S3 Dash Removal
Discussion
Tried the searches, but can't find the link to a very detailed description of how to remove your dash veneer plate and re-coat with sticky back plastic.
I can't remember who's link it was.
Does anybody remember it?
I've had a very stressful and painful day dismantling my car to get the six nuts off the dashplate, but it won't budge!
I can't remember who's link it was.
Does anybody remember it?
I've had a very stressful and painful day dismantling my car to get the six nuts off the dashplate, but it won't budge!
I have a step by step on my website at http://www.tvrgit.com
Go to the "howto" menu on the left, and its in there.
Go to the "howto" menu on the left, and its in there.
No, not touched heater sliders yet.
I assume that is what is holding the panel in. Didn't want to force it, but now I've read your instructions, I am going to lever the dash out and hope there is sufficient slack in heater cables to enable me to disconnect them.
Probably wait until next Saturday now as my back is killing!!!
On the positive side, my Parking warning lamp has just started working for the first time!! Must be a loose connection somewhere that I have interrupted.
I'll certainly be making some modifications when I put it all back together, starting with those Nyloc nuts!!!
I assume that is what is holding the panel in. Didn't want to force it, but now I've read your instructions, I am going to lever the dash out and hope there is sufficient slack in heater cables to enable me to disconnect them.
Probably wait until next Saturday now as my back is killing!!!
On the positive side, my Parking warning lamp has just started working for the first time!! Must be a loose connection somewhere that I have interrupted.
I'll certainly be making some modifications when I put it all back together, starting with those Nyloc nuts!!!
I've seen the two clamps in your guide. I presume they clamp the heater control to the dash panel, and not to the fibreglass behind the dash panel?
I'll follow your instructions step by step, and if I have to remove oil pressure gauge, so be it!
I agree, the clamps won't be going back on once I get them off!!
I'll follow your instructions step by step, and if I have to remove oil pressure gauge, so be it!
I agree, the clamps won't be going back on once I get them off!!
If you have the other type of slider without the oval on the front of the dash like shown on my site www.gbsportscar.com then on this one the sliders are only attached to the panel but you need to ease the panel out and then slacken off a 8mm nut on the drivers side and remove the one on the passenger side to free the sliders from the panel and leave them in the fibreglass dash.
The slotted dash version is very tricky - good luck.
Success!!!, Well, partially.
I tried in vain to get access to the 'heater slider clamps' behind the dash, but quite frankly, even with pulling the dash as far as possible forward, without breaking it, I still couldn't even see the securing nuts. When I say 'see' them, I have purchased a USB endoscope which was extremely useful (thanks for the idea Philpot!).
So, I then decided I would attempt to cut around the inner oval to release the front part of the slider assembly with a dremel type cutting tool, thinking that it would easily slide back in to the aperture once I had renovated the dash panel. That failed also as the cutting disc was not up to the job.
I subsequently lost my temper so got my long nose pliers and ripped the heater slider assembly out, breaking the clamp attachment. Dash panel is finally free!!!!
The experience has left me amazed as to how newly veneered panels are re-installed (un-damaged) as the panel suffered a degree of bending to remove it. I intend to machine a mm or two from top edge before re-installing it. Assumption that top edge is less likely to be seen. Well, for me anyway as I am tall.
The heater slider assembly is slightly damaged by the use of the pliers, but not excessively. However if anyone has an un-damaged spare, I am willing to negotiate?? Let me know, thanks.
Must say thanks to tinksV8S for giving me the encouragement to even try this task (I am not a mechanic by any sense of the word), and also to TVRgit for his excellent guide and advice.
Have already started renovating the switch panel with the fake veneer plastic sheet and the difference is immense. Once the skin re-grows on my hands and arms, I am sure I will look back on this experience and smile!!
Many thanks Guys,
Graham
I tried in vain to get access to the 'heater slider clamps' behind the dash, but quite frankly, even with pulling the dash as far as possible forward, without breaking it, I still couldn't even see the securing nuts. When I say 'see' them, I have purchased a USB endoscope which was extremely useful (thanks for the idea Philpot!).
So, I then decided I would attempt to cut around the inner oval to release the front part of the slider assembly with a dremel type cutting tool, thinking that it would easily slide back in to the aperture once I had renovated the dash panel. That failed also as the cutting disc was not up to the job.
I subsequently lost my temper so got my long nose pliers and ripped the heater slider assembly out, breaking the clamp attachment. Dash panel is finally free!!!!
The experience has left me amazed as to how newly veneered panels are re-installed (un-damaged) as the panel suffered a degree of bending to remove it. I intend to machine a mm or two from top edge before re-installing it. Assumption that top edge is less likely to be seen. Well, for me anyway as I am tall.
The heater slider assembly is slightly damaged by the use of the pliers, but not excessively. However if anyone has an un-damaged spare, I am willing to negotiate?? Let me know, thanks.
Must say thanks to tinksV8S for giving me the encouragement to even try this task (I am not a mechanic by any sense of the word), and also to TVRgit for his excellent guide and advice.
Have already started renovating the switch panel with the fake veneer plastic sheet and the difference is immense. Once the skin re-grows on my hands and arms, I am sure I will look back on this experience and smile!!
Many thanks Guys,
Graham
Update: Dash panel has been 'renovated' to the best of my ability with sticky back plastic and lots of lacquer. Started re-building the car today, so with dash panel in 'loosely', decided on a quick test drive to make sure I hadn't destroyed the electricals, and all good except speedo. fixed at 80mph bit doesn't move.
Took dash panel out again, and noticed a single black wire hanging down from the warnings lamps area. Wire has a spade connector on it, but on back of speedo there is an unused stud. When I attached the wire to this stud, ignition on, and hey presto, speedo back to zero!
Went for quick spin and all seems good. Just slightly confused as this wire wasn't attached when I took dash out, and clearly as it has a spade connector, probably shouldn't be attached to the speedo, but it seems the speedo needs am earth, and there is no other way it can get it as there are no other loose wires!
Does anybody understand this, have experience of this? I have stopped assembling the car as my back is killing, but as all electricals seem ok, will assume I have done the right thing unless told otherwise??
Thanks
Took dash panel out again, and noticed a single black wire hanging down from the warnings lamps area. Wire has a spade connector on it, but on back of speedo there is an unused stud. When I attached the wire to this stud, ignition on, and hey presto, speedo back to zero!
Went for quick spin and all seems good. Just slightly confused as this wire wasn't attached when I took dash out, and clearly as it has a spade connector, probably shouldn't be attached to the speedo, but it seems the speedo needs am earth, and there is no other way it can get it as there are no other loose wires!
Does anybody understand this, have experience of this? I have stopped assembling the car as my back is killing, but as all electricals seem ok, will assume I have done the right thing unless told otherwise??
Thanks
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