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Turn7 said:
Also -any reason the water level looks low ? Can you fill it to hide the water line ?
Does your filter utilise a spraybar to return to the tank?
We've probably put in another half inch of water since the picture was taken. Water level is pretty close to the rim of the aquarium however we are allowing some space for the spray bar to create some oxygenation.Does your filter utilise a spraybar to return to the tank?
anxious_ant said:
Turn7 said:
Also -any reason the water level looks low ? Can you fill it to hide the water line ?
Does your filter utilise a spraybar to return to the tank?
We've probably put in another half inch of water since the picture was taken. Water level is pretty close to the rim of the aquarium however we are allowing some space for the spray bar to create some oxygenation.Does your filter utilise a spraybar to return to the tank?
anxious_ant said:
Turn7 said:
whats the flexi pipe for ?
LED Lights 
Another slight issue is that the tank is slightly cloudy/milky.
I've got some Fluval Quick Clear Water Clarifier tomorrow so hopefully that helps clear it up quicker.
Should clear in a few days - I wouldn't add anything, just let it run it's course.
Sway said:
anxious_ant said:
Turn7 said:
whats the flexi pipe for ?
LED Lights Another slight issue is that the tank is slightly cloudy/milky.
I've got some Fluval Quick Clear Water Clarifier tomorrow so hopefully that helps clear it up quicker.
Should clear in a few days - I wouldn't add anything, just let it run it's course.
Is it harmful to add a water "clarifier"?
Posted this on a fish forum and was advised I need to drain the whole tank again before adding fish if I use the clarifier.
I may well go with your advice and just wait until the cloudiness clears itself
Also, does anyone here have experience using "Fluval Water Conditioner"? From the blurb it's good for removing Chlorine and Chloramine and also reducing stress in fish. However someone mentioned that the natural Valerian root herb extract it contains might not be good for the fish?
Edited by anxious_ant on Sunday 28th June 20:30
I used an entire bottle of fluval water conditioner for water changes on my tank with no issues.
I've now got a bottle of seachem prime, which is almost scary at it's potency (1ml is technically a double dose for my 20l/50% water changes!).
You'd be surprised at how quick bacteria will bloom in heated tap water. After all, if chlorine/chloramine was so good at killing bacteria, you wouldn't use flash on your kitchen worktops! Could also just be some microbubbles or dust from your substrate.
I've now got a bottle of seachem prime, which is almost scary at it's potency (1ml is technically a double dose for my 20l/50% water changes!).
You'd be surprised at how quick bacteria will bloom in heated tap water. After all, if chlorine/chloramine was so good at killing bacteria, you wouldn't use flash on your kitchen worktops! Could also just be some microbubbles or dust from your substrate.
Sway said:
I used an entire bottle of fluval water conditioner for water changes on my tank with no issues.
I've now got a bottle of seachem prime, which is almost scary at it's potency (1ml is technically a double dose for my 20l/50% water changes!).
You'd be surprised at how quick bacteria will bloom in heated tap water. After all, if chlorine/chloramine was so good at killing bacteria, you wouldn't use flash on your kitchen worktops! Could also just be some microbubbles or dust from your substrate.
Thanks again for the helpful feedback Sway I've now got a bottle of seachem prime, which is almost scary at it's potency (1ml is technically a double dose for my 20l/50% water changes!).
You'd be surprised at how quick bacteria will bloom in heated tap water. After all, if chlorine/chloramine was so good at killing bacteria, you wouldn't use flash on your kitchen worktops! Could also just be some microbubbles or dust from your substrate.
I think I'll cancel my plan with the water purifier.
We will persevere and hopefully the cloudiness clears in a few days.
Aquarium is not heated yet as the heater that came with it exploded after less than 5 minutes. Aquarium seem to be hovering around 21-22 degress C though, even without heater.
Looking forward to install the Fluval heater tomorrow as some creative routing required with cables.
Sway said:
Make sure you do treat for chlorine/chloramine via whatever tap safe.
Yes, I've got another bottle of Fluval Water Conditioner waiting before the fish goes in I was thinking of ditching that for the API version as it's favoured by another forum but from your experience I'd go with this.
Did you carry out water changes after using the conditioner? I was just going to add the conditioner as per recommendation (about 35ml for my 145L tank) and add the fish once the water is safe.
Seachem prime is great.
To be fair, I don't think you can go far wrong, although fluval stuff is fairly pricey based on it's dilution.
Once the water has been treated, it's fine - just need to wait for the cycle to go through the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate phases.
Then it's good for fish.
When you do regular water changes, then make sure you add some conditioner to the fresh water before it goes in the tank.
To be fair, I don't think you can go far wrong, although fluval stuff is fairly pricey based on it's dilution.
Once the water has been treated, it's fine - just need to wait for the cycle to go through the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate phases.
Then it's good for fish.
When you do regular water changes, then make sure you add some conditioner to the fresh water before it goes in the tank.
Sway said:
Seachem prime is great.
To be fair, I don't think you can go far wrong, although fluval stuff is fairly pricey based on it's dilution.
Once the water has been treated, it's fine - just need to wait for the cycle to go through the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate phases.
Then it's good for fish.
When you do regular water changes, then make sure you add some conditioner to the fresh water before it goes in the tank.
Ta To be fair, I don't think you can go far wrong, although fluval stuff is fairly pricey based on it's dilution.
Once the water has been treated, it's fine - just need to wait for the cycle to go through the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate phases.
Then it's good for fish.
When you do regular water changes, then make sure you add some conditioner to the fresh water before it goes in the tank.
Tested the water today and below are the readouts, not too bad I suppose considering it's about 2 days old and no fish stock:
Ammonia : 0.15ppm
Nitrite : 0ppm
Nitrate : 0ppm
pH : 7.8
gH : 160ppm/8dH
kH : 100ppm/5dH
It's good the ammonia has started. It'll likely rise further, then you'll also start to see nitrite coming up (first stage of bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite), then the second lot of bacteria will kick in and start eating the nitrite and making nitrate.
Once ammonia and nitrite fall to zero, you're good to go. If nitrate is high (for me, in a tropical community using tap water that's about 40ppm - my tap water can be 30ppm out the tap!) than a water change to drop it down is worth doing before adding fish.
Nitrate you'll remove in a couple of ways - water changes being the big one. Plants also hoover up nitrate for growth, I've a few fast growing stem plants which I cut back about half every two weeks. All the plant I throw away is nutrients I don't want my fish swimming in.
Once ammonia and nitrite fall to zero, you're good to go. If nitrate is high (for me, in a tropical community using tap water that's about 40ppm - my tap water can be 30ppm out the tap!) than a water change to drop it down is worth doing before adding fish.
Nitrate you'll remove in a couple of ways - water changes being the big one. Plants also hoover up nitrate for growth, I've a few fast growing stem plants which I cut back about half every two weeks. All the plant I throw away is nutrients I don't want my fish swimming in.
Sway said:
It's good the ammonia has started. It'll likely rise further, then you'll also start to see nitrite coming up (first stage of bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite), then the second lot of bacteria will kick in and start eating the nitrite and making nitrate.
Once ammonia and nitrite fall to zero, you're good to go. If nitrate is high (for me, in a tropical community using tap water that's about 40ppm - my tap water can be 30ppm out the tap!) than a water change to drop it down is worth doing before adding fish.
Nitrate you'll remove in a couple of ways - water changes being the big one. Plants also hoover up nitrate for growth, I've a few fast growing stem plants which I cut back about half every two weeks. All the plant I throw away is nutrients I don't want my fish swimming in.
Thanks again, I'll keep that in mind.Once ammonia and nitrite fall to zero, you're good to go. If nitrate is high (for me, in a tropical community using tap water that's about 40ppm - my tap water can be 30ppm out the tap!) than a water change to drop it down is worth doing before adding fish.
Nitrate you'll remove in a couple of ways - water changes being the big one. Plants also hoover up nitrate for growth, I've a few fast growing stem plants which I cut back about half every two weeks. All the plant I throw away is nutrients I don't want my fish swimming in.
We are also pleasanty surprised that the gH and kH wasn't as high as we've expected it to be.
We have quite a lot of live plants so hopefully that will keep the nitrates in check.
anxious_ant said:
Also, does anyone here have experience using "Fluval Water Conditioner"? From the blurb it's good for removing Chlorine and Chloramine and also reducing stress in fish. However someone mentioned that the natural Valerian root herb extract it contains might not be good for the fish?
The active ingredient of dechlorinators costs about a fiver a kilogram from Amazon. Substantially less in bulk. The other ingredients - herbal extracts, aloe vera, metal chelating substances, whatever - are there to justify a higher sticker price on a bottle containing pennies worth of sodium thiosulphate.
otolith said:
anxious_ant said:
Also, does anyone here have experience using "Fluval Water Conditioner"? From the blurb it's good for removing Chlorine and Chloramine and also reducing stress in fish. However someone mentioned that the natural Valerian root herb extract it contains might not be good for the fish?
The active ingredient of dechlorinators costs about a fiver a kilogram from Amazon. Substantially less in bulk. The other ingredients - herbal extracts, aloe vera, metal chelating substances, whatever - are there to justify a higher sticker price on a bottle containing pennies worth of sodium thiosulphate.Gassing Station | All Creatures Great & Small | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff