Bodging kitchen corner units smaller?

[mcg_]

The Moose said:

I can’t quite tell, but those doors look like they’ll be a bh to cut down - they look like they’ll chip all over the shop.

You’d be able to do it I recon, it must be similar to cutting a laminate worktop. A good plunge saw or track saw? (Not sure which one).

[Ashtray83]

^ That style are normally mdf so will cut fine

[timberman]

mcg_ said:

The Moose said:

I can’t quite tell, but those doors look like they’ll be a bh to cut down - they look like they’ll chip all over the shop.

You’d be able to do it I recon, it must be similar to cutting a laminate worktop. A good plunge saw or track saw? (Not sure which one).

much better to use a router

any saw even with a fine tooth blade will cause break out on the laminate finish

[marcg]

90cm oven with 7cm fillers each side? Or 60cm oven with 22cm slot cupboards or wine racks or something else that looks alright that narrow? I think you will struggle to cut the doors down to 22cm and have them look ok.

[dickymint]

Buy an eye level oven and use the space under for storage.

[AndrewCrown]

B

Can you disconect the drawers from the right handside.. Use them for the right hand side of the cooker so you have an 'L' Shape...
Would be a bit more spacious and not so hemmed in... DItch the wall cupboards... use shelves and hang the pans overhead on a pulleymaid type thing...

[bristolbaron]

timberman said:

A router would actually be the best tool for cutting both the doors the shelves and back panels as it will give the neatest and most accurate cut.

you don't need to spend a fortune but I would recommend one with a half inch chuck + get yourself a decent straight cutter,
you'll also need a straight edge you can clamp to the panels/doors to get a neat cut

once you've dismantled the units and cut the parts to size you can just fasten the sides and back to the shelves with screws rather than messing about with dowels as where the cabinets are situated the screws won't be on show anyway.

Okay, it's on! I've dismantled the units this evening, they weren't glued so that was a bonus.
I've sourced a router, I just need to find a straight bit [Will I need more than one?] and straight edge.. Can I use a spirit level for this or should I use an offcut of scrap metal? Or something else?!

Thanks all.

[EireEng]

Spirit level should be fine; clamp it to a scrap piece of timber as a guide, start a cut, and then measure the offset from the cut edge to the spirit level.
Then clamp it down to the cabinet piece at 11cm + that offset & you're laughing. I've used a spirit level clamped down to cut the counter-tops in a non-square kitchen and never had any issues.
Did the router not come with an edge guide?

[timberman]

bristolbaron said:

timberman said:

A router would actually be the best tool for cutting both the doors the shelves and back panels as it will give the neatest and most accurate cut.

you don't need to spend a fortune but I would recommend one with a half inch chuck + get yourself a decent straight cutter,
you'll also need a straight edge you can clamp to the panels/doors to get a neat cut

once you've dismantled the units and cut the parts to size you can just fasten the sides and back to the shelves with screws rather than messing about with dowels as where the cabinets are situated the screws won't be on show anyway.

Okay, it's on! I've dismantled the units this evening, they weren't glued so that was a bonus.
I've sourced a router, I just need to find a straight bit [Will I need more than one?] and straight edge.. Can I use a spirit level for this or should I use an offcut of scrap metal? Or something else?!

Thanks all.

as EireEng above says a spirit level will be fine, actually anything straight is ok as long as you can clamp it in place, run your router along it and it won't flex when applying pressure.
just make sure you clamp it well so it wont move when you apply pressure + you can use some offcuts between the clamp face and your shelves if your worried about marking them.

remember the router goes from left to right when you cut, (the rotation of the bit will naturally pull the router toward your straight edge)

you should be fine with just one bit,
you can also buy kitchen fitter sets fairly cheaply which usually come with a couple of 50mm straight bits, a 60mm straight bit and a bearing guided trimmer.
don't try and make the cut in one pass, 2 or 3 passes is about right increasing the depth each time

as mentioned your router should have a guide included, you could try this instead of the straight edge but they can be a bit tricky to use first time out so I'd recommend sticking with the straight edge

it's a good idea to make a practice cut 1st just to get used to the cutting action, also make sure you set your depth stop and consider what you're clamping your work to when you make the cut, as you may end up cutting through something you didn't intend to.

the router is also the perfect tool for cutting your worktops, especially if you want to make a nice neat join in the corners.

anything else you need to know just ask.

[bristolbaron]

Thanks both, I don't have the router in hand yet, so have no idea if it has a guide!
I've been meaning to get a decent level anyway and will need one for marking unit heights, my old plastic stanley is banana shaped!
Hopefully I'll have this all done by the weekend so will post up results.

Cheers

[AlmostUseful]

For what it’s worth, I have a Stanley Fat Max level and it’s got plastic handles/grips which stand proud and make it useless for using as a straight edge in these instances - so take that into account when choosing a straight edge.

[campionissimo]

Stabilo levels are your friend........

[Risotto]

Another option might be to cut the intruding sections off both corner units and put an open wine rack in on each side. You might just have enough room in the middle for an oven. It's not going to do your wine any good but you can't have everything...!

You can either make them - out of the cupboard offcuts (they only need to be shallow, so there may be enough material) or out of end panels in a closely matching colour, or you can buy them ready made, e.g. http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Oakmont-Or-Tulsa-Wi...

Edited by Risotto on Tuesday 21st November 12:12

[Marcellus]

I assume you'll be getting a worktop fitted, if you go for wood why not just trim the backs of the two corner units so the cooker will fit and then sculpt the worktop so it flows and widens above them, that way the two cupboards on the rest of the walls would remain full sized, less cutting for you and you'd add an interesting shape to the kitchen as opposed to a straight U.

[Rosscow]

jas xjr said:

as a bodger of many years standing , i feel qualified to answer.

make the cuts to the side of the units that butt up to the wall. so you are cutting the backs of the units. using a circular saw this should be fairly easy. if you attempt to cut the units either side of where the cooker needs to go, it is possible but needs more accuracy and work.

i hope that makes sense , somebody more qualified should be along soon.

edited to add. strengthen the units with scrap wood before you cut them. fitted to the side of the unit that you inted to retain.

Edited by jas xjr on Sunday 19th November 17:41

Don't do this!!

[Esotericstuff]

To cut the 'leg' of the L down a bit to fit an oven in, is going to leave a very messy cut edge on the door.

As suggested, either go for an eye level oven and a narrow drawer unit to fill the gap, or cut both units down to corner units with only one door and fit smaller pull out larder units or filler panel(s), either side of the oven.

[EireEng]

RE Levels I bought a laser level off eBay recently for 30 quid. The quality is pure shyte (well, it was 30 quid...) but if you can get over that, I find it brilliant. I've built a few stud walls and hung stuff off walls with it. It's worth it's weight in gold compared to a spirit level IMO. It probably wouldn't last a week on a building site but for DIY stuff it's been brilliant.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Level-Self-Levell...

[AlmostUseful]

Wish i’d Seen that level when I was doing my kitchen, I’ve got a dividing wall and managed to get the worktops about 8mm different to each!

[dugt]

Rosscow said:

jas xjr said:

as a bodger of many years standing , i feel qualified to answer.

make the cuts to the side of the units that butt up to the wall. so you are cutting the backs of the units. using a circular saw this should be fairly easy. if you attempt to cut the units either side of where the cooker needs to go, it is possible but needs more accuracy and work.

i hope that makes sense , somebody more qualified should be along soon.

edited to add. strengthen the units with scrap wood before you cut them. fitted to the side of the unit that you inted to retain.

Edited by jas xjr on Sunday 19th November 17:41

Don't do this!!

Why not?
Cutting the doors is madness, your never going to recreate the factory finish at home

Cut all the service gaps off, pipes under the units, cut the works tops to fit

[iwantagta]

How about a solution which requires no cutting?

Simply flip the right unit over, screw the feet on the "top" and have it upside down. Just need to flip and reattach all the drawers etc.....

Like this;

Also gives you an exciting "chicane" every time you enter the kitchen.

Bing bang bodge. Job done.