history as the others (founded in 1988...) but they make some nice watches.

It's an in-house movement too thumbup

Few different case options available etc. comfortably under £10,000.






Wills2

22,785 posts

175 months

Tuesday 18th September 2018
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Hang On said:
If you mean this one of a kind, Jay-Z owns it now and has no plans to sell it. It is, anyway, in a slightly different stratosphere budget-wise:


Made/modified by Franck Muller.


Guycord

744 posts

173 months

Tuesday 18th September 2018
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Value-wise you will never get rich with a UN but have a look at their Classico perpetual.

Good every day / dress watch, no too garish and probably one of the most robust Perpetuals on the market. Can be adjusted safely fwd/Bowden.

Manufacture mechs cost considerably more than pre-manufacture models