Core drilling with a standard SDS drill
Discussion
I thought core drilling required a special core drill to provide enough power and also because it's got an integrated clutch. However, I had a sparky over today to fit a bathroom extractor and he used a standard SDS drill to drill a 5" hole and has been doing so for many years without problem.
Is it true that there aren't drawbacks to using a standard drill?
Is it true that there aren't drawbacks to using a standard drill?
Sarah_W said:
I thought core drilling required a special core drill to provide enough power and also because it's got an integrated clutch. However, I had a sparky over today to fit a bathroom extractor and he used a standard SDS drill to drill a 5" hole and has been doing so for many years without problem.
Is it true that there aren't drawbacks to using a standard drill?
SDS is not really a 'standard' drill. Mine is a far bigger device than my other 'leccy drills. Is it true that there aren't drawbacks to using a standard drill?
I guess if you are man enough to hang onto it and stop it twisting your arm off, it'll do the job. Best to keep your finger on the trigger rather than use the 'lock on' button though.
Not too sure what SDS stands for actually.
TheEnd said:
Depends on what you are drilling with, and what through.
A lot of decent drills now have clutch/torque limiters to stop breaking wrists.
What he said^^^ watched a bloke cut a 5.5" hole for a boiler flu using a SDS drill, broke one wrist nastly and sprained the other..... No clutch you see...A lot of decent drills now have clutch/torque limiters to stop breaking wrists.
Its just not advised..
You've seen the bit in 'A Grand Day Out' where Gromit...
Cheaper SDS drills don't have clutches but spend a bit more (around £100 now that the price of tools has gone up) and they do - check the specs. If you're going through a cavity wall you'll need an extension piece as well. If you can, drill from both sides (using a long thin masonry drill as a pilot) because in my experience, when they break through it gets real messy.
Cheaper SDS drills don't have clutches but spend a bit more (around £100 now that the price of tools has gone up) and they do - check the specs. If you're going through a cavity wall you'll need an extension piece as well. If you can, drill from both sides (using a long thin masonry drill as a pilot) because in my experience, when they break through it gets real messy.
King Herald said:
Not too sure what SDS stands for actually.
me neither so I googled it 
"SDS stands for Schnell Drilling System or Slotted Drive System. All modern rotary hammers use one of three types of bit: SDS, SDS-MAX, and SPLINE SHANK.
SDS is also and confusingly called "SDS-Plus" and often written "SDS+". They are all the same SDS shanks are slotted and have curved recesses all of which lock nicely into the chucks of "SDS rotary hammers." They are the smallest of the three shank types, so the biggest diameter SDS bits you'll find are about 1-1/8 inch.
SDS-MAX is the "super colossal" version of SDS-Plus. SDS rotary hammers drill and pound bigger holes (up to 2") with longer bits (up to 28" or so). SDS-MAX hammers have lots of power, so not only is the hammer drilling faster, the chipping function is extremely useful. Most of these large rotary hammers, however, cannot be used as plain drills like their smaller (SDS+) cousins. They have just two "modes": "hammering with rotation" or "hammer only," and the same is true of almost all Spline Shank hammers.
Spline Shank is a bit more confusing because the drill bits for this system have a different-looking shank than the chisels. The drill bits have fins (or "splines") at the end of the shank while the chisels and other hammer tools have a hex shank with a deep indent on one side for the lock. But if the bit says "spline," it is, and it'll fit these tools."
HTH
TooLateForAName said:
I've done a 6 inch one with SDS but it certainly strained my wrists a bit doing it. Use high power and low speed. Don't stand in such a way that the drill can hit you if it starts to spin and be ready to drop/release the trigger if it catches.
DONT do this, go and hire. Tell them what your doing and you'll get the right quality equipment. TooLateForAName said:
I've done a 6 inch one with SDS but it certainly strained my wrists a bit doing it. Use high power and low speed. Don't stand in such a way that the drill can hit you if it starts to spin and be ready to drop/release the trigger if it catches.
I was putting a kitchen extractor vent pipe in a house extension a few years ago. The core boring bit grabbed and the drill spun out of my grip, catching me under the chin and knocking me off the stepladdder. Fortunately it was only a 5 tread step and I wasn't seriously hurt, but I'll not be attempting a repeat performance.
Gingerbread Man said:
Our SDS has a clutch plus the ability to turn off the hammer function. Although not our normal drill for the job, I did drill a core hole with it yesterday.
Mine will either hammer, or rotate, or both, and it only cost £50 from Screwfix. I've used it for breaking up concrete, with a chisel attachment fitted, and for drilling numerous holes of all sizes.So much depends on the bloke and the drilling machine, also on common dodges. For example before using a mains drill open up the plug and bin that 13 amp fuse (don't actually bin it, just save it for the welder!) Now fit a THREE AMP fuse. The result now is that if the drill jams there will be no stripped gears or broken wrists as the fuse will blow instead SIMPLE! (What you most definitely don't want is the entire power of the National Grid trying to turn that drill and really it is only the fuses that stop all that power from coming to your house!)
The connection of the drill bit to the drilling machine requires a little thought. If its SDS, hexagon or spline drive you are stuck with it. If one is driving a round shaft with a classic three-jaw-chuck one can resort to undertightening the chuck so that it can slip if need be.
Air powered drills are another method as the torque is proportional to the air pressure. If the drill bit jams the drill merely stalls.
One tip that must be a hundred years old originates from a factory in Leeds. Allegedly the foreman would get his men to wind the mains cable around the power drills in such a way that a "kicking" power drill would pull out the mains plug!
The very old Wolf low speed drills can kick like a mule even with just a three amp fuse so take care. They will easily drive a six inch dry-diamond core drill through a brick cavity wall so there's no need to spend a fortune on a Hatton Gardens drilling rig.
The connection of the drill bit to the drilling machine requires a little thought. If its SDS, hexagon or spline drive you are stuck with it. If one is driving a round shaft with a classic three-jaw-chuck one can resort to undertightening the chuck so that it can slip if need be.
Air powered drills are another method as the torque is proportional to the air pressure. If the drill bit jams the drill merely stalls.
One tip that must be a hundred years old originates from a factory in Leeds. Allegedly the foreman would get his men to wind the mains cable around the power drills in such a way that a "kicking" power drill would pull out the mains plug!
The very old Wolf low speed drills can kick like a mule even with just a three amp fuse so take care. They will easily drive a six inch dry-diamond core drill through a brick cavity wall so there's no need to spend a fortune on a Hatton Gardens drilling rig.
Don't use core bits without a clutch, you can't take your finger off the trigger quick enough when it grabs it hurts.
I bought one of these for the job and when it failed after almost 2 years of heavy use whilst converting a house, Screwfix gave me a brand new one under guarantee. Best value for money tool I have ever bought.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb631sds-5kg-sds-...
I bought one of these for the job and when it failed after almost 2 years of heavy use whilst converting a house, Screwfix gave me a brand new one under guarantee. Best value for money tool I have ever bought.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb631sds-5kg-sds-...
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