g50 reverse gear adjustment ?
Discussion
Hi folks,
I am working on my new gear selector mechanism with no good results so quite disappointed
, so far only little improvement over the factory setup, mainly because the selection of the reverse gear is requiring immense force. I wonder if there is any adjustment for that in the box. I assume there is a srping involved that is mainly there to avoid accidentially putting the reverse when selecting first coming from second.
My main target was to put the gears closes together for more precision but that is inherently increasing the force which is now making it almost impossible to select reverse gear.
So if anybody knows how to reduce the resistance presented when selecting reverse that would make my day
I am working on my new gear selector mechanism with no good results so quite disappointed
, so far only little improvement over the factory setup, mainly because the selection of the reverse gear is requiring immense force. I wonder if there is any adjustment for that in the box. I assume there is a srping involved that is mainly there to avoid accidentially putting the reverse when selecting first coming from second. My main target was to put the gears closes together for more precision but that is inherently increasing the force which is now making it almost impossible to select reverse gear.
So if anybody knows how to reduce the resistance presented when selecting reverse that would make my day
The device you are looking for is known as a 'Detent mechanism'. There will be a detent plunger and detent spring.
I've not stripped mine but believe it to be in the side of the 'box tail about 150mm from the back end. I may be wrong and this is not the detent.
What you should be looking to do is find a lighter replacement spring. It is must unlikely for it to be 'adjustable' in the truest sense.
Steve
I've not stripped mine but believe it to be in the side of the 'box tail about 150mm from the back end. I may be wrong and this is not the detent.
What you should be looking to do is find a lighter replacement spring. It is must unlikely for it to be 'adjustable' in the truest sense.
Steve
ok have called a G50 guru and he tells me that in the box is a ball that is pressing with a spring on the reverse selector and it requires approx 6 hours to make this easier.......so not really an option if I take in consideration that I have to remove the box from the car and, and, and......
Probably the next thing I will try is to use a spring that is helping to select the reverse with the additional problem that all the other gears would require more force than before....I am stuck
Probably the next thing I will try is to use a spring that is helping to select the reverse with the additional problem that all the other gears would require more force than before....I am stuck
actually it is quite hard to get the box in reverse even if you do it right at the box with the lever you have seen in the pics.
I am aware that if I increase the travel at the back that I need less force, but then you are running in the problem that you cannot find the fith anymore....?
I am thinking about putting a spring that will help with the reverse and increase force for the other gears, not a big deal so worth a try.
I am aware that if I increase the travel at the back that I need less force, but then you are running in the problem that you cannot find the fith anymore....?
I am thinking about putting a spring that will help with the reverse and increase force for the other gears, not a big deal so worth a try.
Hi mine was also like that having to take a sort of run up across the gate to get go into reverse , and between myself , a couple of specialist, and the guy who rebuilt the box we all recond this was why my selector rod ( the one that goes from outside the box to deep inside it) snapped at/on one of the 3 indents just inside the box , the rod is designed to push and pull and is not designed to be twisted ,in a stresfull way , so really in the long run ( the rod cost 150 GBP ) and the inconvenience of if / when it does snap,it might be worth getting it looked at ?? just a thought 
hI GUYS: I have to say that all of this seems a bit of a pain in the tail. I know that you are already down the road with the factory linkage and to reverse back to a cable setup at this time would be a pain and exspensive. But for those of you not yet commited I strongly suggest taking a look at CMS cable shifter. I have been running this system for 2.5 years now and it works very well. Lee
I suspect that problems with the reverse gear selection must be due to the rod setup...... it works fine in a Porsche... in a Porsche its pretty much a straight shaft.
Mine is a side shift car - I was careful to make sure all the joints were in the same orientation. Mine has always shifted very nicely.
Jeff's is a centre shift car, he was having problems with his shift and after comparing setups it seemed his alignment wasnt quite right at the last joint on the box. After adjusting the alignment it was a significant improvement.
Is everyone on here experiencing problems using centre shift setups?
Uwe - do you have any pics of your box with the standard setup?
Mine is a side shift car - I was careful to make sure all the joints were in the same orientation. Mine has always shifted very nicely.
Jeff's is a centre shift car, he was having problems with his shift and after comparing setups it seemed his alignment wasnt quite right at the last joint on the box. After adjusting the alignment it was a significant improvement.
Is everyone on here experiencing problems using centre shift setups?
Uwe - do you have any pics of your box with the standard setup?
I suppose the issue is your trying to turn the rod which is only 20mm diameter with a length of 5+ feet... against a Indent that was only supposed to have a rod length of 6"....
To be honest the std setup all be it a little awkward in reverse was fine most of the time compared to most GT40 setups...
But a cable change box is always going to be easier to setup than a shaft change box...
To be honest the std setup all be it a little awkward in reverse was fine most of the time compared to most GT40 setups...
But a cable change box is always going to be easier to setup than a shaft change box...
OK GUYS - TERRIFIC NEWS ! IT WORKS !
Yesterday I worked again on my gear selector and I decided to use more of the lever so force is less, that was the whole idea from scratch anyway, get rid of all the play and stress on the G50 rod that you have with the factory setup.
Although I had mud on the streets I went for a drive since I was so excited and believe it or not I accidentially went from second in fifth 3 times, and before that the fifth gear was very difficult to find.
Reverse gear is now very precise you can feel the detent and with the longer lever position it is now not too difficult to engage. Actually if you go one more position down in the setup it should be even easier.
As you can see I tried to develop this is a retrofit, there might be a even better solution if you weld a piece at the gearbox support so you can run both rods in the same height. I am pretty sure you can fit this to any ultima that has a G50 no matter if it is center or right shift.
I will make a video when the wheather allows it so you can judge by yourself.
If there is an interest I can have a few sets made of these parts, the aluminium is very strong lightweight almg5 with 450N/mm2 and the rod is stainless steel.
The levers are running in special bearings to there is virtually no friction for the rotational movement of the G50 rod.
FINAL AND WORKING SETUP
Yesterday I worked again on my gear selector and I decided to use more of the lever so force is less, that was the whole idea from scratch anyway, get rid of all the play and stress on the G50 rod that you have with the factory setup.
Although I had mud on the streets I went for a drive since I was so excited and believe it or not I accidentially went from second in fifth 3 times, and before that the fifth gear was very difficult to find.
Reverse gear is now very precise you can feel the detent and with the longer lever position it is now not too difficult to engage. Actually if you go one more position down in the setup it should be even easier.
As you can see I tried to develop this is a retrofit, there might be a even better solution if you weld a piece at the gearbox support so you can run both rods in the same height. I am pretty sure you can fit this to any ultima that has a G50 no matter if it is center or right shift.
I will make a video when the wheather allows it so you can judge by yourself.
If there is an interest I can have a few sets made of these parts, the aluminium is very strong lightweight almg5 with 450N/mm2 and the rod is stainless steel.
The levers are running in special bearings to there is virtually no friction for the rotational movement of the G50 rod.
FINAL AND WORKING SETUP
crafty said:
I suspect that problems with the reverse gear selection must be due to the rod setup...... it works fine in a Porsche... in a Porsche its pretty much a straight shaft.
Mine is a side shift car - I was careful to make sure all the joints were in the same orientation. Mine has always shifted very nicely.
Jeff's is a centre shift car, he was having problems with his shift and after comparing setups it seemed his alignment wasnt quite right at the last joint on the box. After adjusting the alignment it was a significant improvement.
Is everyone on here experiencing problems using centre shift setups?
Uwe - do you have any pics of your box with the standard setup?
here a picture of my original setupMine is a side shift car - I was careful to make sure all the joints were in the same orientation. Mine has always shifted very nicely.
Jeff's is a centre shift car, he was having problems with his shift and after comparing setups it seemed his alignment wasnt quite right at the last joint on the box. After adjusting the alignment it was a significant improvement.
Is everyone on here experiencing problems using centre shift setups?
Uwe - do you have any pics of your box with the standard setup?
yes crafty you got the weak points in the system, however it is was designed to be a retrofit not requiring any changes on the car.
If you weld the support rail for the 2 ball heads to the gear box support and increase the distance between the 2 of them even better.
In my case if would have required to remove part of the gear linkage and shorten it and I was too lazy to do that.
One thing to consider is that it would in my case create a steeper angle that is probably introducing new problems.
However these 2 ball heads only need to take very little stress and keep the rod in parallel to the gear box rod. Good greasing is helping !
If you do extent the fixing points and use a longer rail it would be smart to run the linkage rod in the same height as the gear box rod
and then you would have made it 100%. If I ever have to work on the linkage again I probably will do that. If however the next few 1000 kilometers are
ok why should I ?
The whole support for the 2 ball heads is attaced to the gearbox support M12 rod so not one at the chassis and one at box.
It is most unlikely that the gear box will pull the gear out when moving as the whole gear linkage will move with the box.
Yes I have been driving the car with this setup on a muddy road which required a lot of cleaning afterwards.
Bottom line, this not so perfect arrangement has turned out very driveable, as mentioned before accidentially selected 5th for 3 times, which has
been a different story with the factory setup.
BTW the single bolt is M12 rod for the gear box support and if you tighten that up, that is quite solid.
In fact I am quite astonished that you could pinpoint the weak points looking at the setup, you are for sure a better mechanical engineer than me. I agree
this is not my field of expertise.
If you weld the support rail for the 2 ball heads to the gear box support and increase the distance between the 2 of them even better.
In my case if would have required to remove part of the gear linkage and shorten it and I was too lazy to do that.
One thing to consider is that it would in my case create a steeper angle that is probably introducing new problems.
However these 2 ball heads only need to take very little stress and keep the rod in parallel to the gear box rod. Good greasing is helping !
If you do extent the fixing points and use a longer rail it would be smart to run the linkage rod in the same height as the gear box rod
and then you would have made it 100%. If I ever have to work on the linkage again I probably will do that. If however the next few 1000 kilometers are
ok why should I ?
The whole support for the 2 ball heads is attaced to the gearbox support M12 rod so not one at the chassis and one at box.
It is most unlikely that the gear box will pull the gear out when moving as the whole gear linkage will move with the box.
Yes I have been driving the car with this setup on a muddy road which required a lot of cleaning afterwards.
Bottom line, this not so perfect arrangement has turned out very driveable, as mentioned before accidentially selected 5th for 3 times, which has
been a different story with the factory setup.
BTW the single bolt is M12 rod for the gear box support and if you tighten that up, that is quite solid.
In fact I am quite astonished that you could pinpoint the weak points looking at the setup, you are for sure a better mechanical engineer than me. I agree
this is not my field of expertise.
Edited by spatz on Sunday 27th February 13:23
not possible if you ask me think about it, if the gear box is moving,the rod can follow the movement, you can have a look at your gear lever in the front it will tell you how much foward movement and twisting there is, if there is any.
If the gear is under load is not very easy to pull out anyway.
the question is how much movement can there be ?, the gearbox is attached firmly to the engine and the ls7 mounts looked like really stiff rubber to me.
If the gear is under load is not very easy to pull out anyway.
the question is how much movement can there be ?, the gearbox is attached firmly to the engine and the ls7 mounts looked like really stiff rubber to me.
There's a post here with a simple setup on the thread below
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-powertrain-tr...
The exhaust is in the way in his picture .... I expect he's done it the way Ive drawn it below.
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-powertrain-tr...
The exhaust is in the way in his picture .... I expect he's done it the way Ive drawn it below.
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