Cannondale 'Headshok'...
Discussion
...anyone got one?
Or know anything about them?
I appear to have just won an ebay auction for one. The only issue is that it's attached to a Cannondale Backroads CAAD2 bicycle. Oh, and it's 130 miles away.
#ebayidiocy
I put in a speculative bid on the bike, thinking I was likely to lose out to a last minute sniper, and now I'm having a mild case of buyer's remorse. The bike is described as "used but works absolutely fine" and from measurements photographed by the seller it ought to be the right size for me. I'm not trying to find ingenious ways to wriggle out of the purchase, but I just want to see if I can find out a bit more about what appears to be a "Headshok" suspension fork.
If only some kind soul had outbid me at the last moment, as they have done on all the items I really wanted to win recently (like Garmin GPS watches), then I could just shrug my shoulders and move on to the next item on my 'watch list'.
So any info about things to look for when riding a Headshok, and any pointers as to maintenance, and hopefully a recommendation of somewhere I can get it serviced/overhauled/upgraded when it arrives would be most welcome.
I think the bike has 700c (622) rims, so tyres shouldn't be a problem. It looks like it's running STI shifters on drop bars, connected to 8(?) speed gears at the rear, and a Shimano 105 triple at the front with Vee brakes. The plan in my head is to fit my old Ultegra 6700 10-speed kit (if the shifters are compatible with the vee brakes?), with a pair of American Classic wheels I was given, and to smarten the bike up with the finishing kit from my old Merida road bike to get rid of the riser stem on it. I may be getting ahead of myself though, as I've not even contacted the seller yet! Did I mention #ebayidiocy ?
Oh - and the end goal for this bike is to use it for fire road Strava segment smashing, and to (possibly) race it at 'Battle On The Beach' in April this year. I've been looking for a drop-bar frame that I could bastardise into a beach/gravel racer for a while, but frame clearances for CX tyres have been the limiting factor. This bike appears to have greater clearance for bigger tyres, and with the Headshok it could make a decent machine for tearing up 5 km of hard packed sand and some fire roads with a bit of fast single track thrown in. I'm already hunting for 33 mm CX tyres...
Or know anything about them?
I appear to have just won an ebay auction for one. The only issue is that it's attached to a Cannondale Backroads CAAD2 bicycle. Oh, and it's 130 miles away.
#ebayidiocy
I put in a speculative bid on the bike, thinking I was likely to lose out to a last minute sniper, and now I'm having a mild case of buyer's remorse. The bike is described as "used but works absolutely fine" and from measurements photographed by the seller it ought to be the right size for me. I'm not trying to find ingenious ways to wriggle out of the purchase, but I just want to see if I can find out a bit more about what appears to be a "Headshok" suspension fork.
If only some kind soul had outbid me at the last moment, as they have done on all the items I really wanted to win recently (like Garmin GPS watches), then I could just shrug my shoulders and move on to the next item on my 'watch list'.
So any info about things to look for when riding a Headshok, and any pointers as to maintenance, and hopefully a recommendation of somewhere I can get it serviced/overhauled/upgraded when it arrives would be most welcome.
I think the bike has 700c (622) rims, so tyres shouldn't be a problem. It looks like it's running STI shifters on drop bars, connected to 8(?) speed gears at the rear, and a Shimano 105 triple at the front with Vee brakes. The plan in my head is to fit my old Ultegra 6700 10-speed kit (if the shifters are compatible with the vee brakes?), with a pair of American Classic wheels I was given, and to smarten the bike up with the finishing kit from my old Merida road bike to get rid of the riser stem on it. I may be getting ahead of myself though, as I've not even contacted the seller yet! Did I mention #ebayidiocy ?
Oh - and the end goal for this bike is to use it for fire road Strava segment smashing, and to (possibly) race it at 'Battle On The Beach' in April this year. I've been looking for a drop-bar frame that I could bastardise into a beach/gravel racer for a while, but frame clearances for CX tyres have been the limiting factor. This bike appears to have greater clearance for bigger tyres, and with the Headshok it could make a decent machine for tearing up 5 km of hard packed sand and some fire roads with a bit of fast single track thrown in. I'm already hunting for 33 mm CX tyres...
Oh, and an update as some Googling has revealed this site...
http://vintagecannondale.com/info/headshok/
..which has a lot more info than I knew already. It seems that it may be possible to swap the internals over if parts are available and there's a suspension servicing/tuning company who are still looking after them.
http://vintagecannondale.com/info/headshok/
..which has a lot more info than I knew already. It seems that it may be possible to swap the internals over if parts are available and there's a suspension servicing/tuning company who are still looking after them.
Seem to remember the backroads being a straight bar hybrid rather than a drop bar road/touring bike. Geometry might end up being a bit weird with a drop bar on it.
One of my mates when I was at school had a Cannondale super V with a headshok on it, this was in the late 90s. I remember it being plush but quite bouncy, would blow through the limited amount of travel it had quite quickly. But was quite a smooth ride due to lack of sticktion compared to the primitive suspension forks were used to at the time such as RS Quadra 21, RST mozo pros etc.
One of my mates when I was at school had a Cannondale super V with a headshok on it, this was in the late 90s. I remember it being plush but quite bouncy, would blow through the limited amount of travel it had quite quickly. But was quite a smooth ride due to lack of sticktion compared to the primitive suspension forks were used to at the time such as RS Quadra 21, RST mozo pros etc.
lufbramatt said:
Seem to remember the backroads being a straight bar hybrid rather than a drop bar road/touring bike. Geometry might end up being a bit weird with a drop bar on it.
One of my mates when I was at school had a Cannondale super V with a headshok on it, this was in the late 90s. I remember it being plush but quite bouncy, would blow through the limited amount of travel it had quite quickly. But was quite a smooth ride due to lack of sticktion compared to the primitive suspension forks were used to at the time such as RS Quadra 21, RST mozo pros etc.
That's kind of why I was asking really, because all the images I've seen (mostly from the USA) of the Backroads are of a straight bar bike. I'm not too worried about the geo though. The straight part of the drop bar will be roughly where the straight bar of a hybrid would be, and if getting into the drops makes me long and low, then all the better for "getting aero" on the 5 km sprint up Pembrey beach. The seller assures me that it's "always had those bars" so it may have been converted by another earlier owner?One of my mates when I was at school had a Cannondale super V with a headshok on it, this was in the late 90s. I remember it being plush but quite bouncy, would blow through the limited amount of travel it had quite quickly. But was quite a smooth ride due to lack of sticktion compared to the primitive suspension forks were used to at the time such as RS Quadra 21, RST mozo pros etc.
I've had some contact with the seller now, and I'm planning to collect it on Saturday so I'll check it over and post up some pictures when I can. I'm assured that it's in "ride away condition" which is more than a lot of bikes on ebay are.
I fear that swapping the stem will be a nightmare though, because my limited reading on the subject suggests that the steerer is oversized. Or at least the head tube is to accommodate the Headshok. But again, I'll find out more when I've got it home. I don't want to bother the seller with too many extra questions now. That sort of thing is what pre-bid emails are for! Now that I've bought it I'm committed to buying and collecting it anyway.
If the Ultegra 6700 brake levers will work with the Vee brakes, then I'm liking the idea of swapping in my Ultegra group, to make it more of a road bike in terms of gearing, and keeping my fingers crossed that the Headshok is in good order so that I can use it to pummel some fire roads and gravel tracks. If the gearing is too high with a 50/34 on the front, I'll seek out a 46/36 CX chainset for it instead.
I've also had to confess to my wife what I've done. Which led to the obligatory "one in one out" lecture. Apparently I promised her as much the last time I brought a bike home...
vwsurfbum said:
Some of my best bikes were #Ebayidiocy
I'm kinda hoping that's how this one turns out for me!It's the only one I've seen for sale, which was why I chucked a speculative bid in for it. It seemed far more suited to my 'ghetto gravel bike' plan than any of the road frames I've been looking at up to now.
I've got the guts of a road bike to rebuild it with more modern kit, and a spare set of quality vee brakes in the spare parts box too. Along with a set of American Classic wheels. Some new cables and a set of grippy tyres and this might actually be the one project I manage to get off the ground!
gazza285 said:
If the V-brakes don't work just put some cantilevers on it.
Haven't decided which bike for BOTB yet, rode single speed last year, which was hard work on the beach. Choices are single speed rigid MTB, 1x11 XC, or one of my 'cross bikes...
BOTB? Haven't decided which bike for BOTB yet, rode single speed last year, which was hard work on the beach. Choices are single speed rigid MTB, 1x11 XC, or one of my 'cross bikes...
My wife has invited herself along (provisionally) so there's a good chance the car will be full now, with a big family tent and chairs, etc. This will leave me with space for only one bike in the car I reckon, so I'll need to make a decision between this new bike and my boring old 27.5" 2 x 10 Giant Anthem.
I'm erring on the side of something with 700c wheels and higher gearing. There's very little really technical single track to speak of, and I can shoulder the bike CX-style if the gearing is too big for the few hills there are. The benefits of the CX/road focused drive train and narrower tyres up the beach for 5 km should outweigh the penalties from the same drive train in the forest.
We'll see though. If this new 'Dale is up to snuff, and I can fit both bikes in the car, then I'll bring 'em both and ride 'em back-to-back on the Friday or Saturday before the race. Whichever one I race on, it'll be interesting to be able to compare the differences between the bikes, and to see where I gain/lose time on each.
I've just looked at Canti brakes too. Some properly expensive options out there (KCNC for one) but I'll need to fit a brake hanger/headset spacer, and a seat collar. The shopping list for new groupset, tyres, cables, etc was already over £200, and Canti brakes won't make it any cheaper. Although I've got to say most of what's on my shopping list was "nice-to-haves" not essentials so I can trim costs by using parts I already have sitting around. I presume Cantis will fit on the same mounting posts as the V-brakes? Cantis are the one thing I've never dealt with on a bike before. Maybe Ican salvage a set from an old MTB at the local recycling centre? That'll keep costs down...
So much to think about now. This was supposed to be a bargain basement gravel racer, not a money pit. The cycling equivalent of 'Shedding' rather than a full restoration, if you like. I suppose what I really need to do is to stop speculating and wait until i get this thing paid for and brought home. That way I can answer many of my questions for myself.
Thanks for all the replies, by the way. Lots of useful suggestions too.
OK.
Another look at the photos on ebay reveals one answer to a fairly important question I had.
"If road STI levers don't work with V-brakes, how come this bike has that combination and it's said to work?"
Answer...
They're good photos, and one of them reveals the presence of a 'Travel Agent' cable pull ratio converter thingummybob on the V-brakes at the front, instead of a straight forward noodle.
I presume this means I can use any road STI lever at the handlebar now, without compromising the effectiveness of the brakes. The same at the rear too. The little 'Travel Agent' pulley wheel is clearly visible in the pictures. It seems certain now that it is a conversion from a flat bar hybrid, as any manufacturer would surely have specified Cantilever brakes if they'd fitted road STI levers from new. Although I suppose it could have been done by the supplying shop for the original owner so "like that from new" wouldn't seem so odd anymore...
Just reading up about the 'Travel Agent' pulley thing has made me feel much happier about the bike already. I'll stick to V-brakes now, so long as they'll work OK with my 10-speed levers.
ETA:
Further good news. If I don't like the V-brakes on the bike, or the 'Travel Agent' pull ratio converter, I can always buy some new brakes...
TRP CX-9 linear pull mini-V brakes...
https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/trp-cx-9-linear-pul...
...which are, apparently, designed to work directly with road STI levers. Fairly pricey, at c.£80 a set, but neater than the ratio converter thing that's on the bike right now, and obviously "shiny and new" which is always good!
Another look at the photos on ebay reveals one answer to a fairly important question I had.
"If road STI levers don't work with V-brakes, how come this bike has that combination and it's said to work?"
Answer...
They're good photos, and one of them reveals the presence of a 'Travel Agent' cable pull ratio converter thingummybob on the V-brakes at the front, instead of a straight forward noodle.
I presume this means I can use any road STI lever at the handlebar now, without compromising the effectiveness of the brakes. The same at the rear too. The little 'Travel Agent' pulley wheel is clearly visible in the pictures. It seems certain now that it is a conversion from a flat bar hybrid, as any manufacturer would surely have specified Cantilever brakes if they'd fitted road STI levers from new. Although I suppose it could have been done by the supplying shop for the original owner so "like that from new" wouldn't seem so odd anymore...
Just reading up about the 'Travel Agent' pulley thing has made me feel much happier about the bike already. I'll stick to V-brakes now, so long as they'll work OK with my 10-speed levers.
ETA:
Further good news. If I don't like the V-brakes on the bike, or the 'Travel Agent' pull ratio converter, I can always buy some new brakes...
TRP CX-9 linear pull mini-V brakes...
https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/trp-cx-9-linear-pul...
...which are, apparently, designed to work directly with road STI levers. Fairly pricey, at c.£80 a set, but neater than the ratio converter thing that's on the bike right now, and obviously "shiny and new" which is always good!
Edited by yellowjack on Thursday 22 February 20:54
I'm probably going to ride a 'cross bike, there isn't enough technical stuff as you say, you would be well overbiked on the Anthem. I do, however, like a challenge, and the single speed certainly brings that into play, I'd need to up the hearing from last year, the 36/15 I had just seemed so slow up the beach, while everyone else came past me and my single speed companions...
Good luck with the bike. I have a black cannondale f500 from 2001 with a headshock . Is in amazing condition . And the headshock is working perfectly. I only used it for a couple of summers on road then retired it to the garage. I am looking to sell as a bit small . Would suit someone just under 6ft .
Apologies to all reading this.
I'm using the thread as a bit of a notebook now, to collate links to useful products that I may need to 'improve' the bike.
This is one such post, and it gives me another option for the brakes (provided the fork crown is drilled through)...
Tektro CR720 canti brakes...
http://www.highonbikes.com/tektro-cr720-cyclo-cros... @£29.99 for both ends.
plus substitution of the cable hanger for...
Tektro Power Hanger Brake Enhancer...
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/tektro-power-ha... @£4.99 per end
This bit replaces the need for the straddle cable/brake cable hanger, as far as I can tell. It also allows the brake cable to run all the way to the cantis in it's outer cable without needing external outer cable stops. Manufacturer claims it enhances power too. All it needs is a frame and forks with the crown drilled through. So now it's a case of "wait and see" what my 'new' bike has or hasn't got in the way of drilled frame and fork crown.
I thought this info might be worth sharing though, in case anyone else is doing anything similar with potential to use canti brakes with road levers.
I'm using the thread as a bit of a notebook now, to collate links to useful products that I may need to 'improve' the bike.
This is one such post, and it gives me another option for the brakes (provided the fork crown is drilled through)...
Tektro CR720 canti brakes...
http://www.highonbikes.com/tektro-cr720-cyclo-cros... @£29.99 for both ends.
plus substitution of the cable hanger for...
Tektro Power Hanger Brake Enhancer...
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/tektro-power-ha... @£4.99 per end
This bit replaces the need for the straddle cable/brake cable hanger, as far as I can tell. It also allows the brake cable to run all the way to the cantis in it's outer cable without needing external outer cable stops. Manufacturer claims it enhances power too. All it needs is a frame and forks with the crown drilled through. So now it's a case of "wait and see" what my 'new' bike has or hasn't got in the way of drilled frame and fork crown.
I thought this info might be worth sharing though, in case anyone else is doing anything similar with potential to use canti brakes with road levers.
Nice bike.
Travel Agents are dead easy to set up.
Mini-V brakes are great too, I have them both on my commuter and my CX rig, they do limit your tyre size though compared to cantis. Get the cheapest mini-V calipers you can, it's the pads/cables/housings that count.
There's a lot of fit issues that can be solved with a zero-offset post and a a shorter stem, if it feels a bit 'stretched out' when you get it.
Travel Agents are dead easy to set up.
Mini-V brakes are great too, I have them both on my commuter and my CX rig, they do limit your tyre size though compared to cantis. Get the cheapest mini-V calipers you can, it's the pads/cables/housings that count.
There's a lot of fit issues that can be solved with a zero-offset post and a a shorter stem, if it feels a bit 'stretched out' when you get it.
Barchettaman said:
Nice bike.
Travel Agents are dead easy to set up.
Mini-V brakes are great too, I have them both on my commuter and my CX rig, they do limit your tyre size though compared to cantis. Get the cheapest mini-V calipers you can, it's the pads/cables/housings that count.
There's a lot of fit issues that can be solved with a zero-offset post and a a shorter stem, if it feels a bit 'stretched out' when you get it.
One of the seller's photos...Travel Agents are dead easy to set up.
Mini-V brakes are great too, I have them both on my commuter and my CX rig, they do limit your tyre size though compared to cantis. Get the cheapest mini-V calipers you can, it's the pads/cables/housings that count.
There's a lot of fit issues that can be solved with a zero-offset post and a a shorter stem, if it feels a bit 'stretched out' when you get it.
Priority stuff would appear to be:
Fit SPD pedals
Fit a decent wheelset and CX tyres.
Upgrade to 10-speed gearing with new Tiagra GS rear mech and 32 tooth or 34 tooth cassette
Sort that bloody stem out and get some new bar tape
Decide whether to fit a spare 10-speed compact double crankset and use spare Ultegra 6700 shifters, or perhaps go with Tiagra shifters and a Tiagra triple chainset?
Once I've checked that it all works I can list any smaller jobs like new pads and cables, etc. If it all works it allows me to make improvements/upgrades at my leisure. I'll strip it and clean it of course, and try to bring the paint back to life again, but it'll be a working bike rather than anything particularly cherished or posed on.
Edited by yellowjack on Thursday 22 February 23:24
yellowjack said:
Priority stuff would appear to be:
Fit SPD pedals
Fit CX tyres.
Sort that bloody stem out and get some new bar tape.
Then ride it to see if you like it enough to start upgrading before wasting loads of cash? Does it need better wheels yet? What's so bad about only having twenty four gears for now? I know from experience how much more fragile ten speed rear ends are off road than eight speed set ups after years of cyclocross...Fit SPD pedals
Fit CX tyres.
Sort that bloody stem out and get some new bar tape.
gazza285 said:
Then ride it to see if you like it enough to start upgrading before wasting loads of cash? Does it need better wheels yet? What's so bad about only having twenty four gears for now? I know from experience how much more fragile ten speed rear ends are off road than eight speed set ups after years of cyclocross...
The wheels are a freebie. Nil cost. Plus a spare set from another bike. The 10 speed Ultegra groupset the same. I was knocked off my old Merida Road Race 905 and the ali frame is bent at the seat stay. It was a side impact so I don't feel I can trust the carbon fork. The new rear mech would be £25 simply to get the long cage version.But then it begins to get complicated because the freebie option relies on switching to a 50/34 Ultegra compact crankset to use the 2 x 10 shifters. If I want a triple up front with 10-speed rear, then I'll need a new crankset and shifters. Triple shifters are elusive, it would seem. And cranksets not cheap either. Which is where the dreaded budget creep comes in and I begin to see economic sense in buying a 10-speed triple Tiagra groupset from the likes of Ribble for about £290. So I'm back to a Tiagra long cage mech to allow me to use a 32t (maybe 34t?) cassette, which would give me far more flexibility from the 50/34t chainrings. Confused? I will be!
So yes, I think I'm probably going to reign back on my wishlist and take your advice to ride it first and see how things go, after tidying up the obvious bits and fitting a stem, saddle, and bars that I know work for me. Your point about fragility of road ten speed kit compared to a rear mech designed for a MTB is a good one. The only 'fly in the ointment' that I can see is that one of the shifters is missing a cap on the front. Oh, and I want to have the cables run under the bar tape "because tart"...
ps: Those American Classic wheels I was given? The freehub makes a really cool noise when in freewheel. I've never had a set that do that before, so I want to be like the cool kids...
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