The Under £200ish Watch and occasional Opera Thread! Vol2
Discussion
My 1963’s arrived. Well happy! I went for the 38mm acrylic without gooseneck from RedStar. So one of the cheaper options with the ST1901. Ditched the nato & ‘leather’ straps, they’re not up to much. And fitted a couple 18mm leather straps.
Edging more towards this tan one looks much better in the flesh
It came with these 2 straps
Look at that
Edging more towards this tan one looks much better in the flesh
It came with these 2 straps
Look at that
Bob_Defly said:
Is that a Chinese copy? The Casio official images look different. The indices don't go to the edge and there is no text underneath the screen. The font looks incorrect, and the hands look different too. Sorry to be a bubble burster.
You could be right...the casio text does look different. Ive seen them with and without the extra text. This guy does a review of the AQ230 and it has the small text, but the video he has on the same page, it doesn't have it??
https://teddybaldassarre.com/en-gb/blogs/watches/c...
Unfortunately I think I have been duped...I guess I was just excited to see one available at a reasonable price. I guess if something seems to good to be true, it usually is...lesson learned. I didnt think to dig in too deep either, as who makes fake casios?? I get that i bought an SKMEI which is an obvious homage to the aq230...but didnt realise people actually went to the trouble of faking a casio.
Oh well, guess im keeping it then and I dont mind that. Its still a lovely looking watch and I do like the vintage ana/digi style and the colour really does pop.
Oh well, guess im keeping it then and I dont mind that. Its still a lovely looking watch and I do like the vintage ana/digi style and the colour really does pop.
Yeah it's not genuine, but it's still a good looker. Don't beat yourself up and try make some use of it. Here's mine, you can see the differences.
As has been said, making fake Casio's is an obvious choice. They are cheap and sell like crazy, so even if your margin is tiny the numbers become big quickly. I've accidently bought two fake F91W, they're everywhere.
As has been said, making fake Casio's is an obvious choice. They are cheap and sell like crazy, so even if your margin is tiny the numbers become big quickly. I've accidently bought two fake F91W, they're everywhere.
Pebbles167 said:
Yeah it's not genuine, but it's still a good looker. Don't beat yourself up and try make some use of it. Here's mine, you can see the differences.
As has been said, making fake Casio's is an obvious choice. They are cheap and sell like crazy, so even if your margin is tiny the numbers become big quickly. I've accidently bought two fake F91W, they're everywhere.
Thanks, it's obvious now when i look, but i didn't even think to look at the time...I'm happy with it, for what it is and it's scratched an itch i had for one...even if it's not 100% genuine. It is a good looking watch and it does kind of annoy me a little that i didnt even consider it could be fake, but lesson learned and all that. Will make a good summer/pool watch...i'm sure the water resitsance is epic!As has been said, making fake Casio's is an obvious choice. They are cheap and sell like crazy, so even if your margin is tiny the numbers become big quickly. I've accidently bought two fake F91W, they're everywhere.
mickyc79 said:
Unfortunately I think I have been duped...I guess I was just excited to see one available at a reasonable price. I guess if something seems to good to be true, it usually is...lesson learned. I didnt think to dig in too deep either, as who makes fake casios?? I get that i bought an SKMEI which is an obvious homage to the aq230...but didnt realise people actually went to the trouble of faking a casio.
Oh well, guess im keeping it then and I dont mind that. Its still a lovely looking watch and I do like the vintage ana/digi style and the colour really does pop.
I know it's not what you wanted but it is a genuinely nice looking watch.Oh well, guess im keeping it then and I dont mind that. Its still a lovely looking watch and I do like the vintage ana/digi style and the colour really does pop.
mickyc79 said:
Unfortunately I think I have been duped...I guess I was just excited to see one available at a reasonable price. I guess if something seems to good to be true, it usually is...lesson learned. I didnt think to dig in too deep either, as who makes fake casios?? I get that i bought an SKMEI which is an obvious homage to the aq230...but didnt realise people actually went to the trouble of faking a casio.
Oh well, guess im keeping it then and I dont mind that. Its still a lovely looking watch and I do like the vintage ana/digi style and the colour really does pop.
They make fake casio F91 which are a £10 watchOh well, guess im keeping it then and I dont mind that. Its still a lovely looking watch and I do like the vintage ana/digi style and the colour really does pop.
Anything else is fair game!
griffin dai said:
My 1963 s arrived. Well happy! I went for the 38mm acrylic without gooseneck from RedStar. So one of the cheaper options with the ST1901. Ditched the nato & leather straps, they re not up to much. And fitted a couple 18mm leather straps.
Edging more towards this tan one looks much better in the flesh
It came with these 2 straps
Look at that
I love that 1963 and the Seagull movement is cracking to look at...i've been eyeing up a nice Sugess on Aliexpress with the same moevment. Really like those red star models, been tempted a few times. I need another mechanical chronograph in my life, and the ST191 (?) seems like the most affordable way into one. Great watch, and great strap choice.Edging more towards this tan one looks much better in the flesh
It came with these 2 straps
Look at that
mickyc79 said:
I love that 1963 and the Seagull movement is cracking to look at...i've been eyeing up a nice Sugess on Aliexpress with the same moevment. Really like those red star models, been tempted a few times. I need another mechanical chronograph in my life, and the ST191 (?) seems like the most affordable way into one. Great watch, and great strap choice.
I was considering the Sugess but went for the cheaper (well the cheapest!) acrylic Redstar with the st1901 just to see how I get on with it. Had a bit of a flap with it the first couple hours as it ran around 20 mins slow over 2 hours and almost missed the school run 
so thought i had another dud. But gave it a good 18/19 winds and it s kept time perfect since then.I ll definitely get another, has to be acrylic but 40mm, just need to decide on a Sea-Gull, TopHill, Sugess or another Redstar. Plenty of choice!
Pebbles167 said:
Yeah it's not genuine, but it's still a good looker. Don't beat yourself up and try make some use of it. Here's mine, you can see the differences.
As has been said, making fake Casio's is an obvious choice. They are cheap and sell like crazy, so even if your margin is tiny the numbers become big quickly. I've accidently bought two fake F91W, they're everywhere.
I had one of those as an on-stage costume watch in December. It had a battery in it so of course I set both analogue and digital times:As has been said, making fake Casio's is an obvious choice. They are cheap and sell like crazy, so even if your margin is tiny the numbers become big quickly. I've accidently bought two fake F91W, they're everywhere.
Not really my thing, but nice to wear a watch that wasn’t a ‘dummy’.
Barchettaman said:
Pebbles167 said:
Yeah it's not genuine, but it's still a good looker. Don't beat yourself up and try make some use of it. Here's mine, you can see the differences.
As has been said, making fake Casio's is an obvious choice. They are cheap and sell like crazy, so even if your margin is tiny the numbers become big quickly. I've accidently bought two fake F91W, they're everywhere.
I had one of those as an on-stage costume watch in December. It had a battery in it so of course I set both analogue and digital times:As has been said, making fake Casio's is an obvious choice. They are cheap and sell like crazy, so even if your margin is tiny the numbers become big quickly. I've accidently bought two fake F91W, they're everywhere.
Not really my thing, but nice to wear a watch that wasn t a dummy .
I've managed to grab a few more shed days, so it's time for some more non horological thread drift.
Lets start with something I finished quite a while ago, but failed to post pictures of. Here is the completed mount for the crown and pinion drive:
It's a bit agricultural, but it's way stronger than the original mount which was effectively a bit of 1/4" thick right angle with some holes in. I'm not implying that the 1/4" right angle plate wasn't strong. It's how the mount attached to the two 25mm square steel tubes that I've beefed up. The old mount was attached with just the plate edge welded to the tubes. I've created a box section that will be welded all the way around. It should significantly stiffen up the two chassis tubes this thing attaches to. I'm struggling to find the words, you may need to wait for the next instalment for photos of this mount welded into position to be able to see what I've done.
For clarity, I'm not saying the original design wasn't strong enough, that's libel. All I'm saying is, this will be stronger. Sadly it's also quite a bit heavier.
Right on with the new stuff.
This picture shows the chassis repairs completed. The car is on the passenger side with the underside facing the camera.
I've always been a bit worried that, if the skunk was shunted from the rear, the swingarm (not pictured) would push forwards and, shall we say, "merge" with the passenger's lower torso and hips, giving them a "boo-boo". Once again, original design probably strong enough, but at the expense of a few hundred grams of weight, it could be stiffened.
The car is on the passenger's side again, you're looking inside the passenger compartment. I've added an extra brace from one of the two central upright tubes down to one of the central longitudinal tubes. Probably completely unnecessary, but it should make this section extremely strong. I've also added a new tube between the two longitudinals. That's the left hand side of the square formed by the two central longitudinals.
Those three round bits welded to the longitudinal tubes are the harness mounts. There's no way I can get my TIG torch into that narrow acute angle where the new tube meets the longitudinal, so I need another fillet. A big one.
First take an empty cardboard box (a Fever-tree tonic water carton. For some reason I seem to have about three empty Fever-tree catron per empty bottle of gin), and make a template. You can't see it from this photo, but the new tube is at a crazy compound angle. Repeat of the other side and tack weld both bits of steel into position.
Here you can see the angle. You can also see that I've screwed a bolt into the harness mount. I don't want the heat from welding to this mount to distort the threads. Or worse, for a spatter of weld to drop into the threads.
I cut a rhombus out of 2mm steel to cap this off and welded up the seams all the way round.
Next job after this was to add the chain guard.
This 2mm thick piece of steel exists to stop a snapped chain from becoming a flail and chewing it's way violently though the thin aluminium bulkhead and fleshy passenger. It's the only plate of steel welded in the photo.
At its top (right hand side in the photo), there's a bit of 20mm square tube to give it strength and to tie the two verticals (horizontal in photo) together. I added another piece of 20mm tube below this to continue the 'line' and tie all the verticals together across the back of the car. Originally the chassis didn't have a piece here.
There's more. I've added an extra couple of diagonal braces from the lower rear cross member to those two central longitudinals
Here's the photo again, but this time I've vandalised it, to highlight the five extra tubes that I've added. These are in addition to replacing bent stuff, they are extra tubes that were not present on the chassis originally.
And finally, I couldn't resist sliding the crown and pinion mount and the torque tube roughly into position, purely so that I could take this photo. The prop runs inside this 57mm round tube. The tube acts as both a prop catcher (again to protect fragile occupants) and to resist the twisting motion that the propshaft exerts on the crown and pinion drive.
At this point, all the work on the chassis is complete, repairs and strengthening. Next I need to position the crown and pinion mount and the swingarm and suspension bracketry.
Lets start with something I finished quite a while ago, but failed to post pictures of. Here is the completed mount for the crown and pinion drive:
It's a bit agricultural, but it's way stronger than the original mount which was effectively a bit of 1/4" thick right angle with some holes in. I'm not implying that the 1/4" right angle plate wasn't strong. It's how the mount attached to the two 25mm square steel tubes that I've beefed up. The old mount was attached with just the plate edge welded to the tubes. I've created a box section that will be welded all the way around. It should significantly stiffen up the two chassis tubes this thing attaches to. I'm struggling to find the words, you may need to wait for the next instalment for photos of this mount welded into position to be able to see what I've done.
For clarity, I'm not saying the original design wasn't strong enough, that's libel. All I'm saying is, this will be stronger. Sadly it's also quite a bit heavier.
Right on with the new stuff.
This picture shows the chassis repairs completed. The car is on the passenger side with the underside facing the camera.
I've always been a bit worried that, if the skunk was shunted from the rear, the swingarm (not pictured) would push forwards and, shall we say, "merge" with the passenger's lower torso and hips, giving them a "boo-boo". Once again, original design probably strong enough, but at the expense of a few hundred grams of weight, it could be stiffened.
The car is on the passenger's side again, you're looking inside the passenger compartment. I've added an extra brace from one of the two central upright tubes down to one of the central longitudinal tubes. Probably completely unnecessary, but it should make this section extremely strong. I've also added a new tube between the two longitudinals. That's the left hand side of the square formed by the two central longitudinals.
Those three round bits welded to the longitudinal tubes are the harness mounts. There's no way I can get my TIG torch into that narrow acute angle where the new tube meets the longitudinal, so I need another fillet. A big one.
First take an empty cardboard box (a Fever-tree tonic water carton. For some reason I seem to have about three empty Fever-tree catron per empty bottle of gin), and make a template. You can't see it from this photo, but the new tube is at a crazy compound angle. Repeat of the other side and tack weld both bits of steel into position.
Here you can see the angle. You can also see that I've screwed a bolt into the harness mount. I don't want the heat from welding to this mount to distort the threads. Or worse, for a spatter of weld to drop into the threads.
I cut a rhombus out of 2mm steel to cap this off and welded up the seams all the way round.
Next job after this was to add the chain guard.
This 2mm thick piece of steel exists to stop a snapped chain from becoming a flail and chewing it's way violently though the thin aluminium bulkhead and fleshy passenger. It's the only plate of steel welded in the photo.
At its top (right hand side in the photo), there's a bit of 20mm square tube to give it strength and to tie the two verticals (horizontal in photo) together. I added another piece of 20mm tube below this to continue the 'line' and tie all the verticals together across the back of the car. Originally the chassis didn't have a piece here.
There's more. I've added an extra couple of diagonal braces from the lower rear cross member to those two central longitudinals
Here's the photo again, but this time I've vandalised it, to highlight the five extra tubes that I've added. These are in addition to replacing bent stuff, they are extra tubes that were not present on the chassis originally.
And finally, I couldn't resist sliding the crown and pinion mount and the torque tube roughly into position, purely so that I could take this photo. The prop runs inside this 57mm round tube. The tube acts as both a prop catcher (again to protect fragile occupants) and to resist the twisting motion that the propshaft exerts on the crown and pinion drive.
At this point, all the work on the chassis is complete, repairs and strengthening. Next I need to position the crown and pinion mount and the swingarm and suspension bracketry.
Decent holiday beater for £31.43 (plus delivery) in the sale .. https://www.casio.com/uk/watches/casio/product.MRW...
Coming along nicely BrokenSkunk.
For extra protection from a chain flail you could install a Kevlar sheet onto the rear bulkhead.
You can now purchase sheets of impact foam for the side panels if you want to add a bit of safety there too, that can be boxed into the void between the inner and outer skins.
For extra protection from a chain flail you could install a Kevlar sheet onto the rear bulkhead.
You can now purchase sheets of impact foam for the side panels if you want to add a bit of safety there too, that can be boxed into the void between the inner and outer skins.
bigandclever said:
Decent holiday beater for £31.43 (plus delivery) in the sale .. https://www.casio.com/uk/watches/casio/product.MRW...
It’s a great looking watch. I managed to get it in the sale in December for £27.Gassing Station | Watches | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff