Heating sometimes Drayton Zone Value Actuator
Discussion
Hi,
Over last couple of years sometimes my boiler keeps running even when the thermostat hit the required temp, sorted it by turning off the boiler at mains then would work fine for a while then happen again.
I have one of these Drayton Zone actuator https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-zone-replacemen... I had a plumber out last year and was quoted circa £360 to replace the value and actuator, drain down the system etc. The Drayton Zone actuator though is clip on so you can actually buy the bit that switches the value on its own https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-zone-replacemen... for £50 though with the value itself its actually only a few quid more. Anyone experienced with these Drayton actuators and is it usually the micro switch that is the issue, rather than the valve its opening and closing in the pipe ?
I'm thinking of just trying to replace the actuator first see if that sorts it, is they anything I need to be aware of when swapping it ie what position does the value need to be etc ? Or should I just cut my loses and get new Honeywell fitted completely including the pipe bit so will need the system drained etc ?
thanks
Over last couple of years sometimes my boiler keeps running even when the thermostat hit the required temp, sorted it by turning off the boiler at mains then would work fine for a while then happen again.
I have one of these Drayton Zone actuator https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-zone-replacemen... I had a plumber out last year and was quoted circa £360 to replace the value and actuator, drain down the system etc. The Drayton Zone actuator though is clip on so you can actually buy the bit that switches the value on its own https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-zone-replacemen... for £50 though with the value itself its actually only a few quid more. Anyone experienced with these Drayton actuators and is it usually the micro switch that is the issue, rather than the valve its opening and closing in the pipe ?
I'm thinking of just trying to replace the actuator first see if that sorts it, is they anything I need to be aware of when swapping it ie what position does the value need to be etc ? Or should I just cut my loses and get new Honeywell fitted completely including the pipe bit so will need the system drained etc ?
thanks
Turn the power off and take the plastic cover off the valve. I bet you find a spring rattling loose around in there. The return spring on these is mounted on a small plastic post that snaps off. Where the post has snapped off there is a hole behind it, just remount the spring into this hole. I've fixed loads of theses that way.
xstian said:
Turn the power off and take the plastic cover off the valve. I bet you find a spring rattling loose around in there. The return spring on these is mounted on a small plastic post that snaps off. Where the post has snapped off there is a hole behind it, just remount the spring into this hole. I've fixed loads of theses that way.
Cheers I will have a look.Mine have always been the microswitches and/or their mountings. (Not had a snapped spring post (yet?!))
The one that used to go repeatedly is mounted too close to the tank, IMO, and the heat causes problems. I drilled a few holes in the top and bottom of the case, then fitted a heat shield (= gaffa taped an old right-angled heat sink over it
).
I how have a pile of microswitches next to the pile of broken valves which I accumulated before I got sick of paying for them and started fixing them properly instead. The microswitches can take a little bit of filing down to fit, and once in I now screw them into place. Touch wood, it's been a while since I had to fix either of ours...
Give me a shout if you need more help/pics, or a new switch, I'll see what I can do
The one that used to go repeatedly is mounted too close to the tank, IMO, and the heat causes problems. I drilled a few holes in the top and bottom of the case, then fitted a heat shield (= gaffa taped an old right-angled heat sink over it
). I how have a pile of microswitches next to the pile of broken valves which I accumulated before I got sick of paying for them and started fixing them properly instead. The microswitches can take a little bit of filing down to fit, and once in I now screw them into place. Touch wood, it's been a while since I had to fix either of ours...
Give me a shout if you need more help/pics, or a new switch, I'll see what I can do
Thanks I was just going to buy a new actuactor and connect that up, looking online they seem to sell for £33-£50. I had a look at my actuator today though and it looks a bit different to the ones for sale, mine says MA1 on in it but has a switch on the side with H M W the ones online I see just have nbrs 1 2 on side, mine also looks bigger, picture below. Can I replace with a screwfix one ?
The code in the pic that you cant read is 6721251 googled that and cant find it.
The code in the pic that you cant read is 6721251 googled that and cant find it.
Cranked said:
Yeah thats it, its actually cheaper if you buy it with the valve £65. I ordered from directheatingsupplies was £33 plus delivery £39 in total, hopefully it will come through ok.Cheers
defblade said:
Mine have always been the microswitches and/or their mountings. (Not had a snapped spring post (yet?!))
The one that used to go repeatedly is mounted too close to the tank, IMO, and the heat causes problems. I drilled a few holes in the top and bottom of the case, then fitted a heat shield (= gaffa taped an old right-angled heat sink over it ).
I how have a pile of microswitches next to the pile of broken valves which I accumulated before I got sick of paying for them and started fixing them properly instead. The microswitches can take a little bit of filing down to fit, and once in I now screw them into place. Touch wood, it's been a while since I had to fix either of ours...
Give me a shout if you need more help/pics, or a new switch, I'll see what I can do
Sorry for thread resurrection ..The one that used to go repeatedly is mounted too close to the tank, IMO, and the heat causes problems. I drilled a few holes in the top and bottom of the case, then fitted a heat shield (= gaffa taped an old right-angled heat sink over it
). I how have a pile of microswitches next to the pile of broken valves which I accumulated before I got sick of paying for them and started fixing them properly instead. The microswitches can take a little bit of filing down to fit, and once in I now screw them into place. Touch wood, it's been a while since I had to fix either of ours...
Give me a shout if you need more help/pics, or a new switch, I'll see what I can do
My radiators were on this morning. I have a system boiler with 2 Drayton ZA5 actuators - the heating one was stuck in the 'B' position so i removed it and closed the spindle manually (clockwise). However whenever the hot water is turned on then the radiator symbol starts flashing on the boiler
I have ordered a new actuator but is there a way to turn off the heating until I get it replaced?
Sheepshanks said:
Either disconnect the actuator (what's it wired into?) or just turn the boiler off at the mains when it's not in use for hot water.
Ah yep, I think i found the problem - there is a micro switch inside the actuator (connected to a Honeywell controller) that is still sending a signal when actuator is ‘off’. Puzzled that both the mechanical bit (it was stuck ‘on’) and switch failed. Anyway I have the new actuator and will get an expert to fit it.Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff