SBC rockerbox gaskets

[BobE]

I need to remove the rockerbox covers on my American Speed SBC as I want to check the valve clearances and also replace one of the cover studs that a previous owner/garage has helpfully sheared off. Where do you recommend getting replacement gaskets from in the U.K. - are there reinforced types?
Thanks for your help!

[GTRMikie]

Real Steel?

[BobE]

GTRMikie said:

Real Steel?

Thanks Mike I'll give them a try - they seem to have several different options from cork to elastomer coated steel.

[V8Dom]

buy the blue rubber sandwich ones(have alloy inbetween)
i ve used for years.. reuseable.. dont need sealant

[crossram]

We call it a "valve cover" on a SBC a rocker box would be Joan Jetts pussy..................... cat

Edited by crossram on Friday 30th June 08:11

[crossram]

We call it a "valve cover" on a SBC a rocker box would be Joan Jett's pussy..................... cat

Edited by crossram on Friday 30th June 08:16

[confusionhunter]

Bought some Morosso ones for my SBC from Real steel part BY93020 Silicon over steel frame came to 48.91 inc P&P & VAT.

[BobE]

confusionhunter said:

Bought some Morosso ones for my SBC from Real steel part BY93020 Silicon over steel frame came to 48.91 inc P&P & VAT.

Thanks - I've now got the parts and they look great compared to the cork and black gunge sealant that's already fitted. I've now 'just' got to get the broken stud out of the head... Small cold chisel, followed by left hand drill if that doesn't work and then a square extractor as a last resort. I don't like using the latter after having had one shear off many years ago when replacing the rear subframe in a classic Mini. You're in big problems if that happens!

[Evolution-ism]

BobE said:

Thanks - I've now got the parts and they look great compared to the cork and black gunge sealant that's already fitted. I've now 'just' got to get the broken stud out of the head... Small cold chisel, followed by left hand drill if that doesn't work and then a square extractor as a last resort. I don't like using the latter after having had one shear off many years ago when replacing the rear subframe in a classic Mini. You're in big problems if that happens!

I remember someone on the VOA Viper forum, that worked on aircraft restoration > would heat up paraffin wax on steel studs stuck in aluminum (wax would penetrate way down in threads). This would let them remove very old stuck studs. Check my statement carefully in case I did not remember exactly.

[BobE]

Evolution-ism said:

BobE said:

Thanks - I've now got the parts and they look great compared to the cork and black gunge sealant that's already fitted. I've now 'just' got to get the broken stud out of the head... Small cold chisel, followed by left hand drill if that doesn't work and then a square extractor as a last resort. I don't like using the latter after having had one shear off many years ago when replacing the rear subframe in a classic Mini. You're in big problems if that happens!

I remember someone on the VOA Viper forum, that worked on aircraft restoration > would heat up paraffin wax on steel studs stuck in aluminum (wax would penetrate way down in threads). This would let them remove very old stuck studs. Check my statement carefully in case I did not remember exactly.

I used WD40 over a couple of days. I had to remove the exhaust system on that side and after shocking the tiny amount of stud sticking out of the head with a small cold chisel I managed to extract it using a large pair of pliers on the protruding part. I've used a piece of stainless stud to replace the broken part and new nyloc nuts. One disconcerting aspect was the amount of loose sealant on the old cork gasket inside the covers - not something you want to go down into the oilways. The hardest part of the work was getting the exhaust manifold bolts back into the head. I think the manifold has distorted slightly over the years - maybe stress relief of the welds. I took great care not to cross thread a bolt into the head but had to apply pressure on the manifold pipe flanges to get everything to line up.