Bmw 525i e60 2004 heaters not working blows cold air only

[micky1786]

Hi all I’ve bought a bmw e60 525i 2004 and the heaters are not working, just blows cold air... The pipes from radiator are hot going from heater control valve to additional heater pump and then to the matrix pipe but no heat from the pipe coming out the matrix from what I’ve felt on the pipe coming out.

Any help would be appreciated as I’m lost as to what the issue could be?.

Thanks

[d_a_n1979]

micky1786 said:

Hi all I’ve bought a bmw e60 525i 2004 and the heaters are not working, just blows cold air... The pipes from radiator are hot going from heater control valve to additional heater pump and then to the matrix pipe but no heat from the pipe coming out the matrix from what I’ve felt on the pipe coming out.

Any help would be appreciated as I’m lost as to what the issue could be?.

Thanks

I take it your car has the M54 lump?

Have you checked the heater valve (if it has one). Common occurrence on the E39s with the same engine is that the valves stick, closed, stopping the heat. A new valve, c£55 soon sorts this.

But start cheap & fully bleed the system again to be sure of no air locks etc

Alps, does your central air vent have a blow (cold) to red (hot) dial? If so, have you moved that around to make sure it’s operating as it should?

[micky1786]

d_a_n1979 said:

I take it your car has the M54 lump?

Have you checked the heater valve (if it has one). Common occurrence on the E39s with the same engine is that the valves stick, closed, stopping the heat. A new valve, c£55 soon sorts this.

But start cheap & fully bleed the system again to be sure of no air locks etc

Alps, does your central air vent have a blow (cold) to red (hot) dial? If so, have you moved that around to make sure it’s operating as it should?

Hi thank you for your reply, yes it’s the old M54 block

I’ve replaced both control valve and additional pump and they’re working fine now as they were dead previously, the car doesn’t seem to have a bleeding system like the older ones from what I can see. I’ve put the control to hot but what guarantee is there that that’s working as I was thinking the centre control knobs might be faulty!.

[RUSSELLM]

In terms of the engine bay, you have hot water entering the car/matrix, but the pipes leaving the car, are cold ?

[micky1786]

RUSSELLM said:

In terms of the engine bay, you have hot water entering the car/matrix, but the pipes leaving the car, are cold ?

Hello, yes the pipes leaving the matrix is cold but all other pipes are fully hot thanks

[RUSSELLM]

From experience, it’s normally a bleed required. Or the matrix is blocked/knackered.

I’ve only had it Once before where it wasn’t a bleed issue. I’ll have a look at my books tomorrow, to see what the fix was. I think it was a matrix issue though.

[micky1786]

RUSSELLM said:

From experience, it’s normally a bleed required. Or the matrix is blocked/knackered.

I’ve only had it Once before where it wasn’t a bleed issue. I’ll have a look at my books tomorrow, to see what the fix was. I think it was a matrix issue though.

Thank you very much Russell, someone else mentioned the matrix and thats also what I’ve been dreading!!! Is it dashboard off job if it’s matrix blockage to replace the matrix?. Thanks

Edited by micky1786 on Sunday 8th December 17:52

[Elliot2000]

If you put the heaters just to the screen vent does it come out warm then?

[micky1786]

Elliot2000 said:

If you put the heaters just to the screen vent does it come out warm then?

Nothing at all.

[njw1]

That does sound like the heater matrix unfortunately, when I bought my 540 the heaters would only blow cold air, I've put a flushing agent through it, back flushed the heater matrix, bled it and bled it again, swapped the heater valves and auxiliary pump for ones that I knew 100% worked, bled it (again and again....) and now they blow lukewarm, the only thing left is the heater matrix, there is evidence of redweld/k-seal in the header tank so I can only assume this has blocked the matrix. I've got another matrix waiting to go in, they're not the biggest of things and the coolant passages within it are very narrow, it doesn't look like it would take much to restrict and/or block it. As you say though OP it's a full dashboard out job to change it and I haven't got the patience or time for that at the moment!

[micky1786]

njw1 said:

That does sound like the heater matrix unfortunately, when I bought my 540 the heaters would only blow cold air, I've put a flushing agent through it, back flushed the heater matrix, bled it and bled it again, swapped the heater valves and auxiliary pump for ones that I knew 100% worked, bled it (again and again....) and now they blow lukewarm, the only thing left is the heater matrix, there is evidence of redweld/k-seal in the header tank so I can only assume this has blocked the matrix. I've got another matrix waiting to go in, they're not the biggest of things and the coolant passages within it are very narrow, it doesn't look like it would take much to restrict and/or block it. As you say though OP it's a full dashboard out job to change it and I haven't got the patience or time for that at the moment!

Oh great o was dreading this whole thing tt has but wanted to reassure myself it was a simple fix as I too replaced both electric valve/pump for ones that were working as I definitely know they were as no hot water was passing them.

Can I ask one question?. Do these two electrical valves work continuously?

Have you tried blowing it with a pressure airline and is something I’m willing to give a go before ripping that dash out as it’s winter and I don’t fancy that dash job at the moment.

Edited by micky1786 on Tuesday 10th December 00:40

[RUSSELLM]

micky1786 said:

RUSSELLM said:

From experience, it’s normally a bleed required. Or the matrix is blocked/knackered.

I’ve only had it Once before where it wasn’t a bleed issue. I’ll have a look at my books tomorrow, to see what the fix was. I think it was a matrix issue though.

Thank you very much Russell, someone else mentioned the matrix and thats also what I’ve been dreading!!! Is it dashboard off job if it’s matrix blockage to replace the matrix?. Thanks

Edited by micky1786 on Sunday 8th December 17:52

Just had a flick through my books, and I didn’t write the fix down unfortunately.

Fairly confident it was a blocked matrix, but I couldn’t/wouldn’t 100% commit to it

[micky1786]

RUSSELLM said:

Just had a flick through my books, and I didn’t write the fix down unfortunately.

Fairly confident it was a blocked matrix, but I couldn’t/wouldn’t 100% commit to it

do these electric pumps run continuously?

[micky1786]

RUSSELLM said:

Just had a flick through my books, and I didn’t write the fix down unfortunately.

Fairly confident it was a blocked matrix, but I couldn’t/wouldn’t 100% commit to it

Thanks for checking, I’ll get a air line through it before I commit to ripping that dash apart?

[njw1]

I'm not sure if an e60 is the same as the e39 (I would assume it is) but on the e39 the solenoid valves are constantly energised when the ignition is switched on unless you set the heaters to maximum heat, with no power applied they're fully open. The little auxiliary pump on my car doesn't run all the time, it cuts in now and again.

[micky1786]

njw1 said:

I'm not sure if an e60 is the same as the e39 (I would assume it is) but on the e39 the solenoid valves are constantly energised when the ignition is switched on unless you set the heaters to maximum heat, with no power applied they're fully open. The little auxiliary pump on my car doesn't run all the time, it cuts in now and again.

Thanks for the reply, I’ll try the air line blow out sometime next week and if that doesn’t work then off with the dash hahaha

[Rapidbanger]

Hi an old post I know but just had similar scenario on my e60 and will share my knowledge for future users! So radiator/thermostat housingand top hose replacement resulted in no heating! So instead of buying any parts I thought I would flush system out!, disconnected hoses from auxiliary water pump and hot water valve, disconnected both from electrics and took them out, the amount of crud in both was unbelievable, then flushed whole system through the matrix first forwards then backwards again the amount of a sandy substance was large along with metallic particles! I believe in the past someone may have put a Radwell type substance in! (The only work I've ever done is a header tank replacement on cooling system) no flush! Anyway worked a treat! Heating back better than before it took around an hour to complete! One obvious point is let engine cool before flushing to prevent damage! Tbf good motor M54 lump uses a bit oil now but it's on 185,000 around a litre every 1k if oil consumption becomes excessive replace pcv system £60 parts allow 2-3 hours to complete (manifold does not have to come off) only the throttle body! I bought at 82,000 so it's done 103,000 for me, with few problems! Also consider gearbox/diff oil change (mine is manual) so far cheaper than auto but would have done auto aswell! And it's been a trusty servant!

[micky1786]

Excellent thank you for your reply even though the posts a few years old hahaha
I mate just try that as I’ve still not had any luck with mine. Got heating coming out last year driving it around for a few months but then parked it up as has transmission mechatronic issues. Now fitted a replacement mech and valve three is showing error. Ffs can’t win with these autotrans!. Drives fine though.