Testing whether a mains cable is live
Discussion
Hello,
Hoping to run something by those more familiar with home electrics.
I'm doing some basic troubleshooting on a couple of issues in my new house.
In the first case, after routing through several outhouses (where the electrics work), a cable then leads to the garage (where they do not). I'd like to establish to which point electricity is flowing to identify what's broken.
The second is to double check that a particular circuit is off prior to replacing a flood light.
Would something as simple as the below give me a simple 'yes or no' answer, or do I need to invest in something more fancy?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-mains-tester...
Hoping to run something by those more familiar with home electrics.
I'm doing some basic troubleshooting on a couple of issues in my new house.
In the first case, after routing through several outhouses (where the electrics work), a cable then leads to the garage (where they do not). I'd like to establish to which point electricity is flowing to identify what's broken.
The second is to double check that a particular circuit is off prior to replacing a flood light.
Would something as simple as the below give me a simple 'yes or no' answer, or do I need to invest in something more fancy?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-mains-tester...
I use a phase tester all the time and check both "live" and "neutral" cables to make sure the power is off to the circuit I am going to work on. I usually turn off all power of with the master switch rather than individual circuits at the fuse board.
Many years ago I lived in a house where the fuses had been wired into the neutral side of the supply. Fortunately a "sparky" friend sorted that out as there are some jobs I will not tackle.
Many years ago I lived in a house where the fuses had been wired into the neutral side of the supply. Fortunately a "sparky" friend sorted that out as there are some jobs I will not tackle.
onedsla said:
Hello,
Hoping to run something by those more familiar with home electrics.
I'm doing some basic troubleshooting on a couple of issues in my new house.
In the first case, after routing through several outhouses (where the electrics work), a cable then leads to the garage (where they do not). I'd like to establish to which point electricity is flowing to identify what's broken.
The second is to double check that a particular circuit is off prior to replacing a flood light.
Would something as simple as the below give me a simple 'yes or no' answer, or do I need to invest in something more fancy?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-mains-tester...
Trust my life to device worth £1.79 inc Vat . Hoping to run something by those more familiar with home electrics.
I'm doing some basic troubleshooting on a couple of issues in my new house.
In the first case, after routing through several outhouses (where the electrics work), a cable then leads to the garage (where they do not). I'd like to establish to which point electricity is flowing to identify what's broken.
The second is to double check that a particular circuit is off prior to replacing a flood light.
Would something as simple as the below give me a simple 'yes or no' answer, or do I need to invest in something more fancy?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-mains-tester...
Let me think about that a moment.
FlossyThePig said:
I use a phase tester all the time and check both "live" and "neutral" cables to make sure the power is off to the circuit I am going to work on. I usually turn off all power of with the master switch rather than individual circuits at the fuse board.
Many years ago I lived in a house where the fuses had been wired into the neutral side of the supply. Fortunately a "sparky" friend sorted that out as there are some jobs I will not tackle.
So maybe best to check live to earth, as well then.Many years ago I lived in a house where the fuses had been wired into the neutral side of the supply. Fortunately a "sparky" friend sorted that out as there are some jobs I will not tackle.
http://www.esc.org.uk/fileadmin/user_upload/docume...
Edited by auto1 on Wednesday 15th January 14:42
auto1 said:
So maybe best to check live to earth, as well then.
http://www.esc.org.uk/fileadmin/user_upload/docume...
Thanks all - so a voltage indicator multimeter looks like a more suitable tool for the task.http://www.esc.org.uk/fileadmin/user_upload/docume...
Rickyy said:
Get yourself a multimeter and read up on some safe electrical isolation procedures.
It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
I wouldn't use a multimeter for this under any circumstances. Its really easy to have it set to the wrong function and just a bad idea.It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
Those crappy neon screwdrivers are very handy and I have one myself. I use it for mixing epoxy resin glue :-)
I use something similar to this http://www.tester.co.uk/metrel-tek900-led-voltage-...
ALWAYS prove the unit is working before AND after using it.
onedsla said:
Hello,
Hoping to run something by those more familiar with home electrics.
I'm doing some basic troubleshooting on a couple of issues in my new house.
In the first case, after routing through several outhouses (where the electrics work), a cable then leads to the garage (where they do not). I'd like to establish to which point electricity is flowing to identify what's broken.
The second is to double check that a particular circuit is off prior to replacing a flood light.
Would something as simple as the below give me a simple 'yes or no' answer, or do I need to invest in something more fancy?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-mains-tester...
Those are excellent for jemmying lids off smaller paint tins; as a reliable test instrument they are useless. The only thing you should ever trust is a proper test lamp with two probes - never trust anything with a single contact or a device that you wave near the cable. Multimeters will do the job, but I prefer to use a test lamp:Hoping to run something by those more familiar with home electrics.
I'm doing some basic troubleshooting on a couple of issues in my new house.
In the first case, after routing through several outhouses (where the electrics work), a cable then leads to the garage (where they do not). I'd like to establish to which point electricity is flowing to identify what's broken.
The second is to double check that a particular circuit is off prior to replacing a flood light.
Would something as simple as the below give me a simple 'yes or no' answer, or do I need to invest in something more fancy?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-mains-tester...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fluke-T90-Voltage-Continui...
- They do not need a battery to function
- The leads are protected by a fuse or current limiting device
- They do not rely on the user to ensure the leads are in the correct socket or the correct range is selected
JimbobVFR said:
Rickyy said:
Get yourself a multimeter and read up on some safe electrical isolation procedures.
It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
I wouldn't use a multimeter for this under any circumstances. Its really easy to have it set to the wrong function and just a bad idea.It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
Those crappy neon screwdrivers are very handy and I have one myself. I use it for mixing epoxy resin glue :-)
I use something similar to this http://www.tester.co.uk/metrel-tek900-led-voltage-...
ALWAYS prove the unit is working before AND after using it.
mrmr96 said:
JimbobVFR said:
Rickyy said:
Get yourself a multimeter and read up on some safe electrical isolation procedures.
It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
I wouldn't use a multimeter for this under any circumstances. Its really easy to have it set to the wrong function and just a bad idea.It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
Those crappy neon screwdrivers are very handy and I have one myself. I use it for mixing epoxy resin glue :-)
I use something similar to this http://www.tester.co.uk/metrel-tek900-led-voltage-...
ALWAYS prove the unit is working before AND after using it.
Ganglandboss said:
mrmr96 said:
JimbobVFR said:
Rickyy said:
Get yourself a multimeter and read up on some safe electrical isolation procedures.
It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
I wouldn't use a multimeter for this under any circumstances. Its really easy to have it set to the wrong function and just a bad idea.It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
Those crappy neon screwdrivers are very handy and I have one myself. I use it for mixing epoxy resin glue :-)
I use something similar to this http://www.tester.co.uk/metrel-tek900-led-voltage-...
ALWAYS prove the unit is working before AND after using it.
mrmr96 said:
Ganglandboss said:
mrmr96 said:
JimbobVFR said:
Rickyy said:
Get yourself a multimeter and read up on some safe electrical isolation procedures.
It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
I wouldn't use a multimeter for this under any circumstances. Its really easy to have it set to the wrong function and just a bad idea.It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
Those crappy neon screwdrivers are very handy and I have one myself. I use it for mixing epoxy resin glue :-)
I use something similar to this http://www.tester.co.uk/metrel-tek900-led-voltage-...
ALWAYS prove the unit is working before AND after using it.
I'd still use a multimeter over a neon screwdriver! All of the ones I've had (even cheap ones) have had recessed connectors at the meter end, so you'd have to be pretty unlucky for it to pull out and then touch the connector!
Of course you could hurt yourself if you'd set it incorrectly, but you shouldn't really be using one unless you are competent anyway!
The thing I don't like about the screwdrivers is the only light up between a certain range, so a live cable, which appears to be dead, could infact be live! (albeit at a low voltage)
if its a single supply then easy enough to test, you need to make sure the feed is not on a timed breaker or from another switched circuit that may show no potential at one time and change potential at another time. if a pair of cables are there things can become more involved, wont confuse the issue but shock from a neutral is poss and very dangerous should you become part of the circuit . have seen people simply touch all the wires together and see if it flashes or trips a breaker NOT RECOMMENDED pm me if you want a step by step done my apprenticeship 1970 lol from a 1.5v batt to over 33kv stay safe
mrmr96 said:
Ganglandboss said:
mrmr96 said:
JimbobVFR said:
Rickyy said:
Get yourself a multimeter and read up on some safe electrical isolation procedures.
It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
I wouldn't use a multimeter for this under any circumstances. Its really easy to have it set to the wrong function and just a bad idea.It's surprisingly easy to get a shock from what you may think is a dead cable!
Those crappy neon screwdrivers are very handy and I have one myself. I use it for mixing epoxy resin glue :-)
I use something similar to this http://www.tester.co.uk/metrel-tek900-led-voltage-...
ALWAYS prove the unit is working before AND after using it.
1) HSE GS38 approved test lamp
2) Multimeter with fused and double insulated test leads
3) That's it!
So what is the consensus on the best tool? I've always used a multimeter in the past for testing (live-neutral, live-earth, neutral-earth).
Speaking of testing... I have inherited an alarm panel - and when switched on shows an alert for 'earth fault'.
It powers two zones of smoke detectors @ around 67V, and bit of testing shows the fault is with one of the zones with about 10 smoke detectors. Simple testing is not showing any continuity between live/neutral & earth. The cables are all buried, so any suggestions on how one would find an earth fault? Or is it a case of getting a spark in with specialised equipment to locate rather than chasing out all the walls/ceilings.
Out of interest, as all the smoke detectors and panel are made of plastic etc, is an earth legally required for the LV side? - and if so, what is the cutoff when an LV circuit requires an earth?
Speaking of testing... I have inherited an alarm panel - and when switched on shows an alert for 'earth fault'.
It powers two zones of smoke detectors @ around 67V, and bit of testing shows the fault is with one of the zones with about 10 smoke detectors. Simple testing is not showing any continuity between live/neutral & earth. The cables are all buried, so any suggestions on how one would find an earth fault? Or is it a case of getting a spark in with specialised equipment to locate rather than chasing out all the walls/ceilings.
Out of interest, as all the smoke detectors and panel are made of plastic etc, is an earth legally required for the LV side? - and if so, what is the cutoff when an LV circuit requires an earth?
Brother D said:
So what is the consensus on the best tool? I've always used a multimeter in the past for testing (live-neutral, live-earth, neutral-earth).
Speaking of testing... I have inherited an alarm panel - and when switched on shows an alert for 'earth fault'.
It powers two zones of smoke detectors @ around 67V, and bit of testing shows the fault is with one of the zones with about 10 smoke detectors. Simple testing is not showing any continuity between live/neutral & earth. The cables are all buried, so any suggestions on how one would find an earth fault? Or is it a case of getting a spark in with specialised equipment to locate rather than chasing out all the walls/ceilings.
Out of interest, as all the smoke detectors and panel are made of plastic etc, is an earth legally required for the LV side? - and if so, what is the cutoff when an LV circuit requires an earth? its not always a voltage cut off point but the way the item is made, all plastic needs no earth some plastic with some metal may also not need earth if double insulated. all these item will have codes or a logo displayed an earth fault under ground could be a joint with damp getting in electrical issues are not east to find by chatting, hands on teating is required, as a pointer tho if you have 10 on a circuit, split the cicuit or remove a detector at a time fault finding can be a pain sometimes
Speaking of testing... I have inherited an alarm panel - and when switched on shows an alert for 'earth fault'.
It powers two zones of smoke detectors @ around 67V, and bit of testing shows the fault is with one of the zones with about 10 smoke detectors. Simple testing is not showing any continuity between live/neutral & earth. The cables are all buried, so any suggestions on how one would find an earth fault? Or is it a case of getting a spark in with specialised equipment to locate rather than chasing out all the walls/ceilings.
Out of interest, as all the smoke detectors and panel are made of plastic etc, is an earth legally required for the LV side? - and if so, what is the cutoff when an LV circuit requires an earth? its not always a voltage cut off point but the way the item is made, all plastic needs no earth some plastic with some metal may also not need earth if double insulated. all these item will have codes or a logo displayed an earth fault under ground could be a joint with damp getting in electrical issues are not east to find by chatting, hands on teating is required, as a pointer tho if you have 10 on a circuit, split the cicuit or remove a detector at a time fault finding can be a pain sometimes
FFS.......
OP, just get a local registered sparky to check it for you as it wont take long to check by someone who knows what they are doing.
At lease that way, a)you will still be alive and b) he can safely isolate it or recommend what would need doing etc.
If you dont want to do that, use one of these...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/kewtech-kt1780-s-ac-dc-v...
There are slightly cheaper ones around but i figured there must be one of these stores near you.
OP, just get a local registered sparky to check it for you as it wont take long to check by someone who knows what they are doing.
At lease that way, a)you will still be alive and b) he can safely isolate it or recommend what would need doing etc.
If you dont want to do that, use one of these...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/kewtech-kt1780-s-ac-dc-v...
There are slightly cheaper ones around but i figured there must be one of these stores near you.
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