What’s your Hi-Fi set up? spec and pictures please

[gizlaroc]

Have a look on etsy.com, loads of people will build to spec at much keener prices than your £800 even.

[T1547]

Fermit and Sarah said:

Could I ask where you got your TV/ hi-fi unit from? Ours is very similar, from Habitat. The very one we wanted was from a place called Holdens in Newark, using all real wood. The suggested cost went from £800 to £2000+ when we gave them the dimensions, more than we were prepared to spend. If there were someone else who did a similar one, but of a nicer quality (nothing wrong with ours, but I'd prefer one without veneer in parts) I'd welcome the chance to research.

Mine’s also from Habitat.

[Sford]

TimAla said:

You've shown me yours, so I suppose I should show you mine. Currently transitioning from Parasound to PS Audio.

Just to reiterate what others have said, that's a stunning setup. I'm a fan of the Kef sound and have listened to blades at a number of different locations and love them.

[Ballistic]

TimAla said:

You've shown me yours, so I suppose I should show you mine. Currently transitioning from Parasound to PS Audio.

That's what I call a hifi system!
I'd be interested to know what all of the boxes are behind the blades?
I've got the Kef Blade2 in my system and they do sound remarkable.

[emss]

Hi,

Here's my home audio system, currently in a state of flux...
- DIY high efficiency speakers (15" woofer in a BR enclosure, 1" compression driver loaded by a hypex horn).
- Logitech SqueezeBox 3 with regulated power supply
- Atoll PR100 preamp
- Asian Naim NAP 140 clone amp.
- "Hifi, câbles & Compagnie" or Gotham wiring

It sounds fine, but some replacements are planned
- HD Squeezebox clone (RPi 3 running Picore player, Kali reclocker & I2S output module) & R2R Dac (Audio-GD)
- Mono blocks based on Avondale modules (I was a big fan of Olive NAP 135)

So are refinements on speakers :
- Fostex T95 tweeters
- Stands (to raise the enclosures by 15 cm)
- Varnish on the 15" cone
- Smooth the horn inside surface

Some pictures



Éric

Edited by emss on Sunday 28th October 18:27

[Crackie]

emss said:

Hi,

Here's my home audio system, currently in a state of flux...
- DIY high efficiency speakers (15" woofer in a BR enclosure, 1" compression driver loaded by a hypex horn).
- Logitech SqueezeBox 3 with regulated power supply
- Atoll PR100 preamp
- Asian Naim NAP 140 clone amp.
- "Hifi, câbles & Compagnie" or Gotham wiring

It sounds fine, but some replacements are planned
- HD Squeezebox clone (RPi 3 running Picore player, Kali reclocker & I2S output module) & R2R Dac (Audio-GD)
- Mono blocks based on Avondale modules (I was a big fan of Olive NAP 135)

So are refinements on speakers :
- Fostex T95 tweeters
- Stands (to raise the enclosures by 15 cm)
- Varnish on the 15" cone
- Smooth the horn inside surface

Some pictures



Éric

Edited by emss on Sunday 28th October 18:27

Great stuff....how do you handle the x-over from bass to horn? Level matching, frequency of x-over, slope of crossover(s). Is it passive or active?

[TimAla]

Thanks very much for the kind comments above about my Blade-based stereo. It's also very blue.

This is an interesting thread, as it not only examples some very nice systems, but it's also pleasing to have these discussed and appreciated outside the confines of the narrow (minded) audio world; i.e. we're on a car site, folks. Thus, people don't seem to get over-excited about criticising, envying or otherwise disparaging others' efforts either from the position of their own dogma, or maybe ignorance. We're all at a different point in the journey; my system didn't just happen, it took a long time to get there. I can look at and engage with what others have achieved, or indeed where they might have chosen to end their journey, and share vicariously their enthusiasm and enjoyment.

Of course, we're probably all likely to get steamed up over cars, but who wouldn't?

As for all the boxes, yes, there are a few. OK, the mains arrive via a clean supply and very high quality cabling to a pair of Audioquest Niagara 7000 conditioners, and from there, again via high quality cabling to the equipment. These mains cables are Audioquest Tornado. Mains power is the lifeblood of the system.

The five silver boxes are all PS Audio: Directstream Memory Player, DAC, BHK Pre and BHK power amps. The little black box is for Dirac room correction. All interconnect cabling is Audioquest. From the power amps to the speakers and KEF Reference subs are two pairs of JPS Aluminata cables. All equipment and speakers are isolated by IsoAcoustics kit.

Cabling, power conditioning and isolation approach the cost of the electronics and speakers, which is probably too much in relative terms, but for my money the electronics and speakers in this configuration outperform systems I've heard at multiples of this cost, so I've based the system 'back end' budget on performance goals rather than '20%' or such normal calculation.

System is set up for near field listening in a room large enough to effectively not have a rear wall (it's 30+ feet behind the listening position). This, together with the other distant boundaries is what the Blades were born for. Almost any full-range stereo speakers can benefit immensely from subs; I favour the REL 25 line array (which I have in my cinema) but it's so immense a system as to look ridiculous. PS Audio build the best 'real world' priced kit; Dirac and unit isolation are benefits but I wouldn't twist someone's arm.

PS old photo does not show new PS Audio power amps. The Parasound monoblocs are wonderful in their own right; I'd never swap them out of my cinema.

Edited by TimAla on Monday 29th October 14:44

[emss]

Crackie said:

Great stuff....how do you handle the x-over from bass to horn? Level matching, frequency of x-over, slope of crossover(s). Is it passive or active?

Thanks.
In a past iteration, X-Over was active (Behringer DCX2496), 12 dB slope, approximately 600 Hz, time aligned and level matched, amps were then Hafler TA1600.
Now, X-Over is passive, slope and frequency stayed the same, compression driver level can be adjusted via an attenuator.
In both cases, a PC, a measurement microphone and a dedicated software are used for initial setup, and then, the best audio measurement device, SWMBO, helps me to refine

Edited by emss on Monday 29th October 20:54

[miniman]

TimAla said:

Thanks very much for the kind comments above about my Blade-based stereo. It's also very blue.

This is an interesting thread, as it not only examples some very nice systems, but it's also pleasing to have these discussed and appreciated outside the confines of the narrow (minded) audio world; i.e. we're on a car site, folks. Thus, people don't seem to get over-excited about criticising, envying or otherwise disparaging others' efforts either from the position of their own dogma, or maybe ignorance. We're all at a different point in the journey; my system didn't just happen, it took a long time to get there. I can look at and engage with what others have achieved, or indeed where they might have chosen to end their journey, and share vicariously their enthusiasm and enjoyment.

Of course, we're probably all likely to get steamed up over cars, but who wouldn't?

As for all the boxes, yes, there are a few. OK, the mains arrive via a clean supply and very high quality cabling to a pair of Audioquest Niagara 7000 conditioners, and from there, again via high quality cabling to the equipment. These mains cables are Audioquest Tornado. Mains power is the lifeblood of the system.

The five silver boxes are all PS Audio: Directstream Memory Player, DAC, BHK Pre and BHK power amps. The little black box is for Dirac room correction. All interconnect cabling is Audioquest. From the power amps to the speakers and KEF Reference subs are two pairs of JPS Aluminata cables. All equipment and speakers are isolated by IsoAcoustics kit.

Cabling, power conditioning and isolation approach the cost of the electronics and speakers, which is probably too much in relative terms, but for my money the electronics and speakers in this configuration outperform systems I've heard at multiples of this cost, so I've based the system 'back end' budget on performance goals rather than '20%' or such normal calculation.

System is set up for near field listening in a room large enough to effectively not have a rear wall (it's 30+ feet behind the listening position). This, together with the other distant boundaries is what the Blades were born for. Almost any full-range stereo speakers can benefit immensely from subs; I favour the REL 25 line array (which I have in my cinema) but it's so immense a system as to look ridiculous. PS Audio build the best 'real world' priced kit; Dirac and unit isolation are benefits but I wouldn't twist someone's arm.

PS old photo does not show new PS Audio power amps. The Parasound monoblocs are wonderful in their own right; I'd never swap them out of my cinema.

Edited by TimAla on Monday 29th October 14:44

[RowntreesCabana]

Thorens TD160 Super turntable with an SME 3009 Series II arm and Ortofon Red cart
Meridian M30 active speakers from 1988 (these were sold at $1625 back then)
Spendor BC1 speakers (excellent for jazz and acoustic rock)
Sony STR-6800 receiver (the top of the range receiver from Sony in Europe in the late 70s, during the height of the amp wars, built like a tank)
Logitech Squeezebox Classic V3 for digital streaming, output to a bespoke DAC
Technics CD player (not sure what model it is from memory.

As you can see I like the vintage stuff.

Will get a photo up when I get a chance.

[Crackie]

TimAla said:

Thanks very much for the kind comments above about my Blade-based stereo. It's also very blue.

This is an interesting thread, as it not only examples some very nice systems, but it's also pleasing to have these discussed and appreciated outside the confines of the narrow (minded) audio world; i.e. we're on a car site, folks. Thus, people don't seem to get over-excited about criticising, envying or otherwise disparaging others' efforts either from the position of their own dogma, or maybe ignorance. We're all at a different point in the journey; my system didn't just happen, it took a long time to get there. I can look at and engage with what others have achieved, or indeed where they might have chosen to end their journey, and share vicariously their enthusiasm and enjoyment.

Of course, we're probably all likely to get steamed up over cars, but who wouldn't?

As for all the boxes, yes, there are a few. OK, the mains arrive via a clean supply and very high quality cabling to a pair of Audioquest Niagara 7000 conditioners, and from there, again via high quality cabling to the equipment. These mains cables are Audioquest Tornado. Mains power is the lifeblood of the system.

The five silver boxes are all PS Audio: Directstream Memory Player, DAC, BHK Pre and BHK power amps. The little black box is for Dirac room correction. All interconnect cabling is Audioquest. From the power amps to the speakers and KEF Reference subs are two pairs of JPS Aluminata cables. All equipment and speakers are isolated by IsoAcoustics kit.

Cabling, power conditioning and isolation approach the cost of the electronics and speakers, which is probably too much in relative terms, but for my money the electronics and speakers in this configuration outperform systems I've heard at multiples of this cost, so I've based the system 'back end' budget on performance goals rather than '20%' or such normal calculation.

System is set up for near field listening in a room large enough to effectively not have a rear wall (it's 30+ feet behind the listening position). This, together with the other distant boundaries is what the Blades were born for. Almost any full-range stereo speakers can benefit immensely from subs; I favour the REL 25 line array (which I have in my cinema) but it's so immense a system as to look ridiculous. PS Audio build the best 'real world' priced kit; Dirac and unit isolation are benefits but I wouldn't twist someone's arm.

PS old photo does not show new PS Audio power amps. The Parasound monoblocs are wonderful in their own right; I'd never swap them out of my cinema.

Edited by TimAla on Monday 29th October 14:44

Great system.....how do you implement the Dirac, is it a MiniDSP?

[TimAla]

Crackie said:

Great system.....how do you implement the Dirac, is it a MiniDSP?

Yes, that's right. I've been a long term believer in the 'pure signal path' philosophy but DSP is now sufficiently sophisticated to force an exception. Frankly, it is the future of sound reproduction in whatever form. Moreover, you can set the response to your own preferences, which in my case would be a mild 'smile' curve, which works well for the room/system/me. For clarity, 'smile' refers to the shape of the curve, though the listener response in generally similar. Less controversial is the usage of DSP for home cinema, where it's pretty much essential for a serious system.

What some audio people would really be choking on is the use of subs in a stereo. I'd agree with them if they were old fashioned boom boxes designed for explosions and earthquakes, but a really good, tight, modern sub (and preferably two) can transform a good sound system into a great system. I've heard a lot of systems that purported to be great (and were priced to match) which were only good due to lack of properly integrated deep bass response. Apart from anything else, they remove the need for the amp/speakers to be coping with the really power hungry frequencies; each sub in the photo is 1000w active that the amps/Blades don't have to worry about. But there is much else to recommend them. Though perhaps not to the neighbours.

[Crackie]

TimAla said:

Crackie said:

Great system.....how do you implement the Dirac, is it a MiniDSP?

Yes, that's right. I've been a long term believer in the 'pure signal path' philosophy but DSP is now sufficiently sophisticated to force an exception. Frankly, it is the future of sound reproduction in whatever form. Moreover, you can set the response to your own preferences, which in my case would be a mild 'smile' curve, which works well for the room/system/me. For clarity, 'smile' refers to the shape of the curve, though the listener response in generally similar. Less controversial is the usage of DSP for home cinema, where it's pretty much essential for a serious system.

What some audio people would really be choking on is the use of subs in a stereo. I'd agree with them if they were old fashioned boom boxes designed for explosions and earthquakes, but a really good, tight, modern sub (and preferably two) can transform a good sound system into a great system. I've heard a lot of systems that purported to be great (and were priced to match) which were only good due to lack of properly integrated deep bass response. Apart from anything else, they remove the need for the amp/speakers to be coping with the really power hungry frequencies; each sub in the photo is 1000w active that the amps/Blades don't have to worry about. But there is much else to recommend them. Though perhaps not to the neighbours.

MiniDSP are an impressive company; I use a MiniDSP 4x10 as a crossover. Its been handling the crossover, level matching, time alignment and room correction on my active system for a few years.

I agree regarding the use of subs on 2 channel systems; 2 of the 10 channels on the 4x10 run a pair of ULF subs; these only fill in below 30Hz. -3dB point is 14Hz and -6dB is 11Hz.

[TimAla]

Crackie said:

MiniDSP are an impressive company; I use a MiniDSP 4x10 as a crossover. Its been handling the crossover, level matching, time alignment and room correction on my active system for a few years.

I agree regarding the use of subs on 2 channel systems; 2 of the 10 channels on the 4x10 run a pair of ULF subs; these only fill in below 30Hz. -3dB point is 14Hz and -6dB is 11Hz.

You're talking serious subs. Likewise in my multi-channel, similar numbers, and for the most abyssal depths I use underfloor shakers. To be fair, all seriously unpleasant if you're more used to a soundbar. Er, I watch alone.

[Crackie]

TimAla said:

Crackie said:

MiniDSP are an impressive company; I use a MiniDSP 4x10 as a crossover. Its been handling the crossover, level matching, time alignment and room correction on my active system for a few years.

I agree regarding the use of subs on 2 channel systems; 2 of the 10 channels on the 4x10 run a pair of ULF subs; these only fill in below 30Hz. -3dB point is 14Hz and -6dB is 11Hz.

You're talking serious subs. Likewise in my multi-channel, similar numbers, and for the most abyssal depths I use underfloor shakers. To be fair, all seriously unpleasant if you're more used to a soundbar. Er, I watch alone.

I like that. LFs measured on the Richter scale not dB.

This should be fun to play loud on both of your systems........seismic event. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5kL14FPvnY

[Ballistic]

TimAla said:

Quite an array of boxes there, your front room looks like a hifi store! It must sound amazing.

[TimAla]

This is actually the 'dining' room. I figured we used it once a year, at Christmas. An easy negotiation with the Boss, on the basis all other rooms in the house would be cleared of ... boxes. Ultimate plan is to move the electronics behind the screen, but at present they'd just get wet.

[legzr1]

ian996 said:

Nope, but lynch mobs have been known to form when I turn them up (they also make the dials on my electricity meter spin!)

They are a remarkable listen - they are surprisingly transparent and delicate at low levels, but when a dynamic peak hits, they really do give an inkling of the power of real instruments. I have upgraded my CD and speakers twice in the last 20 years, but I've never been tempted away from the KW - I've just tried to address every possible shortcoming. Last thing on the list is to sort the heatsinks which are a bit resonant. High end practice is now to use solid milled blocks - don't think I can retrofit those, so am trying to figure out the best way to damp them.

Since you posted on this thread I’ve been looking around for similar amps to see what’s out there.

I’ve owned some of MFs earlier stuff including the 308 system and spent many hours with friend NuVista and TriVista so I’ve been a fan since the E series (if not keen on their practise of knocking 70% off rrp just months into a product cycle....)

The KWP/1000 combo rarely appears so I forgot about it.

Then, 2 separate systems appear in as many days - one a private sale with recently serviced monoblocks, the other a dealer trade in with a few scratches, priced a little higher but individual PSUs for each of the monoblocks.

Do you have any thoughts on running one PSU between two amps?

[Fermit and Sarah]

Has any one any experience of these (it's a Sennheiser DSP Pro) it's a headphone Pro-Logic processor.



23 years ago I had a brief stint working at Nottingham Hi-Fi Centre (a great place for any Midlander Hi-Fi nuts BTW) and was given a listen to this. It blew my mind, that you could listen to cans, and hear things in front of you, behind you etc. Coupled with my trusty HD600's ideal for the job too.

One came up on the bay for £80, so I impulse bought it.

There's a bit I'm unsure of. I have an Arcam R-DAC (?) headphone amp. My Tag AV3200R doesn't have a headphone port. I've Googled with not much luck, trying to find out if this serves as a headphone amp for music (CD's) too. I saw a friend last night who has a Mourdant Short hi-fi, and she moaned that it doesn't have a headphone port. I figured I could pass it on to her if this will do the job as well.

Edited by Fermit and Sarah on Monday 19th November 10:26

[ian996]

legzr1 said:

Since you posted on this thread I’ve been looking around for similar amps to see what’s out there.

I’ve owned some of MFs earlier stuff including the 308 system and spent many hours with friend NuVista and TriVista so I’ve been a fan since the E series (if not keen on their practise of knocking 70% off rrp just months into a product cycle....)

The KWP/1000 combo rarely appears so I forgot about it.

Then, 2 separate systems appear in as many days - one a private sale with recently serviced monoblocks, the other a dealer trade in with a few scratches, priced a little higher but individual PSUs for each of the monoblocks.

Do you have any thoughts on running one PSU between two amps?

The dual PSU is an interesting one. The standard configuration has two 2KVA transformers (one per channel) in the shared case. I know the dual PSU was a kind of bespoke option, and I imagine it is wired with each of the 2KVA transformers feeding one half of the bridged circuit, so two transformers per monoblock (I'm guessing here - I can't imagine it's just one transformer and a lot of air in each case but, with MF, you never know).

My PSU has been upgraded with a pair of higher quality 3KVA transformers which are absolutely , totally silent (the originals used to hum very slightly on my 245+ volt supply). The original spec does not double output into halved impedence - the twin PSUs might get closer to this, but I have a feeling it would be a theoretical rather than a practical gain in real-world usage!

Musical Fidelity originally pushed the message that it was an advantage to have both channels in one PSU case, as the "zero volts" would be the same for both channels - similar to linking all your casework to a single earth I guess.

I think the serviced Pre-amp might be a bigger benefit than the dual PSU....the 5703 valves are long-lasting, but its probably good to have them replaced as the originals would now be about 15 years old. They are available, but its not a trivial job to replace them, due to each pre-amp channel being contained in its own internal copper case.

Overall, I love the amps - as standard, I don't think they are quite as musical as the big Karan's (and slightly less warm and fluid than the Nu_Vista amps) , but they image like nothing else which may or may not be important to you. For the cost of a 2nd hand pair, I would think they represent sky-high value. Power amps are reputed to be very reliable, with the weak point being the op-amps in the driver stage. I've had mine updated with plug in sockets, so if one goes, its a quick fix. Only real issue I've had with the pre is that the source select can get a bit confused if you leave the pre-amp on all the time (It cycles through inputs when you switch on, but if it doesn't get switched on and off, I think the contacts get a bit dirty.

Only real downside is that they are B*****d heavy - they are a genuine pain to shift around.