Anyway to remove threaded rod in chemfix.
Discussion
Flibble said:
Does the locknut thing actually work? I tried it on some really jammed bolts and just spun both nuts.
Dunno about threaded rods in Chemfix, but yeah, it works a treat for removing threaded studs from engine cylinder heads, and the like!The trick is to get enough tension in your nuts.
I’ve done similar but with a continuous ally channel/wedge system to hold the glass, bolted to some chunky galvanised steelwork sat on the wall below. It turns through three 90 bends and tucks under a wall at one end so isn’t going anywhere - on a straight run with just one hefty push or somebody falling against it I could imagine the whole lot just falling into the garden with the top course of blockwork still bolted to it.
Adding some approx 15 x 15mm ally channel the length of the glass, and two small custom bracket at the ends attached to the house might give it enough rigidity to stop any movement. Mine was passed like this. Think I have 10 or 12 mm glass, and I found a standard ally channel section that sits snug over the glass just fine with a 1mm glazing packer chopped up and glued in to keep it tight. Cheap, protects the top edge of the glass from impacts, and not as obvious as a proper stainless hand railing. I’ve now removed most of it, leaving approx six inch lengths at both ends and across each glass ‘gap’ just to keep them perfectly aligned with each other.
Yours might need two big solid stainless screws fired into the house for the ends of the ally channel to slot over. Stainless nuts on the screws big enough to wedge into the channel. Bung enough silicone on so that you can’t see it’s just screws you’ve used and I reckon it’d be rock solid and keep BC happy.
Adding some approx 15 x 15mm ally channel the length of the glass, and two small custom bracket at the ends attached to the house might give it enough rigidity to stop any movement. Mine was passed like this. Think I have 10 or 12 mm glass, and I found a standard ally channel section that sits snug over the glass just fine with a 1mm glazing packer chopped up and glued in to keep it tight. Cheap, protects the top edge of the glass from impacts, and not as obvious as a proper stainless hand railing. I’ve now removed most of it, leaving approx six inch lengths at both ends and across each glass ‘gap’ just to keep them perfectly aligned with each other.
Yours might need two big solid stainless screws fired into the house for the ends of the ally channel to slot over. Stainless nuts on the screws big enough to wedge into the channel. Bung enough silicone on so that you can’t see it’s just screws you’ve used and I reckon it’d be rock solid and keep BC happy.
Edited by andy43 on Wednesday 14th August 07:02
Equus said:
21TonyK said:
OP, I'm sure your experience tell you unscrewing is going to fracture the concrete first. Wouldn't even attempt it.
A purely theoretical suggestion (so test it somewhere non-critical first, if you want to try it), but Chemfix is epoxy, and epoxy usually goes soft at relatively low temperature (<200 C)... might be worth trying the locknut method described above, then apply a blowtorch to get the rod really hot, before attempting to unscrew it?I have a fabricator in Benfleet who could sort you something in a week if you need.
It is 21.5 laminated glass.
In its current state i assure you it would take one hell of an impact to actually break any of it! It is just the silicone render beneath which is allowing that couple of mm of movement which combined with the movement it would have anyway is now excessive/more than acceptable. The only way to tell when it or the fixings would break would be to actually break it
I get why they have such strict guidelines, doesn't help me but i get it if it were to fail after being signed off i could say 'you shouldn't have signed it off' and she would be in all sorts of trouble so i do get it.
Personally i think the idea of digging out the render/timber down to concrete level is best, it would be a 100% solid fixing then and would mean the existing clamps can stay where they are without removing the rods. I do like the look of these clamps, from ground level it looks like the glass is just floating.
In its current state i assure you it would take one hell of an impact to actually break any of it! It is just the silicone render beneath which is allowing that couple of mm of movement which combined with the movement it would have anyway is now excessive/more than acceptable. The only way to tell when it or the fixings would break would be to actually break it
I get why they have such strict guidelines, doesn't help me but i get it
if it were to fail after being signed off i could say 'you shouldn't have signed it off' and she would be in all sorts of trouble so i do get it. Personally i think the idea of digging out the render/timber down to concrete level is best, it would be a 100% solid fixing then and would mean the existing clamps can stay where they are without removing the rods. I do like the look of these clamps, from ground level it looks like the glass is just floating.
Cutting out a rectangle of render and lowering the brackets so they sit direct onto the concrete sounds the best idea but have you got enough clearance under the glass so it won't foul the render when everything gets lowered 12mm or so? If you do recess the brackets, silicone around them so they don't form a trap for water and blow off your render.
wolfracesonic said:
Cutting out a rectangle of render and lowering the brackets so they sit direct onto the concrete sounds the best idea but have you got enough clearance under the glass so it won't foul the render when everything gets lowered 12mm or so? If you do recess the brackets, silicone around them so they don't form a trap for water and blow off your render.
No, what i would do is, take out the timber down to concrete level (about 100mm down) , put in a couple of rods, then concrete back up to plinth level, so effectively id be making little padstones for the clamps. It would then be solid with no timber/render beneath.The good news is today the main boss building inspector came to have a look and within about 30 seconds accepted them and passed it.
I think the previous lady was a bit worried about passing something she hadn't seen before which has a fair amount of movement. This guy could see that while there's some movement to actually break either the clamp or the stud or the glass would take way more than you could realistically give.
So thats something good! Just need electrics signed off now but thats another story....
I think the previous lady was a bit worried about passing something she hadn't seen before which has a fair amount of movement. This guy could see that while there's some movement to actually break either the clamp or the stud or the glass would take way more than you could realistically give.
So thats something good! Just need electrics signed off now but thats another story....
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