New Build, Garden?
Discussion
I guarantee it will be loaded with building debris once you get a few inches down.
For a proper job you'll have to turn and remove the lot before laying turf on it.
Personally I'd go the whole hog with the garden in one pop. There is only one thing worse than the bare garden of a new build, and that is a garden that consists of turf and only turf.
Decking, plants, beds, features, do it all in one pop, stock it and forget about it/use it/enjoy it rather than staring at a bland and boring expanse of turf.
For a proper job you'll have to turn and remove the lot before laying turf on it.
Personally I'd go the whole hog with the garden in one pop. There is only one thing worse than the bare garden of a new build, and that is a garden that consists of turf and only turf.
Decking, plants, beds, features, do it all in one pop, stock it and forget about it/use it/enjoy it rather than staring at a bland and boring expanse of turf.
Since it's new build, who is your building control/warranty provider?
If it's the NHBC, you may wish to be aware of the following guidance from the NHBC 'Standards' Document:
"[b]9.2 - S6 Garden areas shall be
adequately prepared for cultivation[/b]
Construction rubbish and debris should
be removed from garden and other areas
around the home.
The ground around the home can be
compacted by machinery and storage of
materials during construction as well as
when topsoil is being replaced and this
can affect the structure of the soil and
its draining capability. Where this occurs
within 3m of the home appropriate action
should be taken to suitably restore the
drainage characteristics of the soil.
Any ground disturbed during construction
should be re-graded to conform to the
general shape of the adjacent ground.
Subsoil should not be placed over topsoil
and any topsoil disturbed should be
reinstated. Garden areas should be provided
with topsoil to a thickness of not less than
100mm. The topsoil should not contain
contaminants which are likely to present a
hazard to users of the garden area."
If it's the NHBC, you may wish to be aware of the following guidance from the NHBC 'Standards' Document:
"[b]9.2 - S6 Garden areas shall be
adequately prepared for cultivation[/b]
Construction rubbish and debris should
be removed from garden and other areas
around the home.
The ground around the home can be
compacted by machinery and storage of
materials during construction as well as
when topsoil is being replaced and this
can affect the structure of the soil and
its draining capability. Where this occurs
within 3m of the home appropriate action
should be taken to suitably restore the
drainage characteristics of the soil.
Any ground disturbed during construction
should be re-graded to conform to the
general shape of the adjacent ground.
Subsoil should not be placed over topsoil
and any topsoil disturbed should be
reinstated. Garden areas should be provided
with topsoil to a thickness of not less than
100mm. The topsoil should not contain
contaminants which are likely to present a
hazard to users of the garden area."
Dave_ST220 said:
Dillema, new build, quoted £825 for turf, will they bury all their s
t knowing full well the turf will last long enough? Am i better getting someone in to turf it once build complete?
t knowing full well the turf will last long enough? Am i better getting someone in to turf it once build complete?Do not let the buggers turf it
You know. Just my opinion having turned up to a new build with turf done.
Munter said:
Dave_ST220 said:
Dillema, new build, quoted £825 for turf, will they bury all their st knowing full well the turf will last long enough? Am i better getting someone in to turf it once build complete?
t knowing full well the turf will last long enough? Am i better getting someone in to turf it once build complete?Do not let the buggers turf it
You know. Just my opinion having turned up to a new build with turf done.
We turfed our plot to keep the dust down whilst the Mrs designed the garden. What was under it was s
tE!If you have ANY imminent plans to landscape your garden do not waste £825 on turf you'll probably dig up and skip anyway...
Sam_68 said:
Since it's new build, who is your building control/warranty provider?
If it's the NHBC, you may wish to be aware of the following guidance from the NHBC 'Standards' Document:
"[b]9.2 - S6 Garden areas shall be
adequately prepared for cultivation[/b]
Construction rubbish and debris should
be removed from garden and other areas
around the home.
Sam, cheers - that's a great help. NHBC are the warranty provider. If it's the NHBC, you may wish to be aware of the following guidance from the NHBC 'Standards' Document:
"[b]9.2 - S6 Garden areas shall be
adequately prepared for cultivation[/b]
Construction rubbish and debris should
be removed from garden and other areas
around the home.
Gingerbread Man said:
Get a rotavator in and churn it up. This'll throw up any big stones/ rubbish that needs to be removed.
Then using a rake, level the soil. This'll still throw up unwanted rubbish. Chuck to the side as necessary.
Then trample the soil by doing a shuffle with your feet along the whole plot. This'll pack it down and shown up any humps and bumps.
Level off again with the rake.
I'd go with this for very good advice, but...Then using a rake, level the soil. This'll still throw up unwanted rubbish. Chuck to the side as necessary.
Then trample the soil by doing a shuffle with your feet along the whole plot. This'll pack it down and shown up any humps and bumps.
Level off again with the rake.
JustinP1 said:
My advice would be to improve the soil before you start. There are a range of chemical treatments which can help with this, and adding natural things like soil improver will help. Time is also a healer in this respect as leaving it open to the elements helps the process.
Of course this work is also decreased if the overall plan of how much grass is needed is reduced. The other thing worth considering is to not use turf, but seed. Turf is seen as the easy option nowadays but IMHO the problems getting the soil in the turf to mesh with the soil below is underestimated and you have to drench the thing every other day just to keep it alive.
If you have a flat base you can use a utility grade seed. The grasses that will flourish in your soil type are in there and flourish rather than to make a pot luck guess with a turf.
Do this. Google for topsoil and lawn improver (e.g. Rolawn), and buy the latter. Then go with seed and a near-daily use of hose sprinkler. Reasons being:Of course this work is also decreased if the overall plan of how much grass is needed is reduced. The other thing worth considering is to not use turf, but seed. Turf is seen as the easy option nowadays but IMHO the problems getting the soil in the turf to mesh with the soil below is underestimated and you have to drench the thing every other day just to keep it alive.
If you have a flat base you can use a utility grade seed. The grasses that will flourish in your soil type are in there and flourish rather than to make a pot luck guess with a turf.
- Mixing in the soil improver (try using the rotovator for first mix) and sowing seed will take less time than laying turfs. As you say, you've got better things to be doing.
- Ideal time to sow. One major weekend to defod the existing mud, and ideally mix in the improver, and you're on your way. You'll have a proper lawn runnign by the Summer.
- As Justin says, the chances of the seed taking well are probably better. With the soil improver, you know the quality of what's under the grass.
- Still cheaper than turf.
- A perfect lawn from seed is a great way to "christen" your new house as your first big project.
www.turfonline.co.uk for those of you looking to buy turf. I ordered from them last Weds and my turf arrived 10:30am Saturday (paid a bit extra for weekend delivery). 60sqm of turf cost £152 and was about 16sqm too much!
I'd prepared the ground in advance because - as a new build - it was pretty compacted and debris-strewn. I did it the hard way, using a fork, spade and rake, removing any large stones and other rubbish (although there wasn't too much), dug in a bit of sand to break up some of the clay and did my best to level it.
Actually laying the turf took about half a day and was a cinch. We'll see how it beds in etc, but I'm not after a bowling green - the dog will ensure it'll never be that!
I had tried sowing grass seed but it aws taking an absolute age to come through and I really couldn't be bothered waiting any more.
I'd prepared the ground in advance because - as a new build - it was pretty compacted and debris-strewn. I did it the hard way, using a fork, spade and rake, removing any large stones and other rubbish (although there wasn't too much), dug in a bit of sand to break up some of the clay and did my best to level it.
Actually laying the turf took about half a day and was a cinch. We'll see how it beds in etc, but I'm not after a bowling green - the dog will ensure it'll never be that!
I had tried sowing grass seed but it aws taking an absolute age to come through and I really couldn't be bothered waiting any more.
Bill Carr said:
www.turfonline.co.uk for those of you looking to buy turf. I ordered from them last Weds and my turf arrived 10:30am Saturday (paid a bit extra for weekend delivery). 60sqm of turf cost £152 and was about 16sqm too much!
I'd prepared the ground in advance because - as a new build - it was pretty compacted and debris-strewn. I did it the hard way, using a fork, spade and rake, removing any large stones and other rubbish (although there wasn't too much), dug in a bit of sand to break up some of the clay and did my best to level it.
Actually laying the turf took about half a day and was a cinch. We'll see how it beds in etc, but I'm not after a bowling green - the dog will ensure it'll never be that!
I had tried sowing grass seed but it aws taking an absolute age to come through and I really couldn't be bothered waiting any more.
Dave_ST220. If it was me. I'd do this. ^^^ I'd prepared the ground in advance because - as a new build - it was pretty compacted and debris-strewn. I did it the hard way, using a fork, spade and rake, removing any large stones and other rubbish (although there wasn't too much), dug in a bit of sand to break up some of the clay and did my best to level it.
Actually laying the turf took about half a day and was a cinch. We'll see how it beds in etc, but I'm not after a bowling green - the dog will ensure it'll never be that!
I had tried sowing grass seed but it aws taking an absolute age to come through and I really couldn't be bothered waiting any more.
(Or gravel and pots and a trellis thing with a climber on it to offer some shade and read a book....gravel never dies)
Have had 3 new builds on past 20 years and learned the hard way. In my current house we ripped out the original garden after 5 years and started again. Would have saved a lot of money had I done this at the beginning. The cost of the new garden was £11k including patio's, new lawn, features and plants.If I was to buy a fourth new build this is what I would do.
1. Not let the builder turf the garden and negotiate money off instead.
2. Employ are garden designer. It's a small investment. I paid £330 and the ideas were great.
3. I used the designer's recommended landscaper after obtaining 3 other quotes. He used proper kit ie rotovators and diggers etc. He took out the excess soil and rubbish that lay 6-12 inches below and replaced it with compost and some decent top soil.
4. The designer ordered the plants,about £1200 worth, I took the list around the major local garden centres to check her prices and could not get within 10%.
We are really happy with the result. The temptation is to get the patio laid and lawn turfed asap when you move in so there is no muck around and everything looks neat. If you are planning on staying in the house and want to enjoy your garden, it's a false economy.
1. Not let the builder turf the garden and negotiate money off instead.
2. Employ are garden designer. It's a small investment. I paid £330 and the ideas were great.
3. I used the designer's recommended landscaper after obtaining 3 other quotes. He used proper kit ie rotovators and diggers etc. He took out the excess soil and rubbish that lay 6-12 inches below and replaced it with compost and some decent top soil.
4. The designer ordered the plants,about £1200 worth, I took the list around the major local garden centres to check her prices and could not get within 10%.
We are really happy with the result. The temptation is to get the patio laid and lawn turfed asap when you move in so there is no muck around and everything looks neat. If you are planning on staying in the house and want to enjoy your garden, it's a false economy.
AMCDan said:
thanks for the help..... a quick question about fencing if i may?
I am not too keen on all these feather edge closed board fencing things that you can get at B&Q. My old man in our last house put up a fence that was basically 6 foot fence posts (well 6' above soil, concreted in place) and then it had wide boards put horizontally between each post - the boards alternated sides so i would have one board, a board sized space, another board - then on the other side where my board "space" was, a board went in to cover it up. It was alternating board to board. The idea being that there was no "ugly" side. What style of fencing would you call this?
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If that makes sense? What size of board would he have used? The only thing i can find close is gravel board at ~£5 per board. Would work out expensive i think.
I have just used these 1800x1800mm 'Milano' panels with 100x100mm posts in postcrete, just found them here at half the price I paid at Champion timber. I am not too keen on all these feather edge closed board fencing things that you can get at B&Q. My old man in our last house put up a fence that was basically 6 foot fence posts (well 6' above soil, concreted in place) and then it had wide boards put horizontally between each post - the boards alternated sides so i would have one board, a board sized space, another board - then on the other side where my board "space" was, a board went in to cover it up. It was alternating board to board. The idea being that there was no "ugly" side. What style of fencing would you call this?
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If that makes sense? What size of board would he have used? The only thing i can find close is gravel board at ~£5 per board. Would work out expensive i think.
Edited by AMCDan on Sunday 19th April 18:09
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