Cheap Chinese Amps
Discussion
Don't waste your money.
Personally I'd pick up a cheap active sub (lots appear on avforums starting at under £100) and use until the one you want appears/is affordable - buy wisely then move it on once the replacement is sourced.
A true 20W would probably just get a bass driver moving, those cheapie Chinese amps will be nowhere near a true 20W.
Personally I'd pick up a cheap active sub (lots appear on avforums starting at under £100) and use until the one you want appears/is affordable - buy wisely then move it on once the replacement is sourced.
A true 20W would probably just get a bass driver moving, those cheapie Chinese amps will be nowhere near a true 20W.
legzr1 said:
Don't waste your money.
Personally I'd pick up a cheap active sub (lots appear on avforums starting at under £100) and use until the one you want appears/is affordable - buy wisely then move it on once the replacement is sourced.
A true 20W would probably just get a bass driver moving, those cheapie Chinese amps will be nowhere near a true 20W.
I think it's 20W into 4 ohms or 10 into 8.Personally I'd pick up a cheap active sub (lots appear on avforums starting at under £100) and use until the one you want appears/is affordable - buy wisely then move it on once the replacement is sourced.
A true 20W would probably just get a bass driver moving, those cheapie Chinese amps will be nowhere near a true 20W.
Got a link to the amp?
Doubling down as impedance halfs is normally the preserve of large, well designed power supplies - read expensive!
Not wanting to burst bubbles here but I can't see it working to any decent level whatsoever.
There's a Kef sub being offered at £85 on avforums that would suit far better - there's an excellent chance it will be all you need!
Doubling down as impedance halfs is normally the preserve of large, well designed power supplies - read expensive!
Not wanting to burst bubbles here but I can't see it working to any decent level whatsoever.
There's a Kef sub being offered at £85 on avforums that would suit far better - there's an excellent chance it will be all you need!
much cheapness
I'm not looking earth shattering mega bass, just something to give a bit of background bass
I'm not looking earth shattering mega bass, just something to give a bit of background bass
ooo000ooo said:
much cheapness
I'm not looking earth shattering mega bass, just something to give a bit of background bass
They're great for little near field monitoring (sat on a desktop near a PC for example) driving small speakers to reasonable levels but I think you'd be disappointed with it attempting to drive a passive sub, especially if it's a sealed box. If the sub is ported the idea of trying then returning might be worthwhile.I'm not looking earth shattering mega bass, just something to give a bit of background bass
But..£24 saved not buying it and £24 for your used sub gets you very close to the active Kef sub I mentioned earlier.
https://www.avforums.com/threads/kef-htbc-htc3001....
You may not want to have something so 'primitive' in your setup but one of these would be ideal I think. https://www.amazon.co.uk/WINGONEER-TPA3116D2-chann...
It will supply a genuine 100w into 3 ohms when fed with a 24v power supply. See blue trace figure 25 on page 12 here http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf.
If you use an 18V DC supply ( Laptop supply ) the output will be ideal for your application......output will be 65wpc. Very easy to hook up.
1) Mono Signal in + / - 2) Speaker out + / - 3) Power in + / -
Please note this would be very straight forward for someone who is happy to remove the plug from the power supply and use bare wires to feed the amp circuit board. Some may not be happy to cut the plug off, check the +/- polarity etc. If that is the case, ask a local TV or computer repair shop to verify this for you.
It will supply a genuine 100w into 3 ohms when fed with a 24v power supply. See blue trace figure 25 on page 12 here http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf.
If you use an 18V DC supply ( Laptop supply ) the output will be ideal for your application......output will be 65wpc. Very easy to hook up.
1) Mono Signal in + / - 2) Speaker out + / - 3) Power in + / -
Please note this would be very straight forward for someone who is happy to remove the plug from the power supply and use bare wires to feed the amp circuit board. Some may not be happy to cut the plug off, check the +/- polarity etc. If that is the case, ask a local TV or computer repair shop to verify this for you.
ooo000ooo said:
I prefer bodged instead of primitive.
I like the look of that
I have a couple of old laptop chargers, wire cutters and duct tape.
House insurance should cover the fire damage.
I like the look of that
I have a couple of old laptop chargers, wire cutters and duct tape.
House insurance should cover the fire damage.
The latest chip amps from Texas Instruments, Analog Devices, STMicroelectronics etc are very good and particularly good for bass. Good luck ( and check your insurance premium is up to date )
The first amp went out of stock so I cancelled and bought the cheaper WINGONEER DC 12V-24V TPA3116 D2 100W for a bargain £9.99.
Delivered yesterday and I bodged it together last night. Had a bit of a false start with a dodgy phono cable which made for a lot of hissing and buzzing and not much else but eventually sorted it out. Haven't fiddled too much with it so far but it's providing a bit of bass, which was the aim.
the wife is out to night so will play about with it later, assuming it doesn't set my house on fire before I get home.
Delivered yesterday and I bodged it together last night. Had a bit of a false start with a dodgy phono cable which made for a lot of hissing and buzzing and not much else but eventually sorted it out. Haven't fiddled too much with it so far but it's providing a bit of bass, which was the aim.
the wife is out to night so will play about with it later, assuming it doesn't set my house on fire before I get home.
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