Discussion
Has mentioned in a previous thread I had a misfire and some hesitation ,well hopefully now sorted . This morning I cleaned up all earths and replaced coil and now pulls like a train still wont tickover when warm though . Thanks to all those who replied any thoughts on tickover cheers
Trace
Trace
Mmmm...If its warming up okay then that don't sound like timing tbh...Plus its best to do that on the move as the timing marks can be out by up to 10 degrees...
I feel like a coolant temperature nerd but...(I know) it could be that...
"Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) is located in the coolant gallery at front left of the inlet manifold alongside but slightly behind the thermo-time switch. It informs the ECU of engine temperature changes so it can compute injector "open time" to provide correct fuel / air mixture for any temperature condition. e.g.: From cold, the CTS resistance falls continuously according to the profile below until the engine temperature stabilises. Thereafter minor changes are monitored accordingly."
Its worth checking the cold and hot values...this site will help with values etc...dont hold the tester probe on the contacts too long as it can cause the unit to fail...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
I have messaged you as regards to the fest...
Cheers
Ziga
I feel like a coolant temperature nerd but...(I know) it could be that...
"Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) is located in the coolant gallery at front left of the inlet manifold alongside but slightly behind the thermo-time switch. It informs the ECU of engine temperature changes so it can compute injector "open time" to provide correct fuel / air mixture for any temperature condition. e.g.: From cold, the CTS resistance falls continuously according to the profile below until the engine temperature stabilises. Thereafter minor changes are monitored accordingly."
Its worth checking the cold and hot values...this site will help with values etc...dont hold the tester probe on the contacts too long as it can cause the unit to fail...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
I have messaged you as regards to the fest...
Cheers
Ziga
Not sure about that one matey...This was the last one I bought...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
If they were the wrong way round then it wouldn't run...
So before we go off to another place what has been done so far....(sorry for missing any related threads)
1. New spark plugs?...what type?
2. New spark plug leads with extra long king lead?
3. New rotor arm?
4. New dizzy cap?
5. New coil?
6. Cleaned or new air filter?
7. Coolant temperature sender changed...(Y)
8. Possibly remove the plug and clean the contacts on the ECU plug and firmly push back in place.
9. Cleaned all three main earthing points and check the engine earth to battery
10. Checked the black & white wire in the bullet connector that runs from the dizzy under the AFM
The list could go on and on and...
all of these can have the same symptom but what you ideally need to do is if you have put a new part on and it hasn't made a difference then put the old one back on...Tick it off...move on....Check the AFM plug and again clean with a good electrical lube...also the injector resistor pack.(The small grey box on the N/S inner wing) ..can give a hesitation if the plug is loose...they are a tad anyway by construction but a couple of large cable ties hold it in place...
Something we sometime miss is what may seem like a heat running issue could actually be a loose connection that moves at a certain point on your journey, especially if you have a set route..or routine...Just ruling out a shot in the dark...;)
Being methodical...testing with a multi-meter and not scatter gunning will get you further than you think...The wire colours on my coolant temperature switch picture is from a 1987 350i S2...a couple of years later the colour changed...You could carefully remove the boot from the coolant temp sensor to see if any wire is out or twisted together but it may be best testing the resistances....do not hold the meter on the sensors for too long as it can destroy the contacts.
This is great for values and how to's...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
So before we go off to another place what has been done so far....(sorry for missing any related threads)
1. New spark plugs?...what type?
2. New spark plug leads with extra long king lead?
3. New rotor arm?
4. New dizzy cap?
5. New coil?
6. Cleaned or new air filter?
7. Coolant temperature sender changed...(Y)
8. Possibly remove the plug and clean the contacts on the ECU plug and firmly push back in place.
9. Cleaned all three main earthing points and check the engine earth to battery
10. Checked the black & white wire in the bullet connector that runs from the dizzy under the AFM
The list could go on and on and...
all of these can have the same symptom but what you ideally need to do is if you have put a new part on and it hasn't made a difference then put the old one back on...Tick it off...move on....Check the AFM plug and again clean with a good electrical lube...also the injector resistor pack.(The small grey box on the N/S inner wing) ..can give a hesitation if the plug is loose...they are a tad anyway by construction but a couple of large cable ties hold it in place...
Something we sometime miss is what may seem like a heat running issue could actually be a loose connection that moves at a certain point on your journey, especially if you have a set route..or routine...Just ruling out a shot in the dark...;)
Being methodical...testing with a multi-meter and not scatter gunning will get you further than you think...The wire colours on my coolant temperature switch picture is from a 1987 350i S2...a couple of years later the colour changed...You could carefully remove the boot from the coolant temp sensor to see if any wire is out or twisted together but it may be best testing the resistances....do not hold the meter on the sensors for too long as it can destroy the contacts.
This is great for values and how to's...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
Edited by mrzigazaga on Thursday 19th April 22:58
Edited by mrzigazaga on Thursday 19th April 23:00
Had another play this weekend and still no joy .
Plugs changed to bpr6es first and also tried b7ecs gapped to 0.9 mm both new
Tried new leads from powerspark with long king lead also now put old ones back on decent quality
New coil from powers park gel filled .
New cts sensor
New ignition module
New cap and rotor
Cleaned earths on rear of engine can't find other one though .
Haven't cleaned ecu or checked wiring yet has ran out of time, do I have to cut shroud on cts plug to check it .
Don't think its anything coming loose because I ran it on tick over up to temp and it played up without moving .
Checked in the dark for arcing couldn't see any
Anyway I'll keep trying thanks everyone for your help so far
Trace
Plugs changed to bpr6es first and also tried b7ecs gapped to 0.9 mm both new
Tried new leads from powerspark with long king lead also now put old ones back on decent quality
New coil from powers park gel filled .
New cts sensor
New ignition module
New cap and rotor
Cleaned earths on rear of engine can't find other one though .
Haven't cleaned ecu or checked wiring yet has ran out of time, do I have to cut shroud on cts plug to check it .
Don't think its anything coming loose because I ran it on tick over up to temp and it played up without moving .
Checked in the dark for arcing couldn't see any
Anyway I'll keep trying thanks everyone for your help so far
Trace
Edited by trace A on Sunday 22 April 19:17
If the electrics check out ok, it could be the fuel side. Overheating fuel pump? Fuel pressure? Injectors etc. If all that checks out ok it could point towards worn cams maybe, metal expands with heat etc.? Keith I believe had a similar problem with one of his wedges. I don’t know what’s already been done to the engine but it looks like trial and error search of everything. Have you done a compression check?
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
trace A said:
Haven't cleaned ecu or checked wiring yet has ran out of time, do I have to cut shroud on cts plug to check it .
No...It clips in at one end and is pushed into place....there is a flat clip tab that holds it in place..There should be a bunch of earths attached to the N/S front suspension turret, just below the body line in the engine bay.
Might be worth removing the distributor cap and rotor arm then carefully remove the dust cap...get some good quality electrical lube/cleaner and spray a healthy bit into the opening of the distributor, re-fit parts putting a little dab of motor oil on the rotor arm spindle...leave for an hour and then try it...sometimes the bob weights can stick...
Did a bit more checking and cleaning today , checked black and white wire ,afm plug , dizzy etc . Took off ecu plug and replaced . Took it out and tried just going slow and seems to last a bit longer soon has I put my boot down it came back . I can get it to idle if I fettle throttle a bit .
Wandering now if it's fueling I can't hear pump even when I turned on ignition perhaps it's not getting enough fuel or maybe needs a new filter . Anybody now if they should hear pump and what filter size is , outlet etc
Cheers
Wandering now if it's fueling I can't hear pump even when I turned on ignition perhaps it's not getting enough fuel or maybe needs a new filter . Anybody now if they should hear pump and what filter size is , outlet etc
Cheers
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