Anyway to remove threaded rod in chemfix.
Discussion
Built a balcony, looks like building control won't pass it, too much movement. I have worked out the reason its moving is the glass clamps are fixed onto a silicone rendered plinth and the render gives a couple of mm which equates to quite a bit right at the top of the glass!
I reckon she will make me remove it but the issue is the threaded rod is chemfixed 250mm deep! Any ideas? I wonder if i could simply unscrew it if i managed to get something to grip it hard enough.
Issue is the holes have to go where they are, anywhere else will lead to the glass not sitting right if i have to change their orientation.
I reckon she will make me remove it but the issue is the threaded rod is chemfixed 250mm deep! Any ideas? I wonder if i could simply unscrew it if i managed to get something to grip it hard enough.
Issue is the holes have to go where they are, anywhere else will lead to the glass not sitting right if i have to change their orientation.
Not sure it will unscrew, but wind two nuts onto the bar, near to the bottom. The nuts should be touching. Then try to "undo" the bottom nut, it will lock against the top nut and then as a result your efforts to unscrew the nut further will result in the threaded bar being turned (if it can be).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pvs_EFR-f4E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pvs_EFR-f4E
jjones said:
Not sure it will unscrew, but wind two nuts onto the bar, near to the bottom. The nuts should be touching. Then try to "undo" the bottom nut, it will lock against the top nut and then as a result your efforts to unscrew the nut further will result in the threaded bar being turned (if it can be).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pvs_EFR-f4E
This! Used to do it all the time when installing steelwork. Well, not all the time but...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pvs_EFR-f4E
k trying to get 250mm of threaded bar out if you've used proper resin.This is what I fitted, the clamps are meant to be x amount away from each other so if I cut them off then they wouldn’t be in acceptable locations, I could move them out but then the glass wouldn’t line up with the edge of the house, which tbh may not be the end of the world.
Awaiting her visit Friday, they do move a lot as the silicone is flexing! I can only think to cut the silicone out, put about ten fixings into the cement board underneath just in case that’s flexing at all, and then hopefully re use the old holes.theres no way you would easily break this but flex is out of acceptable amounts so I accept they won’t pass
Awaiting her visit Friday, they do move a lot as the silicone is flexing! I can only think to cut the silicone out, put about ten fixings into the cement board underneath just in case that’s flexing at all, and then hopefully re use the old holes.theres no way you would easily break this but flex is out of acceptable amounts so I accept they won’t pass
m3jappa said:
Sounds promising! Did you use the method posted above?
This one-->jjones said:
Not sure it will unscrew, but wind two nuts onto the bar, near to the bottom. The nuts should be touching. Then try to "undo" the bottom nut, it will lock against the top nut and then as a result your efforts to unscrew the nut further will result in the threaded bar being turned (if it can be).
Yep!ETA: I always use stainless steel threaded bar, whether this will make any difference if using mild steel, I have no idea.
Edited by Laurel Green on Tuesday 13th August 19:28
Aluminati said:
What about doing away with the brackets and putting a continuous track in ?
Not feeling the brackets, they interrupt the clean lines of the glass.
I have got a feeling that once i remove them and start butchering the plinth underneath i might not have much choice. Not feeling the brackets, they interrupt the clean lines of the glass.
Reckon i will have to cut whatever width necessary on top of the silicone, when you pull the glass you can see it moving!
A stupid oversight, never gave it a thought but tbh its obvious that something flexible will, err flex
The handrail on top is something she mentioned last time, id rather not have one but it may work, fixing to the house may prove tricky though as all there is is a thin piece of ali trim which is for the cladding so fixing on to that may be an issue.
Putting a post in would mean the glass doesnt fit so would need new glass, or at least 2 panels (its an l shape).
Cutting the render out and re fixing would be the preferred method, but that means removing the rods. Never even thought about the concrete beneath fracturing, it is 200 mm thick slab though!
The frustrating thing about this is that we did a load of work, got them round to sign it off and then they said, 'oh that balcony is part of the work, it needs to be done'
we wont even use it, or if we do it wont be much and not for about 3 years or so as i wait for the trees to hide next doors garden. Aesthetically it looks really good, so i am happy to have it, just annoying that i didn't want it, had to pay for it and now may have to pay again!
It looks great imo from downstairs!
Putting a post in would mean the glass doesnt fit so would need new glass, or at least 2 panels (its an l shape).
Cutting the render out and re fixing would be the preferred method, but that means removing the rods. Never even thought about the concrete beneath fracturing, it is 200 mm thick slab though!
The frustrating thing about this is that we did a load of work, got them round to sign it off and then they said, 'oh that balcony is part of the work, it needs to be done'
we wont even use it, or if we do it wont be much and not for about 3 years or so as i wait for the trees to hide next doors garden. Aesthetically it looks really good, so i am happy to have it, just annoying that i didn't want it, had to pay for it and now may have to pay again!
It looks great imo from downstairs!
Cutting the render out and re fixing would be the preferred method, but that means removing the rods.
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Why can't you just leave the plinth & cut holes in it in situ with a multi tool, then butcher out the holes down to concrete level leaving the rods where they are ? Refit the clamps into the new holes & firm against the concrete
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Why can't you just leave the plinth & cut holes in it in situ with a multi tool, then butcher out the holes down to concrete level leaving the rods where they are ? Refit the clamps into the new holes & firm against the concrete
BaldOldMan said:
Cutting the render out and re fixing would be the preferred method, but that means removing the rods.
Why can't you just leave the plinth & cut holes in it in situ with a multi tool, then butcher out the holes down to concrete level leaving the rods where they are ? Refit the clamps into the new holes & firm against the concrete Great idea which i will put forward to her!
Edited by m3jappa on Tuesday 13th August 21:02
21TonyK said:
OP, I'm sure your experience tell you unscrewing is going to fracture the concrete first. Wouldn't even attempt it.
A purely theoretical suggestion (so test it somewhere non-critical first, if you want to try it), but Chemfix is epoxy, and epoxy usually goes soft at relatively low temperature (<200 C)... might be worth trying the locknut method described above, then apply a blowtorch to get the rod really hot, before attempting to unscrew it?Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff