2022 Lawn Thread
Discussion
Sometimes, with the dogs using the lawn, I do wonder why I even bother! We got quite good at weeing on the compost heap, but then winter came round and old habits came back. Heyho.
Also doesn't help when you master groundsman fails to check the cut height before a quick after work trim...
While thing could do with a feed too, me being stingy and then busy, but I've just ordered two 20kg bags of feed from Lawnsmiths. One 'Spring and Summer for Sandy Lawns' and one 'Spring and Summer Natur' , plus 10kg Autumn and 10kg Staygreen Seed for later.
Also doesn't help when you master groundsman fails to check the cut height before a quick after work trim...
While thing could do with a feed too, me being stingy and then busy, but I've just ordered two 20kg bags of feed from Lawnsmiths. One 'Spring and Summer for Sandy Lawns' and one 'Spring and Summer Natur' , plus 10kg Autumn and 10kg Staygreen Seed for later.
Sometimes, with the dogs using the lawn, I do wonder why I even bother! We got quite good at weeing on the compost heap, but then winter came round and old habits came back. Heyho.
Also doesn't help when you master groundsman fails to check the cut height before a quick after word trim... ....still, got a cut in before the rain. Still aim for two cuts a week even if doesn't always happen!
While thing could do with a feed too, me being stingy and then busy, but I've just ordered two 20kg bags of feed from Lawnsmiths. One 'Spring and Summer for Sandy Lawns' and one 'Spring and Summer Natur' , plus 10kg Autumn and 10kg Staygreen Seed for later.
Also doesn't help when you master groundsman fails to check the cut height before a quick after word trim... ....still, got a cut in before the rain. Still aim for two cuts a week even if doesn't always happen!
While thing could do with a feed too, me being stingy and then busy, but I've just ordered two 20kg bags of feed from Lawnsmiths. One 'Spring and Summer for Sandy Lawns' and one 'Spring and Summer Natur' , plus 10kg Autumn and 10kg Staygreen Seed for later.
Abbott said:
Thanks for the feedback on scarifiers
New subject
Anyone got advice on how to reduce clover
Just return to my lawn after 3 weeks away and clover is knee high. It that height it is a nightmare to cut down so need a strategy to reduce or eliminate it
Any lawn specific weed killer would work. Either sprayed selectively or broadspread.New subject
Anyone got advice on how to reduce clover
Just return to my lawn after 3 weeks away and clover is knee high. It that height it is a nightmare to cut down so need a strategy to reduce or eliminate it
Clover is a very good nitrogen fixer and pollinator. But larger types can be difficult to manage in a lawn. There are micro varieties you can buy seeds for.
Abbott said:
Thanks for the feedback on scarifiers
New subject
Anyone got advice on how to reduce clover
Just return to my lawn after 3 weeks away and clover is knee high. It that height it is a nightmare to cut down so need a strategy to reduce or eliminate it
Clover does respond to a spot treatment with Resolva (make sure to buy the version designed for lawns), although it will need multiple sprayings over a couple of weeks. If you’ve got large areas I believe you can buy it as a concentrate, so you could make up a decent amount to put in a backpack sprayer or similar, rather than using a squirty bottle.New subject
Anyone got advice on how to reduce clover
Just return to my lawn after 3 weeks away and clover is knee high. It that height it is a nightmare to cut down so need a strategy to reduce or eliminate it
Beyond that, I’ve always wondered whether clover is an indicator of low nitrogen in your soil. Clover is one of those unusual plants with the ability to fix nitrogen from the air, although presumably this is less efficient than extracting it from nitrates in the ground otherwise all plants would do it. So if clover is growing in your lawn, it must be because its nitrogen-fixing trick is giving it a competitive advantage, due to low soil nitrate acting as a limiting factor on other plants; if soil nitrates were plentiful then “normal” plants (including the grass) would be getting that nitrogen more efficiently and hence they would be the ones with the advantage.
The above is purely speculation on my part, although I think it does make a reasonable hypothesis. If I could be arsed I’d do some research to see if I’m right! But I do have a tiny bit of anecdotal evidence: this winter just gone I continued feeding the lawn with an autumn feed right through the winter, and this spring I notice I’ve got precisely zero clover (whereas I normally have little bits here and there). So perhaps the continued feeding through the winter has maintained a better level of nitrogen, so the clover hasn’t got a foothold.
So perhaps step up your lawn feeding regime a bit…?
Edited by Dr Mike Oxgreen on Friday 20th May 21:35
Abbott said:
Hell’s bells!That’s clover?! I’ve never seen it like that!
Well, a squirty bottle of Resolva is out of the question. If you have a backpack sprayer, or one of those smaller hand-pumped pressure sprayers, then you could try mixing up a larger quantity of Resolva from concentrate and treat the whole area. But judging from your picture it’ll need many applications over several weeks to get that under control.
Oh, and just to reiterate: make sure to buy the lawn version, otherwise it’ll kill your whole lawn!
Abbott said:
That's not really a problem, it's just a mess. Put a rotary over the whole lot and rake up the cuttings. Leave it a week and cut again so you see what you've got. Then, as said get some Weedol for lawns (or Resolva for lawns) on it all and start to battle the weeds. Then feed it and keep it cut. Edited by RichB on Saturday 21st May 09:50
Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
Clover does respond to a spot treatment with Resolva (make sure to buy the version designed for lawns), although it will need multiple sprayings over a couple of weeks. If you’ve got large areas I believe you can buy it as a concentrate, so you could make up a decent amount to put in a backpack sprayer or similar, rather than using a squirty bottle.
Beyond that, I’ve always wondered whether clover is an indicator of low nitrogen in your soil. Clover is one of those unusual plants with the ability to fix nitrogen from the air, although presumably this is less efficient than extracting it from nitrates in the ground otherwise all plants would do it. So if clover is growing in your lawn, it must be because its nitrogen-fixing trick is giving it a competitive advantage, due to low soil nitrate acting as a limiting factor on other plants; if soil nitrates were plentiful then “normal” plants (including the grass) would be getting that nitrogen more efficiently and hence they would be the ones with the advantage.
The above is purely speculation on my part, although I think it does make a reasonable hypothesis. If I could be arsed I’d do some research to see if I’m right! But I do have a tiny bit of anecdotal evidence: this winter just gone I continued feeding the lawn with an autumn feed right through the winter, and this spring I notice I’ve got precisely zero clover (whereas I normally have little bits here and there). So perhaps the continued feeding through the winter has maintained a better level of nitrogen, so the clover hasn’t got a foothold.
So perhaps step up your lawn feeding regime a bit…?
Its an interesting idea.Beyond that, I’ve always wondered whether clover is an indicator of low nitrogen in your soil. Clover is one of those unusual plants with the ability to fix nitrogen from the air, although presumably this is less efficient than extracting it from nitrates in the ground otherwise all plants would do it. So if clover is growing in your lawn, it must be because its nitrogen-fixing trick is giving it a competitive advantage, due to low soil nitrate acting as a limiting factor on other plants; if soil nitrates were plentiful then “normal” plants (including the grass) would be getting that nitrogen more efficiently and hence they would be the ones with the advantage.
The above is purely speculation on my part, although I think it does make a reasonable hypothesis. If I could be arsed I’d do some research to see if I’m right! But I do have a tiny bit of anecdotal evidence: this winter just gone I continued feeding the lawn with an autumn feed right through the winter, and this spring I notice I’ve got precisely zero clover (whereas I normally have little bits here and there). So perhaps the continued feeding through the winter has maintained a better level of nitrogen, so the clover hasn’t got a foothold.
So perhaps step up your lawn feeding regime a bit…?
We have a bit coming in, but its fairly small leaf, and it doesn't really bother me so I might leave it.
I understand because of its nitrogen fixing ability, it becomes a natural fertiliser, presumable especially if you mulch it.
Hence people intentionally sow the small leave varieties you talk of.
As you say, I also understand it responds well to selective lawn weedkiller, which you can buy easily in concentrate and just spray on.
So at any point if I change my mind I believe it can get rid of it quickly and easily.
Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
The above is purely speculation on my part, although I think it does make a reasonable hypothesis. If I could be arsed I’d do some research to see if I’m right!
You are quite right. Clover to grass ratio in a lawn will vary depending on nitrogen availability for the grass to maintain a competitive advantage.Same as dandelions, which can be an indication of compaction or low calcium issues giving them the advantage over grass.
hebangsthedrums said:
Is next week too late to scarify and get the lawn decent by mid july? Finally decided to stop mucking around and get the screwfix one that's at a tenner off, but can't do it until next weekend...
It’s no too late if you can keep the grass damp, not wet, April used to be ideal as it was warmer and damper, now April seems to be colder and dryer. You will get a good lawn for July but if a hot spell comes along you will need a good water regime, like a sprinkler on a timer for 5 bursts of 2 minutes each day normally and about 8 bursts if it’s hot. Flooding the place will just wash the seed away which is when a sprinkler will do more harm than good.jagnet said:
You are quite right. Clover to grass ratio in a lawn will vary depending on nitrogen availability for the grass to maintain a competitive advantage.
Same as dandelions, which can be an indication of compaction or low calcium issues giving them the advantage over grass.
Nice. Same as dandelions, which can be an indication of compaction or low calcium issues giving them the advantage over grass.
And fits with ours coming back this spring when I've been stingy with the fertiliser.
Also why a lot public football pitches and high traffic parks are riddled with dandelions!
Good to see you on the thread also.
jagnet said:
still lurking. Lawn voyeurism at its best
Good work! Always value your input. Do you have any thought on improving soil condition long terms, and or use of organic matter, such as manure or bulk-bought peat free compost, as a method of reducing dependence on applying nitrogen fertiliser?
It doesn't seem to be something many talk about.
We have thin soil on a sandstone base, and enjoy a nice lawn and don't mind some cost and fertiliser application, but also don't really want to be doing £50 of Lawnsmiths best every three-six months forever.
Thanks
I can recommend the no.4 fine grade compost from Field Compost. It's perfect for topdressing, and my wife uses it for potting etc as well. I blend it with a decent topsoil and make it dry and spreadable, with a very high organic matter content. It helps with moisture retention, soil structure, and feeding, plus covering an overseed as I do it at the same time. The lawn seems to like it.
I don't always collect the clippings, as mulching them into the lawn can contribute a good percentage towards the nitrogen requirement. Best to cut regularly so what you do leave in the lawn is small and will break down easily. When I do collect the clippings they are used to mulch the borders or the allotment.
If your soil is particularly thin and/or sandy it will benefit greatly from the addition of organic matter.
Edit: that no.4 compost has gone up 20% since this time last year, which I presume is largely transport costs. £202 for 1500L, which should go a long way depending on the size of your lawn, of course.
I don't always collect the clippings, as mulching them into the lawn can contribute a good percentage towards the nitrogen requirement. Best to cut regularly so what you do leave in the lawn is small and will break down easily. When I do collect the clippings they are used to mulch the borders or the allotment.
If your soil is particularly thin and/or sandy it will benefit greatly from the addition of organic matter.
Edit: that no.4 compost has gone up 20% since this time last year, which I presume is largely transport costs. £202 for 1500L, which should go a long way depending on the size of your lawn, of course.
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