Discussion
The staircase did fit after a fashion.
But not that well.
...because the joiners chopped out that 40mm here.
Probably a good idea to have the people who make the staircase, fit the staircase. Lot less finger pointing that way.
Yes the big cupboard with the doors to the floor hides a washing machine and a tumble dryer.
But not that well.
...because the joiners chopped out that 40mm here.
Probably a good idea to have the people who make the staircase, fit the staircase. Lot less finger pointing that way.
Yes the big cupboard with the doors to the floor hides a washing machine and a tumble dryer.
loughran said:
The staircase did fit after a fashion.
But not that well.
...because the joiners chopped out that 40mm here.
Probably a good idea to have the people who make the staircase, fit the staircase. Lot less finger pointing that way.
Yes the big cupboard with the doors to the floor hides a washing machine and a tumble dryer.
Old houses and straight walls don’t often meet, chunky quarter round is your friend...But not that well.
...because the joiners chopped out that 40mm here.
Probably a good idea to have the people who make the staircase, fit the staircase. Lot less finger pointing that way.
Yes the big cupboard with the doors to the floor hides a washing machine and a tumble dryer.
I recently removed wall to wall carpets on one of my staircases, had a large gape between the wood and the wall!
marksx said:
I love this. Please could you tell me the wood and paint types used.
Sure, the beaded oak board is American Red Oak and I made the doors and frames from a mixture of European oak and American Tulip Wood (Poplar).It's pretty standard to use Tulip Wood for painted furniture, it's easy to work, reasonably priced and is easy to paint with no discernible grain pattern. The problem is, Tulip Wood twists. Not all the time, just sometimes and try as I might, when there's underfloor heating and/or an Aga, I can't avoid getting one ore two doors in a room that go all propellor shape after 2 or 3 months. A door doesn't have to twist much, perhaps only 2 or 3 mil and it becomes very noticeable especially when lit directly from above. Then the door has to be replaced, the new door fitted, hinged and painted after the event which is a huge pita.
So now I make the doors in quartered oak which is a bit more expensive but generally stays flat and because it's a harder timber than Tulipwood I can get much sharper shut lines as well. Oak does of course have a pronounced grain which shows through any painting..... but that, sir, is a feature not a fault.
The paint is Johnstone's oil based mixed to a Paint and Paper Library colour Salt. Johnstones oil paint has no equal when it comes to painting furniture that is going to be used daily for 5 or 10 or maybe 20 years before it gets a refresh. (IMHO )
Here's the Kitchen next to the utility/ cloakroom I just finished off today (except handles)
Great thread! I wouldn't say I have woodworking as a hobby, but I'm enjoying a project at the moment. It's certainly not fine furniture, but the dark colour should be very forgiving
I'm making a window seat, bookcase, TV stand and some shelves above.
I've got a cheap pocket hole jig. The method is great, but it's not going to last long. Are the Kreg ones worth the money?
Mobile phone photo upload not working at the moment but I'll try and post some pictures another time
I'm making a window seat, bookcase, TV stand and some shelves above.
I've got a cheap pocket hole jig. The method is great, but it's not going to last long. Are the Kreg ones worth the money?
Mobile phone photo upload not working at the moment but I'll try and post some pictures another time
Mattt said:
I’ve got the Kreg and think it’s good, some parts are a bit plasticky but overall solid.
I can't comment on the superiority of the Kreg over other brands (as I've not tried the other brands) but mine is well made and durable. However, don't economise either on the drill bit nor on the genuine Kreg screws; these are what matter more - they have real grab and don't damage the wood in the way that the cheapies do. The joins therefore have better durability Thanks all, I bought the £15 Silverline one to give it a try and it's getting wayward after maybe 30 holes or so. Fine for my current project but I really like the method and can see myself using it in the future, so it's worth spending more on a replacement. Kreg or Trend for the replacement it is!
Still can't get pictures to work from my phone but you're not missing out on much
Still can't get pictures to work from my phone but you're not missing out on much
loughran said:
The paint is Johnstone's oil based mixed to a Paint and Paper Library colour Salt. Johnstones oil paint has no equal when it comes to painting furniture that is going to be used daily for 5 or 10 or maybe 20 years before it gets a refresh. (IMHO )
I'd be very interested to know whether that paint is as smelly and takes as long to dry as normal oil based paint, and how you spray or brush it?singlecoil said:
loughran said:
The paint is Johnstone's oil based mixed to a Paint and Paper Library colour Salt. Johnstones oil paint has no equal when it comes to painting furniture that is going to be used daily for 5 or 10 or maybe 20 years before it gets a refresh. (IMHO )
I'd be very interested to know whether that paint is as smelly and takes as long to dry as normal oil based paint, and how you spray or brush it?loughran said:
I've spent the week putting the finishing touches to some utility/cloakroom furniture. Just need the knobs now.
I really like the coat stand/shoe rack. Is the board solid oak and did you make the beading yourself?I had imagined making just the shoe rack with some spare engineered oak flooring as the top/seat. I really like your top storage and how it looks.
I have not much experience in woodcraft but recently I was inspired by those magical things that was made including epoxy.
Dudes with which I'm often hanging out are saying that I won't be able do anything without a set of large-scaled instruments. That's just drunk mumbling, but it seems that in some way they're really right, so now I'm in confusion.
Now I'm thinking about what should I buy first to craft tables and shelves and first thing that comes to my mind is the saw table but then I stumbled upon something even better -- https://electrogardentools.com/p/best-track-saws-c...
It looks safer and more comfortable... But may I be wrong and it's better to not to show-off?
Dudes with which I'm often hanging out are saying that I won't be able do anything without a set of large-scaled instruments. That's just drunk mumbling, but it seems that in some way they're really right, so now I'm in confusion.
Now I'm thinking about what should I buy first to craft tables and shelves and first thing that comes to my mind is the saw table but then I stumbled upon something even better -- https://electrogardentools.com/p/best-track-saws-c...
It looks safer and more comfortable... But may I be wrong and it's better to not to show-off?
You don't need to rush out and get thousands of pounds worth of tools.
You can make more or less anything you like with hand tools if you have a bit of time. Machines speed things up, but there are few things that are possible with machines that aren't also possible with hand tools.
That said, a track saw is not a bad shout.
You can make more or less anything you like with hand tools if you have a bit of time. Machines speed things up, but there are few things that are possible with machines that aren't also possible with hand tools.
That said, a track saw is not a bad shout.
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