Cottage for sale. Is it worth it?
Discussion
Hi all,
I just wanted your opinions on this cottage that's for sale in my area:
http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/prope...
Its in a rural location, uses a septic tank (doesn't bother me), I have a viewing this Saturday. The seller is a corporate company. the house was part ex from an elderly couple that have moved into a retirement apartment.
I've asked various questions before the viewing. One thing they did say is that another buyer is interested in the property and has had a damp specialist come in quoting 3-3.k to insert a DPC. Now from what I have read is it doesn't need a DPC as it has never had one. Could this just be a case of maybe guttering, roof leak, wrong material used on walls etc?
The cottage was built in 1680. The plan is to make a sensible offer and if it becomes mine I have a budget of about 10k, maybe a little more for refurb and then live in it for a number of years before selling. I don't want to pay thousands on trying to diminish damp before I can lift a paintbrush.
What's everyone's opinion?
thank you
Michael
I just wanted your opinions on this cottage that's for sale in my area:
http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/prope...
Its in a rural location, uses a septic tank (doesn't bother me), I have a viewing this Saturday. The seller is a corporate company. the house was part ex from an elderly couple that have moved into a retirement apartment.
I've asked various questions before the viewing. One thing they did say is that another buyer is interested in the property and has had a damp specialist come in quoting 3-3.k to insert a DPC. Now from what I have read is it doesn't need a DPC as it has never had one. Could this just be a case of maybe guttering, roof leak, wrong material used on walls etc?
The cottage was built in 1680. The plan is to make a sensible offer and if it becomes mine I have a budget of about 10k, maybe a little more for refurb and then live in it for a number of years before selling. I don't want to pay thousands on trying to diminish damp before I can lift a paintbrush.
What's everyone's opinion?
thank you
Michael
If you really like the place (and you won't really know until your own viewing) then it may be worth investing some time or money in your own survey or, possibly, get an independent opinion just on the damp if that is what is bothering you.
Although it is rather nice of the agents to volunteer the information that another buyer has a quote for £3k to rectify damp, that doesn't necessarily mean that the work needs doing, or that it would cost £3k.
If it DOES need that work, then you can factor it into the price you offer - especially if other buyers are finding the same.
Although it is rather nice of the agents to volunteer the information that another buyer has a quote for £3k to rectify damp, that doesn't necessarily mean that the work needs doing, or that it would cost £3k.
If it DOES need that work, then you can factor it into the price you offer - especially if other buyers are finding the same.
Thanks for the reply. I've been to the cottage twice and peered through the windows, ha-ha and did notice some damp on one of the internal walls. Exterior wise for the age of the building it did appear to be in good condition although this was a quick visual and I don't know what plaster has been used (lime or Gypsum) or Mortor type.
I think the best course of action may be to take a good specialist in to try to find the root cause. Just concerned that if I instruct a surveyor they may come back with 'house riddled with damp. Please contact a specialist'. I'd want a more thorough examination.
Getting a little ahead of myself as I want, want, want. Just hope I don't get in to a bidding war with these other 'interested people', they may not even exist and if they do I would love to know what offer they have already submitted. The estate agent dropped that bit of info on m to keep my on my toes.
I think the best course of action may be to take a good specialist in to try to find the root cause. Just concerned that if I instruct a surveyor they may come back with 'house riddled with damp. Please contact a specialist'. I'd want a more thorough examination.
Getting a little ahead of myself as I want, want, want. Just hope I don't get in to a bidding war with these other 'interested people', they may not even exist and if they do I would love to know what offer they have already submitted. The estate agent dropped that bit of info on m to keep my on my toes.
Edited by michael010389 on Wednesday 16th August 15:07
If it's from 1680, then it does NOT need DPC. Anybody who suggests it does is likely to be wearing a stetson while chewing a piece of straw. If there really is damp, then it will be because some idiot has stopped the natural ventilation in the area or interfered with the natural permeability of the lime mortar.
COI: current house is from 1735, and the previous one was from 1660.
COI: current house is from 1735, and the previous one was from 1660.
I was also recommended a DPC on my cottage following my survey, but in very cryptic terms.
When I phoned the surveyor. he confirmed it would be a waste of time but for insurance reasons he had to suggest it.
4 years later I have a 200 year old cottage with a bit of damp and don't give a damn, it doesn't create mould so I live with it
When I phoned the surveyor. he confirmed it would be a waste of time but for insurance reasons he had to suggest it.
4 years later I have a 200 year old cottage with a bit of damp and don't give a damn, it doesn't create mould so I live with it
QuickQuack said:
If it's from 1680, then it does NOT need DPC. Anybody who suggests it does is likely to be wearing a stetson while chewing a piece of straw. If there really is damp, then it will be because some idiot has stopped the natural ventilation in the area or interfered with the natural permeability of the lime mortar.
COI: current house is from 1735, and the previous one was from 1660.
Correct, allowing the building to breath is the answer to damp problems in old houses. Many people used seal up old buildings with inappropriate materials like cement and double glazing. Worst thing to do is try and make it a modern sealed box!! COI: current house is from 1735, and the previous one was from 1660.
For expert advise and guidence in addition to this thread www.periodproperty.co.uk
Where did you get the 1680 date from? I'd say that 1860 would be more accurate...
As someone else has said surveyors have to be OCD about even the tiniest potential issue with a property in order to cover themselves. The guy who did the structural survey on our C18th house noted several areas that "needed" addressing, but in reality we've not touched any of them. What we did do was bring in a damp specialist to look at the highlighted areas who was obviously better qualified to judge what did or didn't need doing as that was all he covered rather than being a jack of all trades*. I suggest you do the same as damp isn't something to be ignored, but of course you don't want to be put off the house for no reason either.
It's a lovely house, especially if you can make something more of the outside area, and it's on the edge of some lovely countryside.
* no disrespect to our resident surveyors!
As someone else has said surveyors have to be OCD about even the tiniest potential issue with a property in order to cover themselves. The guy who did the structural survey on our C18th house noted several areas that "needed" addressing, but in reality we've not touched any of them. What we did do was bring in a damp specialist to look at the highlighted areas who was obviously better qualified to judge what did or didn't need doing as that was all he covered rather than being a jack of all trades*. I suggest you do the same as damp isn't something to be ignored, but of course you don't want to be put off the house for no reason either.
It's a lovely house, especially if you can make something more of the outside area, and it's on the edge of some lovely countryside.
* no disrespect to our resident surveyors!
Unexpected Item In The Bagging Area said:
Where did you get the 1680 date from? I'd say that 1860 would be more accurate...
Sounds a better bet.crankedup said:
Correct, allowing the building to breath is the answer to damp problems in old houses. Many people used seal up old buildings with inappropriate materials like cement and double glazing. Worst thing to do is try and make it a modern sealed box!!
For expert advise and guidence in addition to this thread www.periodproperty.co.uk
A couple of things struck me: it may have been vacant for some time and sealed up; when the old couple were there they may not have allowed much ventilation and unwittingly caused some of the issues themselves.For expert advise and guidence in addition to this thread www.periodproperty.co.uk
In conclusion: check all the old favourites like drains, rooves, chimneys and gutters but maybe just living there with some heat and ventilation will do the trick (after a good clean of course
)I'm Congleton born and bred, so can give you the info that there is going to be a bypass built running fairly close to that location. Can't say exact location, but it's going from the A34 Newcastle Road area and hitting the A34 again on the Manchester Road crossing Giantswood Lane somewhere along it.
Might not bother you though, but, once the bypass is built expect a lot more housing infill and stopping it being rural/semi rural. Had an awful lot of newbuild around Congleton in recent years.
Might not bother you though, but, once the bypass is built expect a lot more housing infill and stopping it being rural/semi rural. Had an awful lot of newbuild around Congleton in recent years.
Yea it's scary how many new builds are being built at the moment. Luckily there's a lot of private land to one side of the cottage and a private lake. It will be fairly close to the house but not enough for disturbance I hope. I've been looking at maps a lot at the surrounding area and have sort of worked out where the link road will be
Unexpected Item In The Bagging Area said:
Where did you get the 1680 date from? I'd say that 1860 would be more accurate...
Look at the interior. The facade looks Victorian, but the beams look far older. Could well be a 17th century building that was face-lifted in the 19th century.(I'm currently standing next to a 15th C interior wall opposite a 17th C staircase, a 16th C fireplace, with a 19th C exterior wall. That's old houses for you.)
We live in a stone farmhouse form 1655, it has damp in a couple of areas, mostly because the guttering was leaking which meant the earth by that part of the house was saturated, also someone has built up the outside ground level and stacked soil against a cement render they put onto the stone. In the coming years we'll be taking the earth away, strip the render off and tidy it all up.
Houses like these were never meant to have a DPC, if you put one in you'll create more problems than you've got now.
Until we fix our damp we just run a dehumidifier for a couple of hours a day, it pretty much keeps on top of it.
Houses like these were never meant to have a DPC, if you put one in you'll create more problems than you've got now.
Until we fix our damp we just run a dehumidifier for a couple of hours a day, it pretty much keeps on top of it.
We viewed the cottage this morning. I really like it. The only thing I did notice was some of the brickwork looked as though it had been re pointed with cement as opposed to using lime (May be wrong though). Some of the interior walls had damp. Upstairs had a damp wall but I noticed some tiles missing from the roof. A couple of cement bags were blocking one of the chimney breasts. Proobaly to keep the house warm but it didn't seem to be breathing at the moment. It wasn't a cold house as well which I was surprised.
I also noticed where paint had peeled probably from damp, it looked as though gypsum plaster had been used but the plaster didn't look damp it looked damp on painted walls but couldn't see whether gypsum was underneath or lime plaster.
I have to look at worse case scenario. Hacking lots of plaster and replacing with lime and the worded case would be reprinting in line (expensive). I'm new to this type of build though but just going off what I've read.
I could unblock the fireplace and check air bricks, fix any missing tiles and who knows, with cement pointing and gypsum here and there it could be fine.
Ground floor felt solid. Not sure if there used to be floorboards on the ground level. I know a slab of concrete could cause damp if it wasn't built that way originally. You just never know what people do until you start ripping stuff out
It is 1682. As the sign said so very old, not that, that would ever put me off.
I also noticed where paint had peeled probably from damp, it looked as though gypsum plaster had been used but the plaster didn't look damp it looked damp on painted walls but couldn't see whether gypsum was underneath or lime plaster.
I have to look at worse case scenario. Hacking lots of plaster and replacing with lime and the worded case would be reprinting in line (expensive). I'm new to this type of build though but just going off what I've read.
I could unblock the fireplace and check air bricks, fix any missing tiles and who knows, with cement pointing and gypsum here and there it could be fine.
Ground floor felt solid. Not sure if there used to be floorboards on the ground level. I know a slab of concrete could cause damp if it wasn't built that way originally. You just never know what people do until you start ripping stuff out
It is 1682. As the sign said so very old, not that, that would ever put me off.
Edited by michael010389 on Saturday 19th August 12:35
Edited by michael010389 on Saturday 19th August 12:43
Edited by michael010389 on Saturday 19th August 12:47
also is run on LPG. I also noticed the ground floor felt very solid. whether this was originally floorboards i'm not sure. floor could have been cemented over, transferring damp to internal walls. May be worth enquiring with neighbours next door to see if they've had any issues with damp.
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