Discussion
I had my freshly rebuilt engine installed into my car, but only to find lambda woes
I used the diagnostic software which showed essentially 0 volts on Lambda 2. I think the mechanic may have connected the sensors the wrong way around before as well.
Regardless, it caused over fuelling, and killed one of my cats.
I ordered 2 new sensors, and 2 sensor connector wires, as the old ones were fried. I ran the wires and connected them into the loom.
But no matter what I check so far the Lambda 2 is still not working. I teste the sensors, both are good.
I checked and there is 12v going to the sensor, and the ground seems to be ok as well. So the issue must be on the blue signal wire for Lambda 2.
Any pointers on what to do next? I am getting overfuelling again. I don't think I will be able to fix this in time for her MOT on Thursday
I used the diagnostic software which showed essentially 0 volts on Lambda 2. I think the mechanic may have connected the sensors the wrong way around before as well.
Regardless, it caused over fuelling, and killed one of my cats.
I ordered 2 new sensors, and 2 sensor connector wires, as the old ones were fried. I ran the wires and connected them into the loom.
But no matter what I check so far the Lambda 2 is still not working. I teste the sensors, both are good.
I checked and there is 12v going to the sensor, and the ground seems to be ok as well. So the issue must be on the blue signal wire for Lambda 2.
Any pointers on what to do next? I am getting overfuelling again. I don't think I will be able to fix this in time for her MOT on Thursday
Have you traced the lambda 2 wires back to the ECU connector to ensure continuity? If all ok, can you borrow another ECU to try?
Other than that, the adaptives should be as close to zero as possible when idling @~90C. Should be able to achieve that by a adjusting the throttle screw and resetting the throttles by the software. If you can't get close to 0% maybe you have an air leak bypassing the throttle assemblies?
Other than that, the adaptives should be as close to zero as possible when idling @~90C. Should be able to achieve that by a adjusting the throttle screw and resetting the throttles by the software. If you can't get close to 0% maybe you have an air leak bypassing the throttle assemblies?
KenInOntario said:
Is the connector easy to get to?
I have a 2nd ecu. Will it work with my immobilizer?
The ECU is behind the pedals on the Tuscan, held in by a couple of wing nuts. You need to be a contortionist to get to it, but once released it is simple to remove the connector. I have a 2nd ecu. Will it work with my immobilizer?
You will need the pinout on the ECU for continuity checks (now attached)
Assuming the spare ECU you have is the same variant, it will be a straight swap. The immobiliser is separate circuit and will not be affected.
Edited by Englishman on Tuesday 25th April 20:45
Ok, looks like I got that issue fixed.
The Leads for 4 & 6 were in the wrong spot on the coil.
I cleaned all the connectors, took the plugs out, cleaned them. 4 & 6 were black, flooded etc etc.
And got her running, but the Adaptive levels seem off.
Also, when I blip the accelerator, the revs don't drop, but rise momentarily before dropping. Any ideas?
I have not taken her out for a drive yet, to be honest still terrified lol!!!
The Leads for 4 & 6 were in the wrong spot on the coil.
I cleaned all the connectors, took the plugs out, cleaned them. 4 & 6 were black, flooded etc etc.
And got her running, but the Adaptive levels seem off.
Also, when I blip the accelerator, the revs don't drop, but rise momentarily before dropping. Any ideas?
I have not taken her out for a drive yet, to be honest still terrified lol!!!
Yes, tricky to get the adapatives exactly the same at idle, but very close balancing on each cylinder can be done with a lot of patience!
One chief mechanic at a dealer I know well said that after balancing with a Synchrometer they do the final adjustment to the balance between the front three and rear three cylinders by adjusting the screw slightly to get the adaptives as close as possible.
As for the revs, is the throttle cable sticking at all? If so, often due to fraying at the pedel end.
One chief mechanic at a dealer I know well said that after balancing with a Synchrometer they do the final adjustment to the balance between the front three and rear three cylinders by adjusting the screw slightly to get the adaptives as close as possible.
As for the revs, is the throttle cable sticking at all? If so, often due to fraying at the pedel end.
Not the able, seems that the butterfly for the #1 cylinder does not return to the same position as the others straight away, takes about 1-2 secs for it.
I checked, idled it, used my hand on the throttle, rev'ed up. When I moved the #1 adjuster bracket up with my finger it instantly returned to perfect idle.
I think it needs some adjusting again.
I checked, idled it, used my hand on the throttle, rev'ed up. When I moved the #1 adjuster bracket up with my finger it instantly returned to perfect idle.
I think it needs some adjusting again.
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