Question on capping plastic plumbing pipes

[scz4]

So I have a 15mm plastic pipe I need to cut and terminate. I’ve found this pack of stop ends, but all of the reveiws say “ great temporary solution", what should I use to permanently cap it? It will be outside, so I’ll need to protect it from the frost, but that’s ok.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-stop-end-15m...

[blueg33]

Not a plumber but I would be looking for a solvent weld cap. The cap you show works on water pressure and can loosen if the pressure varies.

[scz4]

blueg33 said:

Not a plumber but I would be looking for a solvent weld cap. The cap you show works on water pressure and can loosen if the pressure varies.

Yeah that looks more like what I need. However, I can't find those for 15mm, all for bigger 40mm waste pipes etc.

Either way, I assume I would need a connector to join the end cap with the pipe, not a case of just tapping it on like with copper piping

Edited by scz4 on Thursday 31st March 10:29

[Dave_ST220]

Plastic to copper which is then capped off? I can't see why the above cap wouldn't be permanent? Surely they work like all the other plastic fixings??

[moustachebandit]

blueg33 said:

Not a plumber but I would be looking for a solvent weld cap. The cap you show works on water pressure and can loosen if the pressure varies.

Wrong. These caps are permanent (as are all plastic fittings) and don't require water pressure to work. Solvent weld is used for waste pipes.

OP - before you use one of these caps check the make of pipe you have. HEP/Speedfit etc then make sure you buy the right cap for the brand of pipe, the required pipe insert and a plastic pipe cutter (if you don't already have those things). Cut the pipe where you need it, add the insert and then push the end cap on and you are done.

The advantage to plastic over compression / solder is that it can be quickly popped off if needed.

[scz4]

moustachebandit said:

Wrong. These caps are permanent (as are all plastic fittings) and don't require water pressure to work. Solvent weld is used for waste pipes.

OP - before you use one of these caps check the make of pipe you have. HEP/Speedfit etc then make sure you buy the right cap for the brand of pipe, the required pipe insert and a plastic pipe cutter (if you don't already have those things). Cut the pipe where you need it, add the insert and then push the end cap on and you are done.

The advantage to plastic over compression / solder is that it can be quickly popped off if needed.

Thanks for that.

Excuse my ignorance, but would a hacksaw and file t smooth off not do the job for plastic

So I need to insert a sleeve like this and put the end cap on that right?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-sts15p-super...

[Dave_ST220]

Yep those are the inserts, you can do it with a hacksaw but a cutter can be had for next to nothing & makes life much easier....

[moustachebandit]

scz4 said:

moustachebandit said:

Wrong. These caps are permanent (as are all plastic fittings) and don't require water pressure to work. Solvent weld is used for waste pipes.

OP - before you use one of these caps check the make of pipe you have. HEP/Speedfit etc then make sure you buy the right cap for the brand of pipe, the required pipe insert and a plastic pipe cutter (if you don't already have those things). Cut the pipe where you need it, add the insert and then push the end cap on and you are done.

The advantage to plastic over compression / solder is that it can be quickly popped off if needed.

Thanks for that.

Excuse my ignorance, but would a hacksaw and file t smooth off not do the job for plastic

So I need to insert a sleeve like this and put the end cap on that right?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-sts15p-super...

Thats right, you drop the insert into the pipe, push it home and then the cap sits over the end, again push it home so its nice and tight and then give it a light tug in the opposite direction to check its locked in place.

However check what pipe you have. If you have Speedfit then the inserts and fixings are different to HEP02, which are also different to PolyPlumb so match the fixing to the pipe. Mixing pipe and fixing can cause a disaster. The pipe should have something stamped on it to let you know the brand.

Cutting the pipe with a saw .... Honestly I wouldn't. You might get away with it but unless its a clean, smooth & square cut - the cap or insert may not sit properly. You can buy a cutter for about £3 or so.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Plastic-Pipe-Cutter...

If you can drag yourself to a branch PTS / City Plumbing etc then you will find the same set of cutters for less.

[mildmannered]

Seeing as it's outside, I would use a compression fitting. I'm not sure how UV stable these fittings are, and they can be tampered with without using tools.

[blueg33]

moustachebandit said:

blueg33 said:

Not a plumber but I would be looking for a solvent weld cap. The cap you show works on water pressure and can loosen if the pressure varies.

L
Wrong. These caps are permanent (as are all plastic fittings) and don't require water pressure to work. Solvent weld is used for waste pipes.

OP - before you use one of these caps check the make of pipe you have. HEP/Speedfit etc then make sure you buy the right cap for the brand of pipe, the required pipe insert and a plastic pipe cutter (if you don't already have those things). Cut the pipe where you need it, add the insert and then push the end cap on and you are done.

The advantage to plastic over compression / solder is that it can be quickly popped off if needed.

A number of this type of fittings have popped off on new homes when we commission the water systems. They do not like fluctuating pressures. My customer care team would confirm.

[Spudler]

blueg33 said:

moustachebandit said:

blueg33 said:

Not a plumber but I would be looking for a solvent weld cap. The cap you show works on water pressure and can loosen if the pressure varies.

L
Wrong. These caps are permanent (as are all plastic fittings) and don't require water pressure to work. Solvent weld is used for waste pipes.

OP - before you use one of these caps check the make of pipe you have. HEP/Speedfit etc then make sure you buy the right cap for the brand of pipe, the required pipe insert and a plastic pipe cutter (if you don't already have those things). Cut the pipe where you need it, add the insert and then push the end cap on and you are done.

The advantage to plastic over compression / solder is that it can be quickly popped off if needed.

A number of this type of fittings have popped off on new homes when we commission the water systems. They do not like fluctuating pressures. My customer care team would confirm.

Without wanting to start the usual arguing on here I find that very hard to believe.
In all my years in the building game the only time there's a problem is through bad workmanship.
If fitted correctly (and using the correct tool for cutting, not a fking hacksaw) they are excellent fittings.

[blueg33]

Spudler said:

blueg33 said:

moustachebandit said:

blueg33 said:

Not a plumber but I would be looking for a solvent weld cap. The cap you show works on water pressure and can loosen if the pressure varies.

L
Wrong. These caps are permanent (as are all plastic fittings) and don't require water pressure to work. Solvent weld is used for waste pipes.

OP - before you use one of these caps check the make of pipe you have. HEP/Speedfit etc then make sure you buy the right cap for the brand of pipe, the required pipe insert and a plastic pipe cutter (if you don't already have those things). Cut the pipe where you need it, add the insert and then push the end cap on and you are done.

The advantage to plastic over compression / solder is that it can be quickly popped off if needed.

A number of this type of fittings have popped off on new homes when we commission the water systems. They do not like fluctuating pressures. My customer care team would confirm.

Without wanting to start the usual arguing on here I find that very hard to believe.
In all my years in the building game the only time there's a problem is through bad workmanship.
If fitted correctly (and using the correct tool for cutting, not a fking hacksaw) they are excellent fittings.

It was about 15 years ago when we started to use them, we had the issue on a number of sites. The well known manufacturer of the parts investigated and could only come up with varying pressure as the cause. We addressed the problem by changing the way the mains Coldwater system was commissioned. I got to hear the explanation at acBoard meeting and to authorise the repairs in a number of units.

[herewego]

scz4 said:

Thanks for that.

Excuse my ignorance, but would a hacksaw and file t smooth off not do the job for plastic

So I need to insert a sleeve like this and put the end cap on that right?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-sts15p-super...

Don't put a file or sandpaper near the pipe. The cap seals on the outside of the pipe and the pipe needs to be in good nick, no scratches, cuts or sandpapering.

[moustachebandit]

Spudler said:

blueg33 said:

moustachebandit said:

blueg33 said:

Not a plumber but I would be looking for a solvent weld cap. The cap you show works on water pressure and can loosen if the pressure varies.

L
Wrong. These caps are permanent (as are all plastic fittings) and don't require water pressure to work. Solvent weld is used for waste pipes.

OP - before you use one of these caps check the make of pipe you have. HEP/Speedfit etc then make sure you buy the right cap for the brand of pipe, the required pipe insert and a plastic pipe cutter (if you don't already have those things). Cut the pipe where you need it, add the insert and then push the end cap on and you are done.

The advantage to plastic over compression / solder is that it can be quickly popped off if needed.

A number of this type of fittings have popped off on new homes when we commission the water systems. They do not like fluctuating pressures. My customer care team would confirm.

Without wanting to start the usual arguing on here I find that very hard to believe.
In all my years in the building game the only time there's a problem is through bad workmanship.
If fitted correctly (and using the correct tool for cutting, not a fking hacksaw) they are excellent fittings.

Likewise - its a great system. Obviously if its installed incorrectly then it will fail but that same logic applies to solder and compression fittings as well.

[Paul Drawmer]

It's sometimes a good idea to put a pencil mark on the pipe to tell you when it is fully home in the fitting. Otherwise, it can pop off later without warning. You MUST use the insert.

[thebraketester]

Paul Drawmer said:

It's sometimes a good idea to put a pencil mark on the pipe to tell you when it is fully home in the fitting. Otherwise, it can pop off later without warning. You MUST use the insert.

The pipes are usually marked with cutting lines and lines to help you know when the fitting it pushed on far enough

[silversurfer1]

Insert and compression cap (cones) is the way to go.

Im with blue egg

Plastic really is crap in my view, it sags looks crap and relies on O rings to seal, it also takes the art out of plumbing any idiot can push a fitting on to a piece of tube. My friend owns 3 flats one above each other he had a plastic push fit come apart in the top flat loft space and the tenants were out brought all 3 ceiling down from top to bottom.

It does of course have its benefits its cheap, has good insulation values, nobody will steal it once its fitted and its very fast and easy to use compared to traditional copper which is why it is universally used on all sites now days.

Ive built 3 houses for myself in the past and have always used copper, just going to start my first commercial development of 7 small ones and will be using plastic says it all really

SS

[scz4]

Thanks for the advise today. I just took some pictures to show you guys hat I'm trying to do. I need to cut it just after the 90 degree bend. It might be a bit tight to get a pipe cutter in between the wall, but appreciate it's the best option so will try it, the other end goes under ground.

I also can't see a particular brand on the pipe lettering, any thoughts on this?

[dirkgently]

Just take the elbow off and replace with a compression cap, simples.

[thebraketester]

Cant you access it from inside to block it off internally?