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Discussion
budgie smuggler said:
It's not ideal but no need to panic unless it's causing stress to livestock.
Whether to water change or not depends how good your source water is. If it is 0ppm RO/DI and a good quality salt, then I'd probably do a series of 20% changes every 3 or 4 days then as required to keep it 5-20ppm.
If it's premixed saltwater bought from your LFS then it's a tougher call. A lot of LFS do not maintain their RO/DI filters properly because it's quite expensive. One of the first things that exhausted DI lets through is silicate, so that would potentially explain your diatoms.
PS is that snail definitely alive? they tend to live on the rocks not sand, take it out and give it a sniff, you will soon know if it's a gonner!
It could be the source of your nitrate if dead.
Its only 3 hermit crabs in there, no snails. My wife put some spare shells in for them including the one that looks more for a snail.Whether to water change or not depends how good your source water is. If it is 0ppm RO/DI and a good quality salt, then I'd probably do a series of 20% changes every 3 or 4 days then as required to keep it 5-20ppm.
If it's premixed saltwater bought from your LFS then it's a tougher call. A lot of LFS do not maintain their RO/DI filters properly because it's quite expensive. One of the first things that exhausted DI lets through is silicate, so that would potentially explain your diatoms.
PS is that snail definitely alive? they tend to live on the rocks not sand, take it out and give it a sniff, you will soon know if it's a gonner!
It could be the source of your nitrate if dead.
I'm using the Tropic Marin branded reef salt which seems to regarded as good quality and making my own RO water (4stage filter) that's testing at 0.03ppm. I'll try the water changes and see how it goes.
One of the better upgrades to your RO system is adding a second DI chamber and run 2 in series, fill the bottom 3cm or so with colour changing resin and then basic cheaper stuff on top, when the colour changes in the second chamber discard the first, swap the 2nd into position 1 and refill the empty chamber into position no 2 and repeat, you will get the most out of your resin that way whilst never dumping the worst elements into your tank as they are the first to be given up when di resin is full
Also I have a tap that shortcuts the RO membrane output to drain, as you will get high ppm readings initially after starting the RO, dumping these saves your Di having to absorb them. My RO membrane output stabilisation takes about 30 seconds or so but starts off at about 200+ppm.
The second DI chamber probably pays for itself in short order as they are not massively expensive.
There is a good chance if you've filled a new tank your Di may be almost spent depending on your water, filling a 200l vacation ATO container really burns through mine so unless you have the right colour changing resin for your water you could be adding stuff without realising, even a conductivity meter reading 0 I saw noticeable deteriorating conditions in the tank before 1ppm was detected. Much better with the 2nd chamber as it never gets to that point.
ETA, actually one of the best RO upgrades was integrating the RO into home assistant with a float switch to cut the pump and esp32 to pick that up with WLED strip lights indicating the phase of the RO using WLED drip pattern. Red for 30s Membrane Flush, 5 mins of yellow for Di flush and then blue for running and green for done,
Also I have a tap that shortcuts the RO membrane output to drain, as you will get high ppm readings initially after starting the RO, dumping these saves your Di having to absorb them. My RO membrane output stabilisation takes about 30 seconds or so but starts off at about 200+ppm.
The second DI chamber probably pays for itself in short order as they are not massively expensive.
There is a good chance if you've filled a new tank your Di may be almost spent depending on your water, filling a 200l vacation ATO container really burns through mine so unless you have the right colour changing resin for your water you could be adding stuff without realising, even a conductivity meter reading 0 I saw noticeable deteriorating conditions in the tank before 1ppm was detected. Much better with the 2nd chamber as it never gets to that point.
ETA, actually one of the best RO upgrades was integrating the RO into home assistant with a float switch to cut the pump and esp32 to pick that up with WLED strip lights indicating the phase of the RO using WLED drip pattern. Red for 30s Membrane Flush, 5 mins of yellow for Di flush and then blue for running and green for done,
Edited by 8.4L 154 on Monday 22 September 21:13
Edited by 8.4L 154 on Monday 22 September 21:25
8.4L 154 said:
One of the better upgrades to your RO system is adding a second DI chamber and run 2 in series, fill the bottom 3cm or so with colour changing resin and then basic cheaper stuff on top, when the colour changes in the second chamber discard the first, swap the 2nd into position 1 and refill the empty chamber into position no 2 and repeat, you will get the most out of your resin that way whilst never dumping the worst elements into your tank as they are the first to be given up when di resin is full
Also I have a tap that shortcuts the RO membrane output to drain, as you will get high ppm readings initially after starting the RO, dumping these saves your Di having to absorb them. My RO membrane output stabilisation takes about 30 seconds or so but starts off at about 200+ppm.
The second DI chamber probably pays for itself in short order as they are not massively expensive.
There is a good chance if you've filled a new tank your Di may be almost spent depending on your water, filling a 200l vacation ATO container really burns through mine so unless you have the right colour changing resin for your water you could be adding stuff without realising, even a conductivity meter reading 0 I saw noticeable deteriorating conditions in the tank before 1ppm was detected. Much better with the 2nd chamber as it never gets to that point.
Great post Also I have a tap that shortcuts the RO membrane output to drain, as you will get high ppm readings initially after starting the RO, dumping these saves your Di having to absorb them. My RO membrane output stabilisation takes about 30 seconds or so but starts off at about 200+ppm.
The second DI chamber probably pays for itself in short order as they are not massively expensive.
There is a good chance if you've filled a new tank your Di may be almost spent depending on your water, filling a 200l vacation ATO container really burns through mine so unless you have the right colour changing resin for your water you could be adding stuff without realising, even a conductivity meter reading 0 I saw noticeable deteriorating conditions in the tank before 1ppm was detected. Much better with the 2nd chamber as it never gets to that point.
agreeHelterSkelter said:
Its only 3 hermit crabs in there, no snails. My wife put some spare shells in for them including the one that looks more for a snail.
I'm using the Tropic Marin branded reef salt which seems to regarded as good quality and making my own RO water (4stage filter) that's testing at 0.03ppm. I'll try the water changes and see how it goes.
Yes Tropic Marin is generally excellent. I'm using the Tropic Marin branded reef salt which seems to regarded as good quality and making my own RO water (4stage filter) that's testing at 0.03ppm. I'll try the water changes and see how it goes.
You should consider getting one of those banded trochus snails, they voraciously eat diatoms. Just ensure the hermits aren't hungry or they will eat it.
Collected a few boxes this weekend.
The wife got drunk and told me to get the 4 foot version so i changed the order, only to find it would foul a painting that I love so back to 3 foot it is!
Getting new carpets next week so need to wait to set it up (and hope it doesn’t leak!)
Neptunian cube m90
I'm looking for some advice gents,
Some amazing looking tanks here, and I'm a bit jealous.
I have had a Fluval Edge 46L for around 15 years, nothing special in it, usually some neon tetras, corydoras or mollys. It's varied over the years.
I would like a new tank as I am starting to get the fear about this one failing as it has a couple of chips in it now and I can see the silicon starting to separate on a couple of sections.
I have my eye on a AquaManta Nano 60, however I'd like to up my game a bit with regards to making the tank look nicer.
Up to now, I have only had one go (unsuccessfully) with a planted tank, it didn't work out too well.
I'd like to try again, but I don't really have a clue what I'm doing, for instance,
How do you clean it? Just hoover around the plants and never dig into the substrate to clean?
Do the plants keep growing and do they have to be trimmed back?
What substrate is best?
Finally, would it need more attention, as I work away from home a lot and my wife only carries out basic maintenance whilst I am away.
TIA.
Some amazing looking tanks here, and I'm a bit jealous.
I have had a Fluval Edge 46L for around 15 years, nothing special in it, usually some neon tetras, corydoras or mollys. It's varied over the years.
I would like a new tank as I am starting to get the fear about this one failing as it has a couple of chips in it now and I can see the silicon starting to separate on a couple of sections.
I have my eye on a AquaManta Nano 60, however I'd like to up my game a bit with regards to making the tank look nicer.
Up to now, I have only had one go (unsuccessfully) with a planted tank, it didn't work out too well.
I'd like to try again, but I don't really have a clue what I'm doing, for instance,
How do you clean it? Just hoover around the plants and never dig into the substrate to clean?
Do the plants keep growing and do they have to be trimmed back?
What substrate is best?
Finally, would it need more attention, as I work away from home a lot and my wife only carries out basic maintenance whilst I am away.
TIA.
Lots of variation in the answers to those questions! Mainly around what plants you end up using.
Now, one thing is that a planted tank (especially with houseplants growing out of the water) is that they'll actually help with the water quality, by absorbing at least some of the nitrates and phosphates that you'd usually only remove through water changes.
Check out MD Aquatics on YouTube. Good guy, who's got a fairly simple formula he's used in many wildly different tanks.
Now, one thing is that a planted tank (especially with houseplants growing out of the water) is that they'll actually help with the water quality, by absorbing at least some of the nitrates and phosphates that you'd usually only remove through water changes.
Check out MD Aquatics on YouTube. Good guy, who's got a fairly simple formula he's used in many wildly different tanks.
Ritchie335is said:
I'm looking for some advice gents,
Some amazing looking tanks here, and I'm a bit jealous.
I have had a Fluval Edge 46L for around 15 years, nothing special in it, usually some neon tetras, corydoras or mollys. It's varied over the years.
I would like a new tank as I am starting to get the fear about this one failing as it has a couple of chips in it now and I can see the silicon starting to separate on a couple of sections.
I have my eye on a AquaManta Nano 60, however I'd like to up my game a bit with regards to making the tank look nicer.
Up to now, I have only had one go (unsuccessfully) with a planted tank, it didn't work out too well.
I'd like to try again, but I don't really have a clue what I'm doing, for instance,
How do you clean it? Just hoover around the plants and never dig into the substrate to clean?
Do the plants keep growing and do they have to be trimmed back?
What substrate is best?
Finally, would it need more attention, as I work away from home a lot and my wife only carries out basic maintenance whilst I am away.
TIA.
I try to do as little work as possible within my tank. Some amazing looking tanks here, and I'm a bit jealous.
I have had a Fluval Edge 46L for around 15 years, nothing special in it, usually some neon tetras, corydoras or mollys. It's varied over the years.
I would like a new tank as I am starting to get the fear about this one failing as it has a couple of chips in it now and I can see the silicon starting to separate on a couple of sections.
I have my eye on a AquaManta Nano 60, however I'd like to up my game a bit with regards to making the tank look nicer.
Up to now, I have only had one go (unsuccessfully) with a planted tank, it didn't work out too well.
I'd like to try again, but I don't really have a clue what I'm doing, for instance,
How do you clean it? Just hoover around the plants and never dig into the substrate to clean?
Do the plants keep growing and do they have to be trimmed back?
What substrate is best?
Finally, would it need more attention, as I work away from home a lot and my wife only carries out basic maintenance whilst I am away.
TIA.
My water changes are done via the external filter, my algae scraper is a bunch of apple and zebra snails plus a few alfae eating fish. My sand is turned over by khuli loaches and corydoras.
Im not saying i don’t have to help sometimes but most of the time my tank cleans itself.
Turn7 said:
I m have the urge to get a tank again.
Only a small one, thinking Superfish scaper 90 kind of size.
Was going to go with Shell dwellers , but Apistogrammas have caught my eye . They look perfect as a central pair with some dithers and Corys.
Anyone here keep them ?
Used to twenty odd years ago when I lived in England, Agasizii double red from memory, beautiful, beautiful fish.Only a small one, thinking Superfish scaper 90 kind of size.
Was going to go with Shell dwellers , but Apistogrammas have caught my eye . They look perfect as a central pair with some dithers and Corys.
Anyone here keep them ?
Getting the pair will be the main part, if I were to get them here they'd be probably too small to sex but I'd take them over shellies any day and I wouldn't want a substrate littered with shells on top of that.
Will display predictable Cichlid behaviour, especially if they breed, but will be fine with Corys and I kept mine with Rummy Nose with no issue.
Update on my tanks
I changed the light on my larger tank, to a Lominie Asta 20, with WiFi controller and I'm impressed, full control over the spectrum, timing etc from the app. Not quite figured out how to program a sunrise/sunset effect but the shimmer on the hardscape and substrate is lovely when they are on.
Snails under control, algae not as much, trying to find some Nerite snails to combine with the Otos I recently added.
Betta tank has a snail issue AGAIN, no idea why, as well as BBA outbreak, ho hum.
Ritchie335is said:
I'm looking for some advice gents,
Some amazing looking tanks here, and I'm a bit jealous.
I have had a Fluval Edge 46L for around 15 years, nothing special in it, usually some neon tetras, corydoras or mollys. It's varied over the years.
I would like a new tank as I am starting to get the fear about this one failing as it has a couple of chips in it now and I can see the silicon starting to separate on a couple of sections.
I have my eye on a AquaManta Nano 60, however I'd like to up my game a bit with regards to making the tank look nicer.
Up to now, I have only had one go (unsuccessfully) with a planted tank, it didn't work out too well.
I'd like to try again, but I don't really have a clue what I'm doing, for instance,
How do you clean it? Just hoover around the plants and never dig into the substrate to clean?
Do the plants keep growing and do they have to be trimmed back?
What substrate is best?
Finally, would it need more attention, as I work away from home a lot and my wife only carries out basic maintenance whilst I am away.
TIA.
Good advice already given, MD YouTube channel is brilliant if you want to plant into the substrate, I prefer to use epiphytes which you attach to wood and/or rocks.Some amazing looking tanks here, and I'm a bit jealous.
I have had a Fluval Edge 46L for around 15 years, nothing special in it, usually some neon tetras, corydoras or mollys. It's varied over the years.
I would like a new tank as I am starting to get the fear about this one failing as it has a couple of chips in it now and I can see the silicon starting to separate on a couple of sections.
I have my eye on a AquaManta Nano 60, however I'd like to up my game a bit with regards to making the tank look nicer.
Up to now, I have only had one go (unsuccessfully) with a planted tank, it didn't work out too well.
I'd like to try again, but I don't really have a clue what I'm doing, for instance,
How do you clean it? Just hoover around the plants and never dig into the substrate to clean?
Do the plants keep growing and do they have to be trimmed back?
What substrate is best?
Finally, would it need more attention, as I work away from home a lot and my wife only carries out basic maintenance whilst I am away.
TIA.
I always double the filtration, the tank you mentioned has built in internal, I'd go down the route of a glass box the same size and an external canister that's rated for at least 180 litre tank size.
You also get freedom to choose the lights as well.
It's a good size to upgrade to though and is bigger than the bigger one in my post above.
Substrate I use ADA La Plate and Colorado.
dxbtiger said:
Ritchie335is said:
I'm looking for some advice gents,
Some amazing looking tanks here, and I'm a bit jealous.
I have had a Fluval Edge 46L for around 15 years, nothing special in it, usually some neon tetras, corydoras or mollys. It's varied over the years.
I would like a new tank as I am starting to get the fear about this one failing as it has a couple of chips in it now and I can see the silicon starting to separate on a couple of sections.
I have my eye on a AquaManta Nano 60, however I'd like to up my game a bit with regards to making the tank look nicer.
Up to now, I have only had one go (unsuccessfully) with a planted tank, it didn't work out too well.
I'd like to try again, but I don't really have a clue what I'm doing, for instance,
How do you clean it? Just hoover around the plants and never dig into the substrate to clean?
Do the plants keep growing and do they have to be trimmed back?
What substrate is best?
Finally, would it need more attention, as I work away from home a lot and my wife only carries out basic maintenance whilst I am away.
TIA.
Good advice already given, MD YouTube channel is brilliant if you want to plant into the substrate, I prefer to use epiphytes which you attach to wood and/or rocks.Some amazing looking tanks here, and I'm a bit jealous.
I have had a Fluval Edge 46L for around 15 years, nothing special in it, usually some neon tetras, corydoras or mollys. It's varied over the years.
I would like a new tank as I am starting to get the fear about this one failing as it has a couple of chips in it now and I can see the silicon starting to separate on a couple of sections.
I have my eye on a AquaManta Nano 60, however I'd like to up my game a bit with regards to making the tank look nicer.
Up to now, I have only had one go (unsuccessfully) with a planted tank, it didn't work out too well.
I'd like to try again, but I don't really have a clue what I'm doing, for instance,
How do you clean it? Just hoover around the plants and never dig into the substrate to clean?
Do the plants keep growing and do they have to be trimmed back?
What substrate is best?
Finally, would it need more attention, as I work away from home a lot and my wife only carries out basic maintenance whilst I am away.
TIA.
I always double the filtration, the tank you mentioned has built in internal, I'd go down the route of a glass box the same size and an external canister that's rated for at least 180 litre tank size.
You also get freedom to choose the lights as well.
It's a good size to upgrade to though and is bigger than the bigger one in my post above.
Substrate I use ADA La Plate and Colorado.
Ritchie335is said:
Thanks for the advice, I have been watching MD on YouTube, and he has really inspired me to get cracking. Unfortunately, I don't have the room for an additional tank for filtration.
I recommend George Farmer, heavy presence on YouTube but I also really like his book. It gives a step by step guide on how to aquascape specific tanks which I followed for my Fluval Flex 57. I’ve had amazing results in that the tank is healthy, livestock flourishing and plants growing.Ritchie335is said:
Thanks for the advice, I have been watching MD on YouTube, and he has really inspired me to get cracking. Unfortunately, I don't have the room for an additional tank for filtration.
I think he meant buying a different aquarium tank that is just a tank alone without a built-in internal filter - these take up a significant area of the available water volume. You would then buy a separate, appropriately-sized external filter for the tank For a 60-litre tank, I really recommend the Seachem Tidal 35 - it's a hang-on external filter that is self-priming, has adjustable flow rate, can accept different types of filter media and is a breeze to maintain. I absolutely love the Tidal 35 I have running on my 60-litre tank. It's so much less faff to clean and maintain then any external canister filter I've used (and I've used several over the years).Edited by Oberheim on Wednesday 22 October 14:59
Oberheim said:
Ritchie335is said:
Thanks for the advice, I have been watching MD on YouTube, and he has really inspired me to get cracking. Unfortunately, I don't have the room for an additional tank for filtration.
I think he meant buying a different aquarium tank that is just a tank alone without a built-in internal filter - these take up a significant area of the available water volume. You would then buy a separate, appropriately-sized external filter for the tank For a 60-litre tank, I really recommend the Seachem Tidal 35 - it's a hang-on external filter that is self-priming, has adjustable flow rate, can accept different types of filter media and is a breeze to maintain. I absolutely love the Tidal 35 I have running on my 60-litre tank. It's so much less faff to clean and maintain then any external canister filter I've used (and I've used several over the years).Edited by Oberheim on Wednesday 22 October 14:59
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