Modification to car ramp - need structural calculations
Discussion
I’m waiting for an extra couple of ramps to be delivered to me one of which I’m going to use to store a car in an out of the way place at the end of the garage.
It’s a one post ramp and it will be next to the garage wall. Take a look at the foot that protrudes under the car to keep it stable. Now imagine how cool it would be without that getting in your way - you just know I’ll fall over the foot six times a day and I want to get rid of it.
I’ve seen a one post ramp with no foot (different manufacturer) that is just bolted to the floor but I’m way too chicken to try that and even then I don’t like the idea of just bolts into concrete handling all that tension.
So here is my question. If I cut the foot off and welded up an extension frame from the back of the base up the wall, how could I work out how much force I would end up acting on the wall and then could I spread that force sideways with spreader bars? I can’t imagine the load will be that much if the other manufacturer manages it on just bolts, but I need experience not experiments obviously with regard to the calcs. I did take a look at a few websites about bending loads and stuff but it took about two minutes until I realised that I was out of my depth!
The ramp has a capacity of 2.5 tonnes, weighs 600 kg itself.
Thanks for any help!
It’s a one post ramp and it will be next to the garage wall. Take a look at the foot that protrudes under the car to keep it stable. Now imagine how cool it would be without that getting in your way - you just know I’ll fall over the foot six times a day and I want to get rid of it.
I’ve seen a one post ramp with no foot (different manufacturer) that is just bolted to the floor but I’m way too chicken to try that and even then I don’t like the idea of just bolts into concrete handling all that tension.
So here is my question. If I cut the foot off and welded up an extension frame from the back of the base up the wall, how could I work out how much force I would end up acting on the wall and then could I spread that force sideways with spreader bars? I can’t imagine the load will be that much if the other manufacturer manages it on just bolts, but I need experience not experiments obviously with regard to the calcs. I did take a look at a few websites about bending loads and stuff but it took about two minutes until I realised that I was out of my depth!
The ramp has a capacity of 2.5 tonnes, weighs 600 kg itself.
Thanks for any help!
Why not just go for a normal two-poster? They're available either with a minimal tray across the floor, or flat floor with the gubbins overhead.
I really don't think I'd fancy hanging all the forces off a wall (block, presumably?), unless it was designed for it. That's a lot of pull in a direction walls simply aren't designed for.
I really don't think I'd fancy hanging all the forces off a wall (block, presumably?), unless it was designed for it. That's a lot of pull in a direction walls simply aren't designed for.
Morning!
I’ve already got a two poster on the way as well for somewhere else in the garage and a four poster double ramp already installed. I use the double four poster for storage and will use the two poster for mechanical work. This single poster will be used for storage also mainly but where it is going if I use another two poster the second post will be in the middle of the room - I agonised for hours over that before I ordered the single post one for there.
It will still work fine with the foot but would be better without.
I wouldn’t have even thought of it unless I’d seen this one:
But once I’d seen that I couldn’t unsee it and it got me thinking about forces.
It’s a double block wall, yes.
I was thinking I could go with two three inch box sections from floor to rafters in the ceiling (2.8m) with them bolted to the wall and the anchor the ramp to those. Could even go with a horizontal box section at the top all the way across - 5/6m - so a huge “T” with the ramp at the middle of it.
I’ve already got a two poster on the way as well for somewhere else in the garage and a four poster double ramp already installed. I use the double four poster for storage and will use the two poster for mechanical work. This single poster will be used for storage also mainly but where it is going if I use another two poster the second post will be in the middle of the room - I agonised for hours over that before I ordered the single post one for there.
It will still work fine with the foot but would be better without.
I wouldn’t have even thought of it unless I’d seen this one:
But once I’d seen that I couldn’t unsee it and it got me thinking about forces.
It’s a double block wall, yes.
I was thinking I could go with two three inch box sections from floor to rafters in the ceiling (2.8m) with them bolted to the wall and the anchor the ramp to those. Could even go with a horizontal box section at the top all the way across - 5/6m - so a huge “T” with the ramp at the middle of it.
Edited by Julian Thompson on Sunday 22 April 09:27
Ps the manufacturer of the baseless yellow lift gives precise concrete specs that they need to be followed to use their bolts to hold that one down. I can’t assure them that my concrete is anything other than a new, good quality, mesh reinforced slab of 8 inches thickness. So I can’t go for that one. And to be honest I just wouldn’t trust expansion bolts into concrete - just a bit wierd that! Sure it’s fine but looks wierd!
Julian Thompson said:
So do we think modifying the ramp is a *really bad* idea?
I think everyone would agree that you need a structural engineer to work it out.The problem is that they err so far on the side of caution by doubling loads and halving strengths that you'd end up with a steel wall.
V8RX7 said:
I think everyone would agree that you need a structural engineer to work it out.
The problem is that they err so far on the side of caution by doubling loads and halving strengths that you'd end up with a steel wall.
Which, let's be honest, is a LOT better than the other way round.The problem is that they err so far on the side of caution by doubling loads and halving strengths that you'd end up with a steel wall.
Perhaps speak to the manufacturer?
I needed a lift that didn't conform to standard sizes. Spoke to a manufacturer and they modified one for me.
The benefit of that being that they'll have either done the job properly, or your claim for a bundle of scrap on your garage floor is with them rather than your bank account
I needed a lift that didn't conform to standard sizes. Spoke to a manufacturer and they modified one for me.
The benefit of that being that they'll have either done the job properly, or your claim for a bundle of scrap on your garage floor is with them rather than your bank account
When looking at putting up hammocks, I checked the pull-out force on a wall, and the strength of a wall. They're not really all that strong. I certainly wouldn't want to put the rotational force from a car on one. (Reminds me of that scene in SWAT...)
Easier surely to build up the floor level (with some smart tiles)?
Easier surely to build up the floor level (with some smart tiles)?
Thanks for all the help on this. Appreciate it.
On the two poster that’s a nice neat job. Will have to show that to my dad who’s been restoring his S1 FHC E for as long as I can remember!
The single post lifts like that are pretty common - I’ll be using that one mainly for storing my little Caterham but you can safely and comfortably work under a single post. They are very nice for interior work around the dash when the car is low, too, because you can get the door open nicely on them.
I’m going to completely abandon the idea of modifying the base and either sit it on the floor normally OR have a go at sinking it down as per the advice here. Just need to work out if I can do it without causing chaos everywhere. Maybe a wet disc cutter would work well. Unfortunately unlike the 2 post one in the pic here where I suspect the depth of cut is probably fairly small to just clear the chains or pipes this would be about 125mm which is a significant amount and I’m worried about the slab itself.
But thanks - dead helpful to hear opinions and it’s persuaded me to not meddle. Good job guys!
On the two poster that’s a nice neat job. Will have to show that to my dad who’s been restoring his S1 FHC E for as long as I can remember!
The single post lifts like that are pretty common - I’ll be using that one mainly for storing my little Caterham but you can safely and comfortably work under a single post. They are very nice for interior work around the dash when the car is low, too, because you can get the door open nicely on them.
I’m going to completely abandon the idea of modifying the base and either sit it on the floor normally OR have a go at sinking it down as per the advice here. Just need to work out if I can do it without causing chaos everywhere. Maybe a wet disc cutter would work well. Unfortunately unlike the 2 post one in the pic here where I suspect the depth of cut is probably fairly small to just clear the chains or pipes this would be about 125mm which is a significant amount and I’m worried about the slab itself.
But thanks - dead helpful to hear opinions and it’s persuaded me to not meddle. Good job guys!
e600 said:
To be clear I think you need quite a bit of headroom to fit this type of 2 poster due to power/hydraulics? going over the top.
Didn’t see this - just to clarify with the Cascos two post synchro you can route the electric cables between the posts over your ceiling any way you like. You don’t need special clearance.Whilst we are talking about lifts I’ve spent the last few evenings moving the hydraulics on my 4 post lift from being mounted on a box on the back to mounting them inside the frame of the lift. I fabricated the motor carrier box to fit between one of the runways (it’s a double ramp) and I’m in the process of rewiring it now. Silly as it sounds that operation has saved considerable space and looks so much cleaner. Can’t wait to get the others in too. Three phase converter is coming next week so I can run them. (They are screw type lifts and don’t work so well on single according to Cascos)
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