How to run 2 zones off a single pump?

How to run 2 zones off a single pump?

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jason61c

Original Poster:

5,978 posts

173 months

Friday 16th November 2018
quotequote all
I've fitted a heatmiser uh4

https://www.underfloorheating.co.uk/Files/127465/U...

3 UFH zones

hot water

2 radiator zones

Where it falls apart is that its designed for one radiator zone only, i've got 2, shared pump. If I use the zone valve to trigger the pump, the voltage hits the uh4 and opens the other zone valve, and vice versa.

1 neostat ultra
4 v2's
1 hot water

How can I prevent this? been scratching my head over it!

CubanPete

3,630 posts

187 months

Friday 16th November 2018
quotequote all
We have a single pump.

Three valves controlling two circuits and the hot water

jason61c

Original Poster:

5,978 posts

173 months

Friday 16th November 2018
quotequote all
I think its more an issue with the above setup.

Its the radiators zones that's causing the issue.

fatboy b

9,492 posts

215 months

Friday 16th November 2018
quotequote all
My experience with Heatmiser lasted two months before I threw it out. Now have a Netatmo, but not a system that you have. But for me it works and can cope with WiFi rad stats if I want them.

jason61c

Original Poster:

5,978 posts

173 months

Friday 16th November 2018
quotequote all
There’s zero issue with the Heatmiser.

Simple solution is to fit the spare pump I have so both radiator zones are pumped independently.

fatboy b

9,492 posts

215 months

Friday 16th November 2018
quotequote all
jason61c said:
There’s zero issue with the Heatmiser.

Simple solution is to fit the spare pump I have so both radiator zones are pumped independently.
Their software is a big issue. After a month of back and forth with their helpdesk over it, they refunded me.

A netatmo will handle what you want to do.

silversurfer1

918 posts

135 months

Friday 16th November 2018
quotequote all


Looks to me like you need a UH8 it has capacity for more zones.

You could fit a separate programmer for the other heating zone, id not be adding another pump

ss


jason61c

Original Poster:

5,978 posts

173 months

Friday 16th November 2018
quotequote all
fatboy b said:
Their software is a big issue. After a month of back and forth with their helpdesk over it, they refunded me.

A netatmo will handle what you want to do.
It seems to work well for me. the netamo is about 3-4 times the total cost for what I need.

jason61c

Original Poster:

5,978 posts

173 months

Friday 16th November 2018
quotequote all
silversurfer1 said:
Looks to me like you need a UH8 it has capacity for more zones.

You could fit a separate programmer for the other heating zone, id not be adding another pump

ss
the uh8 still only has one radiator zone, just more UFH zones.

silversurfer1

918 posts

135 months

Friday 16th November 2018
quotequote all
Ah yes sorry i see it has a switch so it does not enable the UFH pump.

Separate stand alone programable room thermostat linked to your rad heating zone 2 it is then

Bit tight only supplying a single radiator zone.

SS



Rickyy

6,618 posts

218 months

Saturday 17th November 2018
quotequote all
Do away with the heatmiser controlling the heating and hot water zone valves. Wire the system as a normal S-plan (albeit with more zones). 2x radiator zone valves, water zone valve and UFH zone valve

It would seem that when there is a demand for heat from the UFH, LS and LR become a closed switch. I would put a permanent live to LS and connect LR to the brown wire of the UFH zone valve. That way, all it's doing is opening the zone valve, the microswitch inside (grey and orange) switches the boiler and pump on, without powering any other zone valves.

Rickyy

6,618 posts

218 months

Saturday 17th November 2018
quotequote all
Rickyy said:
Do away with the heatmiser controlling the heating and hot water zone valves. Wire the system as a normal S-plan (albeit with more zones). 2x radiator zone valves, water zone valve and UFH zone valve

It would seem that when there is a demand for heat from the UFH, LS and LR become a closed switch. I would put a permanent live to LS and connect LR to the brown wire of the UFH zone valve. That way, all it's doing is opening the zone valve, the microswitch inside (grey and orange) switches the boiler and pump on, without powering any other zone valves.
Or have I missed something and it comes with a controller to manage the rad and hot water circuit?

jason61c

Original Poster:

5,978 posts

173 months

Saturday 17th November 2018
quotequote all
Rickyy said:
Do away with the heatmiser controlling the heating and hot water zone valves. Wire the system as a normal S-plan (albeit with more zones). 2x radiator zone valves, water zone valve and UFH zone valve

It would seem that when there is a demand for heat from the UFH, LS and LR become a closed switch. I would put a permanent live to LS and connect LR to the brown wire of the UFH zone valve. That way, all it's doing is opening the zone valve, the microswitch inside (grey and orange) switches the boiler and pump on, without powering any other zone valves.
There's a dedicated output for the UFH stuff that doesn't trigger the radiator pumps or valves. so UFH is controlled(own pump), radiator zone(own pump) and hot water(own pump).

I confused it by adding a second radiator zone, as using single pump would trigger the other(wrong) zone valve due to the way its wired.

I've fixed it by adding a spare pump I had. Really works well now.