How to run 2 zones off a single pump?
Discussion
I've fitted a heatmiser uh4
https://www.underfloorheating.co.uk/Files/127465/U...
3 UFH zones
hot water
2 radiator zones
Where it falls apart is that its designed for one radiator zone only, i've got 2, shared pump. If I use the zone valve to trigger the pump, the voltage hits the uh4 and opens the other zone valve, and vice versa.
1 neostat ultra
4 v2's
1 hot water
How can I prevent this? been scratching my head over it!
https://www.underfloorheating.co.uk/Files/127465/U...
3 UFH zones
hot water
2 radiator zones
Where it falls apart is that its designed for one radiator zone only, i've got 2, shared pump. If I use the zone valve to trigger the pump, the voltage hits the uh4 and opens the other zone valve, and vice versa.
1 neostat ultra
4 v2's
1 hot water
How can I prevent this? been scratching my head over it!
jason61c said:
There’s zero issue with the Heatmiser.
Simple solution is to fit the spare pump I have so both radiator zones are pumped independently.
Their software is a big issue. After a month of back and forth with their helpdesk over it, they refunded me. Simple solution is to fit the spare pump I have so both radiator zones are pumped independently.
A netatmo will handle what you want to do.
Do away with the heatmiser controlling the heating and hot water zone valves. Wire the system as a normal S-plan (albeit with more zones). 2x radiator zone valves, water zone valve and UFH zone valve
It would seem that when there is a demand for heat from the UFH, LS and LR become a closed switch. I would put a permanent live to LS and connect LR to the brown wire of the UFH zone valve. That way, all it's doing is opening the zone valve, the microswitch inside (grey and orange) switches the boiler and pump on, without powering any other zone valves.
It would seem that when there is a demand for heat from the UFH, LS and LR become a closed switch. I would put a permanent live to LS and connect LR to the brown wire of the UFH zone valve. That way, all it's doing is opening the zone valve, the microswitch inside (grey and orange) switches the boiler and pump on, without powering any other zone valves.
Rickyy said:
Do away with the heatmiser controlling the heating and hot water zone valves. Wire the system as a normal S-plan (albeit with more zones). 2x radiator zone valves, water zone valve and UFH zone valve
It would seem that when there is a demand for heat from the UFH, LS and LR become a closed switch. I would put a permanent live to LS and connect LR to the brown wire of the UFH zone valve. That way, all it's doing is opening the zone valve, the microswitch inside (grey and orange) switches the boiler and pump on, without powering any other zone valves.
Or have I missed something and it comes with a controller to manage the rad and hot water circuit?It would seem that when there is a demand for heat from the UFH, LS and LR become a closed switch. I would put a permanent live to LS and connect LR to the brown wire of the UFH zone valve. That way, all it's doing is opening the zone valve, the microswitch inside (grey and orange) switches the boiler and pump on, without powering any other zone valves.
Rickyy said:
Do away with the heatmiser controlling the heating and hot water zone valves. Wire the system as a normal S-plan (albeit with more zones). 2x radiator zone valves, water zone valve and UFH zone valve
It would seem that when there is a demand for heat from the UFH, LS and LR become a closed switch. I would put a permanent live to LS and connect LR to the brown wire of the UFH zone valve. That way, all it's doing is opening the zone valve, the microswitch inside (grey and orange) switches the boiler and pump on, without powering any other zone valves.
There's a dedicated output for the UFH stuff that doesn't trigger the radiator pumps or valves. so UFH is controlled(own pump), radiator zone(own pump) and hot water(own pump).It would seem that when there is a demand for heat from the UFH, LS and LR become a closed switch. I would put a permanent live to LS and connect LR to the brown wire of the UFH zone valve. That way, all it's doing is opening the zone valve, the microswitch inside (grey and orange) switches the boiler and pump on, without powering any other zone valves.
I confused it by adding a second radiator zone, as using single pump would trigger the other(wrong) zone valve due to the way its wired.
I've fixed it by adding a spare pump I had. Really works well now.
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