Spec my self-build!
Discussion
Ok, not exactly spec my self-build... more a request for information and inspiration!
I'm giving some serious consideration a self-build in order to get a house that best suits my needs rather than just pick from what is available, however this opens up a whole world of possibilities in terms of construction, layout, specification etc.
So, my question to the collective wisdom of PH is what features, products or even construction methods have you see that caught your imagination and would be in your fantasy (or reality!) self-build house?
I'm giving some serious consideration a self-build in order to get a house that best suits my needs rather than just pick from what is available, however this opens up a whole world of possibilities in terms of construction, layout, specification etc.
So, my question to the collective wisdom of PH is what features, products or even construction methods have you see that caught your imagination and would be in your fantasy (or reality!) self-build house?
Quick reply, I did a self build 3 years ago.
Really pleased with it, but what everyone notices is quality of doors, windows, architrave etc.
So my advice is do not scrimp on the visual stuff. Plus stick to your budget, we were 10% over which is pretty good, but everyone will offer advice, do this it's only £2000, do this it's worth it for £5000, just stick to your plan unless you are desperate for it.
Our 10% went on better lighting, one additional bathroom and some more structural calculations and ammendments.
Really pleased with it, but what everyone notices is quality of doors, windows, architrave etc.
So my advice is do not scrimp on the visual stuff. Plus stick to your budget, we were 10% over which is pretty good, but everyone will offer advice, do this it's only £2000, do this it's worth it for £5000, just stick to your plan unless you are desperate for it.
Our 10% went on better lighting, one additional bathroom and some more structural calculations and ammendments.
I would make it the most energy efficient you can, both for the good of the planet and your wallet. Look into air source and ground source heat pumps for heating, your own borehole for water, solar panels etc. if you combined all of those you would hardly have any running costs relative to a normal house.
You of course need to have an excellent garage with enough height for a lift and a floor that can take it.
I agree on the quality of the finishing items. I forked out for a lovely floor and people notice it.
Also don't forget you can have the VAT back on self build materials.
You of course need to have an excellent garage with enough height for a lift and a floor that can take it.
I agree on the quality of the finishing items. I forked out for a lovely floor and people notice it.
Also don't forget you can have the VAT back on self build materials.
Bob-iylho said:
Quick reply, I did a self build 3 years ago.
Really pleased with it, but what everyone notices is quality of doors, windows, architrave etc.
So my advice is do not scrimp on the visual stuff. Plus stick to your budget, we were 10% over which is pretty good, but everyone will offer advice, do this it's only £2000, do this it's worth it for £5000, just stick to your plan unless you are desperate for it.
Our 10% went on better lighting, one additional bathroom and some more structural calculations and ammendments.
Door and windows is one of the first things I noticed when looking at places with a more critical eye. Having a well sized high quality front door leading into a nice entrance hall makes a hell of a difference to how a place feels when you enter a house so this is already on my mental shopping list. I want to try to put together a realistic spec/budget so the compromises can be worked out up front rather than during the process - hence this thread! Really pleased with it, but what everyone notices is quality of doors, windows, architrave etc.
So my advice is do not scrimp on the visual stuff. Plus stick to your budget, we were 10% over which is pretty good, but everyone will offer advice, do this it's only £2000, do this it's worth it for £5000, just stick to your plan unless you are desperate for it.
Our 10% went on better lighting, one additional bathroom and some more structural calculations and ammendments.
Chainsaw Rebuild said:
I would make it the most energy efficient you can, both for the good of the planet and your wallet. Look into air source and ground source heat pumps for heating, your own borehole for water, solar panels etc. if you combined all of those you would hardly have any running costs relative to a normal house.
You of course need to have an excellent garage with enough height for a lift and a floor that can take it.
I agree on the quality of the finishing items. I forked out for a lovely floor and people notice it.
Also don't forget you can have the VAT back on self build materials.
I'm definitely inclined towards an efficient structure, although perhaps not quite to passivhaus levels. From what I've read so far you can improve significantly over a "standard" new build quite economically, although as always the final gains cost the most.You of course need to have an excellent garage with enough height for a lift and a floor that can take it.
I agree on the quality of the finishing items. I forked out for a lovely floor and people notice it.
Also don't forget you can have the VAT back on self build materials.
I'll consider all heat / energy sources. As I understand it there are still incentives available so this can offset some of the costs.
Sheepshanks said:
Have you got a plot lined up?
Not yet, although I'm considering Graven Hill in Bicester so availability shouldn't be an issue and costs are relatively transparent. If I can put together a decent budget for the build side over the next few months I should be able to put together a realistic overall cost.Thermal mass.
Lots and lots of thermal mass (in the right place, of course).
If you're thinking about Graven Hill, start by reading the Design Code - you may discover that you don't have quite the design freedom you expect, depending on the location within the development.
Lots and lots of thermal mass (in the right place, of course).
If you're thinking about Graven Hill, start by reading the Design Code - you may discover that you don't have quite the design freedom you expect, depending on the location within the development.
Equus said:
Thermal mass.
Lots and lots of thermal mass (in the right place, of course).
If you're thinking about Graven Hill, start by reading the Design Code - you may discover that you don't have quite the design freedom you expect, depending on the location within the development.
Presumably by thermal mass in the right place you are referring to the ground slab, but with high insulation & low thermal mass structures for walls to limit heat transfer between inside and out, managed with a MHVR?Lots and lots of thermal mass (in the right place, of course).
If you're thinking about Graven Hill, start by reading the Design Code - you may discover that you don't have quite the design freedom you expect, depending on the location within the development.
In terms of Gravel hill, I'm aware that there are different areas that can be developed in different ways. I'm inclined to avoid those with a material palette, but nothing is set in stone.
egomeister said:
Presumably by thermal mass in the right place you are referring to the ground slab, but with high insulation & low thermal mass structures for walls
Not necessarily, no: it can take a lot more than a ground floor slab to prevent overheating through solar gain, these days.That's the downside of very highly insulated but thermally lightweight structures like SIP and timber frame.Personally, I would use a highly insulated SIP or TF structure with great care - and I'm saying that as ex-Design & Tech Director of a company that manufactured and sold them, so I'm not anti-TF... I just recognise that their lack of thermal mass can be a serious problem that you've got to design around with care, particularly if you want a lot of glazing.
Don't conflate high insulation with low thermal mass. The two are not inextricably linked.
I'd also advocate something energy efficient and with good insulation (we had a passivhaus built and moved in 1 year ago). But my suggestion for you to consider would be to include a basement level. Not at all common in the UK, I know.
But you can put a huge amount of storage, all your heating/technical equipment down there, laundry room too (built in laundry chutes are also great!) and leave all the above ground floor plan for living in, without worrying where to put massive wardrobes and without having to crawl into an attic.
But you can put a huge amount of storage, all your heating/technical equipment down there, laundry room too (built in laundry chutes are also great!) and leave all the above ground floor plan for living in, without worrying where to put massive wardrobes and without having to crawl into an attic.
Whitean3 said:
I'd also advocate something energy efficient and with good insulation (we had a passivhaus built and moved in 1 year ago). But my suggestion for you to consider would be to include a basement level. Not at all common in the UK, I know.
But you can put a huge amount of storage, all your heating/technical equipment down there, laundry room too (built in laundry chutes are also great!) and leave all the above ground floor plan for living in, without worrying where to put massive wardrobes and without having to crawl into an attic.
I like this idea! you could have a cinema room/ loads of storge/spare room it also means you could have a "wine cellar" if your so inclined.But you can put a huge amount of storage, all your heating/technical equipment down there, laundry room too (built in laundry chutes are also great!) and leave all the above ground floor plan for living in, without worrying where to put massive wardrobes and without having to crawl into an attic.
Another thing to consider is the technology you want in it and do you need network cable run in the walls/out to potential cctv points etc. Also if you are having a gate then run power out to it so you have the option of an electric gate.
s3dave said:
...strangely not so good on sound insulation.
No, this is another area where SIP/TF construction is frankly not good.TF is better if you use mineral wool instead of PIR insulation (but of course mineral wool is then only half as good at thermal insulation as PIR, and you don't have that option with SIP because the foam is serving a structural function of stabilising the the skins against buckling).
But with some sound frequencies, there is no substitute for good old-fashioned mass.
Equus said:
egomeister said:
Presumably by thermal mass in the right place you are referring to the ground slab, but with high insulation & low thermal mass structures for walls
Not necessarily, no: it can take a lot more than a ground floor slab to prevent overheating through solar gain, these days.That's the downside of very highly insulated but thermally lightweight structures like SIP and timber frame.Personally, I would use a highly insulated SIP or TF structure with great care - and I'm saying that as ex-Design & Tech Director of a company that manufactured and sold them, so I'm not anti-TF... I just recognise that their lack of thermal mass can be a serious problem that you've got to design around with care, particularly if you want a lot of glazing.
Don't conflate high insulation with low thermal mass. The two are not inextricably linked.
Equus said:
s3dave said:
...strangely not so good on sound insulation.
No, this is another area where SIP/TF construction is frankly not good.TF is better if you use mineral wool instead of PIR insulation (but of course mineral wool is then only half as good at thermal insulation as PIR, and you don't have that option with SIP because the foam is serving a structural function of stabilising the the skins against buckling).
But with some sound frequencies, there is no substitute for good old-fashioned mass.
I assume this is why on high efficiency builds you often see a move towards the use of things like air source heat pumps, as they provides the ability to manage temperature both ways?
I hadn't considered the effect of insulation in terms of sound deadening. I've looked briefly at a couple of kit systems, one using foam and one using mineral wool although I did spot that they used a different grade of mineral wool on internal walls that is better suited to sound deadening.
Whitean3 said:
I'd also advocate something energy efficient and with good insulation (we had a passivhaus built and moved in 1 year ago). But my suggestion for you to consider would be to include a basement level. Not at all common in the UK, I know.
But you can put a huge amount of storage, all your heating/technical equipment down there, laundry room too (built in laundry chutes are also great!) and leave all the above ground floor plan for living in, without worrying where to put massive wardrobes and without having to crawl into an attic.
Having spent some time on the continent where apartments with communal heating systems and basements are much more common I certainly appreciate this, but I think the cost would be well beyond me at this time! Nice idea with the laundry chutes too - this is exactly the kind of thing that could be planned into a build, but impossible to incorporate later!But you can put a huge amount of storage, all your heating/technical equipment down there, laundry room too (built in laundry chutes are also great!) and leave all the above ground floor plan for living in, without worrying where to put massive wardrobes and without having to crawl into an attic.
Whitean3 said:
I'd also advocate something energy efficient and with good insulation (we had a passivhaus built and moved in 1 year ago). But my suggestion for you to consider would be to include a basement level. Not at all common in the UK, I know.
But you can put a huge amount of storage, all your heating/technical equipment down there, laundry room too (built in laundry chutes are also great!) and leave all the above ground floor plan for living in, without worrying where to put massive wardrobes and without having to crawl into an attic.
My parents built a house with a basement, starting in the 1960s, after visiting Canada and seeing the benefit of them there. They built the house in a gully, which meant one end was underground, with the other at ground level, so the entrance to the garage above the underground end, whilst we had ground level access in and out at the other, it also limited the amount that had to be dug out. The dug out earth was placed next to the house and leveled to give the lawn once the building was finished. The central heating boiler was in the basement, which helped keep it warm in winter.But you can put a huge amount of storage, all your heating/technical equipment down there, laundry room too (built in laundry chutes are also great!) and leave all the above ground floor plan for living in, without worrying where to put massive wardrobes and without having to crawl into an attic.
In the double garage there was a pit which was really just a hole in the roof of the basement. It did mean you could go from underneath the car to the workshop (also in the basement) without going outside. Dad's interests when he started designing the place were gliding and sailing, so the basement was designed to accommodate a 15 metre glider wing in one piece (helpful for alignment when doing repairs), and the pit was designed around lowering a 14ft sailing dinghy through it for storage below the other side without the pit.
Constuction of the house was breeze block below ground level, with reclaimed brick above. Stone buttresses were used on the corners. The roof of the basement was woodwool slabs with columns of reinforced concrete cast in open ended 5 gal oil drums which were cut off afterwards. In addition to the reclaimed bricks, a lot of the wood was salvaged from Victorian Army barracks which were being demolished at the time.
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