Discussion
that could not be any simpler, just take a relay that is controlled by the hatch buttons the factory is supplying.
I do not remember if these have been NO or NC,but I think they must be normally Closed and only if both are open (catch engaged) then
my LED turns off.
This means you would need a relay that is closing the circuit for the starter cable once both catches are engaged.
So essentially the relay would be engaged when ignition is on and catches open and disengaged when catches are closed (regular driving position)
Just use a relay that is SPDT (single pole double throw)
I can make a wire diagram if anybody is interested. It would be no problem to integrate this in the existing wire loom.
I do not remember if these have been NO or NC,but I think they must be normally Closed and only if both are open (catch engaged) then
my LED turns off.
This means you would need a relay that is closing the circuit for the starter cable once both catches are engaged.
So essentially the relay would be engaged when ignition is on and catches open and disengaged when catches are closed (regular driving position)
Just use a relay that is SPDT (single pole double throw)
I can make a wire diagram if anybody is interested. It would be no problem to integrate this in the existing wire loom.
crafty said:
^^^ similar concept to a motorbike.
Wondering why there's a priest in the bottom corner - read here
http://xjbikes.blogspot.com/2009/01/how-to-test-yo...
Wondering why there's a priest in the bottom corner - read here
http://xjbikes.blogspot.com/2009/01/how-to-test-yo...
UltimaCH said:
spatz said:
It would be no problem to integrate this in the existing wire loom.
The microswitch + LED system is OK but can still be missed whereas a very annoying buzzer going off in the cockpit is not easily missed or ignored.
Steve
For info, my crash seems not to have been a rear clip failure, although this is not recorded on the track videos, I believe a rear drive shaft failed maybe exacerbated by my moving the engine 2cm back in the chassis to fit in the supercharger I used. I know both clips were fully engaged as I clearly remember checking these after a bit of engine tinkering before going back on track prior to the crash.
Only help I can offer is to remember, it's only nuts and bolts, they can be replaced, people are not so easy to rebuild. Hopefully you were insured.
Only help I can offer is to remember, it's only nuts and bolts, they can be replaced, people are not so easy to rebuild. Hopefully you were insured.
Good to note, however I think my idea of not being able to move off if the Clip is not fully engaged will give confidence to the driver and passenger!
It can easily be rigged to make sure the three states can be handled:
1. If the handbrake is engaged, but not the clips, then the car ignition is on and can be started.
2. If the handbrake is dis-engaged whilst the clip is also, then the ign circuit is shut off...Car stops
3. If the Handbrake is disengaged and the Clips are shut, then the ign is ON and the car can be driven.
Diag please?
cheers
It can easily be rigged to make sure the three states can be handled:
1. If the handbrake is engaged, but not the clips, then the car ignition is on and can be started.
2. If the handbrake is dis-engaged whilst the clip is also, then the ign circuit is shut off...Car stops
3. If the Handbrake is disengaged and the Clips are shut, then the ign is ON and the car can be driven.
Diag please?
cheers
Steve_D said:
The only drawback is that you can't now start the engine with the rear clip open.
The microswitch + LED system is OK but can still be missed whereas a very annoying buzzer going off in the cockpit is not easily missed or ignored.
Steve
yep professor that is absolutley right, but there is a fix to this, for service reason it is possible to engage the catches by using a screwdriver, soThe microswitch + LED system is OK but can still be missed whereas a very annoying buzzer going off in the cockpit is not easily missed or ignored.
Steve
when both are closed you could have clip open and start the engine. And you could not close the bonnet at all without releasing the catches first. So could actually work quite well in practice.
If this issue worries you why not just install x2 solinoids (sp?) that fire safety pins through the main body tub and the rear clip flange? They could be triggerd by the ignition switch. Or be switched to engage/disengage as required.
These would be belt & braces if the rear clip does try to lift the pins would prevent it from opening.
You could still employ the current latches to actually hold the clip closed and have the warning micro switches.
Just a thought
These would be belt & braces if the rear clip does try to lift the pins would prevent it from opening.
You could still employ the current latches to actually hold the clip closed and have the warning micro switches.
Just a thought
You could add a dragster type parachute fired when the rear clip starts to open. The sudden jolt would throw the clip closed and then you could fire explosive bolts to release the chute and continue your journey without stopping.
Having been flippant about it I know I will now have a "clip opening moment" in the future!!!
Paul
Having been flippant about it I know I will now have a "clip opening moment" in the future!!!
Paul
V8 Vum is right, you can rig it so you can start the engine with the clip open, much like you can start a bike with the side stand still down, the moment you put it in gear it cuts the engine.
You can do the same with the rear clip, you can start the engine with the rear clip open but the moment you release the handbrake it cuts the engine.
Very simple and a good safety, it's all very well saying "just remember to clip them properly" but just like motorbikes, people still try and ride off with the side stand down, I've done the same, it happens.
You can do the same with the rear clip, you can start the engine with the rear clip open but the moment you release the handbrake it cuts the engine.
Very simple and a good safety, it's all very well saying "just remember to clip them properly" but just like motorbikes, people still try and ride off with the side stand down, I've done the same, it happens.
If the GTR can be rebuilt - and I hope it can, then switches on the latches will be a certainty! The buzzer seems the best idea. Thanks to all the support I've received from people on here and also the factory. Hopefully the insurance will make a determination soon and I can move things forward. Watch this space
Liam
Liam
Gulf LS3 said:
Do you think its wise to be talking about this on an open forum?? Insuring Ultimas is becoming harder and harder and after a chat with Hegarty last year this is one of the reasons why!!
I think people having accidents in Ultima's and the impact on insurance usually has far more to do with power to skill ratio and dodgy road conditions than the canopy opening.As said, the factory supply a latch warning kit, so no reason not to fit it really?
Insurers reluctance to provide policies is down to the specialist nature and value of the cars and the state of the general insurance market IMHO
Let's keep this in proportion guys. Whilst it 'can' happen, taking care to ensure the catches are fastened will ensure that it doesn't.
Fit the warning system if you're worried about it.
Re. the upload issue - no idea? Will check with the PH IT bods and see what gives
Edited by Stig on Friday 1st July 10:14
V8 Vum said:
Thanks Mate!
Dolly - Trolley OK?
Keith
It's doing a sterling job mate! Just a shame it's not a GTR chassis on it - but I will keep it to hand once the seven is done to serve again Dolly - Trolley OK?
Keith
Uploaded these to test thumbnsaps - seems to be fine now?
How time flies... this was Charlie when I built the Can-Am
and now!
Edited by Stig on Friday 1st July 10:59
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