Should I re-wire this lamp?
Discussion
Just bought this Fase lamp from eBay. It still has it's original wiring from (i'm guessing) the 70's with a European two pronged plug on the end. I placed the plug into one of those adaptors you can get with a 3A fuse https://www.lindy.co.uk/power-c8/power-accessories... however there's no earth wire and the wiring goes from the plug to the switch on the base then up through the arm and out into the shade where the two wires connect into a connector block with the actual bulb holder wires coming out the other side.
It works perfectly but the lack of wiring and metal body is making me nervous.
It works perfectly but the lack of wiring and metal body is making me nervous.
Orchid1 said:
That's what I was thinking. I like to think the 3A fuse would do it's job in time as well.
If the live wire shorts to the metal work, a 3A fuse won't save you.It won't even blow.
And if you touch said metal work in the event of live being shorted to it - the fuse still won't blow, but you likely will.
The fuse is there to protect against short circuits in the wiring between Live and Neutral.
If there is no proof of double insulation, it should be rewired with an earth to the metal work.
TonyRPH said:
If the live wire shorts to the metal work, a 3A fuse won't save you.
It won't even blow.
And if you touch said metal work in the event of live being shorted to it - the fuse still won't blow, but you likely will.
The fuse is there to protect against short circuits in the wiring between Live and Neutral.
If there is no proof of double insulation, it should be rewired with an earth to the metal work.
Fair enough, looks like i'll need to find a good electrician then.It won't even blow.
And if you touch said metal work in the event of live being shorted to it - the fuse still won't blow, but you likely will.
The fuse is there to protect against short circuits in the wiring between Live and Neutral.
If there is no proof of double insulation, it should be rewired with an earth to the metal work.
Pheo said:
Is your fuseboard equipped with RCDs? In the interim this would help.
Would still re-wire it though. If nothing else it’s all nearly 50 years old...
No RCD's just regular circuit breakers although could I use it with this in the meantime until it's sorted?Would still re-wire it though. If nothing else it’s all nearly 50 years old...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Masterplug-ARCDKG-RCD-Saf...
Orchid1 said:
No RCD's just regular circuit breakers although could I use it with this in the meantime until it's sorted?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Masterplug-ARCDKG-RCD-Saf...
That'll certainly do as a stopgap.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Masterplug-ARCDKG-RCD-Saf...
I'd still be thinking of rewiring it, though I'd just DIY. Get some of the braided cotton cable - £3 or so per metre off the 'bay, or a damn sight more at your local retro-fashionable home shop...
You'd be quicker and safer just rewiring the thing.
An RCD may save your life if you come in contact with the live unearthed case but it will likely not prevent you from experiencing an electric shock, at whatever the fault current may be.
Once the chassis is earthed and an RCD is present the circuit "should" trip if the case becomes live as there is now a fault path for current to flow.
An RCD may save your life if you come in contact with the live unearthed case but it will likely not prevent you from experiencing an electric shock, at whatever the fault current may be.
Once the chassis is earthed and an RCD is present the circuit "should" trip if the case becomes live as there is now a fault path for current to flow.
Orchid1 said:
Thanks. I'll need to find someone who's done lamps like these before. I'm happy to do it myself but I'm guessing there's no earthing lug inside it so one would have to be created and I don't know how I'd go about that.
You could try cleaning a bit of the metal with wet/dry paper and soldering it on, but if unsure get an electrician.To earth to the metal part, there might be a screw somewhere that you could undo, and put a solder tag under it and tighten back up.
Obviously you'd need to solder the earth wire to the solder tag!
Also, use a shake proof washer to ensure it remains secure, and ensure there is electrical continuity throughout the entire metal part structure of the lamp, right up to the bulb holder (which is likely to be brass).
Obviously you'd need to solder the earth wire to the solder tag!
Also, use a shake proof washer to ensure it remains secure, and ensure there is electrical continuity throughout the entire metal part structure of the lamp, right up to the bulb holder (which is likely to be brass).
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