Garage Floor Ideas
Discussion
What sort of prep do you need for the Plasfloor tiles?
I've got a reasonable sized double - 6.7 x 6.7 which is only about 6 months old so has a good condition concrete floor. I've found every flooring beyond just painting it to be eye wateringly expensive but the Plasfloor stuff comes in very reasonably priced. Do you need to paint the floor etc first or do the tiles go down easily on the existing concrete floor?
I've got a reasonable sized double - 6.7 x 6.7 which is only about 6 months old so has a good condition concrete floor. I've found every flooring beyond just painting it to be eye wateringly expensive but the Plasfloor stuff comes in very reasonably priced. Do you need to paint the floor etc first or do the tiles go down easily on the existing concrete floor?
Edited by Fox- on Friday 12th March 17:46
roadie said:
Escort3500 said:
roadie said:
Good thread this. I am in the process of painting the concrete block walls in my garage white. Two down, one to go! I have been using a first coat of watered down cheap emulsion followed by 'No Nonsense' masonry paint from Screwfix. This approach seems to be working well and cost effectively.
As the interior of the garage is starting to look massively better I have been considering what to do with the floor. It is nearly 50 year old unsealed concrete so my current thoughts are to put some effort into cleaning it before using floor paint. If that fails or lifts I may look into some of the tiles mentioned.
I tried to do this and failed miserably! My concrete floor is also about 50 years old and unsealed, but despite intensive cleaning and careful application of floor paint (Leyland) it didn’t adhere very well, and within months looked really shabby. I suspect contaminants in the floor caused this. I’m not going to waste time reapplying more now, I’ll be using floor tiles As the interior of the garage is starting to look massively better I have been considering what to do with the floor. It is nearly 50 year old unsealed concrete so my current thoughts are to put some effort into cleaning it before using floor paint. If that fails or lifts I may look into some of the tiles mentioned.
Fox- said:
What sort of prep do you need for the Plasfloor tiles?
I've got a reasonable sized double - 6.7 x 6.7 which is only about 6 months old so has a good condition concrete floor. I've found every flooring beyond just painting it to be eye wateringly expensive but the Plasfloor stuff comes in very reasonably priced. Do you need to paint the floor etc first or do the tiles go down easily on the existing concrete floor?
No prep. Just hoover up beforehand. And if you want to paint walls best for it before you lay floor. Also worth planning a little so that you get even cuts all around but seeing as it moves so easily you can just start laying a row and figure it out as you go along. I've got a reasonable sized double - 6.7 x 6.7 which is only about 6 months old so has a good condition concrete floor. I've found every flooring beyond just painting it to be eye wateringly expensive but the Plasfloor stuff comes in very reasonably priced. Do you need to paint the floor etc first or do the tiles go down easily on the existing concrete floor?
Edited by Fox- on Friday 12th March 17:46
Baldchap said:
csd19 said:
Baldchap said:
Epoxy resin (professional application) is incredibly hard wearing and looks good. Available in loads of colours.
Excuse the mess I was still setting up.
Your garage looks ace, can you share any more details on it (dimensions, supplier etc)? I take it that's the short lift from Automotech, I've been looking at those with interest recently as I'm planning on taking down an existing wooden workshop to redo as a larger building but have to be mindful of height. Wish I had a barn to convert!Excuse the mess I was still setting up.
Any issues with condensation on the inside walls or is it insulated in some way?
It is indeed the short Automotech one. I can get a car up to about chest height before I need to start being careful. It certainly beats using a jack... I installed it myself and barring a few bits where the instructions simply missed out what bits were, it was pretty straightforward. Once the towers are unpacked and stood up they're actually pretty easy to manipulate, but you'll need a hand getting them to that point. An SDS drill is your friend when putting in the ground fixings.
If you're having concrete poured, make sure it's to spec for the lift. Automotech ask for double what Bendpak and the other biggies do for some reason, and mine is not actually up to their spec (if I stop posting then I've been crushed)...
. I'm confident it's fine, but if I was doing it again, I'd have done it slightly thicker. 
I'd be looking to get a new base poured as I'm wanting to make the garage level with the driveway, it currently sits about 6" higher with a slope over the last couple of feet up to the existing garage floor so there'll be a fair bit of digging out required. An 8*5 garage will be a bit larger than I was hoping to go for but I'll rethink my plans - either that or move house!
The idea of an inside space to work with a lift is just heaven, getting the cars up on trolley jacks and axle stands seems to take more time than it really should when compared to using a 2-poster to make things easy.
snotrag said:
AW10 said:
Can the plasfloor tiles withstand the weight of a loaded 4 post lift? They quote they withstand 5 tons but don't give an area.
There's no way you'd sit the lift, even a four poster, ON the tiles!? Your lift would go into the base then cut the tiles round it, surely.
random_username said:
How big are the raised knobbles on the plasfloor tiles - are they large enough that a jack wouldn't roll on them, or a vehicle on wheel dollies?
A jack or dollies will be absolutely fine, it's more of a texture than big lumps. I'm willing to bet it'll be a damn site easier (and quieter!) dragging my big trolley jack round on these, than it is on the smooth concrete floor I have now. As above, I'd just fill in the sample request, I got mine sent in two days and definitely confirmed they were what I want!
snotrag said:
There's no way you'd sit the lift, even a four poster, ON the tiles!?
Your lift would go into the base then cut the tiles round it, surely.
It would be nice to be able to move the lift around (it has castors for just that purpose) rather than having it fixed in one place. I appreciate I could lift and remove the tiles between the "parking" spots.Your lift would go into the base then cut the tiles round it, surely.
AW10 said:
snotrag said:
There's no way you'd sit the lift, even a four poster, ON the tiles!?
Your lift would go into the base then cut the tiles round it, surely.
It would be nice to be able to move the lift around (it has castors for just that purpose) rather than having it fixed in one place. I appreciate I could lift and remove the tiles between the "parking" spots.Your lift would go into the base then cut the tiles round it, surely.
snotrag said:
Yep, I'm very interested too to see what lift can be wheeled around! That could be perfect for a small garage!
Snot, I’m in the evaluation phase for a new lift...https://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-4...
There’s also an American brand I saw on Vice Grip Garage
https://youtu.be/XgX8gSjy-KA
Maxjax is a portable two post lift, not sure its available in the UK, used to be I think
https://www.maxjax.com/?SID=kaggf0j7cdg0i85325v0ej...
To be clear, it does need bolting down, but when not in use it can be moved out of the way and stored.
https://www.maxjax.com/?SID=kaggf0j7cdg0i85325v0ej...
To be clear, it does need bolting down, but when not in use it can be moved out of the way and stored.
Escort3500 said:
roadie said:
Escort3500 said:
roadie said:
Good thread this. I am in the process of painting the concrete block walls in my garage white. Two down, one to go! I have been using a first coat of watered down cheap emulsion followed by 'No Nonsense' masonry paint from Screwfix. This approach seems to be working well and cost effectively.
As the interior of the garage is starting to look massively better I have been considering what to do with the floor. It is nearly 50 year old unsealed concrete so my current thoughts are to put some effort into cleaning it before using floor paint. If that fails or lifts I may look into some of the tiles mentioned.
I tried to do this and failed miserably! My concrete floor is also about 50 years old and unsealed, but despite intensive cleaning and careful application of floor paint (Leyland) it didn’t adhere very well, and within months looked really shabby. I suspect contaminants in the floor caused this. I’m not going to waste time reapplying more now, I’ll be using floor tiles As the interior of the garage is starting to look massively better I have been considering what to do with the floor. It is nearly 50 year old unsealed concrete so my current thoughts are to put some effort into cleaning it before using floor paint. If that fails or lifts I may look into some of the tiles mentioned.
A good clean and degrease using Johnstones Trade Cleaner & Degreaser, rinse with clean water and allow to dry. Once dry apply a diluted version of the floor paint- dilute with white spirit 10%. Then follow with two further coats.
I think I'll try this, albeit with some easier to obtain degreaser.
roadie said:
Escort3500 said:
roadie said:
Escort3500 said:
roadie said:
Good thread this. I am in the process of painting the concrete block walls in my garage white. Two down, one to go! I have been using a first coat of watered down cheap emulsion followed by 'No Nonsense' masonry paint from Screwfix. This approach seems to be working well and cost effectively.
As the interior of the garage is starting to look massively better I have been considering what to do with the floor. It is nearly 50 year old unsealed concrete so my current thoughts are to put some effort into cleaning it before using floor paint. If that fails or lifts I may look into some of the tiles mentioned.
I tried to do this and failed miserably! My concrete floor is also about 50 years old and unsealed, but despite intensive cleaning and careful application of floor paint (Leyland) it didn’t adhere very well, and within months looked really shabby. I suspect contaminants in the floor caused this. I’m not going to waste time reapplying more now, I’ll be using floor tiles As the interior of the garage is starting to look massively better I have been considering what to do with the floor. It is nearly 50 year old unsealed concrete so my current thoughts are to put some effort into cleaning it before using floor paint. If that fails or lifts I may look into some of the tiles mentioned.
A good clean and degrease using Johnstones Trade Cleaner & Degreaser, rinse with clean water and allow to dry. Once dry apply a diluted version of the floor paint- dilute with white spirit 10%. Then follow with two further coats.
I think I'll try this, albeit with some easier to obtain degreaser.
Escort3500 said:
Give it a go and let us know how you get on
After many weekends of shifting stuff about, cleaning and painting here is the result of my endeavors.
The walls have two coats of paint on (one watered down cheap emulsion and one neat masonry paint) worked in with a long pile roller. For the floor I followed the instructions from the manufacturer in my post above.
The floor paint is plastic in nature and I think is bonded well enough to the floor for my purposes.
I am really happy with the result!
Just bringing this thread back again after a few months to ask how you are finding the Plasfloor tiles.
only seem to have read good things about Plasfloor on here, but saw a few comments on other sites about them bulging / bubbling up.
I've read in the PF. fitting instructions they advise to leave 5 to 7mm at the edges for expansion - also my garage doesn't have any windows or skylights (although the front / door is facing the sun and gets quite warm)
Samples in the post.
only seem to have read good things about Plasfloor on here, but saw a few comments on other sites about them bulging / bubbling up.
I've read in the PF. fitting instructions they advise to leave 5 to 7mm at the edges for expansion - also my garage doesn't have any windows or skylights (although the front / door is facing the sun and gets quite warm)
Samples in the post.
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