RoverGauge Idle Mode
Discussion
Hi Guys I am still having some issues with the cars idle after rebuilding the engine. For some reason the car is not going into Idle Mode 
Above is a screenshot as you can see the throttle pot is fine MAF is fine the idle control valve is low but I have checked its operation and its all working correctly. So I'm guessing its the speed sensor The speedo is working correctly how do I test if the ECU is getting the signal showing the car is not moving?
Any help would be appreciated.
Chris
Above is a screenshot as you can see the throttle pot is fine MAF is fine the idle control valve is low but I have checked its operation and its all working correctly. So I'm guessing its the speed sensor The speedo is working correctly how do I test if the ECU is getting the signal showing the car is not moving?
Any help would be appreciated.
Chris
The ECU is trying to hold the tick over at 950 rpm, and it is in idle mode, so the elevated idle is not an ECU or sensor fault. Its likely to be an air leak in the plenum area, a wrong idle bypass setting, or a throttle plate is held open. Also try using RoverGauge to shut the stepper a bit- try closing it say 30 steps and see if the idle drops- its odd the stepper shows are partly open, yet the idle is too high, it should be fully shut to try and drop the idle to the target of 950 rpm.
Edited by blitzracing on Monday 23 October 11:08
Thanks Mark I thought the green light should be illuminated if it was in idle mode. The stepper Motor is working correctly as you say if I close it manually it brings the idle down to nearly stalling and if I open it the rpm moves up. The problem is that the stepper is not adjusting automatically hence why I presumed it was not in idle mode. Could you confirm that I have the throttle pot set correctly that it is set at corrected not absolute. Everything else seems to be working perfectly.
Cheers Chris
Cheers Chris
I need to get my eyes tested- looked green to me 
The TPS needs to be less than 10% in absolute mode, and yours is in corrected. Cant say I know what the corrected value will be at shut throttle. Still worth checking the throttle plate is shutting fully as well. Everything else looks fine. I have seen some really weird faults like this depending on the Eprom fitted to the ECU, but Im assuming here its a the TVR chip and it has worked in the past? Also try opening the throttle a bit and see if the idle mode changes state visually?
The TPS needs to be less than 10% in absolute mode, and yours is in corrected. Cant say I know what the corrected value will be at shut throttle. Still worth checking the throttle plate is shutting fully as well. Everything else looks fine. I have seen some really weird faults like this depending on the Eprom fitted to the ECU, but Im assuming here its a the TVR chip and it has worked in the past? Also try opening the throttle a bit and see if the idle mode changes state visually?Edited by blitzracing on Monday 23 October 13:24
Chris
Its your throttle POT, it shouldn’t read 5% Corrected, 5% Absolute would be good. The throttle POT should read 0% corrected which is anything between 0% - 9% Absolute.
No you don’t this is what the green idle indicator looks like. The green indicator only comes on once the target idle speed has be reached, it doesn’t indicate the ECU is trying to achieve the target idle speed.
As your open loop idle is 1,500 rpm and your stepper is a fraction low, but ok, I would guess your throttle is very slightly stuck open, try forcing it closed by hand with the linkage.
Its your throttle POT, it shouldn’t read 5% Corrected, 5% Absolute would be good. The throttle POT should read 0% corrected which is anything between 0% - 9% Absolute.
chris52 said:
So I'm guessing its the speed sensor The speedo is working correctly how do I test if the ECU is getting the signal showing the car is not moving?
Go for a spin and checking the RoverGauge speedo is working is good enough, anything above 5 mph is good, a faulty road speed sensor normally causes the engine to stall while slowing down not to hang up at 1500 rpm.blitzracing said:
I need to get my eyes tested- looked green to me
MarkNo you don’t this is what the green idle indicator looks like. The green indicator only comes on once the target idle speed has be reached, it doesn’t indicate the ECU is trying to achieve the target idle speed.
As your open loop idle is 1,500 rpm and your stepper is a fraction low, but ok, I would guess your throttle is very slightly stuck open, try forcing it closed by hand with the linkage.
stevesprint said:
Mark
No you don’t this is what the green idle indicator looks like. The green indicator only comes on once the target idle speed has be reached, it doesn’t indicate the ECU is trying to achieve the target idle speed.
This is what comes of having a Ginetta that runs perfectly these days, Ive stopped playing with RoverGauge- nothing to do with old age and memory.... No you don’t this is what the green idle indicator looks like. The green indicator only comes on once the target idle speed has be reached, it doesn’t indicate the ECU is trying to achieve the target idle speed.
chris52 said:
Hi Guys I am still having some issues with the cars idle after rebuilding the engine. For some reason the car is not going into Idle Mode
Above is a screenshot as you can see the throttle pot is fine MAF is fine the idle control valve is low but I have checked its operation and its all working correctly. So I'm guessing its the speed sensor The speedo is working correctly how do I test if the ECU is getting the signal showing the car is not moving?
Any help would be appreciated.
Chris
Chris, your screen shot shows RoverGauge has a communications error:Above is a screenshot as you can see the throttle pot is fine MAF is fine the idle control valve is low but I have checked its operation and its all working correctly. So I'm guessing its the speed sensor The speedo is working correctly how do I test if the ECU is getting the signal showing the car is not moving?
Any help would be appreciated.
Chris
Communications: The green lamp is lit when the software is successfully reading data from the ECU, and the red lamp is lit when there was a problem communicating with the ECU (caused by a bad connection, disconnected cable, misconfigured USB adapter, or other problem.) Both lamps will be off if there has not been any attempt to read from the ECU.
I'd attend to this first as the data exchange could be corrupted.
davep said:
Chris, your screen shot shows RoverGauge has a communications error:
Communications: The green lamp is lit when the software is successfully reading data from the ECU, and the red lamp is lit when there was a problem communicating with the ECU (caused by a bad connection, disconnected cable, misconfigured USB adapter, or other problem.) Both lamps will be off if there has not been any attempt to read from the ECU.
I'd attend to this first as the data exchange could be corrupted.
Cheers only reason it shows that is because I unplugged the cable before I took the screenshot but well spotted anyway.Communications: The green lamp is lit when the software is successfully reading data from the ECU, and the red lamp is lit when there was a problem communicating with the ECU (caused by a bad connection, disconnected cable, misconfigured USB adapter, or other problem.) Both lamps will be off if there has not been any attempt to read from the ECU.
I'd attend to this first as the data exchange could be corrupted.
If the speedo works normally then the speed sensor must be OK.
The speed module could give a false reading which normally shows a speed reading on the RG speedo, the idle light does not come on and the idle remains high.
I'm not sure what RG or the ECU does if no signal comes from the speed module. Perhaps someone can advise.
Steve
The speed module could give a false reading which normally shows a speed reading on the RG speedo, the idle light does not come on and the idle remains high.
I'm not sure what RG or the ECU does if no signal comes from the speed module. Perhaps someone can advise.
Steve
Similar symptoms were reported here:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
No eventual outcome given though, which is a shame.
Chris, has your car been re-chipped? The R3116 tune shown in your screen shot doesn't look 'TVR' - low rev limit, low fuel multiplier. I've checked against an R3116 Land Rover variant and again it does not tally.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
No eventual outcome given though, which is a shame.
Chris, has your car been re-chipped? The R3116 tune shown in your screen shot doesn't look 'TVR' - low rev limit, low fuel multiplier. I've checked against an R3116 Land Rover variant and again it does not tally.
Edited by davep on Wednesday 25th October 14:44
I have come across a really weird fault when trying to use a TVR tune in an MGRV8- the idle was consistently high, and with RoverGauge attached you could shut the stepper until its idle was correct, but as you drove the car the idle speed stepped up bit by bit until it was about 1500 rpm. Everything was just fine with RoverGauge and all the sensors, and when I put the original MGR chip back in everything worked again. Like wise I had a Range Rover with a MA chip from RPI that idled at around 1000 rpm, yet when plugged into another ECU it was fine, but the base tune on the MA chip was very old, even though it was a "new" chip from RPI. They did supply another chip from MA with a more recent tune, but by then they guy had got fed up with all the messing around as the MA chip did not make the car any better, so he stuck with the factory chip, that was fine.
Steve_D said:
I'm not sure what RG or the ECU does if no signal comes from the speed module. Perhaps someone can advise. Steve
stevesprint said:
Go for a spin and checking the RoverGauge speedo is working is good enough, anything above 5 mph is good, a faulty road speed sensor normally causes the engine to stall while slowing down not to hang up at 1500 rpm.
ChrisI'm sure its just your throttle POT as it should read 0% Corrected, and 1%-8% Absolute, I've just checked.
Good Luck
Steve
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